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Old 02-06-2014, 09:18 PM   #1
FarmLife
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Default Metal Building Company or Contractor

This is the first time I have posted to the forum but we are long time readers (lurkers?) who have learned tons from all of you.
If any of you have had positive or negative experiences with constructing one of these prefab type large metal buildings that you are willing to share, we'd really appreciate it.
The building we want to construct in Meredith or Center Harbor will be a heated workshop, as small as 1500 to as large as 3000 square feet. Some of the details would include a slab foundation, windows, overhead doors, interior loft or mezzanine.
Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:32 PM   #2
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Default Metal Building Company or Contractor

Construx, Inc.
Plymouth, NH
http://www.construxinc.com/
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:22 AM   #3
Ironfish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmLife View Post
If any of you have had positive or negative experiences with constructing one of these prefab type large metal buildings that you are willing to share, we'd really appreciate it.
The building we want to construct in Meredith or Center Harbor will be a heated workshop, as small as 1500 to as large as 3000 square feet. Some of the details would include a slab foundation, windows, overhead doors, interior loft or mezzanine
I am a commercial general contractor, and I think I can offer some advice.

1. If you decide to build a "pre-engineered" metal building, buy it from a local contractor, with lots of metal building experience, and make sure you have it erected by the company that you bought it from. Avoid, at all costs, any of the "internet deals" for steel buildings. Most are a sham .... some are a scam.
2. Construx is an excellent company for this sort of work, as is Reiss Construction. Both are long time contractors located in the Plymouth/Campton area. However, you may find that your project may be smaller than they generally build.
3. Don't buy a "screw down" metal roof. The screw heads are exposed to the weather, and will eventually cause a roof leak. Buy what is referred to as a standing seam roof, with concealed fasteners.
4. Try to place any doors on the end wall, if possible. Doing so eliminates ice slides in front of your doors.
5. Generally, the standard construction specs for these buildings do not provide particularly great doors or windows. You could request framed openings, and do some research to find alternative doors that might suit you better.
6. Generally, you don't get great insulation factors with the fiberglass blankets that are provided, as the insulation gets compressed at all the framing members.
7. If you are worried about the integrity of the wall panels over time, buy thicker guage panels. 24ga is a good panel, 26ga is acceptable, and 29guage is a few steps up from tinfoil. Also, ask for a "snow girt". A snow girt is an extra horizontal framing member, that is placed about 2' up from the floor. This extra girt helps to minimize the potential for falling/piling snow below to damage the wall panel, when the snow piles up alongside the building.
8. Everybody likes a nice concrete floor, but it's harder to achieve than you might think. A good slab starts with good sub grade compaction, and good gravel. The floor thickness is somewhat dependent upon your use, but a 4" slab is an absolute minimum. Make sure it gets some sort of reinforcing steel, with wire mesh being the cheapest alternative. It's very important that your contractor use a low water to cement ratio in the concrete mix ..... hard to get that done, because it's more back breaking work for the guys pouring the slab. Lastly, after the floor is polished, ask that it get control joints cut at about 15' x 15' ... All slabs crack, and the control joints will allow the slab to crack at the joints, rather than randomly through the floor.

I would strongly suggest looking a wood frame structures as an alternative. All of the materials are readily available, and there are a myriad of contractors that could handle such a project. In my opinion, you will get a better quality building, At the size range you are considering, I suspect the construction cost will be lower with wood.

Our company does not do projects of this size, but if you drop me PM, I'd be happy to provide my contact information. If you call me, I could probably give you some basic specs that you could use in seeking proposals.

Good luck!
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:56 AM   #4
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I have a smallish Morton building that is heated and insulated- I am very happy with it.

A friend is building a 5000 foot stick framed, metal skinned building in Moultonborough as well. If you would like to take a peek at either let me know.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:39 PM   #5
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Lots of great information in Ironfish's post. This is someone who knows their business, thanks for taking the time to educate all of us.
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:45 AM   #6
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Default Thank you!

Years of reading and learning from the forum followed by our very first post, and your replies just prove how informative and generous you are.
Thank you so much for the time and thought you put into responding. The list above is fantastic as are the resources you've pointed us to.
We will check back soon.
Thanks again.
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:52 AM   #7
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I have a 22k sqft metal building by Star Steel Buildings. The cost per square foot for completed projects in this size range these days is ridiculous. If you are in the 3-5k sqft range you can still do ok.
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Old 03-01-2014, 07:45 PM   #8
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Default morton bld

did morton bld 25 years ago been awesome. only regret is that i did't do radiant heat..
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