Bravo 3 problems

Dave R · 01-07-2005, 01:35 PM

Looking at a used boat witha 2000 Bravo 3 drive. I hear they have severe corrosion issues but am wondering how well the work in Winnipesaukee water. Any information would be appreciated.

jeffk · 01-07-2005, 05:05 PM

I have used my Bravo 3 drive in the lake since 1994. I haven't had what I consider excessive corrosion problems or other problems that I considered unusual. Last year I noticed I was using gear lube and the propeller shaft had to be replaced due to wear. I didn't think that was too bad after 10 years but it wasn't cheap to repair (almost $3K). I like the drive. Good torque and handling.

Mee-n-Mac · 01-07-2005, 06:16 PM

We have a 2000 B3 and to date haven't seen any abnormal corrosion. (knock on wood, err, gelcoat) I believe most, though not all, complaints stemmed from use in salt water. The problem is real, just perhaps not so prevalent in Winni water. I would be more worried if the boat is to be left in a marina due to shore power leakage currents. I also heard that Mercruiser changed the B3 design in the later yr 2000 models to reduce the quantity of non-matching (galvanically speaking) metals. Perhaps the boat in question is one of the later versions ? Find out if you can and also use magnesium anodes ("zincs") in Winni waters. I'm as interested as you to see how B3's have fared here on the lake ... hoping that you'll get many responses (good or bad).

Rinkerfam · 01-07-2005, 10:16 PM

Merc. seems to have the most comprehensive anti-corrosion system of the stern drive manufacturers. They employ an active electronic anti-corrosion system called Mercathode. Newer Bravo III drives also feature an additional sacrificial anode on the anticavitation plate and on the prop-shaft. I am not sure what model year these additional anodes were introduced. Merc. also uses a multi-step paint system and ceramic coating to resist corrosion. My advice is: Make sure the anodes are zinc, inspect them for signs of deterioration (replace if necessary) and have the Mercathode checked to see if it is functioning properly. I'd be willing to bet that one of the most often overlooked maintenance items on a boat are the sacrificial anodes.

Biggus · 01-10-2005, 08:24 AM

The B3 is a pretty stout unit but the have a tendency to wear out the gimbal ring/swivel pin joint if not torqued atleast once or twice a season. Actually, I'm in the process right now of replacing the gimbal ring on a friends 2000 288 Bayliner.

Dave R · 01-11-2005, 01:38 PM

Thanks for the info folks. No longer concerned about corrosion.

Biggus, any chance some Loc-Tite would resolve the gimbal ring/swivel pin issue?

01-07-2005, 01:35 PM	#1
Dave R Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,974 Thanks: 246 Thanked 736 Times in 438 Posts	Bravo 3 problems Looking at a used boat witha 2000 Bravo 3 drive. I hear they have severe corrosion issues but am wondering how well the work in Winnipesaukee water. Any information would be appreciated.

01-07-2005, 05:05 PM	#2
jeffk Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Center Harbor Posts: 1,130 Thanks: 201 Thanked 421 Times in 239 Posts	1994 Bravo 3 drive still going strong I have used my Bravo 3 drive in the lake since 1994. I haven't had what I consider excessive corrosion problems or other problems that I considered unusual. Last year I noticed I was using gear lube and the propeller shaft had to be replaced due to wear. I didn't think that was too bad after 10 years but it wasn't cheap to repair (almost $3K). I like the drive. Good torque and handling.

01-07-2005, 06:16 PM	#3
Mee-n-Mac Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,943 Thanks: 23 Thanked 111 Times in 51 Posts	2000 B3 still OK We have a 2000 B3 and to date haven't seen any abnormal corrosion. (knock on wood, err, gelcoat) I believe most, though not all, complaints stemmed from use in salt water. The problem is real, just perhaps not so prevalent in Winni water. I would be more worried if the boat is to be left in a marina due to shore power leakage currents. I also heard that Mercruiser changed the B3 design in the later yr 2000 models to reduce the quantity of non-matching (galvanically speaking) metals. Perhaps the boat in question is one of the later versions ? Find out if you can and also use magnesium anodes ("zincs") in Winni waters. I'm as interested as you to see how B3's have fared here on the lake ... hoping that you'll get many responses (good or bad). __________________ Mee'n'Mac "Never attribute to malice that which can be explained by simple stupidity or ignorance. The latter are a lot more common than the former." - RAH

01-07-2005, 10:16 PM	#4
Rinkerfam Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 268 Thanks: 0 Thanked 14 Times in 8 Posts	Merc. seems to have the most comprehensive anti-corrosion system of the stern drive manufacturers. They employ an active electronic anti-corrosion system called Mercathode. Newer Bravo III drives also feature an additional sacrificial anode on the anticavitation plate and on the prop-shaft. I am not sure what model year these additional anodes were introduced. Merc. also uses a multi-step paint system and ceramic coating to resist corrosion. My advice is: Make sure the anodes are zinc, inspect them for signs of deterioration (replace if necessary) and have the Mercathode checked to see if it is functioning properly. I'd be willing to bet that one of the most often overlooked maintenance items on a boat are the sacrificial anodes. __________________ Education is hanging around 'til you've caught on - Frost

01-10-2005, 08:24 AM	#5
Biggus Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sebago Lake Posts: 20 Thanks: 4 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	The B3 is a pretty stout unit but the have a tendency to wear out the gimbal ring/swivel pin joint if not torqued atleast once or twice a season. Actually, I'm in the process right now of replacing the gimbal ring on a friends 2000 288 Bayliner.

01-11-2005, 01:38 PM	#6
Dave R Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,974 Thanks: 246 Thanked 736 Times in 438 Posts	Thanks for the info folks. No longer concerned about corrosion. Biggus, any chance some Loc-Tite would resolve the gimbal ring/swivel pin issue?