Wet Basement Contractors?

ccw1844 · 10-20-2011, 10:00 AM

Hello,
I have an older basement (block) that tends to get a bit wet. Does anyone know of some reliable local contractors that have experience water proofing basements?

Thanks in advance.

fpartri497 · 10-20-2011, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccw1844

Hello,
I have an older basement (block) that tends to get a bit wet. Does anyone know of some reliable local contractors that have experience water proofing basements?

Thanks in advance.

the TV commercials for that Grey lock sealer seems Like It might be a possible cure for you. might be an alternative for you before going to the expence of hiring a pro.

songkrai · 10-20-2011, 01:51 PM

If the walls are just damp there are sealers that come in gallon and 5 gallon containers and you apply like paint. Possibly add a dehumidifier.

If you have water coming in then you should be seeking the source of the water. Downspouts, proper drainage, etc.

Sadly, many homes are constructed with poor perimeter drains and poor drainage.

If you live on any kind of hill you can try to get all ground water to go someplace else besides your basement.

Any earth works contractor that does dig foundations can take a look. This could have the potential to be costly to do it correctly. You want the water to travel away from home. More and better drainage pipes can be dug/installed surrounding home.

This has been a tough Summer/Fall for ground water.

ishoot308 · 10-20-2011, 02:17 PM

I'm not sure if "Dry Lok" paint would fix your water problems, but I will say that when we finished our basement my contractor recommended Dry Lok on all the concrete walls. What a difference it made! It really got rid of the damp basement feeling and made the finished basement much more comfortable. This might be something to ask your contractor about when you find one.

Good Luck!

Dan

NHskier · 10-20-2011, 08:22 PM

The type of solution needed depends on the type of water infiltration you are dealing with. If for example you have water coming up through cracks in the floor, which could be due to a high water table and resulting hydraulic pressure, you may well need a heavy-duty solution such as an interior French drain system. On the other hand if it's just a minor bit of weeping through a wall crack, the coatings mentioned may do the trick.

One of the other posters had some good advice about looking over your drainage situation as that can make a big difference.

Belmont Resident · 10-21-2011, 06:21 AM

Or as mentioned above a drainage system would fix the actual problem.
No matter how little or great the water problem is a proper drainage system is the fix to the problem. Sealers like dry lock and others don’t actually address the problem they might fix the result. You will still have the water it just can’t get in.
You need to get the water coming off your roof as far away from the house as possible.
Sometimes gutters will be all you need. We live in a house built in 1790 (hate this house) and we have seepage. I installed gutters and it took care of most of the problem.
The true fix is something you can do yourself without too much trouble. You would want to rent a small tractor with a bachhoe but it really isn't all that hard to do if you have the time and ability.
Do a search, the fix is called a French drainage system.

sky's · 10-21-2011, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Belmont Resident

Or as mentioned above a drainage system would fix the actual problem.
No matter how little or great the water problem is a proper drainage system is the fix to the problem. Sealers like dry lock and others don’t actually address the problem they might fix the result. You will still have the water it just can’t get in.
You need to get the water coming off your roof as far away from the house as possible.
Sometimes gutters will be all you need. We live in a house built in 1790 (hate this house) and we have seepage. I installed gutters and it took care of most of the problem.
The true fix is something you can do yourself without too much trouble. You would want to rent a small tractor with a bachhoe but it really isn't all that hard to do if you have the time and ability.
Do a search, the fix is called a French drainage system.

i'll second the gutters we install gutters on home's in the area with great results. Seamless Aluminum gutters with shields are very effective. These products have come along way. good luck

Kamper · 10-23-2011, 07:32 AM

"French Drains" and other adjustments to your terrain are useful if you have surface water flowing up to your foundation. If the house is on sandy soil, sometimes all you might need is a small embankment against the foundation.

Water-block paints applied to the interior surface can provide some relief. How much depends on the condition of the surface it is applied to. It is more effective if you can apply it to the exterior surface which is why most poured foundations get that layer of black tar sealant before the dirt is back-filled.

When I "pointed up" my cinder-block foundation I dug to about 2 feet below surface level and when I back-filled I made a slope and coverred that with heavy plastic sheeting, and coverred that over. This has given me an invisible barrier for just a few bucks and only a few more minutes on the job.

I hope you can get the desired results with one/some of these simpler methods. Your contractor may also suggest more extreme alternatives like digging around your foundation and pouring a second layer of cement to seal any exisiting breaks in the existing structure.

Since this thread has not gotten you any vendor references it looks like you are going to have to search elsewhere. The local yellow-pages might help. Also the building inspector's office might be able to provide names of people who have recently done this type of work in your area but may not be able to do more than tell you if you will need permits.

Good luck!

DickR · 10-23-2011, 08:30 AM

Building on what Kamper added, in most cases that black spray applied to the outside of a new foundation is just a very thin "dampproofing" layer, intended as a water diffusion retarder. It won't help much against the inevitable cracks that develop over time.

A block foundation inherently has more weak spots, at the mortar joints, and that is where leaks develop. If you go the route of excavating on the outside, There are a few things that could be done then to eliminate the leaking. One would be to have a thicker waterproofing sealant sprayed on. Another would be a peel & stick membrane applied. Either is on the order of 60 mils in thickness and will bridge cracks up to perhaps 1/16" wide. A different approach would be to apply something like Cosella-Dorken's "Delta-MS"
(http://www.doerken.de/bvf-ca-en/prod...eets/index.php) to the outside of the wall.

The best solution will be some compromise between access to the inside or outside of the walls, and cost.

NHskier · 10-23-2011, 06:12 PM

In my situation we had to go with an interior French drain type of system, directed to a sump pump. Basement systems of NH installed the system and we've been very satisfied during the past few years. I have no doubt whatsoever that we've stayed dry through storms that in the past would have caused problems.

We have gutters and pipe directing water away, and exterior grading is ok. But we're downslope some, and on a lot of ledge, so it's a ground water issue, not surface drainage. In a nutshell, surface drainage is the first thing to look at, and the least expensive fix. Once you go into the ground, be it outside or inside, it gets much more expensive.

kauriel · 10-24-2011, 11:06 PM

In addition to gutters and sealant you should consider adding gutter extentions and/or rain barrel to push runoff even further from foundation.

10-20-2011, 10:00 AM	#1
ccw1844 Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 13 Thanks: 17 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Wet Basement Contractors? Hello, I have an older basement (block) that tends to get a bit wet. Does anyone know of some reliable local contractors that have experience water proofing basements? Thanks in advance.

10-20-2011, 02:17 PM	#4
ishoot308 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Gilford, NH / Welch Island Posts: 5,932 Thanks: 2,290 Thanked 4,942 Times in 1,917 Posts	I'm not sure if "Dry Lok" paint would fix your water problems, but I will say that when we finished our basement my contractor recommended Dry Lok on all the concrete walls. What a difference it made! It really got rid of the damp basement feeling and made the finished basement much more comfortable. This might be something to ask your contractor about when you find one. Good Luck! Dan Last edited by ishoot308; 10-20-2011 at 06:16 PM.

10-20-2011, 08:22 PM	#5
NHskier Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 284 Thanks: 40 Thanked 33 Times in 30 Posts	The type of solution needed depends on the type of water infiltration you are dealing with. If for example you have water coming up through cracks in the floor, which could be due to a high water table and resulting hydraulic pressure, you may well need a heavy-duty solution such as an interior French drain system. On the other hand if it's just a minor bit of weeping through a wall crack, the coatings mentioned may do the trick. One of the other posters had some good advice about looking over your drainage situation as that can make a big difference. __________________ NHskier

10-21-2011, 06:21 AM	#6
Belmont Resident Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Belmont NH but prefer Jackman Maine Posts: 1,857 Thanks: 491 Thanked 409 Times in 251 Posts	gutters? Or as mentioned above a drainage system would fix the actual problem. No matter how little or great the water problem is a proper drainage system is the fix to the problem. Sealers like dry lock and others don’t actually address the problem they might fix the result. You will still have the water it just can’t get in. You need to get the water coming off your roof as far away from the house as possible. Sometimes gutters will be all you need. We live in a house built in 1790 (hate this house) and we have seepage. I installed gutters and it took care of most of the problem. The true fix is something you can do yourself without too much trouble. You would want to rent a small tractor with a bachhoe but it really isn't all that hard to do if you have the time and ability. Do a search, the fix is called a French drainage system.

10-23-2011, 06:12 PM	#10
NHskier Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 284 Thanks: 40 Thanked 33 Times in 30 Posts	In my situation we had to go with an interior French drain type of system, directed to a sump pump. Basement systems of NH installed the system and we've been very satisfied during the past few years. I have no doubt whatsoever that we've stayed dry through storms that in the past would have caused problems. We have gutters and pipe directing water away, and exterior grading is ok. But we're downslope some, and on a lot of ledge, so it's a ground water issue, not surface drainage. In a nutshell, surface drainage is the first thing to look at, and the least expensive fix. Once you go into the ground, be it outside or inside, it gets much more expensive. __________________ NHskier

10-20-2011, 01:51 PM	#3
songkrai Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 725 Thanks: 35 Thanked 145 Times in 98 Posts	If the walls are just damp there are sealers that come in gallon and 5 gallon containers and you apply like paint. Possibly add a dehumidifier. If you have water coming in then you should be seeking the source of the water. Downspouts, proper drainage, etc. Sadly, many homes are constructed with poor perimeter drains and poor drainage. If you live on any kind of hill you can try to get all ground water to go someplace else besides your basement. Any earth works contractor that does dig foundations can take a look. This could have the potential to be costly to do it correctly. You want the water to travel away from home. More and better drainage pipes can be dug/installed surrounding home. This has been a tough Summer/Fall for ground water.

10-23-2011, 07:32 AM	#8
Kamper Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Thornton's Ferry Posts: 1,296 Thanks: 67 Thanked 166 Times in 126 Posts	"French Drains" and other adjustments to your terrain are useful if you have surface water flowing up to your foundation. If the house is on sandy soil, sometimes all you might need is a small embankment against the foundation. Water-block paints applied to the interior surface can provide some relief. How much depends on the condition of the surface it is applied to. It is more effective if you can apply it to the exterior surface which is why most poured foundations get that layer of black tar sealant before the dirt is back-filled. When I "pointed up" my cinder-block foundation I dug to about 2 feet below surface level and when I back-filled I made a slope and coverred that with heavy plastic sheeting, and coverred that over. This has given me an invisible barrier for just a few bucks and only a few more minutes on the job. I hope you can get the desired results with one/some of these simpler methods. Your contractor may also suggest more extreme alternatives like digging around your foundation and pouring a second layer of cement to seal any exisiting breaks in the existing structure. Since this thread has not gotten you any vendor references it looks like you are going to have to search elsewhere. The local yellow-pages might help. Also the building inspector's office might be able to provide names of people who have recently done this type of work in your area but may not be able to do more than tell you if you will need permits. Good luck!

10-23-2011, 08:30 AM	#9
DickR Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Moultonborough Posts: 735 Thanks: 4 Thanked 254 Times in 166 Posts	Building on what Kamper added, in most cases that black spray applied to the outside of a new foundation is just a very thin "dampproofing" layer, intended as a water diffusion retarder. It won't help much against the inevitable cracks that develop over time. A block foundation inherently has more weak spots, at the mortar joints, and that is where leaks develop. If you go the route of excavating on the outside, There are a few things that could be done then to eliminate the leaking. One would be to have a thicker waterproofing sealant sprayed on. Another would be a peel & stick membrane applied. Either is on the order of 60 mils in thickness and will bridge cracks up to perhaps 1/16" wide. A different approach would be to apply something like Cosella-Dorken's "Delta-MS" (http://www.doerken.de/bvf-ca-en/prod...eets/index.php) to the outside of the wall. The best solution will be some compromise between access to the inside or outside of the walls, and cost.

10-24-2011, 11:06 PM	#11
kauriel Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Laconia, N. MA Posts: 290 Thanks: 119 Thanked 62 Times in 44 Posts	In addition to gutters and sealant you should consider adding gutter extentions and/or rain barrel to push runoff even further from foundation.