Securing a New Raft

[Jersey Guy]

We are taking a delivery of a new aluminum framed raft from Center Harbor Dock and Pier soon. It's replacing the existing wooded raft that rotted and the floats filled with water after about 10 years. The raft sits in about 10 -12 feet of water, we had used an old very heavy rope to secure it, about 15 - 20 feet long, that can no longer be used. (it was disposed of with the old raft) My question are: 1. Is there a suggested rope length that should be used relative to the depth of the water? 2. What's the best rope and or chain to use for securing a 8x8 foot raft to the existing anchor on the bottom? Thanks!

[codeman671]

Use chain, not rope. Go stainless 3/8". It will last forever and be strong enough. Leave a bit extra for scope and water level fluctuations.

[Bear Islander]

I agree chain is the way to go. Stainless steel chain lasts forever but is expensive. Galvanized chain is cheaper and easier to find but will rust out eventually. You should add a swivel at the raft end of the chain to prevent the chain twisting up as the raft spins.

[NoRegrets]

Use chain as suggested and slide a few feet of black PVC pipe over the chain as a chaff gaurd. When the water is low the chain will rest on the bottom and get worn. Watermark and other long term pro's have use this process.

[meredith weekender]

Originally Posted by Bear Islander

I agree chain is the way to go. Stainless steel chain lasts forever but is expensive. Galvanized chain is cheaper and easier to find but will rust out eventually. You should add a swivel at the raft end of the chain to prevent the chain twisting up as the raft spins.

Bear Islander is definitely correct in saying to use stainless. We used 3/8 galvanized and only got 6 years out of it before it snapped Now we are forced to hire a diver to come in and replace the chain to stainless.

[DickR]

While on the subject, when you go to take the raft out after the swim season is over, clean out an empty 1-gallon laundry detergent jug (orange is best for visibility), and tie it to the end of the chain, or perhaps 4-5 feet from the end if you leave the jug tied to the chain over the summer. Leave a loop in the rope for snagging at the start of the following swim season. After the raft has been detached, let just enough water into the jug so that when you release the assembly the jug sinks to about 3-4 feet from the surface. As the jug is dragged down by the weight of the chain, more of the chain is supported by the lake bottom, until the weight of chain above the bottom equals the buoyancy of the jug. The jug will be positioned so as to be below the ice over the winter and deep enough so fall/spring fishing boats won't hit it, while being close enough to the surface to locate and retrieve later. This arrangement will let you get the raft reinstalled without having to dive to the bottom for the chain.

[codeman671]

Originally Posted by DickR

While on the subject, when you go to take the raft out after the swim season is over, clean out an empty 1-gallon laundry detergent jug (orange is best for visibility), and tie it to the end of the chain, or perhaps 4-5 feet from the end if you leave the jug tied to the chain over the summer. Leave a loop in the rope for snagging at the start of the following swim season. After the raft has been detached, let just enough water into the jug so that when you release the assembly the jug sinks to about 3-4 feet from the surface. As the jug is dragged down by the weight of the chain, more of the chain is supported by the lake bottom, until the weight of chain above the bottom equals the buoyancy of the jug. The jug will be positioned so as to be below the ice over the winter and deep enough so fall/spring fishing boats won't hit it, while being close enough to the surface to locate and retrieve later. This arrangement will let you get the raft reinstalled without having to dive to the bottom for the chain.

Been there, tried that... The easiest way is to tie a rope to the chain and drop it to the bottom, attach weight to the rope to sink it, and run it to shore. Tie it off to a tree. In the spring untie, jump on the raft, reel yourself out to the anchor and clip on. Weighing the rope down keeps it from getting caught up in ice or snagged by fishermen.

[EllyPoinster]

Originally Posted by codeman671

Been there, tried that... The easiest way is to tie a rope to the chain and drop it to the bottom, attach weight to the rope to sink it, and run it to shore. Tie it off to a tree. In the spring untie, jump on the raft, reel yourself out to the anchor and clip on. Weighing the rope down keeps it from getting caught up in ice or snagged by fishermen.

I pretty much do the same thing except I will wrap the loose end of the rope around a flat rock and leave it in about 3 feet of water where it is easily retrieved come spring.

[Jersey Guy]

I appreciate everyone's suggestions, especially like the "rope to shore" idea, we've used a partially submerged empty white clorox bottle to find the anchor in the past, but it became algae covered and was always an adventure trying to find every spring.
While we're on the subject, this raft has a removable cedar top frame that will need to be periodically refinished. Center Harbor Dock and Pier said they used Olympic, but could not get the specfic type. Any suggestions on a durable appropriate finish for a cedar raft?

[nightrider]

I would also suggest a heavy duty snubber on the chain also. Winni waves can be large and a chain will not have any stretch to it.

I would also stay away from the clorox bottle 4 feet under the surface idea. These things catch trolled lures after ice out. Go with the sinking rope to shallow water idea.

[Misty Blue]

Just a few thoughts...

Frist, I think that stainless steel chain is way over the top. You are anchoring a raft, not the space shuttle. A 3/8 inch galvanized chain will last for years.

Yes he S/S chain will last forever but the connection to the mooring block will not. It is made of either galvanized steel (upper shelf) or mild steel, like rebar, which is common. That will fail after a few years.

So what ruins the chain? Sand. Rust is good! It sets up an oxide film that protects the inner metal. When your chain is dragged along the bottom the sand "cleans" away the rust exposing raw metal to the water causing new corrosion and thinning of the chain. That's why PVC is used at the bottom. To keep the chain from chafeing.

The solution, or A solution...

Get a good 3/8 chain with good shackles. Use the shackle to attach the chain to the mooring anchor. Wire tie or use a tie strip (black) through the hole in the shackle to keep it from coming undone. Run "ALMOST" enough chain to reach the raft. I will explain later but let's stay with the chain for now.

The chain will wear as it is dragged through the sand. Sorry. Every year you should and every three years you MUST inspect the whole rig. Look for wear and that the shackle and mooring anchor are in good shape. In the fall the raft is only in 10 feet of warm water. If and when the lower part of the chain wears, rotate it. Take the top of the chain (Which has not been run through the sand, you will find it in very good condition) and put it on the bottom to start chafing next year and take the old bottom and put it on top where it will give you years of service.

Now why not run the chin all the way to the top?

I like to leave about six feet of 3/8 inch nylon line with a "thimble" attached to the chain and run it up to the raft. The Lake level changes up to three feet every year. You can adjust the scope of the anchor to the raft easily from above the water as the Lake level drops over the season.

We also like to use two anchors. One of one side of the raft, one on the other. This way the ladder is always facing the shore line and it makes it easier to swim to. Just a tought.

Good luck with your new toy!

Misty Blue

[Jersey Guy]

Gee, I feel I should invite you all over to inspect the finished product when done! I really appreciate all of your input, the Forum is a great resource.

[codeman671]

I beg to differ on stainless vs galvanized. My mooring chain lasted 5 seasons. I am 5 seasons in on my stainless swim raft setup and it looks new. Our weight is a disk shaped concrete weight purchased at watermark. The chain loops through the center and connects with a stainless shackle. No parts to rust out.

With the depth you are talking about it is not a lot of chain. Do it right the first time.

A chain of proper length should not be dragging in the sand. Ours was measured to give just enough slack at a record high full lake to make the connection, and in lesser depth times the raft drifts just enough to keep it taught and not resting on bottom.

[meredith weekender]

Originally Posted by codeman671

I beg to differ on stainless vs galvanized. My mooring chain lasted 5 seasons. I am 5 seasons in on my stainless swim raft setup and it looks new. Our weight is a disk shaped concrete weight purchased at watermark. The chain loops through the center and connects with a stainless shackle. No parts to rust out.

With the depth you are talking about it is not a lot of chain. Do it right the first time.

A chain of proper length should not be dragging in the sand. Ours was measured to give just enough slack at a record high full lake to make the connection, and in lesser depth times the raft drifts just enough to keep it taught and not resting on bottom.

Totally agree with you codeman on the stainless. As I mentioned earlier, we got 6 years out of our galvanized chain. The whole set-up will be stainless this year. Unfortunately out raft is in 30' of water so it is not an easy task to replace

[Jersey Guy]

Could someone give me an idea what the cost would be for about 15' of 3/8" stainless steel chain? I assume this would be readily available at Heaths Hardware or Aubochon, right? Thanks again.

[BlackCatIslander]

Isn't there a requirement for all rafts to have identification of ownership on them? How do people handle this? Where can you get a plastic, or some other permanent material, nameplate locally?

[codeman671]

Originally Posted by BlackCatIslander

Isn't there a requirement for all rafts to have identification of ownership on them? How do people handle this? Where can you get a plastic, or some other permanent material, nameplate locally?

There is no current regulation for this that I know of. It has been brought up before, as was actually registering them, but there is nothing active. We have never had a name on ours.

[NoBozo]

Originally Posted by Jersey Guy

Could someone give me an idea what the cost would be for about 15' of 3/8" stainless steel chain? I assume this would be readily available at Heaths Hardware or Aubochon, right? Thanks again.

Jamestown Distributers (Bristol, RI) would likely be the cheapest you will find @ $34.99/foot..OR $524.85 + shipping.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...dustrial+Chain

Click on the little arrow to select other sizes. NB

Defender Industries (Waterford, CT) is cheaper. (Same brand)

http://search.defender.com/?Action=2...1-72807100bbdb

[meredith weekender]

Originally Posted by BlackCatIslander

Isn't there a requirement for all rafts to have identification of ownership on them? How do people handle this? Where can you get a plastic, or some other permanent material, nameplate locally?

There is NO law that we are aware that says you have to have your name on your raft. We however do have our name on our raft and it has come in handy due to the fact that our raft has broken free at once per year. We have a poly raft and we used the 3" reflective mail box decals to put our name on the ladder side of the raft.

[John A. Birdsall]

be careful not to mix metals. Electrolysis (never mind the spelling) can destroy a chain, and if it is attached (even near) a outboard motor it can raise havic with it.

We have been using tow chain for trucks, about 20' and it works great. As for the floatation I took some Plastice PVC Pipe, put a cap on each end so it was water tight. and it was good for about four years but then some boat hit it during or just after ice out. I think I like the idea of a rope tied to it. Next fall I am gonna try that. and I will tie it to the boat house. Maybe it can be pulled away.

[Gatto Nero]

Originally Posted by BlackCatIslander

Isn't there a requirement for all rafts to have identification of ownership on them? How do people handle this? Where can you get a plastic, or some other permanent material, nameplate locally?

I don't know it there's a law but its a good idea regardless.

My raft broke loose during the hurricane last year. I had a name tag on it but with an old land line number that we have since done away with. The neighbors who's cove it ended up in where able to find me based on the name but the old number was useless. I've been meaning to replace it but never thought about while I was online. I just ordered one at Office Depot Thanks for the reminder

[Loony Singer]

When we had our aluminum raft (with cedar decking) fabricated several years ago, the folks who made it (Center Harbor Dock and Pier) used their welding equipment to scribe our phone number into one of the structural members. Also on their advice, we secured our raft to the chain with a lock. what kind of lock might withstand this service, you may ask? we found a stainless steel kryptonite lock online that has worked flawlessly for a decade.

[NoBozo]

Stainless Steel is NO Doubt the BEST. (Forgetting Cost) HOWEVER: If you use SS....Use ALL Stainless Steel. IF you use Galvanized..use ALL Galvanized. If you MIX the two you may regret it.

I won't go into "HOW It Works". If you combine 100 links of galvanized chain with...One link of SS chain...not much will happen. If you combine 100 links of SS Chain with ONE link of Galvanized chain...the Galvanized LINK will dissolve quickly....It has to do with comparative surface area of the disparate metals.

If you have property ON The Lake... you are NOT POOR and can afford the Stainless Steel. PAY THE MAN.....DO IT.

When doing ALL Stainless. DO NOT use Galvanized anywhere. NB

[Dave R]

Give ebay a shot at SS chain.

Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-St...393e40&vxp=mtr