Trailer damage - Launch nightmare !

[bigdog]

Had a scary launch experience, and trailer damage Sunday at Gilford Town docks…….

Launched boat w/o issue, then hauled trailer up to parking area. Tied up boat at dock, and left my grandson to watch, while I parked trailer. As to I was walking away from trailer, I stopped and stared at trailer. I was shocked to see, one of my top bunk supports was missing, GONE ! Only think showing was the steel support stanchions which supports the bunk, at either end.

Now frantic and in a panic, I’m thinking that the steel support stanchions had punctured the boat hull. Running back from the trailer parking area to the docks, I’m picturing my boat sinking. Got back to the boat and immediately turned on the bilge pump, no water coming out, that’s good !

Now still concerned about boat damage, I moved the boat away from drop-off area to outside dock, into shallow water, where I could inspect for damage under the hull. As soon as I moved boat, the trailer bunk-board, popped out from under hull. Put on my mask & snorkel and jumped into water. Now my concern, that I was going to get hit by another boat trying to dock, and get chewed up by a propeller, YIKES ! Surveyed boat hull, TG no damage to hull from steel support stanchion, not a scratch!

Walked back to trailer, and wondering how the heck and I going to haul out boat. “Not on this trailer” ! Walked down to Glendale Marine (GM) onsite at docks. GM Owner and worker surveyed trailer damage, which was beyond their repair. They also saw that bunk-board on other side was also rusted out and not too far behind same replacement. GM Owner indicated that the bunk stanchion would need to be welded to repair. GM doesn’t do welding repairs but sends their work out to a guy named ‘Al’, who runs his own welding shop, located in Laconia, I think near airport? They said 'Al' was the best welder around?

Being Labor Day W/E I didn’t have a lot of options….. GM pulled my boat out of water and put on storage rack. Charged me for a haul & launch fee $. Family decided to just go ahead and not waste a good day boating on the water, we spent several hours cruising and tubing……. Why not, I could cry or have some fun ! Decided on the latter……

Returned to docks after boating, and GM pulled boat, put covers on boat, and placed on storage rack outside. I instructed GM to send trailer to welder for repairs, which cannot start until Tues. after the holiday. They figured it could take a few hours to repair, still unsure of estimate?
Going to have both outter bunk-boards brackets replaced and re-welded..

Anyone ever had a similar experience with trailer bunk damage as described? Did you have welding performed? Cost? And last, has anyone heard of this welding guy mentioned ‘Al’, who runs his own business? Would like to know more info. if you can share.

That was my Sunday !

[XCR-700]

Tough break,,, but glad to see you were in control of the matter and didn't let ruin your day either.

Most of the brackets your are talking about that I have seen were bolted on and were replacable. Below are some examples:

http://www.easternmarine.com/Boat-Tr...kets-Hardware/

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com..._bunk_brackets

Good luck.

[jst_4_kiks]

First off, that's a hard break for a good day of boating.

Glad you were still able to go and enjoy the lake.

1st I would check to see if the metal support are accutally rusted away/broken off. 95% of the time when I have sseen trailler bunks floting is because tje hardware to attach them to the trailer failed/boards rotted out. Check the metal flanges on the trailer when the boards go. If them seem solid it may just be as simple as reattaching them with. Stainless hardware.

Now before you assume that the hardware failed, check the under side of the bunks where they are attached. If the boards were not pt (pressure treated) then they will rot and have another reason to fall off. Get new pt boards, remove carpet from old bunks (if in good shape, if not time for new bunk carpet), attach carpet with stainless steel staples, then attach bunks to trailer with stainless bolts/screws.

If the metal supports are on the trailer are bad, then they need to be cut and welded on new ones. Or if you are handy, make your own brackets from 3/8" or 1/4" steel. Weld them on the trailer. Prime with self etching prime, paint with rust oleum paint, then attach boards with stainless hardware.

It may cost a few hundred dollars to fix. Not exactly sure. More or less is posible.

As for al the welder, many different places in laconia area that weld.

Good luck

[Lakepilot]

Don't know if it's the same guy, b ut I've had welding done by the folks across from Fays (as well as other areas) and the price has always been very reasonable. Welding just isn't that expensive.

[Blue Thunder]

BD,

I've seen this happen to two different trailers in the past year. They were late 80's, early 90's vintage trailers. One was galvy and the other was steel/painted. Bunk trailers became very popular in the mid 80's and beyond as they were much cheaper to manufacture and boat dealers were having them made to fit their products, particularly Four Winns.

BT

[Rusty]

Is this the same trailer that you posted about in another thread? If it is I guess you had more issues with the trailer than just a flat tire.

Here is the thread: Flat tire

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by jst_4_kiks

First off, that's a hard break for a good day of boating.

Glad you were still able to go and enjoy the lake.

1st I would check to see if the metal support are accutally rusted away/broken off. 95% of the time when I have sseen trailler bunks floting is because tje hardware to attach them to the trailer failed/boards rotted out. Check the metal flanges on the trailer when the boards go. If them seem solid it may just be as simple as reattaching them with. Stainless hardware.

Now before you assume that the hardware failed, check the under side of the bunks where they are attached. If the boards were not pt (pressure treated) then they will rot and have another reason to fall off. Get new pt boards, remove carpet from old bunks (if in good shape, if not time for new bunk carpet), attach carpet with stainless steel staples, then attach bunks to trailer with stainless bolts/screws.

If the metal supports are on the trailer are bad, then they need to be cut and welded on new ones. Or if you are handy, make your own brackets from 3/8" or 1/4" steel. Weld them on the trailer. Prime with self etching prime, paint with rust oleum paint, then attach boards with stainless hardware.

It may cost a few hundred dollars to fix. Not exactly sure. More or less is posible.

As for al the welder, many different places in laconia area that weld.

Good luck

This is all very good advice and I have to say that I too have seen far more failed hardware and rotted boards that the bolts just pulled through than actual failed metal brackets.

Not saying it cannot happen, just that I have seen far more of what "jst_4_kiks" describbed.

kudos to jst_4_kiks for some spot on tips!

Best of luck.

[jmen24]

Originally Posted by jst_4_kiks

.....If the boards were not pt (pressure treated) then they will rot and have another reason to fall off. .....

Parsed by me.

Just a clearifier, as I hear this all the time. PT (pressure treated) lumber will rot. Pressure treating is a process applied to standard KD lumber to help resist insect and fungal damage due establishment within the wood. Rotting occurs under conditions that do not allow the wood to dry quickly (carpet attached to the bunks or sitting directly on dirt, as an example).

Now granted, PT rots much slower than KD, but that is only because the composition of the wood has changed (the open wood fibers are no longer so open), caused by the pressure injection of heavy metals and other chemicals.

Carry on.

[Geneva Point]

There's a blacksmith on Rte 104 near the 104 diner. He's very talented with reasonable rates. His name is Normand Pinette. Here's his e-mail address: theblksmith@yahoo.com

[jst_4_kiks]

Originally Posted by jmen24

Parsed by me.

Just a clearifier, as I hear this all the time. PT (pressure treated) lumber will rot. Pressure treating is a process applied to standard KD lumber to help resist insect and fungal damage due establishment within the wood. Rotting occurs under conditions that do not allow the wood to dry quickly (carpet attached to the bunks or sitting directly on dirt, as an example).

Now granted, PT rots much slower than KD, but that is only because the composition of the wood has changed (the open wood fibers are no longer so open), caused by the pressure injection of heavy metals and other chemicals.

Carry on.

I'm not saying pt wood will not rot. Pt takes a lot longer then regular pine 2x4's to rot. Have replaced enough pine decking at my dads house and on boat trailers to just use pt wood on everything.

Also to slow the process even more when using pt on boat trailers, I have coated the entire board with atleast 4 heavy coats of a quality decking stain/waterproofer before attaching the carpet and attaching the boards/bunks to the trailer. Just gives it that little bit extra protection from being dunked in the lake numerous times when launching or hauling boats.

Good luck bigdog in the trailer repair.

[chillininnh]

The "AL" he's referring to owns East Coast Welding, the phone number is 293-8384. They are located across the street from the Gilford Yacht Club on RT11 near Glendale. The folks over there are excellent!!!

[John A. Birdsall]

just got a news note from PA, picture of a pontoon boat upside down with the trailer wheels high in the air. Driver was a little drunk aledgedly and tried to outrun the police when his trailor tipped over smashing the pontoon boat.

[bigdog]

First.. I also want to give big kudos to “jst_4_kiks” for his valuable tips !

“jst_4_kiks” has help me many times in the past.. No ‘bailed me out’ of several boat mechanical issues in the past. He is a marine tech by trade, and a very good one. This is not an advertisement, just a fact !
I have used him as my marine mechanic, and would have no problem recommending him to anybody needing marine service on their boats.

Now, to provide an update for all, about the “trailer damage”

Just some background about trailer:
1995 Painted Steel ‘Bunk’ trailer
Bunks were found to be made from ‘pine’ wood:
4 Bunks (2 under keel, 2 outside)
Boat: 20’ Bowrider
Boat & Trailer looks similar to a ‘FourWinns’. In fact the Four-Winns trailer version looks almost identical.

Boat & trailer was used in salt water for first 5+ years. 1995-2000. Trailer was in and out of salt-water during this time. Salt-water itself, I suspect creates issues with metal fatigue. Prior owner to my knowledge, did no trailer maintenance. Since I’ve owned the trailer, I’ve changed bearing-buddies, sanded and painted metal surfaces, and updated lights. Bunk inspection wasn’t performed….. Lessons learned !

Responses to Forum members:

Jst_4_Kiks
Metal brackets/flanges were broken off entirely from vertical stanchion support. Totally rusted out ! Bunk board material is made of pine not PT. The bolts pulled through the bracket flanges into bunk-board, were totally ripped out. Upon inspection the other ‘upper’ bunk- board was also poor condition, and just a matter of time, before that also would break and fail.

Blue Thunder
You described these trailers perfectly:
“Early 90's vintage trailers. were manufacture cheaper by manufacture and boat dealers were having them made to fit their products, particularly Four Winns”. Mmmmmm, there’s that brand name again…. THey must have a history of these type issues?

Rusty
To answer your question…. “YES” this is the same trailer from other Forum Post “flat tire”. That issue was solved by replacing both ‘original’ tires with new radial tires. Tires run quiet and smoooooooooooth !
 
Chillininnh
You’re correct, the welder is “East Coast Welding”. Boat was delivered there for repairs.

End of story was as jst_4_kiks suggested
Metal bracket/flange supports on the trailer were bad, they were cut off from support stanchions, and news ones welded on. This was done for both outer (upper) bunks. Both bunk -boards were replaced with new PT wood. Was able to salvage the bunk carpeting for bunk-boards.

Situation could have been a lot worse……..
Trailer damage could have punctured the boat hull, when launching, or I could have been hauling boat down I-93 at 70MPH and had boat launch off the trailer ! That said, I consider myself lucky, that no one got hurt, and no major damage.

Although, this ended up as a costly repair, I did get to spend a quality day on the Lake, with the family, and take my grandson ‘tubing’. The smile on his face that day was worth all the trouble and expense.... Priceless !

Going to pickup boat/trailer this w/e.

Thanks everyone for your repsonses, greatlly apprecaited !

BD

[jst_4_kiks]

Originally Posted by bigdog

First.. I also want to give big kudos to “jst_4_kiks” for his valuable tips !

“jst_4_kiks” has help me many times in the past.. No ‘bailed me out’ of several boat mechanical issues in the past. He is a marine tech by trade, and a very good one. This is not an advertisement, just a fact !
I have used him as my marine mechanic, and would have no problem recommending him to anybody needing marine service on their boats.

Situation could have been a lot worse……..
Trailer damage could have punctured the boat hull, when launching, or I could have been hauling boat down I-93 at 70MPH and had boat launch off the trailer ! That said, I consider myself lucky, that no one got hurt, and no major damage.

BD

Glad that I have been able to service your boat for your enjoyment on the lake. As for anyone else in the area that needs service, has questions while working on their own boat, or just general advise don't hesitate to PM me for more information.

As for the boat trailer, at least it was able to be fixed. If that would of happened on the road, it would of been a big mess. Most-likely have damaged your boat hull.