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Old 04-02-2018, 11:09 AM   #1
shifthappens
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Default Lakes Region Auto Mechanic?

I'm in Belmont and looking for someone who can install my rear wheel bearings and transmission cross support on my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have all the parts but cannot afford what a dealer wants to charge. Senior on social security doesn't go very far. It would be great if he is a 'freelance' mobile mechanic but if he cannot do it at my home I could come to his shop or whatever. I'm just trying to get these repairs done at a more reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any leads or suggestions.

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Old 04-02-2018, 01:11 PM   #2
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I'm in Belmont and looking for someone who can install my rear wheel bearings and transmission cross support on my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have all the parts but cannot afford what a dealer wants to charge. Senior on social security doesn't go very far. It would be great if he is a 'freelance' mobile mechanic but if he cannot do it at my home I could come to his shop or whatever. I'm just trying to get these repairs done at a more reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any leads or suggestions.
Ask the NH technical institute if they can do it for you. Hands on experience for the students but with a teacher watching!
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:31 PM   #3
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Thanks. That's a great idea but I'm not sure it would be a good idea to drive my vehicle that far (Concord). It wobbles pretty bad at times at around 45-50 mph which is why I need the rear bearings replaced as diagnosed by the dealer.
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:48 PM   #4
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Ask the NH technical institute if they can do it for you. Hands on experience for the students but with a teacher watching!
Call Lakes Region Community College and ask them. They are in Laconia. Regardless, you may need to get towed or find a friend with a trailer.
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:49 PM   #5
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Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:08 PM   #6
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Thanks. That's a great idea but I'm not sure it would be a good idea to drive my vehicle that far (Concord). It wobbles pretty bad at times at around 45-50 mph which is why I need the rear bearings replaced as diagnosed by the dealer.
I've done a lot of wheel bearings and the only time i've seen them cause a wobble is if they are so bad that the wheel is going to fall off. I think I would get a second opinion. I'm not saying they aren't bad but you may have other problems also.

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Old 04-02-2018, 04:16 PM   #7
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I've done a lot of wheel bearings and the only time i've seen them cause a wobble is if they are so bad that the wheel is going to fall off. I think I would get a second opinion. I'm not saying they aren't bad but you may have other problems also.

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The diagnosis from AutoServ in Tilton says, "Found right rear wheel bearing loose and estimate to replace axel with right rear wheel bearing $370" if that makes sense. I forgot to mention the axel because I thought they were just trying to upsell. The wobble just happened when I had to drive on a bumpy road to pay my rent. When I got out on the main road the wobble appeared. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:47 PM   #8
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I'm in Belmont and looking for someone who can install my rear wheel bearings and transmission cross support on my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I have all the parts but cannot afford what a dealer wants to charge. Senior on social security doesn't go very far. It would be great if he is a 'freelance' mobile mechanic but if he cannot do it at my home I could come to his shop or whatever. I'm just trying to get these repairs done at a more reasonable cost. Thanks in advance for any leads or suggestions.
Are the mounts that attach to the cross support OK. Usually the mounts become worn causing a rattling noise.
Just a thought.
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:50 PM   #9
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Are the mounts that attach to the cross support OK. Usually the mounts become worn causing a rattling noise.
Just a thought.
I was told that the cross support for the transmission is rotted so I ordered a used one to replace it. I don't hear any rattle. Just a wobble at around 50mph.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:10 PM   #10
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Default Autoserv another story

Jeep Cherokee. They claim I need a new catalytic converter. I replace both oxygen sensors and no problems since.

Jeep Cherokee again, Autoserv spent 3 days trying to find out 'general fault in emission'. Failed to find the fault. Independent garage found a purge valve installed backward. No problems since.

Always seek second opinions.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:12 PM   #11
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The diagnosis from AutoServ in Tilton says, "Found right rear wheel bearing loose and estimate to replace axel with right rear wheel bearing $370" if that makes sense. I forgot to mention the axel because I thought they were just trying to upsell. The wobble just happened when I had to drive on a bumpy road to pay my rent. When I got out on the main road the wobble appeared. Any suggestions?
$370 to replace axle & bearing is a reasonable price.
If it was my car I would have them do it.
It isn't difficult to do as long as you have the right puller for the axle & bearing.

Anyway, good luck
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Old 04-02-2018, 06:01 PM   #12
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$370 to replace axle & bearing is a reasonable price.
If it was my car I would have them do it.
It isn't difficult to do as long as you have the right puller for the axle & bearing.

Anyway, good luck
I am beginning to agree if that includes labor. I will check it out with them. All I need now is to have someone to install the transmission cross support. Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:11 PM   #13
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After spending $450 at AutoServ for what 'they' diagnosed as the original problem I drove home and nothing changed. They replaced the right rear axel and bearings, etc. and full alignment. As soon as I left the repair shop when I drove home and reached about 50-52 mph the car starts to shake which tells me 'maybe' there's something wrong the driveshaft. Very frustrating. Sorry, just blowin' out steam.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:52 PM   #14
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After spending $450 at AutoServ for what 'they' diagnosed as the original problem I drove home and nothing changed. They replaced the right rear axel and bearings, etc. and full alignment. As soon as I left the repair shop when I drove home and reached about 50-52 mph the car starts to shake which tells me 'maybe' there's something wrong the driveshaft. Very frustrating. Sorry, just blowin' out steam.
I tried to warn you. I didn't doubt that your wheel bearing was bad but I have never seen one cause a wobble unless it was so bad the wheel was ready to fall off. My best guess is you have a bad tire or a bad u-joint. Either one could cause the wobble that you're describing.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:55 PM   #15
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I tried to warn you. I didn't doubt that your wheel bearing was bad but I have never seen one cause a wobble unless it was so bad the wheel was ready to fall off. My best guess is you have a bad tire or a bad u-joint. Either one could cause the wobble that you're describing.
Your 'warning' was explained to the service shop as you decribed but they insisted they found the problem. My tires are fine.
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:05 PM   #16
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Your 'warning' was explained to the service shop as you decribed but they insisted they found the problem. My tires are fine.
The only way to check the u-joints is to take the drive shaft down and feel if they are binding. Is the wobble in the steering or in the seat when you're driving?
There is a long drag link on the front end of those jeeps that controls the front differential from swaying side to side. I have seen those go and cause a steering shake. Also, the tires may look ok but the only real way to check if a belt is out is to put them on a wheel balancer.
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:09 PM   #17
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The wobble is in the steering.
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:15 PM   #18
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It could be that drag link that goes from the frame to the steering linkage. I had the same issue on a Jeep that drove me crazy because the front end was tight and the alignment was right on. I forget what the drag link was called but it's more of a sway bar, not part of the steering linkage.

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Old 04-03-2018, 03:17 PM   #19
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It could be that drag link that goes from the frame to the steering linkage. I had the same issue on a Jeep that drove me crazy because the front end was tight and the alignment was right on. I forget what the drag link was called but it's more of a sway bar, not part of the steering linkage.

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Thanks. I'll pass it on to the mechanic tomorrow. Checked EBay and a new 'drag link' for my car is $25 shipped. It's possible it got loose as I had a new tie rod installed last August and maybe the drag link that it attaches to got loose or broke.
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:29 PM   #20
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It's a bar that's about 3 to 4ft long. It goes from the frame to the front differential. It keeps the differential from swaying side to side. The Jeep I had would shack violently when you hit a bump at higher speeds.

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Old 04-03-2018, 03:34 PM   #21
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It's a bar that's about 3 to 4ft long. It goes from the frame to the front differential. It keeps the differential from swaying side to side. The Jeep I had would shack violently when you hit a bump at higher speeds.

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So that's not what the tie rods connect to? That's what the illustrations show under 'Drag Link'. Is there another name for what you suggest? Here is an example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Drag-Link-for-99-04-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee/131603638720?fits=Year%3A2003%7CMake%3AJeep%7CMode l%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item1ea43029c0:g:1-MAAOSw86Jaafzs&vxp=mtr[/url]

or this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-F...Grand+Cherokee
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:42 PM   #22
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No, it's not part of the steering. It's more of a sway bar. You can forget about the drive shaft. If it's shaking in the steering then the problem is in the front end. It's obviously very had to diagnose over the internet but i'm just throwing this out there because I had this issue with a Jeep a few years back.

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Old 04-03-2018, 03:44 PM   #23
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No, it's not part of the steering. It's more of a sway bar. You can forget about the drive shaft. If it's shaking in the steering then the problem is in the front end. It's obviously very had to diagnose over the internet but i'm just throwing this out there because I had this issue with a Jeep a few years back.

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Did you see this one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-F...Grand+Cherokee
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:46 PM   #24
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That's it, track bar.

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Old 04-03-2018, 03:47 PM   #25
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That's it, track bar.

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I thought so. Thanks.
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:49 PM   #26
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I couldn't remember the name.

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Old 04-03-2018, 03:52 PM   #27
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I couldn't remember the name.

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According to a video I just watched it descibes what you said. It states that the dealer wanted about $300 to replace so he did it himself. The part on Ebay is $35. I don't think I could install myself. Do you know anyone that could do it for less if I get the part? It doesn't look too difficult with essentially 2 bolts but 1 of them is hard to access.
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Old 04-03-2018, 03:56 PM   #28
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I don't know anyone up there. My shop is in Woburn Ma. It's not hard to do but I have a lift and air tools. Much harder to do on the ground.

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Old 04-04-2018, 10:54 AM   #29
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UPDATE: AutoServ has agreed to order a new Track Bar, install and realignment for free. The service manager admitted that the car was not road tested as indicated on the receipt and did not diagnose a proper fix. The technician was experienced enough to make the call
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Old 04-04-2018, 11:28 AM   #30
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UPDATE: AutoServ has agreed to order a new Track Bar, install and realignment for free. The service manager admitted that the car was not road tested as indicated on the receipt and did not diagnose a proper fix. The technician was experienced enough to make the call
Good for you!
Kudos to BigD for the forum diagnosis!
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:04 PM   #31
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UPDATE: AutoServ has agreed to order a new Track Bar, install and realignment for free. The service manager admitted that the car was not road tested as indicated on the receipt and did not diagnose a proper fix. The technician was experienced enough to make the call
I hope that cures your problem. Like I said, it's pretty hard to diagnose a problem over the internet.
I have friends sending me video's all the time asking me what's wrong with their car. If it was that easy then I would just stay home and charge consulting fees.
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:16 PM   #32
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I hope that cures your problem. Like I said, it's pretty hard to diagnose a problem over the internet.
I have friends sending me video's all the time asking me what's wrong with their car. If it was that easy then I would just stay home and charge consulting fees.
I'm feeling confident that you are right about the Track Bar after reading and videos of the same problem nicknamed 'Death Wobble' that happens in so many of this model type. I also talked to another local mechanic that has installed many of these with exactly the same symptoms. He charges $70/hr. You bring the part and he installs. Good to know for future probs. The bar will be installed on Monday. I'll let you know if that was the answer. BTW, the manager at AutoServe told me that they have a 2 tiered tech system. The 1st level are young guys out of school learning and do only the low impact service i.e. oil changes, tire rotation, etc. Then the more detailed service goes to their more experience mechanics. Evidently, my lower ranked mechanic did not do the proper procedures i.e. road test which is why I'm getting the repair done gratis by the more experienced dude.
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Old 04-04-2018, 01:53 PM   #33
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I always thought the track bar only masked death wobble and that it was mostly the result of worn front-end components allowing harmonic vibration to enter the steering system.

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Old 04-04-2018, 02:28 PM   #34
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I always thought the track bar only masked death wobble and that it was mostly the result of worn front-end components allowing harmonic vibration to enter the steering system.

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More so on a Wrangler for some reason in my experience.
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Old 04-04-2018, 02:49 PM   #35
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I always thought the track bar only masked death wobble and that it was mostly the result of worn front-end components allowing harmonic vibration to enter the steering system.

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I have never seen a Harmonic damper cause a steering vibration. The harmonic damper is on the front of engine and would cause an engine vibration. Unless you're getting it confused with the steering damper which is a steering shock absorber.
The Jeep that I had was at multiple shops and had numerous front end parts replaced until it was brought to my shop because no one could solve the front end wobble problem.
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Old 04-04-2018, 05:07 PM   #36
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I have never seen a Harmonic damper cause a steering vibration. The harmonic damper is on the front of engine and would cause an engine vibration. Unless you're getting it confused with the steering damper which is a steering shock absorber.
The Jeep that I had was at multiple shops and had numerous front end parts replaced until it was brought to my shop because no one could solve the front end wobble problem.
I don't mean the harmonic damper as a part, I meant harmonic vibration in terms of hitting the "right frequency" at certain speeds to cause a front-end shimmy. Definitely what happens on the Wrangler, but not sure about other Jeeps.

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Old 04-05-2018, 08:09 AM   #37
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another cause of death wobble symptoms are worn out control arm bushings.
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Old 04-05-2018, 10:08 AM   #38
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death wobble is very common with worn control arm bushings. Also it's common for the track bar bolt to come loose or for the mounting bracket on the "frame" side to break.

before doing anything take a spin through here for the best free help available for anything jeep related. Read thru the posts and/or join the forum and post a question

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f115/
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Old 04-10-2018, 09:37 PM   #39
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I hope that cures your problem. Like I said, it's pretty hard to diagnose a problem over the internet.
I have friends sending me video's all the time asking me what's wrong with their car. If it was that easy then I would just stay home and charge consulting fees.
UPDATE: The dealer installed a new Track Bar and realigned the front end and that definitely did the trick. They even gave me a free rental while they fixed the car. It's amazing but I had to tell them how to fix the problem thanks to your suggestion. All work was done free. Thanks again for your help.
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Old 04-11-2018, 06:19 AM   #40
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UPDATE: The dealer installed a new Track Bar and realigned the front end and that definitely did the trick. They even gave me a free rental while they fixed the car. It's amazing but I had to tell them how to fix the problem thanks to your suggestion. All work was done free. Thanks again for your help.
I'm glad your problem was resolved.
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Old 04-11-2018, 07:15 AM   #41
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Default The Death Wobble

Infamous among Jeeps. Talk to those who knows Jeeps and they will tell you to replace all bushings with neoprene aftermarket, replace the bolts holding the track bar, and replace the steering stabilizer and your Jeep is ready to run at 100 mph without a problem. I had Black Widow Customs in Manchester, a well known Jeep custom shop did the work. My 2001 XJ faithfully navigate I-93 at 70 every week day to Cannon Mtn and back!
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Old 04-11-2018, 07:34 AM   #42
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Infamous among Jeeps. Talk to those who knows Jeeps and they will tell you to replace all bushings with neoprene aftermarket, replace the bolts holding the track bar, and replace the steering stabilizer and your Jeep is ready to run at 100 mph without a problem. I had Black Widow Customs in Manchester, a well known Jeep custom shop did the work. My 2001 XJ faithfully navigate I-93 at 70 every week day to Cannon Mtn and back!
I'm not a big fan of neoprene bushings, they tend to be noisy on most cars. I did a few cars with neoprene and had complaints so I only used factory parts now. In my business, complaints mean lost time and money.
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Old 04-11-2018, 10:51 AM   #43
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Black Widow did our 2000 TJ underneath as well, They did a great job. we already had a big lift on it but every connection/rod/bushing was redone. It better last a long time for the money dumped in.
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:19 AM   #44
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UPDATE: The dealer installed a new Track Bar and realigned the front end and that definitely did the trick. They even gave me a free rental while they fixed the car. It's amazing but I had to tell them how to fix the problem thanks to your suggestion. All work was done free. Thanks again for your help.
I'm doing a track bar on a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee today.
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Old 04-17-2018, 06:32 AM   #45
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I'm doing a track bar on a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee today.
What I was told there is nothing wrong with the track bars, but installations holes wear bigger over time and the bolts themselves. Installing larger diameter bolts seem to do the trick!
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Old 04-17-2018, 06:43 AM   #46
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The bushings go in them as was the case with this one. The truck was all over the road and had a violent wobble after hitting a bump at high speed.

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Old 04-17-2018, 07:10 AM   #47
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I think there was also an issue of using incorrectly sized bolts and/or bolts with/without shoulders in the past, which would result in "ovaling" out the track bar installation holes.

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Old 04-17-2018, 07:49 AM   #48
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I think there was also an issue of using incorrectly sized bolts and/or bolts with/without shoulders in the past, which would result in "ovaling" out the track bar installation holes.

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The only way that would happen is if the bolts were not tight. I haven't seen that issue in any of the Jeeps I've worked on but I'm sure it could happen.
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:53 AM   #49
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If all else fails check the brakes. As in my case after all the dealer did the problem kept returning. I thought it was finally fixed after the trackbar was replaced. The wobble soon returned. Took it to an independent mechanic and it was discovered that the driver front brake was slightly red compared to the passenger side. After taking the brake assembly apart and cleaning, etc. and reinstalling at no cost the mystery wobble disappeared. The left brake was not always releasing and would randomly hang up. Just another area to check.
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:04 AM   #50
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If all else fails check the brakes. As in my case after all the dealer did the problem kept returning. I thought it was finally fixed after the trackbar was replaced. The wobble soon returned. Took it to an independent mechanic and it was discovered that the driver front brake was slightly red compared to the passenger side. After taking the brake assembly apart and cleaning, etc. and reinstalling at no cost the mystery wobble disappeared. The left brake was not always releasing and would randomly hang up. Just another area to check.
Me thinks we have another FLL in this forum.
Now we have "wobble" that is competing with noodle.

Hard to believe that there are so many untrained mechanics where you took your Jeep.
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:14 AM   #51
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The only way that would happen is if the bolts were not tight. I haven't seen that issue in any of the Jeeps I've worked on but I'm sure it could happen.
Yes--one of the remedies was to, upon purchasing, torque the bolts down to factory specs which, for some reason, wasn't always accomplished at the factory. A second remedy was to purchase a set of "correct bolts" and replace the "incorrect" factory ones.

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Old 04-17-2018, 08:15 AM   #52
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Me thinks we have another FLL in this forum.
Now we have "wobble" that is competing with noodle.

Hard to believe that there are so many untrained mechanics where you took your Jeep.
Agree. The dealership has different levels of mechanics. They hire kids from HS to train and do the light stuff like oil changes and tires. Then the next tier are are the more experienced and handle the big stuff. I didn't know that until I express my concern in not diagnosing the problem correctly and then commitiing to 'necessary' repairs that never fixed the problem after $450. The mechanics also statedthat they test drove the car which they did not as indicated by the mileage in and out on the bill. This is a big dealership that sells 7-8 different new brands. I felt very uncomfortable returning several times to report it still wasn't fixed which is why I finally decided to visit an independant repair service. The fact that the final repair was done gratis because of the hassle I went through ensures that they will have my business from now on.
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:17 AM   #53
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Description from upgrade kit:

"This must-have upgrade will put your mind at ease. This kit will fix the design flaw caused by the stock bolts.The problem arises because the holes for the track bars (TB) are 9/16” while the factory bolts are 14mm. This creates a small clearance issue. The other issue is the factory bolts are completely threaded to the head. The threads come into contact with the metal sleeve in the bushing. Both of these factors will cause the bushing sleeve to wear down and become loose over a fairly short period of time causing damage and eventually death wobble. Our upgrade kit provides everything you need to replace the bolts for the Front Track Bar, and Rear Track Bar. New bolts will match factory 9/16” holes and new bolts have shoulder to prevent threads from coming into contact with bushing. Kit contains high strength Grade 8 hardware. Includes hardened extra thick washers (2 per bolt) that will not deform like standard washers and hex locking nuts. All hardware is yellow zinc to prevent rust."

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Old 04-17-2018, 08:49 AM   #54
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Description from upgrade kit:

"This must-have upgrade will put your mind at ease. This kit will fix the design flaw caused by the stock bolts.The problem arises because the holes for the track bars (TB) are 9/16” while the factory bolts are 14mm. This creates a small clearance issue. The other issue is the factory bolts are completely threaded to the head. The threads come into contact with the metal sleeve in the bushing. Both of these factors will cause the bushing sleeve to wear down and become loose over a fairly short period of time causing damage and eventually death wobble. Our upgrade kit provides everything you need to replace the bolts for the Front Track Bar, and Rear Track Bar. New bolts will match factory 9/16” holes and new bolts have shoulder to prevent threads from coming into contact with bushing. Kit contains high strength Grade 8 hardware. Includes hardened extra thick washers (2 per bolt) that will not deform like standard washers and hex locking nuts. All hardware is yellow zinc to prevent rust."

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That sounds like a great remedy if you are doing a lot of off road 4 wheeling. Where I am I don't see much of that. The ones I see are just regular daily drivers so they don't experience that kind of off road use. I've probably done about 10 track bars over the years and have never had one where the bolt holes where elongated, just worn out bushings.
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