Firewood ?

bigdog · 07-13-2012, 09:14 AM

Starting to look for firewood dealers for the coming winter....

I know, I know I'm rushing things, and it's still summer

BUt I like to get ahead of myself a little......

Anyway, called a firewood supplier in the Lakes region, who has firewood, and asked if he had 'seasoned' firewood, and response was 'No'.

However, he said he has a lot of firewood which was cut green back in early April, and said it would be fully seasoned, and ready to burn by Nov.

Now if I do the math, that's about 7 months drying time.... I honestly don't consider 7 months of drying time, 'seasoned firewood' !
BTW, the wood he has is mainly: Birch, Maple, Beech (no oak wood)

In the past I've burned mostly 'oak', and wouldn't burn anything less than 1 yr seasoned, but maybe oak takes longer to dry out, not sure?

What are thoughts of Forum members about this?

As always, thanks for your feedback, much appreciated !

Bigdog

RLW · 07-13-2012, 09:38 AM

I purchase my green firewood at the end of March first of April and it is just perfect for winter use. I request oak, but that is almost impossible to get all oak however my supplier gives as much oak as he has in his cutting splitting wood pile in line. I have had all the types that you have listed and haven't had a bit of a problem with them. If the wood was cut in April it should be more than fine for winter use and no you are not early as many have there wood now dumped in their driveway waiting to be stacked.

Slickcraft · 07-13-2012, 09:59 AM

If harvested in April then cut to length/split then stacked and covered for air drying, ok for Nov but not as good as cut last fall. If not cut to length/split until now than IMHO questionable for Nov use.

SIKSUKR · 07-13-2012, 10:01 AM

Welcome RLW.I just noticed that you are not new to the forum but thought that I would return the gesture you so frequently distribute!

Most firewood today is considered seasoned for winter if it is cut and split in Spring.

Winnisquamguy · 07-13-2012, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdog

Starting to look for firewood dealers for the coming winter....

I know, I know I'm rushing things, and it's still summer

BUt I like to get ahead of myself a little......

Anyway, called a firewood supplier in the Lakes region, who has firewood, and asked if he had 'seasoned' firewood, and response was 'No'.

However, he said he has a lot of firewood which was cut green back in early April, and said it would be fully seasoned, and ready to burn by Nov.

Now if I do the math, that's about 7 months drying time.... I honestly don't consider 7 months of drying time, 'seasoned firewood' !
BTW, the wood he has is mainly: Birch, Maple, Beech (no oak wood)

In the past I've burned mostly 'oak', and wouldn't burn anything less than 1 yr seasoned, but maybe oak takes longer to dry out, not sure?

What are thoughts of Forum members about this?

As always, thanks for your feedback, much appreciated !

Bigdog

I have mostly oak that sat for almost a year and now has been cut and split for a year have 2 cords available. Can deliver both to you for $575.00

RLW · 07-13-2012, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SIKSUKR

Welcome RLW.I just noticed that you are not new to the forum but thought that I would return the gesture you so frequently distribute!

Most firewood today is considered seasoned for winter if it is cut and split in Spring.

Thanks and here is yours just a tad bit late. but better late than never.

SIKSUKR, I just noticed that you are fairly new to the forum and glad you have joined us. (I see that I’m a tad bit late) Have fun and enjoy the Winni Forum while making many new friends .Thanks for all your comments on all subjects, some serious and others fun.

SAB1 · 07-13-2012, 01:27 PM

Its not dry. No way. Should have been cut prior to the sap running in Feb/March and even that is a stretch. You may get it to burn but you will work at it. I would not recommend burning much of it in a wood stove. You'll get creosote build up much faster than if you burned dry wood. Fireplace is better. Much more oxygen to assist.

bigdog · 07-13-2012, 02:18 PM

Thanks SAB1, appreciate your comments, and have to agree !

For everyone's information, 'I would' be burning in a wood fireplace insert,
and a very costly one at that. I also just had installed last season, a new stainless steel chimney liner, 30 feet of it ! $$$

That said, I certainly would not want 'ANYWAY' creosote, to accumulate in liner.

Will continue to search for sources of seasoned firewood, at least cut last Fall or early winter.

Thanks everyone.

Bigdog

Kamper · 07-13-2012, 02:43 PM

If you get down this way with a pickup truck, there's a house across the street from the Merrimack transfer station that has a "free firewood" sign. I'm not sure if it's seasoned though but depending on how much space you have in your yard, you might want to take advantage of any opportunities you find.

Good luck!

Altonbayicefishingfool · 07-13-2012, 11:10 PM

We get fire wood cut and split in the spring, stacked in June/ early July ready to burn this season. It is mixed wood,oak birch ect.. Never had a problem with build up of creosote. Keep in mind creosote tends to build up faster if you run your stove/ fireplace at a low temp, we run medium to hot= less build up.
Been doing this for every year for 40 years, same scenario. You pay up the ass for seasoned wood $$$ for what? Letting some other guy let it sit and dry in HIS yard, horse crap! You are running out of time so act now, midway through July better get stacking!!

HellRaZoR004 · 07-14-2012, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAB1

Its not dry. No way. Should have been cut prior to the sap running in Feb/March and even that is a stretch. You may get it to burn but you will work at it. I would not recommend burning much of it in a wood stove. You'll get creosote build up much faster than if you burned dry wood. Fireplace is better. Much more oxygen to assist.

I agree with SAB1. Last year I bought mostly oak that was cut/split in the spring and I tried burning it in the woodstove. It took forever to light and never got that hot. I constantly had to watch it...It burnt so bad that deposits built up at the chimney blocking the flow, in turn causing a ton of smoke to fill the house. It sucked! Better than the alternative.

Have you tried kiln-dried? I ended up getting 2 cords mid winter. It burnt better then anything and I'll most likely do that again this year. However it is more expensive. I got mine from a guy in Milford for $310 a cord (3 cord price as his truck carries 3).

upthesaukee · 07-14-2012, 08:00 AM

Wood is my primary source of heat, and I get 5 cords each spring. I have a large patch of asphalt that runs down the side of my garage. On days like we have had this past week, and expect for the next week, the wood dries quickly. As wood "turns color" we pull off that wood and exposing more wood to the effects of the sun as well as the heat from the asphalt. Then the key is to get it all stacked before the Sept rains arrive.

At my age, it is not fun trying to put up a bunch of wood in a 3 or 4 day period.

My wood is largely oak and maple, with a little birch and possibly ash thrown in. All is cut to exactly 16 inchs and split.

sky's · 07-14-2012, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdog

Starting to look for firewood dealers for the coming winter....

I know, I know I'm rushing things, and it's still summer

BUt I like to get ahead of myself a little......

Anyway, called a firewood supplier in the Lakes region, who has firewood, and asked if he had 'seasoned' firewood, and response was 'No'.

However, he said he has a lot of firewood which was cut green back in early April, and said it would be fully seasoned, and ready to burn by Nov.

Now if I do the math, that's about 7 months drying time.... I honestly don't consider 7 months of drying time, 'seasoned firewood' !
BTW, the wood he has is mainly: Birch, Maple, Beech (no oak wood)

In the past I've burned mostly 'oak', and wouldn't burn anything less than 1 yr seasoned, but maybe oak takes longer to dry out, not sure?

What are thoughts of Forum members about this?

As always, thanks for your feedback, much appreciated !

Bigdog

my wife and i burned wood for 3 straight winters and have discovered some tricks that work pretty good. 1 product that has worked very well is bio-bricks. when we fill up the stove i like to throw in 2-4 of these bricks and will give you a much hotter fire, and if you question how dry your wood is? then by using these bricks they will compensate for the lack dry wood. hopefully this makes sense? 2 years ago we used 7- cords last year much less with the mild winter. these bricks can be purchased indiv. packages or depending on how much wood you burn can be purchased by the pallet. good luck.

RLW · 07-14-2012, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upthesaukee

Wood is my primary source of heat, and I get 5 cords each spring. I have a large patch of asphalt that runs down the side of my garage. On days like we have had this past week, and expect for the next week, the wood dries quickly. As wood "turns color" we pull off that wood and exposing more wood to the effects of the sun as well as the heat from the asphalt. Then the key is to get it all stacked before the Sept rains arrive.

At my age, it is not fun trying to put up a bunch of wood in a 3 or 4 day period.

My wood is largely oak and maple, with a little birch and possibly ash thrown in. All is cut to exactly 16 inches and split.

Every time I go by your homestead and see all that wood, I say to myself, I'm glad I do not have to stack all that wood and the next time I go by it has all disappeared. I have a hard time just doing my 2 cords. So mot it be...

SAMIAM · 07-14-2012, 08:46 AM

Best thing to do to make sure your wood is good and dry is to buy it two years ahead.....even three.Stack it outside where it will get a little sun and wind and it will be so dry you can light it with a match.
BTW ,Birch and beech is very close to oak in btu's.......I use a lot of both and it works out fine.

http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index...ng_value_wood/

GM doc · 07-14-2012, 04:50 PM

I have used this product for 2 years now. love them.

http://ecobrick.net/

Happy Gourmand · 07-16-2012, 06:38 AM

We heat our house the old fashioned way. There is a little thingy on the wall that controls a machine in the cellar that somehow keeps the house nice and toasty in the winter. There is a pipe that comes in the house from the street that feeds it when it is running. Seems to cost a lot less than the prices and amounts of wood that are needed to keep the house warm in the winter. And I don't have to worry about seasoning, unless I'm cooking something.
Seriously, we did the wood thing for several years, had a wood furnace in the basement tied in to the warm air duct work, even had a coil in it for hot water that used to blow once in a while because it made more hot water than we could use, even with 3 young kids.
In my old age, I find that the old fashioned way we do it now is certainly not just easier, but much cleaner and a lot less expensive.

upthesaukee · 07-16-2012, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Phantom Gourmand

We heat our house the old fashioned way. There is a little thingy on the wall that controls a machine in the cellar that somehow keeps the house nice and toasty in the winter. There is a pipe that comes in the house from the street that feeds it when it is running. Seems to cost a lot less than the prices and amounts of wood that are needed to keep the house warm in the winter. And I don't have to worry about seasoning, unless I'm cooking something.
Seriously, we did the wood thing for several years, had a wood furnace in the basement tied in to the warm air duct work, even had a coil in it for hot water that used to blow once in a while because it made more hot water than we could use, even with 3 young kids.
In my old age, I find that the old fashioned way we do it now is certainly not just easier, but much cleaner and a lot less expensive.

I fully appreciate what you say, and believe me, I would be thrilled to not have to pay for the wood, look at it on my driveway for the summer (love the smell of fresh cut wood tho', maybe Glade will put it out

), stack it in the wood shed, go out every day and bring a wheelbarrow full of wood into the mudroom and fill the Hearthstone wood stove 3-4 times per day; I would rather watch the slightly overweight guy back a truck into my driveway, drag an orangy looking hose 50 ft to the outside tank, and stand there for 5 minutes listening to the whistle til it stops, then drag the hose back to the truck, hit the button to retract it, climb in the cab for a few mins, then leave a wrinkly piece of paper in an envelope hanging on my door knob and then drive away. However...

...our house started out as a 40x8 Detroiter trailer with a 22x8 screened in porch. By adding a gambrel roof, enclosing the whole area, adding space off both ends and the back, putting in a solid oak circular staircase to access the area over the trailer, Mom & Dad's modest 2 BR, 1 bath, kitchen/LR weekend retreat trailer became a 10 room house!!!!! It is replete with 16 4x5 sliding glass windows from the mid80's downstairs and two upstairs, with every thing supported by concrete piers sunk deep in the ground, creating a crawl space that is extremely drafty.

Having to have an outside tank, we must use Kero. Ouch. With the structure being Post and Beam, the exterior walls were 2x4 construction (remember it was primarily to be weekends and summer vacations

), little insulation, drafty, heat loss out the Gazoo through those windows, the cost to heat primarily by oil is prohibitive. We would be filling twice a month each month from Dec to March @ over $800 per month. Without tearing the place down and starting over, or spending nearly an equivelent amount to renovate, I guess that I will gladly fill with oil (my backup) 1-2 times per year, pay for the wood, look at it in my driveway all summer...

MAXUM · 07-16-2012, 09:56 AM

I've always stuck to the 1 year rule. Since I scrap and cut/split my own wood I tend to favor oak and maple. Beech and birch will work too, but beech seems to never completely dry in a year and birch burns fast and hot so if I have any of that I will mix it. Another down side to birch, it doesn't store well beyond a year as it rots quickly.

spider22 · 07-16-2012, 11:17 AM

Oak should be dried a minimum of 18 months to burn and heat properly but those other species should be fine if cut last spring. I have cut plenty of hardwood in may and June and it was fine for that winter.

GM doc · 07-16-2012, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Phantom Gourmand

We heat our house the old fashioned way. There is a little thingy on the wall that controls a machine in the cellar that somehow keeps the house nice and toasty in the winter. There is a pipe that comes in the house from the street that feeds it when it is running. Seems to cost a lot less than the prices and amounts of wood that are needed to keep the house warm in the winter. And I don't have to worry about seasoning, unless I'm cooking something.
Seriously, we did the wood thing for several years, had a wood furnace in the basement tied in to the warm air duct work, even had a coil in it for hot water that used to blow once in a while because it made more hot water than we could use, even with 3 young kids.
In my old age, I find that the old fashioned way we do it now is certainly not just easier, but much cleaner and a lot less expensive.

When the power goes out, I have cooked and been warm with my woodstove. The ecobrick stacks nice and is very easy, and LOW ash.
I have a riniia (sp) propane heater for sale if anyone is interested. super awesome, But I didn't use enough LPG. sky high per gallon.

bigdog · 07-17-2012, 01:27 PM

How about Maple and Ash for buring in woodstove.

How long should this be seasoned for this purpose?

I have a source who has about 200 cords of this type, cut in Jan-Feb. this year, but in log length. He will cut & split to order, as he receives each order. He also has Beech wood, but inclined to just take Maple & Ash mix.

Price is EXTREMLY reasonable. I only need 1 cord.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Bigdog

ishoot308 · 07-17-2012, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdog

How about Maple and Ash for buring in woodstove.

How long should this be seasoned for this purpose?

I have a source who has about 200 cords of this type, cut in Jan-Feb. this year, but in log length. He will cut & split to order, as he receives each order. He also has Beech wood, but inclined to just take Maple & Ash mix.

Price is EXTREMLY reasonable. I only need 1 cord.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Bigdog

I believe Ash is one of the few woods that needs little to no seasoning. Not sure about Beech and maple should be seasoned....

HellRaZoR004 · 07-17-2012, 02:43 PM

Keep in mind that seasoning doesn't truly start until it is cut to length and split.

spider22 · 07-17-2012, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellRaZoR004

Keep in mind that seasoning doesn't truly start until it is cut to length and split.

I have burnt and sold wood for several years and I disagree with that. Certain species like oak, birch, and beech do not dry well until they are split but other species like ash and maple dry and season very well even before they are split. As a matter of fact in the past I have cut down trees early in the spring and let the buds or leaves draw a lot of moisture out of the trees and cut and split them in the fall and although they are not completely dry it does not take long before they are.

BroadHopper · 07-17-2012, 03:39 PM

can be found on Rte 107 in Laconia. I can't recall the name.

I'm fortunate to have a pipe from the street and right now is the cheapest way to heat the cottage. I do have a fireplace with an insert. I converted it to gas logs but I can easily switched to wood. The hottest wood I ever burned is apple wood. You should find cuttings from an apple orchard. It is a great way to clean your flue.

upthesaukee · 07-17-2012, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spider22

I have burnt and sold wood for several years and I disagree with that. Certain species like oak, birch, and beech do not dry well until they are split but other species like ash and maple dry and season very well even before they are split. As a matter of fact in the past I have cut down trees early in the spring and let the buds or leaves draw a lot of moisture out of the trees and cut and split them in the fall and although they are not completely dry it does not take long before they are.

I was reading just recently an article by John Harrigan, a North Country author, who burns wood and has for eons. His information, which may vary from yours or anyone else's, is that full logs take 3 times the amount of time to season as does cut and split lengths. To that end, he has 3 piles of logs each year, this years, the next years and the following years. Late summer he will cut his logs into lengths and stack it in the wood shed. Admittedly, he cuts to 3 ft lengths because he uses an outdoor wood furnace for primary heat. He does take some of the wood and cuts to shorter lengths and splits it for backup wood stoves in the house.
Just a different take. My wood is this years logs my logger fells, cuts, and splits as needed.

RLW · 07-17-2012, 06:28 PM

My wood supplier here in Alton cuts during the winter and stacks in log lengths and he continues cutting in the spring and sets it in another location. Cuts to length & splits in spring and summer as the orders come in. All my wood is all set for fall/winter use including all the oak and I have it del. end of March first of April.

dpg · 07-24-2012, 06:14 AM

Jeez burning wood seems like quite an art for some people. I have to agree with adjusting the thermostat when I feel the need.

RLW · 07-24-2012, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdog

Starting to look for firewood dealers for the coming winter....

I know, I know I'm rushing things, and it's still summer

BUt I like to get ahead of myself a little......

Anyway, called a firewood supplier in the Lakes region, who has firewood, and asked if he had 'seasoned' firewood, and response was 'No'.

However, he said he has a lot of firewood which was cut green back in early April, and said it would be fully seasoned, and ready to burn by Nov.

Now if I do the math, that's about 7 months drying time.... I honestly don't consider 7 months of drying time, 'seasoned firewood' !
BTW, the wood he has is mainly: Birch, Maple, Beech (no oak wood)

In the past I've burned mostly 'oak', and wouldn't burn anything less than 1 yr seasoned, but maybe oak takes longer to dry out, not sure?

What are thoughts of Forum members about this?

As always, thanks for your feedback, much appreciated !

Bigdog

By the way, did you get any firewood as yet??? If so, how does it look and happy burning this fall and winter.

07-13-2012, 09:14 AM	#1
bigdog Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Central MA-Gilford Posts: 1,411 Thanks: 308 Thanked 117 Times in 94 Posts	Firewood ? Starting to look for firewood dealers for the coming winter.... I know, I know I'm rushing things, and it's still summer BUt I like to get ahead of myself a little...... Anyway, called a firewood supplier in the Lakes region, who has firewood, and asked if he had 'seasoned' firewood, and response was 'No'. However, he said he has a lot of firewood which was cut green back in early April, and said it would be fully seasoned, and ready to burn by Nov. Now if I do the math, that's about 7 months drying time.... I honestly don't consider 7 months of drying time, 'seasoned firewood' ! BTW, the wood he has is mainly: Birch, Maple, Beech (no oak wood) In the past I've burned mostly 'oak', and wouldn't burn anything less than 1 yr seasoned, but maybe oak takes longer to dry out, not sure? What are thoughts of Forum members about this? As always, thanks for your feedback, much appreciated ! Bigdog

07-13-2012, 09:38 AM	#2
RLW Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Alton Bay on the mountain by a lake Posts: 2,023 Thanks: 563 Thanked 444 Times in 311 Posts	I purchase my green firewood at the end of March first of April and it is just perfect for winter use. I request oak, but that is almost impossible to get all oak however my supplier gives as much oak as he has in his cutting splitting wood pile in line. I have had all the types that you have listed and haven't had a bit of a problem with them. If the wood was cut in April it should be more than fine for winter use and no you are not early as many have there wood now dumped in their driveway waiting to be stacked. __________________ There is nothing better than living on Alton Mountain & our grand kids visits. Last edited by RLW; 07-13-2012 at 09:39 AM. Reason: deleted a duplicate word

07-13-2012, 10:01 AM	#4
SIKSUKR Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 5,075 Thanks: 215 Thanked 903 Times in 509 Posts	Welcome RLW.I just noticed that you are not new to the forum but thought that I would return the gesture you so frequently distribute! Most firewood today is considered seasoned for winter if it is cut and split in Spring. __________________ SIKSUKR

07-13-2012, 02:18 PM	#8
bigdog Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Central MA-Gilford Posts: 1,411 Thanks: 308 Thanked 117 Times in 94 Posts	Firewood? Thanks SAB1, appreciate your comments, and have to agree ! For everyone's information, 'I would' be burning in a wood fireplace insert, and a very costly one at that. I also just had installed last season, a new stainless steel chimney liner, 30 feet of it ! $$$ That said, I certainly would not want 'ANYWAY' creosote, to accumulate in liner. Will continue to search for sources of seasoned firewood, at least cut last Fall or early winter. Thanks everyone. Bigdog

07-14-2012, 08:00 AM	#12
upthesaukee Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Alton Bay Posts: 5,548 Blog Entries: 2 Thanks: 2,399 Thanked 1,918 Times in 1,061 Posts	Depends on where your wood sits over the summer Wood is my primary source of heat, and I get 5 cords each spring. I have a large patch of asphalt that runs down the side of my garage. On days like we have had this past week, and expect for the next week, the wood dries quickly. As wood "turns color" we pull off that wood and exposing more wood to the effects of the sun as well as the heat from the asphalt. Then the key is to get it all stacked before the Sept rains arrive. At my age, it is not fun trying to put up a bunch of wood in a 3 or 4 day period. My wood is largely oak and maple, with a little birch and possibly ash thrown in. All is cut to exactly 16 inchs and split. __________________ I Live Here... I am always UPTHESAUKEE !!!!

07-13-2012, 09:59 AM	#3
Slickcraft Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Welch Island and West Alton Posts: 3,219 Thanks: 1,175 Thanked 2,002 Times in 915 Posts	If harvested in April then cut to length/split then stacked and covered for air drying, ok for Nov but not as good as cut last fall. If not cut to length/split until now than IMHO questionable for Nov use.

The Following User Says Thank You to SIKSUKR For This Useful Post:
RLW (07-13-2012)

The Following User Says Thank You to RLW For This Useful Post:
SIKSUKR (07-13-2012)

07-13-2012, 01:27 PM	#7
SAB1 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Tuftonboro Posts: 1,165 Thanks: 182 Thanked 297 Times in 220 Posts	Its not dry. No way. Should have been cut prior to the sap running in Feb/March and even that is a stretch. You may get it to burn but you will work at it. I would not recommend burning much of it in a wood stove. You'll get creosote build up much faster than if you burned dry wood. Fireplace is better. Much more oxygen to assist.

The Following User Says Thank You to SAB1 For This Useful Post:
bigdog (07-13-2012)

07-13-2012, 02:43 PM	#9
Kamper Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Thornton's Ferry Posts: 1,296 Thanks: 67 Thanked 166 Times in 126 Posts	If you get down this way with a pickup truck, there's a house across the street from the Merrimack transfer station that has a "free firewood" sign. I'm not sure if it's seasoned though but depending on how much space you have in your yard, you might want to take advantage of any opportunities you find. Good luck!

07-13-2012, 11:10 PM	#10
Altonbayicefishingfool Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 153 Thanks: 19 Thanked 52 Times in 30 Posts	We get fire wood cut and split in the spring, stacked in June/ early July ready to burn this season. It is mixed wood,oak birch ect.. Never had a problem with build up of creosote. Keep in mind creosote tends to build up faster if you run your stove/ fireplace at a low temp, we run medium to hot= less build up. Been doing this for every year for 40 years, same scenario. You pay up the ass for seasoned wood $$$ for what? Letting some other guy let it sit and dry in HIS yard, horse crap! You are running out of time so act now, midway through July better get stacking!!

The Following User Says Thank You to RLW For This Useful Post:
upthesaukee (07-14-2012)

07-14-2012, 08:46 AM	#15
SAMIAM Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Moultonborough Posts: 2,837 Thanks: 326 Thanked 1,626 Times in 562 Posts	Best thing to do to make sure your wood is good and dry is to buy it two years ahead.....even three.Stack it outside where it will get a little sun and wind and it will be so dry you can light it with a match. BTW ,Birch and beech is very close to oak in btu's.......I use a lot of both and it works out fine. http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index...ng_value_wood/

07-14-2012, 04:50 PM	#16
GM doc Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 76 Thanks: 1 Thanked 23 Times in 9 Posts	Try these.... I have used this product for 2 years now. love them. http://ecobrick.net/

07-16-2012, 06:38 AM	#17
Happy Gourmand Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ruskin FL Posts: 1,025 Thanks: 187 Thanked 322 Times in 179 Posts	Heat We heat our house the old fashioned way. There is a little thingy on the wall that controls a machine in the cellar that somehow keeps the house nice and toasty in the winter. There is a pipe that comes in the house from the street that feeds it when it is running. Seems to cost a lot less than the prices and amounts of wood that are needed to keep the house warm in the winter. And I don't have to worry about seasoning, unless I'm cooking something. Seriously, we did the wood thing for several years, had a wood furnace in the basement tied in to the warm air duct work, even had a coil in it for hot water that used to blow once in a while because it made more hot water than we could use, even with 3 young kids. In my old age, I find that the old fashioned way we do it now is certainly not just easier, but much cleaner and a lot less expensive.

07-16-2012, 09:56 AM	#19
MAXUM Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Kuna ID Posts: 2,755 Thanks: 246 Thanked 1,942 Times in 802 Posts	I've always stuck to the 1 year rule. Since I scrap and cut/split my own wood I tend to favor oak and maple. Beech and birch will work too, but beech seems to never completely dry in a year and birch burns fast and hot so if I have any of that I will mix it. Another down side to birch, it doesn't store well beyond a year as it rots quickly.

07-16-2012, 11:17 AM	#20
spider22 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Alstead,NH Posts: 98 Thanks: 9 Thanked 8 Times in 5 Posts	Oak should be dried a minimum of 18 months to burn and heat properly but those other species should be fine if cut last spring. I have cut plenty of hardwood in may and June and it was fine for that winter.

07-17-2012, 01:27 PM	#22
bigdog Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Central MA-Gilford Posts: 1,411 Thanks: 308 Thanked 117 Times in 94 Posts	Maple and Ash firewood ? How about Maple and Ash for buring in woodstove. How long should this be seasoned for this purpose? I have a source who has about 200 cords of this type, cut in Jan-Feb. this year, but in log length. He will cut & split to order, as he receives each order. He also has Beech wood, but inclined to just take Maple & Ash mix. Price is EXTREMLY reasonable. I only need 1 cord. Thoughts? Thanks, Bigdog

07-17-2012, 02:43 PM	#24
HellRaZoR004 Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Litchfield/Gilford Posts: 828 Thanks: 233 Thanked 224 Times in 131 Posts	Keep in mind that seasoning doesn't truly start until it is cut to length and split.

07-17-2012, 03:39 PM	#26
BroadHopper Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Laconia NH Posts: 5,512 Thanks: 3,118 Thanked 1,090 Times in 784 Posts	Kilned dry wood can be found on Rte 107 in Laconia. I can't recall the name. I'm fortunate to have a pipe from the street and right now is the cheapest way to heat the cottage. I do have a fireplace with an insert. I converted it to gas logs but I can easily switched to wood. The hottest wood I ever burned is apple wood. You should find cuttings from an apple orchard. It is a great way to clean your flue. __________________ Someday may never be an actual day.

07-17-2012, 06:28 PM	#28
RLW Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Alton Bay on the mountain by a lake Posts: 2,023 Thanks: 563 Thanked 444 Times in 311 Posts	My wood supplier here in Alton cuts during the winter and stacks in log lengths and he continues cutting in the spring and sets it in another location. Cuts to length & splits in spring and summer as the orders come in. All my wood is all set for fall/winter use including all the oak and I have it del. end of March first of April. __________________ There is nothing better than living on Alton Mountain & our grand kids visits.

07-24-2012, 06:14 AM	#29
dpg Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 2,560 Thanks: 149 Thanked 229 Times in 166 Posts	Jeez burning wood seems like quite an art for some people. I have to agree with adjusting the thermostat when I feel the need.