Changing furnace filter

[fatlazyless]

That exhaust is made with different steel stove pipe sections that fit together like a Lego and it usually will have some small leaks at the joints that can be tightened up using small sheet metal screws and/or high heat duct tape.

To check it for leaks around the seams, use a little dishwashing soap and water in a spritzer bottle and spray it on the vent pipe exhaust. Any soap bubbles forming and growing indicate a leak when the oil pump/electrode/nozzle/fan blower powers up the boiler.

Each stove pipe joint should go good with three small sheet metal screws and high heat duct tape to seal it up.

[swnoel]

Originally Posted by fatlazyless

That exhaust is made with different steel stove pipe sections that fit together like a Lego and it usually will have some small leaks at the joints that can be tightened up using small sheet metal screws and/or high heat duct tape.

To check it for leaks around the seams, use a little dishwashing soap and water in a spritzer bottle and spray it on the vent pipe exhaust. Any soap bubbles forming and growing indicate a leak when the oil pump/electrode/nozzle/fan blower powers up the boiler.

Each stove pipe joint should go good with three small sheet metal screws and high heat duct tape to seal it up.

Soap bubbles??? The chimney should have a negative draft not positive draft! If you don't you have a problem.

[fatlazyless]

Originally Posted by swnoel

Soap bubbles??? The chimney should have a negative draft not positive draft! If you don't you have a problem.

Yes ..... true enough ..... negative draft ...... except with that 90-degree turn just close to the back of the boiler that creates an obstruction to the air flow from the blower fan and maybe some exhaust gets out. It already has duct tape on it so's that's probably a problem spot.

Hit it with more hi-heat duct tape and clean the outside so's the tape will stick, good.

[Jersey Bob]

Our previous (first house) had an oil fired steam boiler. The previous owner had a service contract with Company A. The first morning in the house we had no heat, called the company and they came out. They had already serviced the boiler that year before the start of the season. I don’t know how many times we had to call them that winter due to problems with the boiler. We might have kept them a second year, but it was a long time ago. I just don’t remember. We changed to Company B for service and oil. They would come at the beginning of the season, clean and service everything. When we moved out 14 years later, we still had the same boiler and never had to call for it having a problem. Oh, and it also provided the domestic hot water for the house, so it ran year round.
The difference was in the service company.

[swnoel]

Originally Posted by fatlazyless

Yes ..... true enough ..... negative draft ...... except with that 90-degree turn just close to the back of the boiler that creates an obstruction to the air flow from the blower fan and maybe some exhaust gets out. It already has duct tape on it so's that's probably a problem spot.

Hit it with more hi-heat duct tape and clean the outside so's the tape will stick, good.

Just curious how long you were in the HVAC field? What blower fan are you talking about and what obstruction? I did this for years and am willing to learn from someone apparently with more expertise that I.

[fatlazyless]

The blower fan is an integral part of the gun that includes the motor, electrode, nozzle, oil pump, and fan.

The obstruction is that 90-degree vent pipe attached to the back of the boiler which force exhaust against the vent seam on the side. Vent pipe sections do not always make a tight fit and need three small sheet metal screws and hi-heat duct tape to seal it up. ......

I graduated from Fast Eddy's 12-Week School of Oil Burner Technology where the emphasis was all about doing it FAST ...... and ABLE to convince the customer that you know what the heck you are doing down in their basement with thaht olde oil burner because you got it done, FAST, and talked all about the fuel oil combustion/filthy dirty OIL soot build-up/electrode/nozzle/oil pump/fan blower, all synchronized together in perfect combustion harmony as you was hitting the oil burner with a FAST tune-up. ....

Steve Lavimoniere the oil burner man: North Dartmouth, Massachusetts; Sept 17, 2020 ..... www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T1s9JSHol4 ..... Smell ... ... of fumes coming from oil burner/water heat boiler

So, why do people go with natural gas by pipe or liquid propane in the tank when it costs more and has less btu's than residential fuel oil? Because it burns cleaner and usually needs way less service calls including no yearly boiler/furnace clean-out/tune-up.

[John Mercier]

On a boiler?
If I am next to my boiler, I can hear the draft down the flue... but I don't think that it is forced.

[mswlogo]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

On a boiler?
If I am next to my boiler, I can hear the draft down the flue... but I don't think that it is forced.

Right, which is why you often see flue dampeners to ease up on the draft.
But you probably hear that after it gets going.

I think there can be a bit of positive pressure at start. When Chimney and everything is cold. The furnace needs to ignite quick and burn as clean and complete as it can until a draft gets going as quick as possible. During that period it does not run good. The longer it's trying to push air up the chimney the more chance you'll get that initial smell.

It could be so many things that can cause a poor/slow ignite or a slow draft.

Electrodes worn
Electrodes not adjusted
Electrodes not clean
Electrodes insulator cracked or dirty
Cold Fuel
Chimney Damaged (water and ice in the chimney)
Nozzle wrong
Nozzle clogged
Oil pump not adjusted to the correct pressure
Oil pump worn
Wrong air intake
Obstruction in chamber

And probably a dozen more.

Note I didn't list pin holes in that flue pipe because those are rarely air tight nor do they need to be. In fact it might be doing you a favor if some smell is coming through that connector pipe because it's telling you, you have a bigger problem. If you make that air tight you might be just be masking a bigger problem.

Just call them again or find someone else is all you can do.
I would also get a chimney guy out since the Chimney is so old.

[John Mercier]

I thought my flue damper was to prevent blow back when wind forces the draft to reverse.

[swnoel]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

I thought my flue damper was to prevent blow back when wind forces the draft to reverse.

The draft regulators purpose is to maintain the correct over fire draft. Some boilers do not require them. They do nothing for downdrafts. My guess is you're hearing the upward draft. Many times you'll see and or hear the regulator bouncing. This should also be checked and adjusted at the time of an annual service.

[John Mercier]

I don't hear the damper.
Only when near the flue, I hear the boiler kick on... then a little while later I hear the draft of exhaust running through the flue.

[SailinAway]

I've stopped the smoke odor in the house by blocking the gap under the door from the cellar to the upstairs. When the furnace is running I can smell the odor inside/around the smoke pipe, about 8 to 10 inches above the bend. Does this tell you anything?

[mswlogo]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

I've stopped the smoke odor in the house by blocking the gap under the door from the cellar to the upstairs. When the furnace is running I can smell the odor inside/around the smoke pipe, about 8 to 10 inches above the bend. Does this tell you anything?

Does it stink / come out after it’s running, as in constant? Or just an initial puff?

A good clean install shouldn’t have to be air tight there. Because a good chimney should have a draft. For an old chimney you can cut it some slack (takes a bit for a draft to get going). How much slack is acceptable, I don’t know.

If it’s a constant leak, I think it’s a fairly serious issue (not the hole itself but the fact it wants to come out the hole).

Like I said, regardless of your issues, like the furnace itself you need to maintain your chimney too. Oil furnaces are especially hard on them because gases are acidic. So get your chimney checked.

Chimney guy can probably fix the vent pipe too.

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by mswlogo

Does it stink / come out after it’s running, as in constant? Or just an initial puff?

A good clean install shouldn’t have to be air tight there. Because a good chimney should have a draft. For an old chimney you can cut it some slack (takes a bit for a draft to get going). How much slack is acceptable, I don’t know.

If it’s a constant leak, I think it’s a fairly serious issue (not the hole itself but the fact it wants to come out the hole).

Like I said, regardless of your issues, like the furnace itself you need to maintain your chimney too. Oil furnaces are especially hard on them because gases are acidic. So get your chimney checked.

Chimney guy can probably fix the vent pipe too.

I believe the odor doesn't appear until the pipe is hot. I can't smell the smoke at the top of the stairs until the furnace has been running for about 20 minutes. So no, not an initial puff.

[swnoel]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

I believe the odor doesn't appear until the pipe is hot. I can't smell the smoke at the top of the stairs until the furnace has been running for about 20 minutes. So no, not an initial puff.

Without knowing what the stack temp is it's hard to know if it's possibly after drip. Is the boiler partially plugged? I know you had 2 pros come out ... sorry to say it's time to have someone else.

[mswlogo]

Originally Posted by swnoel

Without knowing what the stack temp is it's hard to know if it's possibly after drip. Is the boiler partially plugged? I know you had 2 pros come out ... sorry to say it's time to have someone else.

What's "after drip"?

[tis]

Who would believe we have 128 posts about furnace filters???

[swnoel]

Originally Posted by mswlogo

What's "after drip"?

https://www.beckettcorp.com/support/...zle-afterdrip/

[root1]

Motion to end debate!