The Merrimack River: its source and its tributaries

[Rattlesnake Gal]

The Merrimack River:
its
source and its tributaries

Embracing a history of manufactures, and of the towns along its course;
their geography, topography, and products, with a
description of the magnificent natural scenery
about its upper waters.

By J. W. Meader

BOSTON:
PUBLISHED BY B. B. RUSSELL, 55 CORNHILL. 1869

THE MERRIMACK RIVER;
CHAPTER IV.

The Forks. - Winnipesaukee Lake and River. - Pickerel Fishing. - The Wiers. - Laconia. -
Capt. Lovewell. - Centre Harbor. - Moultonborough. - Red Hill. - Sandwich.

HAVING arrived at the forks of the Merrimack in Franklin, namely, the Pemigewasset and the Winnipesaukee, it will be proper to turn attention to the latter stream and its great reservoir. It is at the confluence of these two streams that the Merrimack takes its name, - a name, whenever and wherever heard, suggestive of bright waters, industrious, prosperous, and happy communities, great factories filled with intricate and delicate machinery, and bright eyes and nimble and cunning hands to guide its movements.

Lake Winnipesaukee, the source of the river of the same name, is a large and magnificent sheet of water. It may be regarded as the grand central plateau of New Hampshire waters. The name is of Indian derivation, and has not unfrequently been erroneously interpreted as signifying "The Smile of the Great Spirit." This, however, is incorrect; it being rendered literally signifies the "beautiful water of the high place." The lake is something more than twenty miles in length, and affords a scene of unsurpassed loveliness. Like the glimmer glass of Cooper it spreads away like a liquid sheet of burnished silver in the bright sunlight, and forests rising high along its emerald banks mirror and reproduce themselves deep in its placid bosom. A calm serenity sits enthroned upon its polished surface, except when moderate breezes stir it into dancing ripples, or strong gales move it to gentle undulations.

This lake has many notable features. It is reputed to contain, like other famous waters, the inevitable three hundred and sixty-five islands. Whether this is so or not, the islands are numerous. On some of them are many farms of excellent and unusually productive land; others; are used solely for pasturing and herds of cattle and large numbers of sheep here find a splendid summer resort, securely enclosed, no trouble to the owner or his neighbor, and at the same time entirely self-sustaining; others are used solely for the gathering of picnic and excursion parties which resort here from long distances as well as the immediate neighborhood of the lake; and public-spirited or speculating individuals have erected permanent buildings, furnished with all the modern conveniences for innocent recreation for old and young, for religious societies as well as for the world's people; and here, throughout the summer season, crowds disembark from the steamers daily almost, having fled from the sweltering brick walls of pent-up cities, armed with all the needed supplies and luxuries to enjoy a holiday of social and rational pleasure, to indulge in the exciting and exhilarating sport of fishing and other amusements, and to drink of the waters of the translucent fountains, cool and refreshing from the mountains.

There are, also, many islands in this magnificent lake, luxuriant in majestic forest-trees, wild in matted and tangled undergrowth, like monster emeralds in a silver setting, or like an Oriental picture, the permanent haunt of the rattlesnake, and the temporary resort of the strong-lunged loon land other aquatic fowl. Considering the great size of this lake, its water-shed is extremely limited, so much so, that it is a great wonder how it maintains as steadily as it does its maximum depth. The topography of the surrounding territory would appear to the view well adapted to supply the feeders of this great body of water, but no stream of any magnitude finds its way into it. A narrow strip of territory skirting the lake shore supplies the usual small brooks, and these comprise the sum-total of its affluents. The extensive country stretching, away to the north some twenty or thirty miles to the Sandwich Mountains, whose inclination is to the southward, including the country some distance to the east and west, would seem to be the natural supply for the lake; but this is not so. The Bearcamp River rises among these mountains, and, after approaching within a few miles of Winnipesaukee, trends eastward and discharges its waters into the Ossipee Lake, from thence disgorged through the Ossipee River into the Saco.

Nearly all of the territory on the eastern side is drained by the Cochecho, which has its source or sources in the immediate vicinity, and it is well established that the lake can easily be turned and drained into the Cochecho instead of its present channel, thus making a vast difference in the power of the noble Merrimack; for, without this important tributary and more especially without this indispensable reservoir, the supply would fall short. Experience and a wise forecast combined have led the great companies along the river to provide artificial means to reduce the whole extent of this vast reservoir several feet, to meet the contingencies of hot weather and dry seasons.

The lake abounds in fish of many varieties; the lake trout and the pickerel being the most important and valuable. Cusk are much prized by many, and perch and horned-pout may be taken at any time, by the most inexperienced anglers, in quantities to suit. A variety of salt-water fish were some years since placed in this lake by experimenting parties; but as nothing was seen or known of them afterwards, it wais presumed they found their level either in a "watery grave" or through the channel of the Winnipesaukee and the Merrimack in a more congenial element, the briny deep.

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