Price Cost of Oil Change

[songkrai]

What was the cost of last oil change ? And where.

Yes, depends on 4, 6, 8 cylinder.

Any discounts floating around?

[fatlazyless]

Walmart Auto Care Center in Tilton and Plymouth stores still have the Pit Crew -$19.88 oil and filter change but it is traditional oil and not synthetic. Synthetic oil and filter change at Walmart starts at about $35, and you can upgrade to the better quality gold Fram filter as opposed to the bronze Fram filter.

Is best to get there at 7-am, seven days/weeks, to beat the waiting line.

[8gv]

$33

My garage at home

[garysanfran]

Originally Posted by 8gv

$33

My garage at home

Where do you recycle the oil?

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by songkrai

What was the cost of last oil change ? And where.

Yes, depends on 4, 6, 8 cylinder.

Any discounts floating around?

If you're looking for cheap FLL knows all those places.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by garysanfran

Where do you recycle the oil?

If you buy oil from Walmart they will take your old oil. They usually have pretty good prices on Mobil 1.

[BroadHopper]

Originally Posted by garysanfran

Where do you recycle the oil?

Oil retailers must accept your old oil. It's the law.

[John Mercier]

Originally Posted by garysanfran

Where do you recycle the oil?

Many town sheds (road maintenance) and even Meredith Truck have used oil burners that heat their buildings with.

We sell motor oil; but I do not know of any NH RSA that requires us to accept used back... and we never have.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by BroadHopper

Oil retailers must accept your old oil. It's the law.

I remember 40 some odd years ago they use to oil the dirt roads with it.

[ITD]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I remember 40 some odd years ago they use to oil the dirt roads with it.

Me too, keeps the dust down on unpaved roads.

[TiltonBB]

Years ago I worked for a large construction material supplier with over 400 vehicles. Changing the engine oil in one truck sometimes takes 8 to 10 gallons.

We put waste oil heaters in the maintenance garages for winter heat but ended up running them overnight during the summer. In the construction industry, summer is when we generated the most used oil.

[John Mercier]

Post the RSA.
I have been in retail for close to the last 16 years...
We have always sold oil and never accepted used oil.

I find it hard to believe that no one in our management would be aware of such a statute.

[ishoot308]

https://www.cga.ct.gov/2000/rpt/2000-R-0185.htm

Dan

[John Mercier]

So NH doesn't actually have such a law.

[longislander]

Looks like used oil ... not sellers of oil.
F. Used oil for recycle rules apply to:
1) Generators;
2) Transporters;
3) Marketers; and
4) Burners of used oil.

G. “Do-it-yourself (DIY) used oil” means oil that is derived from households, such as used oil generated by individuals through the maintenance of their personal, non-business vehicles. DIY used oil generators (i.e., homeowners) are exempt from the requirements of the Hazardous Waste Rules. Anyone who collects DIY used oil becomes a generator of “Used Oil for Recycle” and is subject to the generator requirements in Env-Hw 807.06.

https://www.des.nh.gov/sites/g/files...quirements.pdf

https://www.des.nh.gov/sites/g/files...env-hw-800.pdf


RE: previous post to RSA 147: B12 https://www.cga.ct.gov/2000/rpt/2000-R-0185.htm



https://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/rsa...OC-X-147-B.htm

[SAB1]

Great they charge you when you buy the oil and setup grants to help towns collect it. Then the towns like Tuftonboro turn around and charge the do it yourselfers to get rid of the oil.

[Descant]

I think there are some changes going on. Gas stations (remember when they were service stations?) will generally collect oil and more frequently over time, use it for heating. BUT, now others will buy it from them and either use it for heat or sell it to somebody like Wentworth Greenhouses in Rollinsford. They in turn, developed a business to re-refine the used oil and use some for heat and some gets sold for other purposes. That operation was in turn sold to Clean Harbors. I recall when it first opened, they were re-refining hundreds of 1,000's of gallons a year. The next closest similar operation was in Ohio, doing thousands of barrels a year. I expect there are more of these operations in place now--my info is several years old, from when I was in a related state oversight position.

[John Mercier]

Originally Posted by SAB1

Great they charge you when you buy the oil and setup grants to help towns collect it. Then the towns like Tuftonboro turn around and charge the do it yourselfers to get rid of the oil.

I believe the grants are for infrastructure... not operational costs.

[Biggd]

I had my own auto repair shop for many years and heated with used oil.
I started out accepting oil from others but that turned out to be a big mistake because DIYers tend to mix other fluids, like antifreeze, brake fluid, and other non-petroleum products, that would cause problems with the burner.

[DPatnaude]

Looks like most transfer stations around the lake accept used motor oil:

https://www.des.nh.gov/sites/g/files...t-used-oil.pdf

[loony]

$23.00 at home

costco/Kirkland 2-5qt 0w-20w full synthetic oil jugs for $30 plus ~$8 oil filter. I can change the oil in two cars in less time it takes to drive one to the shop. I drop off the used oil next time I go to the transfer & recycle station

Originally Posted by 8gv

$33

My garage at home

[WinnisquamZ]

Embarrassed to say what I paid last week at Cantin Chev for my truck


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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by WinnisquamZ

Embarrassed to say what I paid last week at Cantin Chev for my truck


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I have a full size GMC. It takes 8 quarts of synthetic oil so any oil and filter change would be at least $100.

[WinnisquamZ]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I have a full size GMC. It takes 8 quarts of synthetic oil so any oil and filter change would be at least $100.

Higher!


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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by WinnisquamZ

Higher!


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I had my own repair business, retired 3 years ago. I would get $100 then for a Mobil 1 oil & filter change. So I guess inflation has takin it's toll.
I just replaced an alternator in my daughters car, cost me $400, I use to pay $250. You can get them cheaper online but if you need it right away you pay a premium.
I still change my own oil & filter with Mobil 1, costs me about $50.

[Neko]

The GMC dealer that services my truck charges $79.95 for a oil change and tire rotation.

[Descant]

Originally Posted by Neko

The GMC dealer that services my truck charges $79.95 for a oil change and tire rotation.

That's more what I would expect, and many places like that will still vacuum too.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by Neko

The GMC dealer that services my truck charges $79.95 for a oil change and tire rotation.

That's cheap if it's a full size truck that takes 8 quarts, they are making next to nothing with rotating the tires too? GM dealers use Dexos, which is more money than Mobil 1.
Mine is a 2018 4x4 with a 5.3 liter engine, takes 8 quarts of full synthetic not synthetic blend. The older models only took 5 quarts of oil.

[fatlazyless]

If you purchase your tires at either the Tilton or Plymouth Walmart Tire & Lube Center, they will rotate your tires for free, forever, so I always get that done with their oil change. Walmart can get that wackadoozie sized tire designed for an old boat trailer, too.

Is best to get there at 7-am, seven days/week, to beat their waiting line.

[LIforrelaxin]

Originally Posted by Biggd

That's cheap if it's a full size truck that takes 8 quarts, they are making next to nothing with rotating the tires too? GM dealers use Dexos, which is more money than Mobil 1.
Mine is a 2018 4x4 with a 5.3 liter engine, takes 8 quarts of full synthetic not synthetic blend. The older models only took 5 quarts of oil.

I take my truck to the dealer because it is the cheapest alternative... usually around 70$ although its possible the price has increased since my last oil change in the fall......

While the dealerships charge an arm and a leg for a quart of oil, they build price they pay and use in their shops is quite different.....

I myself have a full size GM truck, with 8 qt. capacity.... The dealership that I use is still be best option... I have talked with various garages and you Jiffy lubes and because of the extra capacity their charges jump quickly...

[Skippermark]

Originally Posted by Biggd

GM dealers use Dexos, which is more money than Mobil 1.

Dexos is an approval rating (specification) that was developed by GM. It’s not an actual a brand. Mobil 1 is Dexos approved.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by Skippermark

Dexos is an approval rating (specification) that was developed by GM. It’s not an actual a brand. Mobil 1 is Dexos approved.

I didn't know that? Being an independent shop owner, I've only used Mobil 1 for the past 40 years for all my synthetic oil changes.
I just bought a 5qt jug of Mobil 1 yesterday, $29. Sometimes I buy it at Costco's, if it's on sale it's cheaper. Add 3 more quarts and a quality oil filter and I'm up to $50 to $60. I have a friend that lets me use his lift so I'm not crawling around on the ground.
Like I said, if you're paying $70 at the dealer you're getting a bargain.

[VitaBene]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I didn't know that? Being an independent shop owner, I've only used Mobil 1 for the past 40 years for all my synthetic oil changes.
I just bought a 5qt jug of Mobil 1 yesterday, $29. Sometimes I buy it at Costco's, if it's on sale it's cheaper. Add 3 more quarts and a quality oil filter and I'm up to $50 to $60. I have a friend that lets me use his lift so I'm not crawling around on the ground.
Like I said, if you're paying $70 at the dealer you're getting a bargain.

I have an old school oil pit (concrete) but with all of the plastic shrouds and nonsense on new cars, I bring the cars to a local independent shop! I use the pit for tractors etc still.

[Skippermark]

Originally Posted by Biggd

I didn't know that? Being an independent shop owner, I've only used Mobil 1 for the past 40 years for all my synthetic oil changes.

I didn’t know about it either, but my son is an auto tech and told me about it, and sure enough when I looked up Mobile 1, Valvoline, and a few other brands, they all had that Dexos logo on them.

I imagine there are some of their oils that aren’t certified, but they’re probably for older cars.

I guess it’s kind of like from the “old” days when I was younger and oil had ratings of SF, SG and the like.

Mobile 1 is a great oil. They really started the push to synthetic, and even today other brands just don’t have the popularity of it.

[ApS]

Originally Posted by Skippermark

I didn’t know about it either, but my son is an auto tech and told me about it, and sure enough when I looked up Mobile 1, Valvoline, and a few other brands, they all had that Dexos logo on them.

I imagine there are some of their oils that aren’t certified, but they’re probably for older cars.

I guess it’s kind of like from the “old” days when I was younger and oil had ratings of SF, SG and the like.

Mobile 1 is a great oil. They really started the push to synthetic, and even today other brands just don’t have the popularity of it.

Back in the1950s, you'd be aware of a synthetic oil made by Castrol. Castrol "R" for racing had a strong odor of castor oil, from which it was first synthesized.in Britain.

https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/a.../55/castrol-r/

Valvoline was on the right track with their conventional oil, offering low viscosities of 5, 10, and 20 weights in the early 1970s.

Red Line synthetics arrived on the racing scene in 1980, but had only a low level of market penetration. Their claim to be 100% American-made brings out the patriot in us. .Their large range of products can be admired, and can be ordered through Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=redline+m...l_9enw7937ot_b

A primer on synthetic oils:

https://gmb.net/blog/synthetic-vs-co...%20the%20years.

[WinnisquamZ]

Originally Posted by VitaBene

I have an old school oil pit (concrete) but with all of the plastic shrouds and nonsense on new cars, I bring the cars to a local independent shop! I use the pit for tractors etc still.

Oil pits are great. Don’t see them enough


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[Biggd]

Originally Posted by Skippermark

I didn’t know about it either, but my son is an auto tech and told me about it, and sure enough when I looked up Mobile 1, Valvoline, and a few other brands, they all had that Dexos logo on them.

I imagine there are some of their oils that aren’t certified, but they’re probably for older cars.

I guess it’s kind of like from the “old” days when I was younger and oil had ratings of SF, SG and the like.

Mobile 1 is a great oil. They really started the push to synthetic, and even today other brands just don’t have the popularity of it.

GM does label their synthetic oil, Dexos. You can buy the Dexos brand oil but it's more expensive than Mobil 1.

[Skippermark]

Originally Posted by ApS

https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/a.../55/castrol-r/

Red Line synthetics arrived on the racing scene in 1980, but had only a low level of market penetration.

https://gmb.net/blog/synthetic-vs-co...%20the%20years.

Thanks for the links. Now I'll have some good reading to do before bed tonight.

My son has a couple older muscle cars and only puts Red Line in them, but he said it's not API approved though the quality exceeds their standards.

I had never heard of it until he told me about it.

[ApS]

I receive regular emails from a Porsche development website, located in California. As one might expect, everything "LN Engineering, LLC", sends is top-notch.

Their opinions on modern oil usage caught my eye. We don't hear of "break-in oil" nowadays, but with today's modern engines, the importance of break-in oils has actually risen.

Here's a partial quote with synthetic oil highlighted:

"...Both the cylinder walls and piston ring faces would wear into each other, hence where the term breaking in an engine came from. Cylinder bores in modern engines are for the most part all plateau honed and use harder carbon steel piston rings, many of which use coatings like CrN (chromium nitride) to provide increased durability. This results in less wear during break-in but can also mean engines can take longer to break-in and can be more sensitive to tuning issues during initial run-in. Likewise using the wrong oil during this period can extend the amount of time it takes to seal up the piston rings or even prevent them from seating at all. That is why a break in oil is used and synthetics or any oils with friction modifiers should not be used during the break-in period.

"As the engine oil is often referred to as the gasket between the piston ring and the cylinder bore, what oil is used for break-in and afterwards is critical. We all know never to use a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil in a new engine, however using any engine oil with friction modifiers can also negatively affect the ability of the piston rings to break-in, resulting in poor ring seal and increased blow-by. Remember, we need there to be some wear between the rings and cylinder bores to allow everything to seal up properly during this period."

Their recommendation for all engines is a motor oil with the brand name of "Driven".

Forty years ago, engine rebuilders were advised not to use STP when re-assembling their engines. Because of the above quote, I suspect even the small amount of STP used would mix with conventional break-in oil, thereby affecting the length of time piston rings would take to "wear-in".

I disregarded that advice when rebuilding my occasional Porsche 911 engine (among others), thinking the benefits would outweigh any negatives. Fortunately, unbeknownst to me, everything worked out well.

LN Engineering also brought up the oil measurement markings on Porsche dipsticks. It turns out, Porsche revised their dipstick lengths, even providing replacements.

When I rebuilt my first 911 engine, it was to replace valve guides, seals, and gaskets because of excess oil leaks and oil consumption. Little did I know until having the exact same problems, that dipstick had broken off at the end about ¾-inch!

[thinkxingu]

I pay $75 for full synthetic in my 4Runner every 5k miles. The oil and filter itself would be somewhere around $50, so it basically costs me $25 to simultaneously save two hours of my life and provide me an hour to read in a quiet, kid-free setting. Win-win!

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[garysanfran]

I have used Valvoline both in Laconia and San Francisco because of the convenience and they seem to service the vehicle well checking everything from battery, radiator, tire pressure, etc.

However, I have no knowledge of what kind of oils they use. I use their synthetic brand.

Any feedback on Valvoline? They weren't cheap. I think my 2002 Toyota Tacoma, synthetic, with their "discount" coupon was about $119.

My Tacoma was awoken from it's outdoor winter sleep last week. Put the battery in. Whamo...Started right up, as though it had never been stored. Takes me longer to recover from a nap

[fatlazyless]

The same synthetic, 5-qt oil & filter change, plus check/top fluids and tire air pressure would cost about $55 at the Walmart in Plymouth or Tilton. The Gilford Walmart does not do any car service. For an extra five bucks you can upgrade their Fram oil filter from bronze to gold for a longer lasting filter.

If you bought the tires at Walmart, then Walmart will rotate for no charge, otherwise it is $2.50/tire.

Before driving away suggest you check everything; windshield info sticker, tires, tire air caps, dip stick, engine oil cap to make sure its all good.

[SAB1]

Well yesterday I paid $145 for an oil change at local shop I have used for a few years. Prior oil change there was $105. So that's a price jump that crosses a line. I'll be going back to doing my own again. Walmart here I come!

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by SAB1

Well yesterday I paid $145 for an oil change at local shop I have used for a few years. Prior oil change there was $105. So that's a price jump that crosses a line. I'll be going back to doing my own again. Walmart here I come!

I always used Mobil 1, either from Walmart or Costco when it was on sale. Costco now has their own full synthetic oil at half the price of Mobil 1.
My Chevy truck takes 8 qts, I just bought 2-5qt bottles for $30. So my next oil change will cost me $35. Too bad there are no Costco's in the Lakes Region!

[tummyman]

I used to do mine as well, but stopped once they switched over to these insert type filters instead of the prior can type. The inserts are just so messy. Wish I could find a replacement that was the old type.

[WinnisquamZ]

With the introduction of synthetic oils the need to change one’s oil frequently as we once did decreases. Since the 70’s i have been every 5k miles. Easy to remember and allowed me to take three vehicles over 200k. Today, the wife’s car gets charged one a year with the inspection sticker. My truck, twice. Low mileage driving. My kid the wrench buys his oil at Costco when it’s on sale. Best price around


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[SAB1]

Yes mobile 1 in 5qt jugs at Walmart is a good price, agree. Prices of goods and services now a days is crazy
Not sure where we are going in this country but at somepoint it's not going to sustain itself and the fall is going to hurt .

[WinnisquamZ]

In my opinion, many will just change their lifestyle. Personal, we are on a fixed income. With the cost of living skyrocketing over the past three years we have changed. We did eat out four to five days a week. Now it’s two. Getaways reduced. Always bargain shopping with food and clothing. We did plan ahead so our expenses are minimal.
The cost of services are extremely high with little chance of dropping due to high energy and labor costs.
With that said, health is good, family is good. And living in the safest state in the Union helps (knock on wood)


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[John Mercier]

It is mostly labor.
What your are bulk buying at a Costco, the shops/dealers are bulk buying in either 55 gallon drums or pumped into a large storage tank from a tanker.

You will find that it various around the country... so what we are experiencing is somewhat different than what they are.

[SAB1]

Pretty much the same as you. Cut backs and reduced going out. Oil changes will add to that. I hate to use the word cheap but I find myself actually putting things back in stores simply because I won't pay the price they ask for the product even though I could afford it. Just can't justify some stuff.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

It is mostly labor.
What your are bulk buying at a Costco, the shops/dealers are bulk buying in either 55 gallon drums or pumped into a large storage tank from a tanker.

You will find that it various around the country... so what we are experiencing is somewhat different than what they are.

Full synthetic at $3 per quart is pretty cheap. When I left the business 3 1/2 years ago, I was paying that for synthetic blend in bulk.
The growing number of trucks and SUV's that have shields under the engine make oil changes slower thus requiring an increased labor charge.
Years ago, I could change oil and filter, check all the tires and top off all the fluids in 15 minutes on a lift. Some of the SUV's take that just to remove the shields, German vehicles esp..

[pondguy]

Originally Posted by SAB1

Pretty much the same as you. Cut backs and reduced going out. Oil changes will add to that. I hate to use the word cheap but I find myself actually putting things back in stores simply because I won't pay the price they ask for the product even though I could afford it. Just can't justify some stuff.

I prefer to call it frugal..

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by SAB1

Yes mobile 1 in 5qt jugs at Walmart is a good price, agree. Prices of goods and services now a days is crazy
Not sure where we are going in this country but at somepoint it's not going to sustain itself and the fall is going to hurt .

Surprisingly, Mobil 1 really hasn't gone up much in the past 15 years. There's just more competition, more companies making and selling synthetic oils at cheaper prices now. I've been using Mobil 1 for 50 years, when it was the only synthetic oil on the market.
I always bought Mobil 1 for my shop at Costco's. When they had it on sale it was cheaper than Walmart so I would load up on the sale price.
I'm fortunate to have a Costco a mile away from me in Waltham ma.

[WinnisquamZ]

Originally Posted by pondguy

I prefer to call it frugal..

My son refers to it as “cheap bastard”


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[SAB1]

Lol. When he's our age he will be one

[John Mercier]

Frugal is when someone does it themselves.
Cheap is when they expect someone else to do it for less.

[TheProfessor]

4 cylinder Toyota.

$120.00.

Synthetic.
Local mechanic/shop.

[WinnisquamZ]

Originally Posted by TheProfessor

4 cylinder Toyota.

$120.00.

Synthetic.
Local mechanic/shop.

Does that include tire rotation? Fair dealer price if it does


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[fatlazyless]

Price to do it myself with a 5-qt Castrol Edge, for engines over 75-k miles, $25.98, plus Fram tough guard oil filter, $$7.17, plus rotate tires, $0.00 ...... total $33.15 ..... and I probably get better oil and a better filter.

Rotating tires requires a good floor jack and at least one good jack stand.

Plus you get the experience of working on your car outside in the winter cold out in the driveway ...... .

[BroadHopper]

Occasionally have a coupon in the LaDaSun for $49.95 oil change. A bargain considering they use euro spec Castrol oil. Most European cars take 6 or more quarts, with the Porsche dry sump taking 7 or 8.
They even check all your fluids, and visual inspection underneath your chassis and under the hood! I think it is a bargain!

I can tell you horror stories of my own when going to places like Jiffy Lube, Quick Lane, and Valvoline Speedy Express.

For non-European cars, I recommend Neil's Laconia Garage.

[8gv]

Originally Posted by fatlazyless

Price to do it myself with a 5-qt Castrol Edge, for engines over 75-k miles, $25.98, plus Fram tough guard oil filter, $$7.17, plus rotate tires, $0.00 ...... total $33.15 ..... and I probably get better oil and a better filter.

Rotating tires requires a good floor jack and at least one good jack stand.

Plus you get the experience of working on your car outside in the winter cold out in the driveway ...... .

If you have a spare tire you can rotate your tires using one jack.

[Biggd]

As a retired mechanic, I still change my own oil. I always used Mobil 1 but with price increases I'm going with a cheaper synthetic.
I bought two 5qt containers of Kirkland synthetic oil at Costco for $30, $3 a qt! My GMC truck takes 8 qts, so that's about a $35 oil and filter change for me. My wife's car only takes 5 qts.

[ApS]

Originally Posted by 8gv

If you have a spare tire you can rotate your tires using one jack.

Such is so, but radial tires are "rotated" front-to-back. Bias tires are to be "rotated" in an "x" pattern. Also, don't use an old spare. (Say, older than five years).

A note just came up to read the ULAs (legal issues) for your new vehicle; however, I suspect only a few of us will be interested in your new vehicle's "limitations".


https://youtu.be/A_DmgjTfwD4?si=4ymuc5M0_6K-uSqN

[Skippermark]

Originally Posted by ApS

Such is so, but radial tires are "rotated" front-to-back. Bias tires are to be "rotated" in an "x" pattern. Also, don't use an old spare. (Say, older than five years).

Because of so many changes in the past few years to vehicle types and tire design, there's no longer a "one size fits all" answer for rotating tires. Things like drive train, 4 wheel or all wheel, front or real wheel drive, size of tires and directional or non directional all play a role in how they should be rotated.

ApS is totally correct in that you don't want to start adding a spare to the rotation if it has never been done before. Having one tire with a different amount of tread ware is not a good thing. That's usually why reputable shops won't replace one bad tire with a new one. All 4 usually need to be replaced.

Michelin has a good guide linked below, but the most important guide to follow is your vehicle's manual.

https://www.michelinman.com/auto/aut...o-rotate-tires

[fatlazyless]

Anti-seize, white lithium grease, or red tacky grease ....... what's best for the five lug bolts on each wheel when rotating the tires? Me-thinks it is anti-seize because the lug nuts and bolts do not move.

What gets used for grease on the lug bolts on my Subaru at a service business like Tilton Walmart or Belknap Subaru?

And, how tight to tighten them when using a 4-way universal lug wrench?

[8gv]

Originally Posted by ApS

Such is so, but radial tires are "rotated" front-to-back. Bias tires are to be "rotated" in an "x" pattern. Also, don't use an old spare. (Say, older than five years).

A note just came up to read the ULAs (legal issues) for your new vehicle; however, I suspect only a few of us will be interested in your new vehicle's "limitations".


https://youtu.be/A_DmgjTfwD4?si=4ymuc5M0_6K-uSqN

The spare is used as a way of keeping the car up while moving the other tires around. The last movement frees the spare so it can go back to where it is stored on the car.

[Biggd]

Originally Posted by 8gv

The spare is used as a way of keeping the car up while moving the other tires around. The last movement frees the spare so it can go back to where it is stored on the car.

Many cars have a mini spare or a full spare on a steel wheel that doesn't match the wheels on the car.
Personally, I just rotate them front to back every 10,000 miles or every other oil change.