Battery Recommendations Needed Quick

[AC2717]

Hi All
I have a 1995 Four Winns 240 Horizon with a ford 5.8 in it, Volvo Penta drive
guy I bought it from had a Exide Nautical Deep cycle battery in it didn't last too long as with the rain the past two weeks, the blidge killed the battery and a charge will only recover it for a little and then by the end of the day just sitting on the dock (no draw off the battery from the boat itself) it needs a charge again, said battery was a year old, I doubt it

long and short this is what the boat has in it now:

Exide - 27MDC
550 CCAs
675 MCAs
Reserve Capacity Minutes at 25amps - 182
Amp hour Capacity at 20 hour - 105

was looking at

Optima 8027-127 D27M
800 CCAs
1000 MCAs
Reserve Capacity Minutes at 25amps at 80 degrees - 140
did not give Amp hour Capacity at 20 hour

thoughts and any other battery recommendations have to order right away

[Woodsy]

I run the standard car batteries in my Donzi... Bought them from Walmart. 5 year warranty...

I tell you why....

1. Deep cycle is better... But we are on a lake not the ocean. The batteries usually don't get drawn down too far unless you have a leak or have a radio with amps. You can get a good battery tender trickle charger to keep them charged up for $40.

2. Deep cycle batteries do not seem to last as long as the regular car batteries.. I was replacing my deep cycle batteries on average every 2 years... I get 4 out of the car batteries

3. They say "You need marine for vibration".. No offense to them, but boats don't really vibrate that much... and while yes, there is an occasional jolt, its nothing worse than hitting a pothole in your car.

My Donzi takes 2 Group 27 batteries... They are pretty rugged and seem to hold up well. They are priced similar to the Deep Cylce, but they have a better warranty and seem to last longer in my application....

Woodsy

[AC2717]

I should also add the boat only has one Battery,

being told that a regular marine starting battery would be fine which I think is possible? and no need to get a deep cycle???

the Exide at 27MDC group, I would expect it is a group 27 deep cycle

we do tend to sand bar more than driving around stock radio system in it, no fridge,
don't know what to do

[Charlie T]

I've had great luck with Sears Diehard marine batteries. I"ve had my current boat for 10 years, I purchased a pair new when I got the boat and I"ve only replaced one in that 10 year timeframe. I don't do all the things I know I should like take them out and trickle charge over the winter, They stay in the boat out in the weather all winter long with no charging.

For what I paid and the service I've received I have no complaints at all with Sears Diehards.

[AC2717]

Originally Posted by Charlie T

I've had great luck with Sears Diehard marine batteries. I"ve had my current boat for 10 years, I purchased a pair new when I got the boat and I"ve only replaced one in that 10 year timeframe. I don't do all the things I know I should like take them out and trickle charge over the winter, They stay in the boat out in the weather all winter long with no charging.

For what I paid and the service I've received I have no complaints at all with Sears Diehards.

Marine Starting battery or Deep Cycle?

[Woodsy]

I forgot to mention... most Deep Cycle batteries only come with a 1 year warranty....


Woodsy

[Rich]

Maybe consider a 'dual purpose' battery, they are sort of half way between a starting battery and a deep cycle battery.

[4Fun]

I have 4 seasons on a Walmart battery and it's doing fine. Can sit for 3 weeks and starts the boat just fine. I think the key is to keep it on a battery tender over the winter. Long periods of no charging will kill it in a couple years.

Mine was the more expensive marine battery from the Walmart in Gilford.

[Slickcraft]

We have a mid console Whaler with a bilge pump that we often leave on the island. Lots of rain killed the battery. Rescued by neighbor isoot308 who offered an unused solar battery tender. Works great, stays on all the time. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender.../dp/B004Q83TGO

[ITD]

Something doesn't sound right. I would get the battery you have now load tested. I would also make sure the charging system in your boat is working correctly and make sure that there isn't something draining the battery other than the bilge pump. And that you don't have a leak. I'd hate to see you spend big bucks on a battery and have the same problem.

[camp guy]

I think ITD may be on to something by suggesting checking other possible problems. Also, the idea of a battery tender is very smart.

If your home docking system would allow you to have a small shore power system for your boat you could rest comfortably knowing your bilge pump is on duty while you are away, and, if there should be a power failure, your fully-charged battery can step in and help out.

Having great neighbors is a wonderful help.

[Charlie T]

Originally Posted by AC2717

Marine Starting battery or Deep Cycle?

Marine Starting is what I own.

[VitaBene]

Originally Posted by Slickcraft

We have a mid console Whaler with a bilge pump that we often leave on the island. Lots of rain killed the battery. Rescued by neighbor isoot308 who offered an unused solar battery tender. Works great, stays on all the time. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender.../dp/B004Q83TGO

Dan is a great guy... his island glass is in a place of honor at my house!

[AC2717]

Finally got a chance to update
So spoke to four winns this afternoon
Boat was delivered back in 95 with an interstate group 29 with at least 800 CCAs and was dual purpose (found out that most deep cycles are dual purpose)
So battery on the boat is way under powered.
Also not to use a gel or agm type (like optima)

Probably will go to Walmart and get the everstart maxx group 29 (Johnson controls makes both everstart and interstate) $99 ant two year warranty vs interstate at $129 or so with only one year warrenty

Definitely don't have a leak and no draw I do have a switch that shuts everything off but the bilge and was checked along with making sure the the bilge is not stuck on

Also I run a solar battery trickle charger on the battery which was hooked up in May on it
Can't speak for the winter purchased in May

[8gv]

+1 on the solar charger.

I use these on two boats and a spare car. They work well.

On the boats I've added fuse protection to them in case the wires get compromised.

[TiltonBB]

I have always understood that a charged battery will not freeze, and a good battery will not lose much of it's charge over the winter.

For the winter, I disconnect the cables on mine even though I have a shut off switch, and I leave them in the boat.

My batteries are 6 years old and in May all I did was reconnect them and the boat started right up. I was prepared to put he charger on but there was no need.

[Blue Thunder]

Originally Posted by AC2717

Finally got a chance to update
So spoke to four winns this afternoon
Boat was delivered back in 95 with an interstate group 29 with at least 800 CCAs and was dual purpose (found out that most deep cycles are dual purpose)
So battery on the boat is way under powered.
Also not to use a gel or agm type (like optima)

Probably will go to Walmart and get the everstart maxx group 29 (Johnson controls makes both everstart and interstate) $99 ant two year warranty vs interstate at $129 or so with only one year warrenty

Definitely don't have a leak and no draw I do have a switch that shuts everything off but the bilge and was checked along with making sure the the bilge is not stuck on

Also I run a solar battery trickle charger on the battery which was hooked up in May on it
Can't speak for the winter purchased in May

I've done it all over the years including spending the ridiculous money on an Optima AGM. I have the best luck with the Walmart EVERSTART Maxx battery. (I'm not a Walmart guy)

[BroadHopper]

Interstate from the NAPA store. Both 7 years old and doing well on its 8th year! Both were submerged at one time when the bilge pump died (pump was 30 years old). Recharged both batteries with an 'intelligent' battery charger and they were good to go.

Every fall I store the batteries in the cellar. Top off with distilled water and in the spring, trickle charge the batteries before installation.

The two batteries prior to these were 15 years old when they died. I must be pretty lucky as many people claim on 3 to 5 years on their batteries.

[Downeast]

Originally Posted by AC2717

Hi All
I have a 1995 Four Winns 240 Horizon with a ford 5.8 in it, Volvo Penta drive
guy I bought it from had a Exide Nautical Deep cycle battery in it didn't last too long as with the rain the past two weeks, the blidge killed the battery and a charge will only recover it for a little and then by the end of the day just sitting on the dock (no draw off the battery from the boat itself) it needs a charge again, said battery was a year old, I doubt it

long and short this is what the boat has in it now:

Exide - 27MDC
550 CCAs
675 MCAs
Reserve Capacity Minutes at 25amps - 182
Amp hour Capacity at 20 hour - 105

was looking at

Optima 8027-127 D27M
800 CCAs
1000 MCAs
Reserve Capacity Minutes at 25amps at 80 degrees - 140
did not give Amp hour Capacity at 20 hour

thoughts and any other battery recommendations have to order right away

Hi for what it is worth.. not trying to just add my 2 cents but I have learned a bit about batteries over the years from working in the industry, taking classes ..attending seminars .. After listening to a rep from Mastervolt for two hours .. and managing to not fall asleep in class..


If you want a very good AGM battery I would definitely recommend Lifeline. Another top-notch battery is Trojan.

As per some of the other comments, yes make sure you resolve issues before spending money on new batteries, good or bad quality.

One bad battery in the bank when brought online with a combiner or switch will drag the whole bank down.

For starters make sure nothing is on when your battery switches are off except for minimal 24 hour circuits such as auto float switch, stereo memory etc.

Many smaller bowrider power boats of the earlier years out there do not have a battery switch and therefore all DC circuits are basically 24 hour. This is not the case with every boat however.

Keep every battery in your banks of like kind such as wet gel or AGM and similar age.

The battery charger should be connected directly to the batteries regardless of the battery switch. And yes with a fuse. A multiple output battery charger is advisable, more simple and cost-effective, however you may distribute charger output via a diode or a charging relay. The latter suggestion will not allow the battery charger two sense voltage given you are using a three-step charger,and the diode will loose some voltage. just the nature of an isolator. however a quality expensive isolator will loose minimal.

Two batteries with your single engine boat is plenty sufficient. Pay mind to the condition of the terminals on the back of the battery switch as well. Many switches used out there are old and only safely pass 250-350 intermittent amps. (IE orange perko 1/2/all) A good switch with tinned terminals and 5/16' studs is sufficient.

I would invest, given all of your cables are clean and properly sized and fastened to their respective points, AGM 31 series batteries to give you the largest reserve capacity when at a mooring or at anchor.

Be certain you set your alternator and your battery charger for AGM style batteries. Same goes as if you were using gel. If I remember correctly gel batteries must not be charged greater than 13.8 voltage.

Additionally if I remember correctly AGM batteries and lead acid batteries can charge at the normal rate of 14.4.

14.4 is typical internally regulated alternator output. and cannot be changed if i recall.

Unless you have an external regulator that can be programmed I would stick with batteries capable of 14.4 voltage such as an AGM or wet.

Gel batteries are great however it is not necessary to utilize their feature of fast recharge times in you application. Additionally gel batteries are more susceptible and a bit more fussy regarding charging voltage.

I would go with AGM batteries. they can be mounted in any position they do not have as much sensitivity to vibration and plate degradation issues and are just much cleaner. forget the wet battery. a hassle to monitor electrolite.

Additionally they do not gas off as much when charged at a higher current rate compared to wet batteries.

A safe charge rate is 20% of a batteries AH capacity.

This is typically why many off-the-shelf battery chargers are only 10 to 15 A because the majority of a group 24 through group 31 batteries have an AH capacity roughly between 70 and 130 AH.

In your boat I would by 2 31series AGM batteries and a nice upgraded three-step two-output battery charger.

Take every single circuit, except for the necessary 24 hour circuits, and put them on a common side of your battery switch (1/2/both) Install a master fuse sized to the ampacity of the wire feeding the distribution as close as possible to the source.

Place each output of the charger on each of your two batteries directly with the recommended fuse.

At the end of each season fully charge all batteries and disconnect one of the terminals many boatyards do not do this because there are way too many boats and it takes too much time and there are usually a Bazillion terminals on customers batteries.

In a perfect world there should be few connections at the batteries and any other connections needed to be made should be attached through a common busbar instead of having multiple connections at the battery itself or behind the battery switch itself. This all takes hardware needed to be purchased it is expensive and it adds up this is possibly why many boats out there do not have this for costs can rise when purchasing all of these busbars terminal strips etc..

Another common thing I find frequently is the wire used in many boats is not tinned and therefore moisture eventually wicks into the wire further degrading it's conductivity and therefore raises current. When voltage drops current rises. This is very important as to why all connections need to be cleaned, free of corrosion , tinned wire and tinned terminals, and heat shrinked with glue prevents future corrosion and lengthens cleanliness and continuity integrity.


Tinned wire intend terminals are not as important on the lake however spending very little time in the salt air it will become extremely important. Even a damp bilge in the lake can produce corrosion quite quickly. . At the least , spray connections with an anti-corrosion film.

And yes batteries will not freeze and burst when properly charged the acid to water ratio is why batteries burst when frozen. Keep all batteries charged and you will reduce the sulfation on the plates over time thus that is why many batteries can last very long.

Letting a discharged battery sit overnight time after time will ruin the battery. very rarely can you bring a destroyed battery back to life using an equalization feature on certain battery chargers.

The equalization process is quite simple but many chargers do not have that feature.

If you do not want to spend the money on AGM batteries I would at least look into a 27 or a 31 series wet battery.

Being docked without any power a 27 or 31 will give you just that much more reserve capacity.

You do not need a starting the battery per se for your gas engine. Many deep cycle batteries will put out at least 500 cranking amps when fully charged.

The optima Bluetop battery is great glass mat battery and they have cranking amp capability over 1000 however their reserve capacity is not hugely any larger than a good quality wet 27 or 31 series. About 100 AH roughly.

If you want larger reserve capacity put 2 of them in parallel or buy a single 4D or if you really feel like it an 8D

Do not be so much concerned about cranking amp capability for your gas engine it will start perfectly fine with a deep cycle battery as I said before many almost all series 24 27 31 series will produce at least 500-700 CAs.

In my opinion stick with like batteries of like style and use a quality three-step charger that has the ability to independently charge each battery.

Sorry for the very long reply I hope this makes sense.

As for what I said about cranking amp capability if you were trying to start a six cylinder diesel engine then yes I would probably not install a 24 series battery I would look at something like a 4D or an 8D with cranking amp capability closer to 1200 - 1800 passing through 2/0--4/0 wire. A Lifeliine 8D AGM will produce on average 1500 and yes I have seen some put out 1800! Not necessarry for a low compression gas motor, nor do most battery switches have that kind of intermittent current rating.

[ishoot308]

All great info from Downeast!

For a fantastic battery with a ton of reserve power at a great price, check out this Duracell marine battery at Sams Club.

http://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-ag...gm/prod3590232

They are absolutely awesome for the money!

Dan

[HomeWood]

It never hurts to have one of those jump packs with you. I would carry one on a one battery boat. I never did with my bass boat. I had my starting battery go dead suddenly, so I just switched my deep cycle or "trolling motor" battery over and good to go. Long road trips and I bring the jump pack.

[Aqua-andy]

If you are looking for a good battery I would suggest Delco. As far as standard batteries (not talking AGM) there are only about three companies in the world that manufacture them with Johnson being the largest. No mater where the battery come from no matter the name on on the tag it will be made by one of two manufacturers. Delco makes there own batteries in there own factories. I have worked in automotive dealers for 20 years and Delco is the only battery that stands the test of time. Yes, no matter the brand you can have one that lasts 10 years or 10 minutes but in my experience Delcos have the lowest failure rates of all the brands I have seen.

[Lakeboater]

Originally Posted by ishoot308

All great info from Downeast!

For a fantastic battery with a ton of reserve power at a great price, check out this Duracell marine battery at Sams Club.

http://www.awntech.com/xcart/pdf/Man...alog2013-2.pdf

They are absolutely awesome for the money!

Dan

Dan
That PDF was an awning catalog not batteries.
That is one beautiful boat. Congratulations.

[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by Lakeboater

Dan
That PDF was an awning catalog not batteries.
That is one beautiful boat. Congratulations.

Oops sorry about that! I just changed the link...

Dan