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Old 07-29-2020, 05:32 PM   #1
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Default Two Stroke Outboard Help

Hi All!
Some of you may remember another forum member gifting my son an aluminum rowboat last year (the year before?!). Along with the dinghy was a 7HP two-stroke Mercury outboard and fuel tank.
I'm not all that mechanically inclined, but I'd like to maybe get it going for L'il Buddy since he's been doing so well with the trolling setup.
Can someone summarize, or point me to a resource that shows, what I'll need to do?
My questions, more specifically: 1. What should I replace before trying (other than fresh fuel)? 2. What do I do with the oil/mix? 3. How does the tank connect? 4. Starting procedure? (I noticed there's a priming bulb). 5. Controls? (They look simple, but I just want to be sure). 6. Finally, we have oars—would the best/easiest approach be to put it in the water or find a bucket?

Thanks!

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Old 07-29-2020, 05:44 PM   #2
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Bucket. Get the motor running.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:23 PM   #3
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First of all start out with the model year and number of the motor, that will tell you what you 3/4 of what you need to know. Find actual *serial* number also. Usually easily found on Mercury's

Most of this stuff you can actually get at wally-world or old mercs.com or a number of other places for the mercury parts. The questions you asked need this information to be answered properly.

Went through all this two weeks ago with my sons old boat. new fuel tank, lines, filters carburetor rebuilding, water pump ect. Got it so it would start on first pull.

A lot of these old motors use the same parts so just about anything is available. However there are some considerations on the fuel connections. They use two different types that look the same but are not.
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Old 07-29-2020, 07:04 PM   #4
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I'm guessing this is what you have 7.5 hp ....... they do not make a 7.0 hp




Water pump repair tips for a 9.8 hp. (but essentially the same motor as the 7.5) Notice the very similar parts that take a keen eye to spot out. Same issue with the fuel connections.

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Old 07-29-2020, 07:56 PM   #5
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I have some spare 55 gallon drums. You are welcome to one if you like...couple of clamps and a 2x4 and you have a way to work on the motor out of the water. I’m sure someone has made one on YouTube...google it!
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:18 PM   #6
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Remember ............. It's no wake in the 55 gallon drum, strictly enforced.
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Old 07-29-2020, 11:57 PM   #7
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Check your PM's.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:52 AM   #8
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trash barrel and a piece of wood will work on that size motor.

As stated above need motor info, but i for one:
bottle of sea foam, some starter fluid just to give the carb a sniff from the outside.

fuel/oil mix will depend on serial number.

change the plug (cross with serial number of motor to make sure right one and gap)

and start pulling
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:37 AM   #9
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Ok, so it's a 7.5 as Top-Water indicated. Pics attached. The previous owner who gifted the motor to my son has messaged me, and L'il Buddy is currently finishing a neighbor's landscaping job, which will give him the money to get what he needs for it, so we're moving forward!

If anyone has a site to share that would have mix, spark plug, etc. info I'd be grateful.Name:  20200730_093155.jpg
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:08 AM   #10
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Mercury / Merc 75 from about 1976 Takes takes the newer more common fuel connector.

I think you can get a new tank and primer bulb from wal-mart for about $75.00 (just bought all this stuff a few weeks ago.) If the motor has not been used in a while it is going to more than likely need a carb rebuild and a water pump. However if it was used recently .... and had treated fuel in it ....... it might start with fresh fuel. (Don't forget to have the fuel vent open on the tank.)

This is where you have to start. If the original metal tank has any rust in it not worth trying to fix.

Spec's

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Old 07-30-2020, 10:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Top-Water View Post
Mercury / Merc 75 from about 1976 Takes takes the newer more common fuel connector.

I think you can get a new tank and primer bulb from wal-mart for about $75.00 (just bought all this stuff a few weeks ago.) If the motor has not been used in a while it is going to more than likely need a carb rebuild and a water pump. However if it was used recently .... and had treated fuel in it ....... it might start with fresh fuel. (Don't forget to have the fuel vent open on the tank.)

This is where you have to start. If the original metal tank has any rust in it not worth trying to fix.

Spec's

Thanks, Top. It's a fairly new plastic tank, so that's good. The previous owner said he'd run it out of gas when finishing for the season, and he's never had a problem starting it again in spring, so I'm hoping the carb is good.

What mix do I need to use? My plan is to throw it on the boat with some fresh fuel and see how it goes.

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Old 07-30-2020, 10:29 AM   #12
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Default Go for it

As the former owner, that's what I would do - get some gas, bolt it on, and see what happens.

Good luck!
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Thanks, Top. It's a fairly new plastic tank, so that's good. The previous owner said he'd run it out of gas when finishing for the season, and he's never had a problem starting it again in spring, so I'm hoping the carb is good.

What mix do I need to use? My plan is to throw it on the boat with some fresh fuel and see how it goes.

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It will more than likely run with very little fixing if it was last run as you claim.

Fuel mixture ,,,,,,,, it's either 40 or 50 to one , call someone I forget on that year motor. I think it is 50 to 1

If it runs ?????

EDIT ............. learn to check the lower unit oil level. Do not overlook keeping up with this on a daily basis (at first) especially on this older motor. About $5.00 in maintenance can save hundreds in repair costs if you keep up with this task until you have faith in the motor that it is not leaking.
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Old 07-30-2020, 06:08 PM   #14
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Grabbing the fuel and oil tomorrow. Does octane level matter? I run super in all my 2-stroke garden machines but don't know about the outboard.

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Old 07-30-2020, 06:56 PM   #15
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Think the oil/fuel mixture is 50:1 , octane doesn't really matter in a motor like that - not like this is a high performance high compression engine.

I'd also consider putting some seafoam in the first tank of gas, if there is any crud in the fuel system that will clean it out good.

Wouldn't replace a thing unless there is a need to.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Does octane level matter?
No ... it's a low compression ratio engine so it will not matter.
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:18 AM   #17
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No go this morning after fresh fuel/oil/Seafoam. First thing to check? The primer bulb was filling, and it appeared to be getting fuel, so I'm thinking a spark plug and maybe a little starting fluid?

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Old 08-01-2020, 09:28 AM   #18
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Start here checking for spark. Try to get a second person to help with this test. (so you do not have to pull and look at the same time) You are going to have to look very closely so having two people in daylight can help. Note as you look at this motor it is a newer model. But the spark test is the same. Be careful you do not zap your self. At 40 thousand + volts it is going to hurt but wont kill you if your in good health. Amperage is what kills with electricity.

If you can get it to run even for 15 - 20 seconds it will help steer you towards the next step.

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The primer bulb was filling, and it appeared to be getting fuel,
One step at a time .......... you have fuel in the primer bulb only ....... after the spark test you have to make sure that the carburetor is getting fuel.



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Old 08-01-2020, 09:54 AM   #19
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This...^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:19 AM   #20
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Soooo, it appears that someone here in my camp knows motors. We tried some starting fluid and it didn't "pop," so I'm heading out to grab a couple plugs as these look dark and oily.

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Old 08-01-2020, 10:23 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Soooo, it appears that someone here in my camp knows motors. We tried some starting fluid and it didn't "pop," so I'm heading out to grab a couple plugs as these look dark and oily.

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Check for spark before you do anything else...if there’s no spark new Plugs are not going to help...

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Old 08-01-2020, 10:25 AM   #22
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Correct check for spark first.
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:45 AM   #23
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As we pause for a parts run ...... a few messages from our sponsor.

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Old 08-01-2020, 11:15 AM   #24
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As we pause for a parts run ...... a few messages from our sponsor.
Hahaha! I didn't have an 11/16" socket to pull the plugs to check for spark, so I had to run to Aubuchon. On the way, my son and I discussed options, and he decided $12 was reasonable to start with fresh plugs. On our way home with both!

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Old 08-01-2020, 11:15 AM   #25
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If no spark is observed...

Does it have a kill switch that is off?

I believe that vintage did not have a lanyard switch.

The switch is likely a spring loaded push button aka a momentary switch.

It grounds the primary wire for the coil.

A failure here is unlikely but not impossible.

To test this you can remove the wires from the back of the switch and keep them separate from each other and the metal chassis.

That will exclude the switch.
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:24 AM   #26
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Quote:
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If no spark is observed...

Does it have a kill switch that is off?

I believe that vintage did not have a lanyard switch.

The switch is likely a spring loaded push button aka a momentary switch.

It grounds the primary wire for the coil.

A failure here is unlikely but not impossible.

To test this you can remove the wires from the back of the switch and keep them separate from each other and the metal chassis.

That will exclude the switch.
There is not a lanyard kill switch. There is a button to push to stop the engine. The most recent registration sticker on the boat will indicate when the motor last ran - my guess is 2017 but I’m not positive. I have no idea when the plugs were last changed; my guess is a long time ago.
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:26 AM   #27
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But...

When you get it going, beware of the “second run” syndrome.

When a carburetor has hardened deposits from fuel that has broken down during storage the first run can sometimes be pretty good.

This leads the operator to assume he got away with not cleaning the carb.

Days later, on the second run, the gas in the carb loosens these deposits and they find their way to small passages and the motor quits... five miles out!

So the moral to the story is...

Don’t trust it for a while!

(Or just do a complete carb job in the first place)
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:30 AM   #28
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Quote:
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But...

When you get it going, beware of the “second run” syndrome.

When a carburetor has hardened deposits from fuel that has broken down during storage the first run can sometimes be pretty good.

This leads the operator to assume he got away with not cleaning the carb.

Days later, on the second run, the gas in the carb loosens these deposits and they find their way to small passages and the motor quits... five miles out!

So the moral to the story is...

Don’t trust it for a while!

(Or just do a complete carb job in the first place)
This exact thing happened with a snowblower a friend bought used a few years back...only he was in the middle of his driveway, not in the middle of a lake!

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Old 08-01-2020, 11:55 AM   #29
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Ok, so we're getting spark (and a couple shocks!). I pulled it over about a dozen times and pulled the plugs and they were dry—not getting fuel or need to pull more?

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Old 08-01-2020, 12:03 PM   #30
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Time to try a little starting fluid added into the throttle opening in the carburetor.

Now the fun begins. you are only allowed by state laws to do this a few times other counties strictly forbid this.
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Old 08-01-2020, 12:25 PM   #31
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Is there a fuel shut off valve somewhere?

Hate to say it but I think you're diving into the carbs on this one.
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Old 08-01-2020, 12:40 PM   #32
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Is there a fuel shut off valve somewhere?

Hate to say it but I think you're diving into the carbs on this one.
No fuel shut-off.
The sun has pulled overhead, so motor work has been paused for now.

Step #2, getting fuel to the system, will have to wait until after 4.

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Old 08-01-2020, 02:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
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Is there a fuel shut off valve somewhere?

Hate to say it but I think you're diving into the carbs on this one.
You might be right on this. Remember the carburetor does two things on this motor. (one) it meters the raw fuel into the combustion chambers, (two) it is also a fuel pump that gets the fuel out of the tank and lines into the carburetor bowl by way of a little diaphragm pump set up that relies on the natural pulses of the two cycle engine to move the fuel.

If it was used just a few years ago, we might get surprised that it will just run. Getting it to run for a few moments is key right now.

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Old 08-01-2020, 06:12 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Is there a fuel shut off valve somewhere?

Hate to say it but I think you're diving into the carbs on this one.
Little Mercury’s like that (or even the big ones of that vintage) don’t have fuel shut offs built in. They often have a fuel filter under the cowl and screens on the carburetors (one carburetor on this one) so check those. Also, all the ones I had have a diaphragm type fuel pump that uses crankcase pulsation to move the fuel. As mentioned above, the diaphragms take a set with age and rip sometimes. Easy rebuild with the right parts. If you’ve got spark and compression the third piece is fuel. You’re close!
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:35 PM   #35
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Default Outboard Motor

Just buy some "motor muffs" for 10 bucks on Amazon. You attach them to the lower unit and a garden hose and your good to run the motor as long as you want. Or you can fill a garbage can full of water!
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Old 08-02-2020, 11:08 AM   #36
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Updates to come today...

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Old 08-02-2020, 11:25 AM   #37
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As we patiently wait for updates a message from our competitors. Please behave yourselves ....... no lubrication needed this motor is a four stroke.


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Old 08-02-2020, 11:43 AM   #38
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Before I post any further, a word of thanks to forum member Garcia, who gifted the vessel and outboard to my son, and 8gv, who spent the morning showing me and L'il Buddy how two-stroke engines work.

Webmaster, I hope you find solace from the criticisms in THESE types of connections.

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Old 08-02-2020, 01:18 PM   #39
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It's ALIVE!!!
https://youtu.be/eax0OH3rifg

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Old 08-02-2020, 01:38 PM   #40
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A kid's dream!

So, what did it?
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Old 08-02-2020, 01:42 PM   #41
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It's ALIVE!!!
https://youtu.be/eax0OH3rifg

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That’s great! If he has 1/10 the fun I and my kids had with it, he’ll have a lifetime of memories.
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Old 08-02-2020, 03:26 PM   #42
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A kid's dream!

So, what did it?
It was a stuck needle thingy in the bowl doohickey. Everything else seemed tight, and we used it for over an hour today, including to Blanchard Island to wait out the rain!

8gv took us step-by-step through troubleshooting, which was pretty awesome.

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Old 08-02-2020, 05:39 PM   #43
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Quote:
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It was a stuck needle thingy in the bowl doohickey. Everything else seemed tight, and we used it for over an hour today, including to Blanchard Island to wait out the rain!

8gv took us step-by-step through troubleshooting, which was pretty awesome.

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Keep startron fuel stabilizer in the fuel at all times and you will most likely never have a problem with the carb getting gummed up again, IMHO.
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Old 08-03-2020, 04:14 AM   #44
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Quote:
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It was a stuck needle thingy in the bowl doohickey. Everything else seemed tight, and we used it for over an hour today, including to Blanchard Island to wait out the rain!

8gv took us step-by-step through troubleshooting, which was pretty awesome.

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As Think mentioned in post #38- this blows the criticisms away!

Glad is wasn't the farfignewton (urban dictionary)!
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