Electric (Tank) Water Heater Brands/Versions

[thinkxingu]

I noticed my water heater has galvanic corrosion on the inlets the other day. Given that it's 7+ years old and that I need a few other plumbing fixes, I'm planning on replacing it all at the same time.

1. Getting anything more than the single 220V wiring there is cost-prohibitive (finished basement), so an on-demand unit is almost positively out (they need multiple breakers/feeds?).

2. Because it's in a closet with a height limit and no condensate drain, a hybrid/heat-pump unit is almost positively out.

3. Given 1 & 2, I'm looking at a replacement tank. 50-gallon, as we like tubs.

Any feedback on brands? I'm looking hard at the Rheem Marathon as it has a "lifetime warranty," but the Rheem Gladiator and a few other brands are certainly options.

Thoughts?

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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I noticed my water heater has galvanic corrosion on the inlets the other day. Given that it's 7+ years old and that I need a few other plumbing fixes, I'm planning on replacing it all at the same time.

1. Getting anything more than the single 220V wiring there is cost-prohibitive (finished basement), so an on-demand unit is almost positively out (they need multiple breakers/feeds?).

2. Because it's in a closet with a height limit and no condensate drain, a hybrid/heat-pump unit is almost positively out.

3. Given 1 & 2, I'm looking at a replacement tank. 50-gallon, as we like tubs.

Any feedback on brands? I'm looking hard at the Rheem Marathon as it has a "lifetime warranty," but the Rheem Gladiator and a few other brands are certainly options.

Thoughts?

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If you have a forced hot water heat system then best to go with a storage tank that circulates off your boiler. This is not an option if you have a hot air furnace or heat pumps, which you didn't specify.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Biggd

If you have a forced hot water heat system then best to go with a storage tank that circulates off your boiler. This is not an option if you have a hot air furnace or heat pumps, which you didn't specify.

We have a full-electric house (baseboard heat).

Barring the couple assumptions I posted, it'll need to be an electric tank.

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[Merrymeeting]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Any feedback on brands? I'm looking hard at the Rheem Marathon as it has a "lifetime warranty," but the Rheem Gladiator and a few other brands are certainly options.

Thoughts?

I have a Rheem Marathon that is now 17 years old. Still works and looks like new. Never replaced a part yet. They are expensive but in my experience, certainly worth it over time.

Ours was used seasonally until 2012 but has been in year-round use since then. I got it through a special discount deal that PSNH was running at the time. Didn't cost much more than a regular tank through their program. I wouldn't hestiate to get another, though with the lifetime guarantee I'll never have to unless we move (which we don't plan on doing).

[NH.Solar]

I'll definitely second the vote for the Rheem Marathon series. They're lightweight and easy to install and everything except the electric elements has a lifetime warranty.
My heater too is quite old but has performed flawlessly in spite of some rather unusual demands. I elevated it when I installed it and have a convection loop from a coil of piping wrapped around the fluepipe from my woodstove tied into it and the water in the Marathon sometimes exceeds 160 degrees during really cold weather.

[thinkxingu]

Did y'all get those Marathons at a big-box store or through an independent contractor? I'm trying to figure out if HD's are lower-quality.

Also, I've heard two other brands today: HTP and Bradford White. Anyone?

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[TheProfessor]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

I noticed my water heater has galvanic corrosion on the inlets the other day. Given that it's 7+ years old and that I need a few other plumbing fixes, I'm planning on replacing it all at the same time.

Here. 30 gallon tank electric water heater.
Learned years ago to replace the electrodes every 1 or 2 years.
As my well water has "calcium" or whatever that white flake material is.
Simple job. That anyone can do. There is a special wrench to take off the electrodes. And any hardware store has replacement for electrodes. Be sure to turn off the water and turn off the electricity at breaker box. Drain water heater.

As to whether big box stores sell electric water heaters different than a plumbing supply company. Stop in to a plumbing supply store and obtain the model numbers of water heaters that they sell. Then compare that model number to the model number at the big box stores. There are a few plumbing supply places in Laconia and Gilford. Also obtain a paper brochure. Then read it.

Many decades ago. I replaced 2 electric water heaters. I was asked by plumber if I wanted a 5 year warranty or a 10 year warranty. I asked what was the difference between the 5/10 year water heater. The answer was nothing. Same water heater. Just pay more for water heaters to get the 10 year warranty.

Also, at plumbing supply company. Ask what brand that they sell the most of. May or may not help in your choice.

Also, the NH Electric Coop used to advertise some sort of tank electric water heater. Can't remember the brand/name.

The last time I bought tank type electric water heaters. I just went to Lowe's/Home Depot and purchased whatever they had in stock.
Over 10 years with no issues.

[Steveo]

I also have the Rheem Marathon and love it. They only thing is the way it looks. I call it my nuclear power plant or nuclear bomb.

[thinkxingu]

It looks like only two water heater brands are made without anode rods: Rheem's Marathon, which is plastic, and HTP's Everlast, which is stainless steel. Someone mentioned the heating elements for the Marathons being a little expensive, but I just saw they're something like $50. If I could get 15+ years out of whatever tank I buy, I'd be jazzed!

I'm waiting on a price for the HTP, which looks like they only work through certified installers, but may end up going Rheem and just having a reliable plumber do all the fixin'.

Thanks for your thoughts, fellas!

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[TheProfessor]

"What is the warranty on a Rheem Marathon water heater?

All elements and parts are warranted for 6 years from manufacturing date against factory defects. Units must be registered within 90 days of installation to qualify for Rheem's Limited Lifetime Warranty."

[NH.Solar]

The Marathon tank carries a lifetime warranty.
I would expect to replace an element every now and again but the job is relatively simple and shouldn't require professional help. That being said the elements in my Marathon are originals and going on twelve years old (knock on wood)

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by NH.Solar

The Marathon tank carries a lifetime warranty.
I would expect to replace an element every now and again but the job is relatively simple and shouldn't require professional help. That being said the elements in my Marathon are originals and going on twelve years old (knock on wood)

Did you notice any improvement in efficiency? I can't quite tell if the insulation/design would be an improvement over my current Kenmore.

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[NH.Solar]

I can't really say because it is the original tank installed in my home. The way the tank is built however would lend me to believe that it is very efficient. It is basically one "tupperware" tank blown inside another and then the ~3 inch void between the two tanks is foamed. Also, because of the woodstove coil connected to the Marathon the water inside the tank can get very hot but the outside of the tank still feels normal to touch. I've also found out through my solar peers that the Marathon tanks were often used for storage in thermal solar designs.

[LikeLakes]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Did you notice any improvement in efficiency? I can't quite tell if the insulation/design would be an improvement over my current Kenmore.

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Another fan of Marathon's here. I'd say yes to improvement in efficiency, I don't have numbers to back it up, but from a "regular" basic heater that felt warm outside, and that some of us would wrap with additional insulation, then to a Marathon that feel cool as N.H. Solar said, no question there is less thermal loss due to the superior construction/insulation.

[NH.Solar]

There is a sizable electical bill savings available for most of the readers of this forum that many may not be aware of, and that is the storage of hot water during off peak hour utility rates. (this carriesover to EV charging too).
To take advantage of this you will need a hot water heater that is large enought to easily meet your daily needs, in most cases 70+ gallons.
If you sign up for the late night discounted non- peak time rates the savings can amount ot 25% or more. Set your water heater to bring the stored water temp up to at least 140+ degrees during the late night discounted time rates and you will accomplish two things; your water will be sterilized, and two that cheaply heated stored water will likely carry through much of the next day. In effect your water heater willhave become a very effective form of energy storage, ie a battery, for the power you will consume anyway. The only extra item required to enable and make safe this energy savings is a mixing vlave to ensurethat your tap water doesn'r exceed 125-130 degrees, but they are realatively cheap and easily installed.
I have been living with this exact setup on my Marathon for years now and always had beaucoup hot water and thanks to my modest 8 kW roof solar array seldom see much of an electrical bill ...even with an EV, heated towel racks (yes!) and radiant floors!

[Merrymeeting]

Originally Posted by NH.Solar

That being said the elements in my Marathon are originals and going on twelve years old (knock on wood)

Also knocking on wood, my elements are the originals too, going on 19 years.

I do flush the tank once a year, and our well water is so good we could sell it.

[thinkxingu]

Awesome, thanks!

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