Lake Water System

LIforrelaxin · 09-06-2012, 09:28 AM

In my continuing efforts to change my water source for the camp, I have given some thought to going back to lake water... (we have been sharing off a neighbors well, but that just causes to many problems)... Do any local plumbers install systems like that... Not that I couldn't do it on my own. But I am looking for someone that might have the ability, to put the line underground, and have it come up from the lake bottom out away from the shore, so I don't have to worry about the ice..

I have another neighbor that did this a while back, and it worked out quite well.

songkrai · 09-06-2012, 11:38 AM

It's just standard black plastic pipe going to house/basement/under house and into lake. With some sort of screen in lake end. Some convert lake pipe to galvanized pipe.
The tank and pump can be purchased together. One electrical outlet. Prime the pump and you got it.

Not sure what rules are now for digging ground near lake. Best to check up on that.

Any plumber could do this or hook this up to your interior pipes/water system.

fatlazyless · 09-06-2012, 12:39 PM

I've done that, back in 1992, using a 125' x 1 1/4" long black tube that runs from the 30-gal vertical pressure tank w / 1/2hp pump next to the kitchen refrigerator, about six inches underground and into th lake to a depth of six feet and stop valve. In 1992 for $1050, I bought a Pyrotenax heated water lie from Gilford Well, installed it myself, and it has worked perfect ever since. One January, I forgot to turn on the circuit breaker for the 888 watt heater wire, and it froze up........tune it on......and two days later, it worked again with no damage.

Www.tycothermal.com. In-pipe heating wire

I usually getmy drinking/cooking water from the Gilford Hannaford vend machine for 25-cents/gal or use Waterville Valley town water which is treated, of course.

Not all 1 1/4" black PVC tube is equal.......some is high pressure or something and will expand when the water freezes, and continue to be usable after the heater ire gets turned back on and two days later, melts away your freeze up.

Bear Island South · 09-06-2012, 09:34 PM

I just upgraded my water system from the standard foot valve in the lake and Jet Pump to a Submersible Pump and Filter system.
I contacted Gilford Well and got a price from them, my jaw dropped to the ground after I received their quote $4900, their material prices were inflated 2-3 times the costs I found.
I went on-line and using their itemized material list bought everything I needed for $1700. My system consist of a 1/2 hp submersible pump by Gould’s inserted into a PVC pump screen by Lakos, I built a pump stand using 1/2 PVC and filled each section with sand to help weigh it down. The pump sits in 8-9 feet of water and is about 140 from shore, deep enough so the ice won't bother it. I purchased 300' of 1" poly pipe (160 psi) from Heath's hardware which runs from the pump to the back of our camp where we have an enclosed and insulated pump house. In the pump house is the pressure tank, a sediment filter, a carbon filter and UV filter. Of course there were miscellaneous pipe fittings and electrical components to make it all work.
We are not drinking the water yet but that is our plan once the water has been tested.
Bottom line is how sophisticated you want your system to be will dictate the price.
I purchased most of the bigger items from this company
http://www.aquascience.net/
This is the basic diagram I followed (minus the well casing):
http://www.aquascience.net/submersib...?well_system=1

Good Luck

Slickcraft · 09-07-2012, 04:33 AM

For our island seasonal camp we have a sediment filter, a carbon filter and UV system like Bear Island South. The UV system really works. We have the water tested every year with never an issue.

codeman671 · 09-07-2012, 08:42 AM

Are you using it year round or seasonal? My only concern would be where the line comes out of the ground and into the lake at the shoreline, it could be susceptible to freezing. Our line comes from under the house, runs underground to the shoreline, and is exposed for a few feet where it descends the bank and down into the water. We have a valve at the shoreline where they blow out the line for winterization. Our pump is in the lake, not a jet type up under the house.

DES is not going to let you dig the shoreline out and dig the lake bottom out to keep it fully underground until you get far enough out to be under the ice line.

Heat tape or wire can be used to help with this, but I would be concerned with practicality if it is for year round consisten use.

LIforrelaxin · 09-07-2012, 10:23 AM

Thanks for the input here everyone... I never gave much throught to putting a submersiable pump out in the lake. But it seems to be quite common...

The biggest part of this effort is to get ideas in my head, and you are all helping with that... I would love to drill a well, but I just don't think it is in the budget right now... Thats why I have been thinking of going back to the lake again. However the memories of fighting with the jet pump again, where keeping me from liking that Idea. However If I could put a submersible pump in safely that would be a good comprimise.

Codeman installed your system for you?

ishoot308 · 09-07-2012, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIforrelaxin

Thanks for the input here everyone... I never gave much throught to putting a submersiable pump out in the lake. But it seems to be quite common...

I have a submersible and love it! Nothing to prime and no noise! It's down in about 10' of water on a stand. Water from the lake goes through two sediment filters, a 5 and 50 micron. It then goes through a UV sanitizer and finally a carbon filter for taste. No issues with it yet in four years and the water tastes great. Steve from Island Support and R&D plumbing handled the install.

Dan

codeman671 · 09-07-2012, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIforrelaxin

Thanks for the input here everyone... I never gave much throught to putting a submersiable pump out in the lake. But it seems to be quite common...

The biggest part of this effort is to get ideas in my head, and you are all helping with that... I would love to drill a well, but I just don't think it is in the budget right now... Thats why I have been thinking of going back to the lake again. However the memories of fighting with the jet pump again, where keeping me from liking that Idea. However If I could put a submersible pump in safely that would be a good comprimise.

Codeman installed your system for you?

Steve from ISS and RD Plumbing and Heating took care of ours when the house was built. No issues at all since originally installed 7 years ago. We added a cartridge filter and a Trojan UV a few years later when we decided we wanted to use it for more than showers. The water quality is better than my well in Dover.

09-06-2012, 09:28 AM	#1
LIforrelaxin Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas, Lake Ray Hubbard and NH, Long Island Winnipesaukee Posts: 2,870 Thanks: 1,037 Thanked 892 Times in 524 Posts	Lake Water System In my continuing efforts to change my water source for the camp, I have given some thought to going back to lake water... (we have been sharing off a neighbors well, but that just causes to many problems)... Do any local plumbers install systems like that... Not that I couldn't do it on my own. But I am looking for someone that might have the ability, to put the line underground, and have it come up from the lake bottom out away from the shore, so I don't have to worry about the ice.. I have another neighbor that did this a while back, and it worked out quite well. __________________ Life is about how much time you can spend relaxing... I do it on an island that isn't really an island.....

09-06-2012, 12:39 PM	#3
fatlazyless Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 8,738 Blog Entries: 1 Thanks: 300 Thanked 1,007 Times in 735 Posts	I've done that, back in 1992, using a 125' x 1 1/4" long black tube that runs from the 30-gal vertical pressure tank w / 1/2hp pump next to the kitchen refrigerator, about six inches underground and into th lake to a depth of six feet and stop valve. In 1992 for $1050, I bought a Pyrotenax heated water lie from Gilford Well, installed it myself, and it has worked perfect ever since. One January, I forgot to turn on the circuit breaker for the 888 watt heater wire, and it froze up........tune it on......and two days later, it worked again with no damage. Www.tycothermal.com. In-pipe heating wire I usually getmy drinking/cooking water from the Gilford Hannaford vend machine for 25-cents/gal or use Waterville Valley town water which is treated, of course. Not all 1 1/4" black PVC tube is equal.......some is high pressure or something and will expand when the water freezes, and continue to be usable after the heater ire gets turned back on and two days later, melts away your freeze up. __________________ ... down and out, liv'n that Walmart side of the lake!

09-07-2012, 10:23 AM	#7
LIforrelaxin Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas, Lake Ray Hubbard and NH, Long Island Winnipesaukee Posts: 2,870 Thanks: 1,037 Thanked 892 Times in 524 Posts	Thanks for the input here everyone... I never gave much throught to putting a submersiable pump out in the lake. But it seems to be quite common... The biggest part of this effort is to get ideas in my head, and you are all helping with that... I would love to drill a well, but I just don't think it is in the budget right now... Thats why I have been thinking of going back to the lake again. However the memories of fighting with the jet pump again, where keeping me from liking that Idea. However If I could put a submersible pump in safely that would be a good comprimise. Codeman installed your system for you? __________________ Life is about how much time you can spend relaxing... I do it on an island that isn't really an island.....

09-06-2012, 11:38 AM	#2
songkrai Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 732 Thanks: 35 Thanked 146 Times in 99 Posts	It's just standard black plastic pipe going to house/basement/under house and into lake. With some sort of screen in lake end. Some convert lake pipe to galvanized pipe. The tank and pump can be purchased together. One electrical outlet. Prime the pump and you got it. Not sure what rules are now for digging ground near lake. Best to check up on that. Any plumber could do this or hook this up to your interior pipes/water system.

09-06-2012, 09:34 PM	#4
Bear Island South Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Southboro, MA Posts: 579 Thanks: 75 Thanked 384 Times in 170 Posts	I just upgraded my water system from the standard foot valve in the lake and Jet Pump to a Submersible Pump and Filter system. I contacted Gilford Well and got a price from them, my jaw dropped to the ground after I received their quote $4900, their material prices were inflated 2-3 times the costs I found. I went on-line and using their itemized material list bought everything I needed for $1700. My system consist of a 1/2 hp submersible pump by Gould’s inserted into a PVC pump screen by Lakos, I built a pump stand using 1/2 PVC and filled each section with sand to help weigh it down. The pump sits in 8-9 feet of water and is about 140 from shore, deep enough so the ice won't bother it. I purchased 300' of 1" poly pipe (160 psi) from Heath's hardware which runs from the pump to the back of our camp where we have an enclosed and insulated pump house. In the pump house is the pressure tank, a sediment filter, a carbon filter and UV filter. Of course there were miscellaneous pipe fittings and electrical components to make it all work. We are not drinking the water yet but that is our plan once the water has been tested. Bottom line is how sophisticated you want your system to be will dictate the price. I purchased most of the bigger items from this company http://www.aquascience.net/ This is the basic diagram I followed (minus the well casing): http://www.aquascience.net/submersib...?well_system=1 Good Luck

The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bear Island South For This Useful Post:
Bear247 (09-07-2012), Pine Island Guy (09-09-2012)

09-07-2012, 04:33 AM	#5
Slickcraft Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Welch Island and The Taylor Community Posts: 3,296 Thanks: 1,222 Thanked 2,080 Times in 952 Posts	For our island seasonal camp we have a sediment filter, a carbon filter and UV system like Bear Island South. The UV system really works. We have the water tested every year with never an issue.

09-07-2012, 08:42 AM	#6
codeman671 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 3,486 Thanks: 221 Thanked 810 Times in 486 Posts	Are you using it year round or seasonal? My only concern would be where the line comes out of the ground and into the lake at the shoreline, it could be susceptible to freezing. Our line comes from under the house, runs underground to the shoreline, and is exposed for a few feet where it descends the bank and down into the water. We have a valve at the shoreline where they blow out the line for winterization. Our pump is in the lake, not a jet type up under the house. DES is not going to let you dig the shoreline out and dig the lake bottom out to keep it fully underground until you get far enough out to be under the ice line. Heat tape or wire can be used to help with this, but I would be concerned with practicality if it is for year round consisten use.

The Following User Says Thank You to ishoot308 For This Useful Post:
LIforrelaxin (09-07-2012)