Lakes Region Auto Mechanic?

[shifthappens]

I'm in Belmont and looking for someone who can install my rear wheel bearings and transmission cross support on my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have all the parts but cannot afford what a dealer wants to charge. Senior on social security doesn't go very far. It would be great if he is a 'freelance' mobile mechanic but if he cannot do it at my home I could come to his shop or whatever. I'm just trying to get these repairs done at a more reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any leads or suggestions.

[BroadHopper]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

I'm in Belmont and looking for someone who can install my rear wheel bearings and transmission cross support on my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have all the parts but cannot afford what a dealer wants to charge. Senior on social security doesn't go very far. It would be great if he is a 'freelance' mobile mechanic but if he cannot do it at my home I could come to his shop or whatever. I'm just trying to get these repairs done at a more reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any leads or suggestions.

Ask the NH technical institute if they can do it for you. Hands on experience for the students but with a teacher watching!

[shifthappens]

Thanks. That's a great idea but I'm not sure it would be a good idea to drive my vehicle that far (Concord). It wobbles pretty bad at times at around 45-50 mph which is why I need the rear bearings replaced as diagnosed by the dealer.

[VitaBene]

Originally Posted by BroadHopper

Ask the NH technical institute if they can do it for you. Hands on experience for the students but with a teacher watching!

Call Lakes Region Community College and ask them. They are in Laconia. Regardless, you may need to get towed or find a friend with a trailer.

[shifthappens]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

Thanks. That's a great idea but I'm not sure it would be a good idea to drive my vehicle that far (Concord). It wobbles pretty bad at times at around 45-50 mph which is why I need the rear bearings replaced as diagnosed by the dealer.

I've done a lot of wheel bearings and the only time i've seen them cause a wobble is if they are so bad that the wheel is going to fall off. I think I would get a second opinion. I'm not saying they aren't bad but you may have other problems also.

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[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I've done a lot of wheel bearings and the only time i've seen them cause a wobble is if they are so bad that the wheel is going to fall off. I think I would get a second opinion. I'm not saying they aren't bad but you may have other problems also.

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The diagnosis from AutoServ in Tilton says, "Found right rear wheel bearing loose and estimate to replace axel with right rear wheel bearing $370" if that makes sense. I forgot to mention the axel because I thought they were just trying to upsell. The wobble just happened when I had to drive on a bumpy road to pay my rent. When I got out on the main road the wobble appeared. Any suggestions?

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

I'm in Belmont and looking for someone who can install my rear wheel bearings and transmission cross support on my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have all the parts but cannot afford what a dealer wants to charge. Senior on social security doesn't go very far. It would be great if he is a 'freelance' mobile mechanic but if he cannot do it at my home I could come to his shop or whatever. I'm just trying to get these repairs done at a more reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any leads or suggestions.

Are the mounts that attach to the cross support OK. Usually the mounts become worn causing a rattling noise.
Just a thought.

[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Rusty

Are the mounts that attach to the cross support OK. Usually the mounts become worn causing a rattling noise.
Just a thought.

I was told that the cross support for the transmission is rotted so I ordered a used one to replace it. I don't hear any rattle. Just a wobble at around 50mph.

[BroadHopper]

Jeep Cherokee. They claim I need a new catalytic converter. I replace both oxygen sensors and no problems since.

Jeep Cherokee again, Autoserv spent 3 days trying to find out 'general fault in emission'. Failed to find the fault. Independent garage found a purge valve installed backward. No problems since.

Always seek second opinions.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

The diagnosis from AutoServ in Tilton says, "Found right rear wheel bearing loose and estimate to replace axel with right rear wheel bearing $370" if that makes sense. I forgot to mention the axel because I thought they were just trying to upsell. The wobble just happened when I had to drive on a bumpy road to pay my rent. When I got out on the main road the wobble appeared. Any suggestions?

$370 to replace axle & bearing is a reasonable price.
If it was my car I would have them do it.
It isn't difficult to do as long as you have the right puller for the axle & bearing.

Anyway, good luck

[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Rusty

$370 to replace axle & bearing is a reasonable price.
If it was my car I would have them do it.
It isn't difficult to do as long as you have the right puller for the axle & bearing.

Anyway, good luck

I am beginning to agree if that includes labor. I will check it out with them. All I need now is to have someone to install the transmission cross support. Thanks for your help.

[shifthappens]

After spending $450 at AutoServ for what 'they' diagnosed as the original problem I drove home and nothing changed. They replaced the right rear axel and bearings, etc. and full alignment. As soon as I left the repair shop when I drove home and reached about 50-52 mph the car starts to shake which tells me 'maybe' there's something wrong the driveshaft. Very frustrating. Sorry, just blowin' out steam.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

After spending $450 at AutoServ for what 'they' diagnosed as the original problem I drove home and nothing changed. They replaced the right rear axel and bearings, etc. and full alignment. As soon as I left the repair shop when I drove home and reached about 50-52 mph the car starts to shake which tells me 'maybe' there's something wrong the driveshaft. Very frustrating. Sorry, just blowin' out steam.

I tried to warn you. I didn't doubt that your wheel bearing was bad but I have never seen one cause a wobble unless it was so bad the wheel was ready to fall off. My best guess is you have a bad tire or a bad u-joint. Either one could cause the wobble that you're describing.

[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I tried to warn you. I didn't doubt that your wheel bearing was bad but I have never seen one cause a wobble unless it was so bad the wheel was ready to fall off. My best guess is you have a bad tire or a bad u-joint. Either one could cause the wobble that you're describing.

Your 'warning' was explained to the service shop as you decribed but they insisted they found the problem. My tires are fine.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

Your 'warning' was explained to the service shop as you decribed but they insisted they found the problem. My tires are fine.

The only way to check the u-joints is to take the drive shaft down and feel if they are binding. Is the wobble in the steering or in the seat when you're driving?
There is a long drag link on the front end of those jeeps that controls the front differential from swaying side to side. I have seen those go and cause a steering shake. Also, the tires may look ok but the only real way to check if a belt is out is to put them on a wheel balancer.

[shifthappens]

The wobble is in the steering.

[Biggd]

It could be that drag link that goes from the frame to the steering linkage. I had the same issue on a Jeep that drove me crazy because the front end was tight and the alignment was right on. I forget what the drag link was called but it's more of a sway bar, not part of the steering linkage.

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[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

It could be that drag link that goes from the frame to the steering linkage. I had the same issue on a Jeep that drove me crazy because the front end was tight and the alignment was right on. I forget what the drag link was called but it's more of a sway bar, not part of the steering linkage.

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Thanks. I'll pass it on to the mechanic tomorrow. Checked EBay and a new 'drag link' for my car is $25 shipped. It's possible it got loose as I had a new tie rod installed last August and maybe the drag link that it attaches to got loose or broke.

[Biggd]

It's a bar that's about 3 to 4ft long. It goes from the frame to the front differential. It keeps the differential from swaying side to side. The Jeep I had would shack violently when you hit a bump at higher speeds.

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[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

It's a bar that's about 3 to 4ft long. It goes from the frame to the front differential. It keeps the differential from swaying side to side. The Jeep I had would shack violently when you hit a bump at higher speeds.

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So that's not what the tie rods connect to? That's what the illustrations show under 'Drag Link'. Is there another name for what you suggest? Here is an example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Drag-Link-for-99-04-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee/131603638720?fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AJeep%7CMode l%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item1ea43029c0:g:1-MAAOSw86Jaafzs&vxp=mtr[/url]

or this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-F...Grand+Cherokee

[Biggd]

No, it's not part of the steering. It's more of a sway bar. You can forget about the drive shaft. If it's shaking in the steering then the problem is in the front end. It's obviously very had to diagnose over the internet but i'm just throwing this out there because I had this issue with a Jeep a few years back.

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[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

No, it's not part of the steering. It's more of a sway bar. You can forget about the drive shaft. If it's shaking in the steering then the problem is in the front end. It's obviously very had to diagnose over the internet but i'm just throwing this out there because I had this issue with a Jeep a few years back.

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Did you see this one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-F...Grand+Cherokee

[Biggd]

That's it, track bar.

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[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

That's it, track bar.

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I thought so. Thanks.

[Biggd]

I couldn't remember the name.

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[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I couldn't remember the name.

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According to a video I just watched it descibes what you said. It states that the dealer wanted about $300 to replace so he did it himself. The part on Ebay is $35. I don't think I could install myself. Do you know anyone that could do it for less if I get the part? It doesn't look too difficult with essentially 2 bolts but 1 of them is hard to access.

[Biggd]

I don't know anyone up there. My shop is in Woburn Ma. It's not hard to do but I have a lift and air tools. Much harder to do on the ground.

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[shifthappens]

UPDATE: AutoServ has agreed to order a new Track Bar, install and realignment for free. The service manager admitted that the car was not road tested as indicated on the receipt and did not diagnose a proper fix. The technician was experienced enough to make the call

[Hillcountry]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

UPDATE: AutoServ has agreed to order a new Track Bar, install and realignment for free. The service manager admitted that the car was not road tested as indicated on the receipt and did not diagnose a proper fix. The technician was experienced enough to make the call

Good for you!
Kudos to BigD for the forum diagnosis!

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

UPDATE: AutoServ has agreed to order a new Track Bar, install and realignment for free. The service manager admitted that the car was not road tested as indicated on the receipt and did not diagnose a proper fix. The technician was experienced enough to make the call

I hope that cures your problem. Like I said, it's pretty hard to diagnose a problem over the internet.
I have friends sending me video's all the time asking me what's wrong with their car. If it was that easy then I would just stay home and charge consulting fees.

[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I hope that cures your problem. Like I said, it's pretty hard to diagnose a problem over the internet.
I have friends sending me video's all the time asking me what's wrong with their car. If it was that easy then I would just stay home and charge consulting fees.

I'm feeling confident that you are right about the Track Bar after reading and videos of the same problem nicknamed 'Death Wobble' that happens in so many of this model type. I also talked to another local mechanic that has installed many of these with exactly the same symptoms. He charges $70/hr. You bring the part and he installs. Good to know for future probs. The bar will be installed on Monday. I'll let you know if that was the answer. BTW, the manager at AutoServe told me that they have a 2 tiered tech system. The 1st level are young guys out of school learning and do only the low impact service i.e. oil changes, tire rotation, etc. Then the more detailed service goes to their more experience mechanics. Evidently, my lower ranked mechanic did not do the proper procedures i.e. road test which is why I'm getting the repair done gratis by the more experienced dude.

[thinkxingu]

I always thought the track bar only masked death wobble and that it was mostly the result of worn front-end components allowing harmonic vibration to enter the steering system.

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[noreast]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I always thought the track bar only masked death wobble and that it was mostly the result of worn front-end components allowing harmonic vibration to enter the steering system.

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More so on a Wrangler for some reason in my experience.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I always thought the track bar only masked death wobble and that it was mostly the result of worn front-end components allowing harmonic vibration to enter the steering system.

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I have never seen a Harmonic damper cause a steering vibration. The harmonic damper is on the front of engine and would cause an engine vibration. Unless you're getting it confused with the steering damper which is a steering shock absorber.
The Jeep that I had was at multiple shops and had numerous front end parts replaced until it was brought to my shop because no one could solve the front end wobble problem.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I have never seen a Harmonic damper cause a steering vibration. The harmonic damper is on the front of engine and would cause an engine vibration. Unless you're getting it confused with the steering damper which is a steering shock absorber.
The Jeep that I had was at multiple shops and had numerous front end parts replaced until it was brought to my shop because no one could solve the front end wobble problem.

I don't mean the harmonic damper as a part, I meant harmonic vibration in terms of hitting the "right frequency" at certain speeds to cause a front-end shimmy. Definitely what happens on the Wrangler, but not sure about other Jeeps.

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[dt5150]

another cause of death wobble symptoms are worn out control arm bushings.

[jbolty]

death wobble is very common with worn control arm bushings. Also it's common for the track bar bolt to come loose or for the mounting bracket on the "frame" side to break.

before doing anything take a spin through here for the best free help available for anything jeep related. Read thru the posts and/or join the forum and post a question

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f115/

[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I hope that cures your problem. Like I said, it's pretty hard to diagnose a problem over the internet.
I have friends sending me video's all the time asking me what's wrong with their car. If it was that easy then I would just stay home and charge consulting fees.

UPDATE: The dealer installed a new Track Bar and realigned the front end and that definitely did the trick. They even gave me a free rental while they fixed the car. It's amazing but I had to tell them how to fix the problem thanks to your suggestion. All work was done free. Thanks again for your help.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

UPDATE: The dealer installed a new Track Bar and realigned the front end and that definitely did the trick. They even gave me a free rental while they fixed the car. It's amazing but I had to tell them how to fix the problem thanks to your suggestion. All work was done free. Thanks again for your help.

I'm glad your problem was resolved.

[BroadHopper]

Infamous among Jeeps. Talk to those who knows Jeeps and they will tell you to replace all bushings with neoprene aftermarket, replace the bolts holding the track bar, and replace the steering stabilizer and your Jeep is ready to run at 100 mph without a problem. I had Black Widow Customs in Manchester, a well known Jeep custom shop did the work. My 2001 XJ faithfully navigate I-93 at 70 every week day to Cannon Mtn and back!

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by BroadHopper

Infamous among Jeeps. Talk to those who knows Jeeps and they will tell you to replace all bushings with neoprene aftermarket, replace the bolts holding the track bar, and replace the steering stabilizer and your Jeep is ready to run at 100 mph without a problem. I had Black Widow Customs in Manchester, a well known Jeep custom shop did the work. My 2001 XJ faithfully navigate I-93 at 70 every week day to Cannon Mtn and back!

I'm not a big fan of neoprene bushings, they tend to be noisy on most cars. I did a few cars with neoprene and had complaints so I only used factory parts now. In my business, complaints mean lost time and money.

[noreast]

Black Widow did our 2000 TJ underneath as well, They did a great job. we already had a big lift on it but every connection/rod/bushing was redone. It better last a long time for the money dumped in.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

UPDATE: The dealer installed a new Track Bar and realigned the front end and that definitely did the trick. They even gave me a free rental while they fixed the car. It's amazing but I had to tell them how to fix the problem thanks to your suggestion. All work was done free. Thanks again for your help.

I'm doing a track bar on a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee today.

[BroadHopper]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I'm doing a track bar on a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee today.

What I was told there is nothing wrong with the track bars, but installations holes wear bigger over time and the bolts themselves. Installing larger diameter bolts seem to do the trick!

[Biggd]

The bushings go in them as was the case with this one. The truck was all over the road and had a violent wobble after hitting a bump at high speed.

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[thinkxingu]

I think there was also an issue of using incorrectly sized bolts and/or bolts with/without shoulders in the past, which would result in "ovaling" out the track bar installation holes.

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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I think there was also an issue of using incorrectly sized bolts and/or bolts with/without shoulders in the past, which would result in "ovaling" out the track bar installation holes.

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The only way that would happen is if the bolts were not tight. I haven't seen that issue in any of the Jeeps I've worked on but I'm sure it could happen.

[shifthappens]

If all else fails check the brakes. As in my case after all the dealer did the problem kept returning. I thought it was finally fixed after the trackbar was replaced. The wobble soon returned. Took it to an independent mechanic and it was discovered that the driver front brake was slightly red compared to the passenger side. After taking the brake assembly apart and cleaning, etc. and reinstalling at no cost the mystery wobble disappeared. The left brake was not always releasing and would randomly hang up. Just another area to check.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by shifthappens

If all else fails check the brakes. As in my case after all the dealer did the problem kept returning. I thought it was finally fixed after the trackbar was replaced. The wobble soon returned. Took it to an independent mechanic and it was discovered that the driver front brake was slightly red compared to the passenger side. After taking the brake assembly apart and cleaning, etc. and reinstalling at no cost the mystery wobble disappeared. The left brake was not always releasing and would randomly hang up. Just another area to check.

Me thinks we have another FLL in this forum.
Now we have "wobble" that is competing with noodle.

Hard to believe that there are so many untrained mechanics where you took your Jeep.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Biggd

The only way that would happen is if the bolts were not tight. I haven't seen that issue in any of the Jeeps I've worked on but I'm sure it could happen.

Yes--one of the remedies was to, upon purchasing, torque the bolts down to factory specs which, for some reason, wasn't always accomplished at the factory. A second remedy was to purchase a set of "correct bolts" and replace the "incorrect" factory ones.

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[shifthappens]

Originally Posted by Rusty

Me thinks we have another FLL in this forum.
Now we have "wobble" that is competing with noodle.

Hard to believe that there are so many untrained mechanics where you took your Jeep.

Agree. The dealership has different levels of mechanics. They hire kids from HS to train and do the light stuff like oil changes and tires. Then the next tier are are the more experienced and handle the big stuff. I didn't know that until I express my concern in not diagnosing the problem correctly and then commitiing to 'necessary' repairs that never fixed the problem after $450. The mechanics also statedthat they test drove the car which they did not as indicated by the mileage in and out on the bill. This is a big dealership that sells 7-8 different new brands. I felt very uncomfortable returning several times to report it still wasn't fixed which is why I finally decided to visit an independant repair service. The fact that the final repair was done gratis because of the hassle I went through ensures that they will have my business from now on.

[thinkxingu]

Description from upgrade kit:

"This must-have upgrade will put your mind at ease. This kit will fix the design flaw caused by the stock bolts.The problem arises because the holes for the track bars (TB) are 9/16” while the factory bolts are 14mm. This creates a small clearance issue. The other issue is the factory bolts are completely threaded to the head. The threads come into contact with the metal sleeve in the bushing. Both of these factors will cause the bushing sleeve to wear down and become loose over a fairly short period of time causing damage and eventually death wobble. Our upgrade kit provides everything you need to replace the bolts for the Front Track Bar, and Rear Track Bar. New bolts will match factory 9/16” holes and new bolts have shoulder to prevent threads from coming into contact with bushing. Kit contains high strength Grade 8 hardware. Includes hardened extra thick washers (2 per bolt) that will not deform like standard washers and hex locking nuts. All hardware is yellow zinc to prevent rust."

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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Description from upgrade kit:

"This must-have upgrade will put your mind at ease. This kit will fix the design flaw caused by the stock bolts.The problem arises because the holes for the track bars (TB) are 9/16” while the factory bolts are 14mm. This creates a small clearance issue. The other issue is the factory bolts are completely threaded to the head. The threads come into contact with the metal sleeve in the bushing. Both of these factors will cause the bushing sleeve to wear down and become loose over a fairly short period of time causing damage and eventually death wobble. Our upgrade kit provides everything you need to replace the bolts for the Front Track Bar, and Rear Track Bar. New bolts will match factory 9/16” holes and new bolts have shoulder to prevent threads from coming into contact with bushing. Kit contains high strength Grade 8 hardware. Includes hardened extra thick washers (2 per bolt) that will not deform like standard washers and hex locking nuts. All hardware is yellow zinc to prevent rust."

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That sounds like a great remedy if you are doing a lot of off road 4 wheeling. Where I am I don't see much of that. The ones I see are just regular daily drivers so they don't experience that kind of off road use. I've probably done about 10 track bars over the years and have never had one where the bolt holes where elongated, just worn out bushings.