Need snow shoveled from roof

[oldman]

My cousin recently purchased a home on Meredith bay and is concerned about having someone lined up to shovel the snow from the roof should we get a lot of snow this winter. Can anyone give a recommendation of someone in Meredith who is honest and reliable to do this?

[songkrai]

Originally Posted by oldman

My cousin recently purchased a home on Meredith bay and is concerned about having someone lined up to shovel the snow from the roof should we get a lot of snow this winter. Can anyone give a recommendation of someone in Meredith who is honest and reliable to do this?

Seeking a one time after a big storm?
When that happens, many are seeking the same.

If home was constructed correctly then there should be no issues.
Just make sure homeowners policy is current and up to date.
And have insurance agent read the part that covers the roof and interior contents.

I know of no one that rakes such.
Your best bet might be to contact some of the landscape companies.
Some/many do plowing in winter. You might be able to set something up ahead of time.

Also, there are independent contractors that do property management. You could try one of those. I do not have names but I have seen the pickup trucks around the Lakes Region.

Welcome to the Winnipesaukee Forum.

[Belmont Resident]

Originally Posted by songkrai

Seeking a one time after a big storm?
When that happens, many are seeking the same.

If home was constructed correctly then there should be no issues.
Just make sure homeowners policy is current and up to date.
And have insurance agent read the part that covers the roof and interior contents.

I know of no one that rakes such.
Your best bet might be to contact some of the landscape companies.
Some/many do plowing in winter. You might be able to set something up ahead of time.

Also, there are independent contractors that do property management. You could try one of those. I do not have names but I have seen the pickup trucks around the Lakes Region.

Welcome to the Winnipesaukee Forum.

I do this type of work during bad winters.
I disagree with hiring a landscape company. People who have no experience on roofs do not belong on roofs.
A contractor, roofing or builder can help you out or point you in the right direction. Also make sure the person you hire has insurance and has the INSURANCE company send you a binder. You can ruin a roof really quick if you do not know what your doing. You Have to start at the top and work your way down if your shoveling, with a roof rake it doesn't matter.
You can send me a message and I'd be happy to take a look at your place and give you my thoughts. I have 2 jobs I'm getting ready to start in Moultonborough so I will be passing through Meredith.
I am a painting contractor with all the experience, insurance and tools needed to do this type of work and a plow truck to move the snow out of the way once it is down.

[Winnisquamguy]

Originally Posted by songkrai

Your best bet might be to contact some of the landscape companies.

Your best bet is like BR said with a roofer...you can ruin a roof in no time if you have no clue what you are doing.I have seen it happen.

[songkrai]

The above is correct.

Inexperienced folks can easily ruin a roof.

And yes, hire someone with insurance.

All good points.

I stand corrected.

[fatlazyless]

Why don't you do like everyone else and go buy a long roof rake and just do the eaves by yourself ...... doing the eaves is all that needs to be done to keep from getting those ice dams .....which eventually can cause water back-up and water leaks. You can probably find a perfectly good roof rake at Goodwill-Laconia for just eight dollars....plus the exercise of roof-raking will probably do you some good!

[Belmont Resident]

Originally Posted by fatlazyless

Why don't you do like everyone else and go buy a long roof rake and just do the eaves by yourself ...... doing the eaves is all that needs to be done to keep from getting those ice dams .....which eventually can cause water back-up and water leaks. You can probably find a perfectly good roof rake at Goodwill-Laconia for just eight dollars....plus the exercise of roof-raking will probably do you some good!

Many times by raking just the eves on a house that has ice dam problems just moves the ice dam further up the roof. We live in an old house (1790) and this is the case with our house. Also a lot depends on the temp as to what happens with the roof.
I believe the original concern was for snow removal due to the weight not from ice problems.

[RLW]

oldman, I just noticed that you are fairly new to posting on the forum and glad you have joined us. Have fun and enjoy the Winni Forum while making many new friends. I see you are already finding some solutions to your question. Best of luck and enjoy your cousins new home.

[songkrai]

Originally Posted by Belmont Resident

Many times by raking just the eves on a house that has ice dam problems just moves the ice dam further up the roof. We live in an old house (1790) and this is the case with our house. Also a lot depends on the temp as to what happens with the roof.
I believe the original concern was for snow removal due to the weight not from ice problems.

I use the Garelick aluminum roof rack on all of my roofs. Works fine if done early after snow storm. But yes, if not done correctly or done too late ice damns just appear further up with associated water issues. A roof rake is a bit difficult for a 2 story house.

The best is to use the Grace membrane after stripping all roof materials.
Or move to the more expensive metal roof.

But I think the original question is hiring someone to shovel the entire roof after a big snow storm.

[Belmont Resident]

Originally Posted by songkrai

I use the Garelick aluminum roof rack on all of my roofs. Works fine if done early after snow storm. But yes, if not done correctly or done too late ice damns just appear further up with associated water issues. A roof rake is a bit difficult for a 2 story house.

The best is to use the Grace membrane after stripping all roof materials.
Or move to the more expensive metal roof.

But I think the original question is hiring someone to shovel the entire roof after a big snow storm.

Most 2 story houses will have no problem supporting the weight. Most of the roofs I've taken care of in past heavy snow years have been your ranch style houses. Most ranch roofs are easily walkable which makes them prime candidates for snow piling up and sticking around for a while.
We have this issue with our Maine house/camp. It has a metal roof but a it should never have had one installed. Almost flat maybe a 5 degree slope.
The big storm that dropped 18" had no wind at all so we had to drive up and shovel it. Or should I say we drove, I shoveled, she played with the new puppy.
Usually when there is any wind at all the majority of the snow blows off.
I have had the dis-pleasure of clearing a 2 story roof. To steep to walk so it was all done from a ladder using a plastic roof rake. Great upper body workout.
Unfortunately many homeowners do not understand just how labor intensive snow removal is and only see the cost, which usually means they hire whoever will do it the cheapest. Problem is they will not see those missing shingles till next spring.

[DickR]

Originally Posted by songkrai

The best is to use the Grace membrane after stripping all roof materials.

Doing that isn't necessarily best. It places a vapor barrier above the roof deck, preventing drying in that direction. Drying won't be a problem if the underside of the deck is vented, as with an unconditioned attic space or a cathedral ceiling with insulation up against insulation baffles that provide vent space. If the structure underneath is an insulated, unvented cathedral ceiling, there is no way for any incidental moisture that gets into the roof deck to dry out. However, code does call for a membrane to be applied over the bottom edges, up to a point two feet past where the wall is underneath.

More info in building unvented cathedral ceilings is here: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...hedral-ceiling

[songkrai]

Originally Posted by DickR

Doing that isn't necessarily best. It places a vapor barrier above the roof deck, preventing drying in that direction. Drying won't be a problem if the underside of the deck is vented, as with an unconditioned attic space or a cathedral ceiling with insulation up against insulation baffles that provide vent space. If the structure underneath is an insulated, unvented cathedral ceiling, there is no way for any incidental moisture that gets into the roof deck to dry out. However, code does call for a membrane to be applied over the bottom edges, up to a point two feet past where the wall is underneath.

Thanks for the link.

Venting, of course, is a crucial key to a good roof.

Some/many just don't understand how to construct a new house with proper venting.

I see many new homes now with ice/water shield (Grace) over the entire roof.

Also, some now spray a thin layer of foam on the inside of all roofs. And I don't see any venting or little venting.

Those that read my Munchkin story - the same home - built by one of the better known builders in the Lakes Region - that home had the roof leak the 2nd year. Insurance claim $8,000 for inside home. The entire roof was ultimately removed and redone. Paid for by the homeowner. House was only 3 years old.

[Belmont Resident]

Originally Posted by songkrai

Thanks for the link.

Venting, of course, is a crucial key to a good roof.

Some/many just don't understand how to construct a new house with proper venting.

I see many new homes now with ice/water shield (Grace) over the entire roof.

Also, some now spray a thin layer of foam on the inside of all roofs. And I don't see any venting or little venting.

Those that read my Munchkin story - the same home - built by one of the better known builders in the Lakes Region - that home had the roof leak the 2nd year. Insurance claim $8,000 for inside home. The entire roof was ultimately removed and redone. Paid for by the homeowner. House was only 3 years old.

Hmmm, I've also known a few contractors that have built homes the way the homeowner wanted against the contractors advice.
Yes there are a lot of so,so builders but there are a lot of homeowners who think they know best and advise the builder on how they want things done. Remember there are 2 sides to every story.

[songkrai]

Originally Posted by Belmont Resident

Hmmm, I've also known a few contractors that have built homes the way the homeowner wanted against the contractors advice.
Yes there are a lot of so,so builders but there are a lot of homeowners who think they know best and advise the builder on how they want things done. Remember there are 2 sides to every story.

Home was built on lake by by well known lake home builder. No before buyer. No resident owner. Before house was completed. House was sold after completion.

[Belmont Resident]

Originally Posted by songkrai

Home was built on lake by by well known lake home builder. No before buyer. No resident owner. Before house was completed. House was sold after completion.

I wasn't disputing your comment. I worked on the new construction home where the homeowner was the GC. Spray foam on every outside wall and ceiling, then insulation. There was a problem with the house holding water during the plaster curing time and dehumidifiers were brought in to solve this but to the best of my knowledge no other problems were encountered to date.
This house has multiple valleys all around it and holds snow all winter.
It is just shy of needing a air exchanger but no ice dams or water.
I would think that having the most insulation possible on the roof is the best option. But I'm a painter not a builder.

[DickR]

Originally Posted by Belmont Resident

.... There was a problem with the house holding water during the plaster curing time and dehumidifiers were brought in to solve this.....
....I would think that having the most insulation possible on the roof is the best option.

In both concrete and plaster curing, part of the water is tied up by chemical reaction and becomes part of the solid result. The excess water must be removed by evaporation. Ultimately, that water should be removed from the air by mechanical dehumidification or by ventilation. One should not expect or want all that moisture to go out through the walls.

Nearly all cases of ice damming at the edges of roofs are due to warmth getting to the roof surface. Much of the time this is due to heat carried by air leakage from conditioned space into the attic (vented attic) or the roof cavity in the case of a cathedral ceiling. Can lights in the upper floor ceiling are notable heat leaks, even those rated "air tight" (AT), and from a building science point of view are generally a bad idea in those locations. But any air leak that carries heat from conditioned space to the roof deck contributes to conditions that lead to ice damming.

More and more attention is being given to building science issues, and some builders have learned how to get it right, but sadly some still just build the way they've always done it. Insistent homeowners who prefer form over function also are part of the problem.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by DickR

In both concrete and plaster curing, part of the water is tied up by chemical reaction and becomes part of the solid result. The excess water must be removed by evaporation. Ultimately, that water should be removed from the air by mechanical dehumidification or by ventilation. One should not expect or want all that moisture to go out through the walls.

Nearly all cases of ice damming at the edges of roofs are due to warmth getting to the roof surface. Much of the time this is due to heat carried by air leakage from conditioned space into the attic (vented attic) or the roof cavity in the case of a cathedral ceiling. Can lights in the upper floor ceiling are notable heat leaks, even those rated "air tight" (AT), and from a building science point of view are generally a bad idea in those locations. But any air leak that carries heat from conditioned space to the roof deck contributes to conditions that lead to ice damming.

More and more attention is being given to building science issues, and some builders have learned how to get it right, but sadly some still just build the way they've always done it. Insistent homeowners who prefer form over function also are part of the problem.

You have posted some very interesting info about roof insulation and venting.


When my cathedral ceiling was built they used foam baffles the full length of the ceiling before insulation was added. The baffles channel cold and hot air to the ridge roof vent for proper ventilation. On one side the baffle goes halfway in the ridge vent and then the other side overlaps that one.
I have never had any ice damming on my roof.

[songkrai]

Originally Posted by DickR

Insistent homeowners who prefer form over function also are part of the problem.

Yes, yes, and yes.

[oldman]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I told my cousin about this thread and he has checked it out. He will make arrangements for shoveling when and if necessary. He has your info Belmont Resident. I have to think that the house will be ok since it survived this far. thanks again

[songkrai]

Originally Posted by oldman

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I told my cousin about this thread and he has checked it out. He will make arrangements for shoveling when and if necessary. He has your info Belmont Resident. I have to think that the house will be ok since it survived this far. thanks again

Well, I guess all have covered everything but the kitchen sink.

[upthesaukee]

Originally Posted by songkrai

Well, I guess all have covered everything but the kitchen sink.

...drain the water out of the trap, and replace with RV antifreeze.

[BroadHopper]

Originally Posted by DickR

In both concrete and plaster curing, part of the water is tied up by chemical reaction and becomes part of the solid result. The excess water must be removed by evaporation. Ultimately, that water should be removed from the air by mechanical dehumidification or by ventilation. One should not expect or want all that moisture to go out through the walls.

Nearly all cases of ice damming at the edges of roofs are due to warmth getting to the roof surface. Much of the time this is due to heat carried by air leakage from conditioned space into the attic (vented attic) or the roof cavity in the case of a cathedral ceiling. Can lights in the upper floor ceiling are notable heat leaks, even those rated "air tight" (AT), and from a building science point of view are generally a bad idea in those locations. But any air leak that carries heat from conditioned space to the roof deck contributes to conditions that lead to ice damming.

More and more attention is being given to building science issues, and some builders have learned how to get it right, but sadly some still just build the way they've always done it. Insistent homeowners who prefer form over function also are part of the problem.

I was building one of the 'green' homes back in 2010. I had a lot of contractors dispute RBC 2010 codes and architect/engineer specifications mostly because they had a tried and true method of building. One of them was dehumidifying the space between the roof and plastic sheeting even during the addition of insulation. This particular build is a closed system where there are no air circulation under the roof. Many contractors walk away from the project. The home is into its 3rd winter without any problems. Roof has never been raked and there are many valleys and gables.

[dpg]

Lots of times ice dams occur not because the roof wasn't "raked" but because of issues with the attic space. Attics idealy need to be very well vented through the soffits and in the winter VERY COLD! An attic should preferably average the same temperature as the outside air. When it's this cold snow will not be as likely to hit the roof and begin melting which eventually forms an ice barrier. After $15,000 worth of ice damming issues two winters ago I became very educated in this subject. Most folks attribute ice dams to the gutters backing up which does happen however a home can still have "damming" even without gutters installed.

[sky's]

Originally Posted by Belmont Resident

Hmmm, I've also known a few contractors that have built homes the way the homeowner wanted against the contractors advice.
Yes there are a lot of so,so builders but there are a lot of homeowners who think they know best and advise the builder on how they want things done. Remember there are 2 sides to every story.

BR. always remember theres this thing called EGO. EGO runs our government and sometimes peoples lifes and until you can step aside from peoples inflated EGO's then problems like this will happen. im not perfect but i will say this i have tried to keep ego out of my life and my business and i can state for a fact that it works. i stopped working for people that have huge egos. try it good luck

[tis]

There are also contractors who want to do what he wants to do not what the homeowner wants to do. It does work both ways.