Water filters and hookups for island

[Jumbie98]

Ok, just getting electricity to my island and had an outdoor shower built. The plan is an on demand hot water heater (electric), I want to pull water from the lake and wondering what type of filtration, pump and outside water storage people are using. I would like the water to be silt/dirt free by the time it is pumped into the on demand water heater and shower.

[Slickcraft]

We have a submersible pump that stays in the lake, no priming. At the camp we have sedimentation and carbon filters followed by a UV purifier.

[garysanfran]

For a company that specializes in lake water systems.

I'm leaning toward continuing to use lake water over drilling a well. With lake H2O, you know what you're getting. With a well, there's no determining how deep it must be drilled (expense) and no idea of the quality, or quantity, of water until you hit "pay dirt". By then, you're kind of stuck with what you've now got.

Thanks...

[Descant]

We have a submersible pump, same aS Slickcraft, but no filters. Water tests fine. The key is to get the pump/intake into deep water. Testing the water first will give more info about what you want to filter out. There is no storage tank, but there is a (air) pressure tank so the pump doesn't run constantly. There is a lot of filter info at http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ad.php?t=20676
Perhaps hard to find since the thread title doesn't give subject matter?

[ApS]

Originally Posted by Jumbie98

Ok, just getting electricity to my island and had an outdoor shower built. The plan is an on demand hot water heater (electric), I want to pull water from the lake and wondering what type of filtration, pump and outside water storage people are using. I would like the water to be silt/dirt free by the time it is pumped into the on demand water heater and shower.

I'd expect more suspended silt/dirt particles on the NW side of islands. Is the on-demand water heater particularly sensitive to silt/dirt ?

We have a 100-foot waterline with a pair of foot valves about 30 inches above the lake bottom. (Two foot valves, as having only one allows clumps of suspended algae to jam-up the whole works by late summer).

The line has a hose-bib just below the winter's water surface, which we've stopped using, as the waterline seems immune to bursting from ice pressures. The dock's water circulators may help in that regard. It's the same plastic line as our neighbor's—who never winterized theirs.

The water line is connected to a trouble-free ½-HP Jacuzzi pump and pressure tank, which replaced a desirable tiny Gould on-demand, water pump in 1980. Both are US-made.

There are no filters, and haven't been any here for over 60 years. The showerhead gets an overnight bath in vinegar about every six years, so that's all we've faced for silt/dirt . The lake's drinking water gets boiled for protection against Giardia lamblia cysts, which are worldwide, and found all over the northeast US states. Even wells are affected. We've added a "final-filter", using the usual 5µm to 10µm paper coffee filter which is best described with photographs (for later).

Formerly, we used two water distillers, which we ran mornings, as they threw off a lot of heat while boiling (thusly, making safe drinking water and heat).

My Florida lakefront uses water pumps from Harbor Freight—which get replaced about every three years. The tanks and motors are still operable, but it's their peculiar pressure switches that fail. Harbor Freight pumps are only about $110 each, including the pressure tank, so that's how I deal with it. If I lived on an island, I'd buy two!

Underwater photo of concrete-filled tub, imbedded stainless steel pipe, and bronze foot valves (with screens) in 10-feet depth of water :