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Old 11-12-2014, 07:14 PM   #1
songkrai
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Default Lakes Region - Where is a shop that does car oil undercoating?

Anyplace in the Lakes Region that does car/truck oil undercoating?

Want to prevent my car and truck from turning into a rust heap.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:01 PM   #2
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Latchkey Auto in Meredith. I've had them do 2 of my cars and they did a great job.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:15 PM   #3
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Default Environmental laws

Back in the days, my dad and my uncles use to coat all their construction vehicles with used crankcase oils before salt hit the roads. When DES outlawed using crankcase oils, they stop using it. In fact at the same time the town stop using crankcase oil on our dirt road. They used crankcase oil to keep the dust down.

So now you are saying they are allowing the use of oil on vehicles today?

Whatever happen to those rubber undercoating?
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:13 PM   #4
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My brother, a car mechanic who's been in the car industry since working for BMW in the early years (after his BS), swears by using automatic transmission fluid as a rust prevennor. No comment on environmental impact...
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:20 PM   #5
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I think now a days they use some sort of binding polymer. It lasts for a decade unlike the oil of old which had to be reapplied every year.
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:18 AM   #6
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The old undercoatings such as Zebart was crap, in fact the stuff used to crack over time trapping water and salt against areas you want to protect thus making things rust worse. Probably why it's not used anymore.

Oil undercoating works awesome, but not exactly eco friendly to some. Today there are several alternatives to using regular oil, probably the most popular is a product called fluid film.

I oil my own vehicles and have found that straight weight gear oil works the best. It doesn't drip terribly bad, doesn't attack plastic or rubber and once applied stands up well over the course of a year but I do re-apply it every year. It makes a huge difference.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:26 AM   #7
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Default Something different

Although oil undercoating may be less expensive 3M makes an excellent rubberized undercoating that is flexible and doesn't crack. One of the advantages is the additional sound deadening that you get. You can buy the 3M product in spray cans at auto supply stores and if you have a way to get your vehicle on a lift you could apply it yourself.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:35 AM   #8
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Default Wagner power painter

I too treat the underside of my old Ford truck about twice/yr.
I use a large, cheap tarp (throw it out when done), drive the truck on it and use an old Wagner power painter to spray the oil. Takes me about 20 minutes and Works great.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:34 AM   #9
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Default oil undercoating

I do a lot of oil undercoating. Fluid Film works ok, but is not cheap. I mix auto trans fluid with chainsaw bar oil. This mix lasts longer than anything else I have tried. If anyone says they can do the entire underside in half an hour they are not hitting all the frame, body, lines, ect. A good job takes time and is messy. I usually charge $150.oo and try to line up a couple to do together.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:23 AM   #10
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I've heard about ATF thinned with acetone works well. Thin it so a regular household spray bottle can spray it.
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Old 11-14-2014, 02:56 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by MOXIE View Post
I do a lot of oil undercoating. Fluid Film works ok, but is not cheap. I mix auto trans fluid with chainsaw bar oil. This mix lasts longer than anything else I have tried. If anyone says they can do the entire underside in half an hour they are not hitting all the frame, body, lines, ect. A good job takes time and is messy. I usually charge $150.oo and try to line up a couple to do together.
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I've tried both and I still think straight up gear oil wins out as the best. I do need to heat it up pretty good before applying it otherwise it won't spray. Driving down a nice dusty road after helps it stay stuck.
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Old 11-14-2014, 03:19 PM   #12
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Default Car Wash

Anyone knows of a commercial car wash that will also wash the bottom of your car? The nearest one that I know of is ManchVegas. It would be nice to have one in the Lakes Region to wash the salt off after an ice storm.
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:10 PM   #13
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I read these threads and often scratch my head. I have never oiled the under side of a vehicle. Never had an issue either.........

car#1 oldsmobile 1984 Delta 88 owned by my familiy for 10 years driven 200K miles and didn't have any issues....

car #2 1992 Buick Skylark, driven for 7 years, to 150K miles and didn't have any issues

car #3 1999 Buick Century driven for 5 years about 130K miles and didn't have any issues

car #4 2004 Chevy Silverado, driven for 7 years about 160K miles didn't have any issues

car #5 2006 Chevy Trailblazer, bought used had now for 3 years total of 120K miles and showing no issues.

Now am I just lucky? Or does routine washing through out the winter, and a heavy duty washing in the spring really help....

Most metals are treated these days during the construction of an automobile, the old techniques of oiling them doesn't seem to be needed. Not only do I see my track record, but also that of my father, brother, and other relatives and friends who gave up on the oiling of cars long ago....

Now I am not telling anyone to stop doing what makes them comfortable... just offering up an observation and opinion for others to chew on.... I drive my cars all winter long and put a considerable amount of miles on every year... I don't worry about treatment, I just run through the car wash at least twice a month through the winter, and do a hand cleaning in the spring.
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIforrelaxin View Post
I read these threads and often scratch my head. I have never oiled the under side of a vehicle. Never had an issue either.........

car#1 oldsmobile 1984 Delta 88 owned by my familiy for 10 years driven 200K miles and didn't have any issues....

car #2 1992 Buick Skylark, driven for 7 years, to 150K miles and didn't have any issues

car #3 1999 Buick Century driven for 5 years about 130K miles and didn't have any issues

car #4 2004 Chevy Silverado, driven for 7 years about 160K miles didn't have any issues

car #5 2006 Chevy Trailblazer, bought used had now for 3 years total of 120K miles and showing no issues.

Now am I just lucky? Or does routine washing through out the winter, and a heavy duty washing in the spring really help....

Most metals are treated these days during the construction of an automobile, the old techniques of oiling them doesn't seem to be needed. Not only do I see my track record, but also that of my father, brother, and other relatives and friends who gave up on the oiling of cars long ago....

Now I am not telling anyone to stop doing what makes them comfortable... just offering up an observation and opinion for others to chew on.... I drive my cars all winter long and put a considerable amount of miles on every year... I don't worry about treatment, I just run through the car wash at least twice a month through the winter, and do a hand cleaning in the spring.
I'm with you on this. Haven't had a rust issue with any car I've owned in the past few decades. I use a car wash with an undercarriage rinse in the winter, and in the spring, use a hose to thoroughly rinse the undercarriage.
Some car models were prone to rust and there is just about nothing you could do for those. I've never owned one of the rust prone vehicles.
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:03 PM   #15
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Finally something I can do with that used motor oil. Seriously, I can't just pour the oil in the lake but I can spray it on my car and let the rain and snow wash it in the lake.

Now if I can just find a way to dump my trash out the car window a little at a time and save all those trips to the dump.

You guys are so much fun, I though you were serious.
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:25 PM   #16
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Default oil and rust

I repair a lot of rusted frames, brake lines, ect. Since the New England states have been using calcium chloride with salt, the rust issues have gotten worse.
Not everyone can afford to drive cars and trucks that are newer than 10yrs. Some cars have rust resistant brake lines but not all.
To; jcr about oil in the lake, How many 2stroke outboards are on the lake?? For every 50 gallons of gas they burn, they dump 1 gallon of oil directly in the lake. I don,t like it any more than you do.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:31 AM   #17
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I repair a lot of rusted frames, brake lines, ect. Since the New England states have been using calcium chloride with salt, the rust issues have gotten worse.
Not everyone can afford to drive cars and trucks that are newer than 10yrs. Some cars have rust resistant brake lines but not all.
To; jcr about oil in the lake, How many 2stroke outboards are on the lake?? For every 50 gallons of gas they burn, they dump 1 gallon of oil directly in the lake. I don,t like it any more than you do.
MOXIE
I understand that many people can't afford new cars... I haven't always had new cars.... most of the cars I mention I bought used. Except of course my 2004 Silverado....

Things like brake lines and exhaust which fail due to corrosion, are part of normal maintenance on an older vehicle yes oiling those may get another year or two, but I think that most often you will find this practice doesn't buy you much more time. All cars I mentioned above had original brake lines and they where still in good condition.

The frame of the car is what you are most concerned with preserving... once again this is where regular undercarriage washes through out the winter pay off. Oiling may slow the rust some, but it isn't going to prevent it....

Last where did you get your figure of 50 gallons of gas equals 1 gallon of oil into the lake for a two stroke engine.... This is false.... I see your basing the idea on the ratio for most 2 stroke engines of 50:1..... The truth is the oil is mixed with the gas and burned. If someone is seeing large quantities of oil coming out of there two stroke exhaust something is wrong. I will admit two strokes aren't the most environmentally friendly engines. But they are not polluting machines either.

Bottom line here don't use a scare tactic, not based in FACT, to justify the practice of oiling the undercarriage of a car. Done right and away from the lake I don't have an issue with people oiling the underside of the car.... because yes a crap load of oil from roadways finds it ways into the water regardless. I just don't think it is necessary or as effective as people want to believe.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:45 AM   #18
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Last where did you get your figure of 50 gallons of gas equals 1 gallon of oil into the lake for a two stroke engine.... This is false.... I see your basing the idea on the ratio for most 2 stroke engines of 50:1..... The truth is the oil is mixed with the gas and burned. If someone is seeing large quantities of oil coming out of there two stroke exhaust something is wrong. I will admit two strokes aren't the most environmentally friendly engines. But they are not polluting machines either.
I love it when someone questions someone else's comment stating that they don't have any facts, and then they give their own opinion without any facts.

I would like to see where you get your facts that 2 stroke engines aren't polluting machines.
I don't know if they are or if they aren't, but if you are going to ask for other members facts then you need to provide us with some facts also.

Prove it that "this is false" about what MOXIE stated.
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Old 11-15-2014, 11:17 AM   #19
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Default rust

Facts or "Scare Tactics". I could care less if I ever oil another frame. It is the messiest job I do. It does not pay enough. I am positive that if you take down the front splash shield on your 04 Silverado and look at where the brake lines are secured to the frame with plastic clips, you will find a good bit of rust. I have a 03 2500hd (never plowed) and I just replaced all the lines (fuel lines also).
As far as 2stokes go, Watch a 2stroke start up cold, the smoke you see is not all heat. It is burnt oil, guess where it settles down too.
I don,t want to start a beef and I would not have responded to your reply, but your FACTS are false. Let it go, I refuse to go into a war just because I was invited. Peace My Friend, MOXIE
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:34 PM   #20
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Default Facts?

According to the article referenced below, up to 30% of 2-cycle oil is discharged into the water.

http://www.ukmarinesac.org.uk/activi...ion/r03_01.htm
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:38 PM   #21
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According to the article referenced below, up to 30% of 2-cycle oil is discharged into the water.

http://www.ukmarinesac.org.uk/activi...ion/r03_01.htm
I like the effort but lets try and find something a little more recent...

The UK Marine SACs Project website was a vehicle for communicating and distributing the learning, knowledge and outputs from the UK Marine SACs Project to its wider audience. Since the project was completed in 2001, this website has been closed and all its documents and background information can now be accessed through the UKMPA Centre.
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:51 PM   #22
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Not to mention that even at 30%, probably the absolutely worst example, it would still only be 1/3 gallon for 50 instead of 1, which is a sizeable difference.
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:10 PM   #23
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1st... Moxie I don't intend to cause a war feud or anything of the sort...

2nd.... I never claimed facts... I said don't use tactics not based in fact

3rd..... Based on an article posted here 30% of oil from a two stroke makes it to water.... so 30% of a gallon, is 70% less then 1 gallon.... and at 30% with an older outboard I would agree that this could be true....I argue that this is a huge difference.

So, my definition of a scare tactic, is taking a fact and glorifying it for a purpose.... And as I stated, outboards are not polluting machines.... they are not the best for the environment... and probably about as bad for environment as oiling ones car.......

I actually have no problem with the practice of oiling cars, I just don't see it as necessary.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:33 PM   #24
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Default brake lines

I have a Dakota pickup, olds minivan and a jeep that have had numerous brake lines replaced and the frames are in good shape. had an old Isuzu pickup with a rotted frame but the brake lines never needed replacement.
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:40 PM   #25
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Any Internal Combustion Engine that is fed by fossil fuel is a polluting machine.

Now back on topic.

I wouldn't waste too much time or money on undercoating any vehicle that you have. Most vehicle frames are coated with something when they are new and will last long enough before you get sick of the vehicle and trade it in.
IMO anyway.
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:44 PM   #26
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I have a Dakota pickup, olds minivan and a jeep that have had numerous brake lines replaced and the frames are in good shape. had an old Isuzu pickup with a rotted frame but the brake lines never needed replacement.
Yep.... fully agree things rot and rust differently..... Toyota Trucks where once known for the beds rotting....
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:28 PM   #27
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My 99 F250 around town/ plow truck has 204K on it. it definitely has taken a rust hit since Moultonborough switched to all salt (Magic Salt, I believe). I have to go under it this winter and repair cab corners and bottom of doors and rockers. It is a 7.3 diesel 6 speed truck which are not available any longer so I hope to milk 5 more years out of it!

It is also parked in my heated Morton building in the winter with the plow on it. I have a feeling that is causing some of the problem as well with heat speeding up the process as opposed to sitting there semi frozen in my driveway. So I may look you up for next winter, Moxie!!
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:03 PM   #28
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I catch a lot of grief for oiling my vehicles but I really don't care. It does work and no amount of washing in the winter will protect your vehicle as well as oil will. It's not just protecting the underside, but protecting the body from rusting too.

Crawl up under my truck and the thing looks as new, no rust anywhere. Really the only way to appreciate just how good it works is to take a look at one that has been treated vs one that hasn't. The older they are the more stark the difference is. I work on my own vehicles and keep them a long time, I do it because I hate dealing with rust and corrosion, and the oiling prevents all that from ever starting.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:28 AM   #29
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I'm still trying to figure out whether people are serious or not? I've never heard of doing this either... Even if you did do this I would think it rinses off the first drive taken on a rainy day with all the tire spray getting underneath.
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:22 AM   #30
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I'm still trying to figure out whether people are serious or not? I've never heard of doing this either... Even if you did do this I would think it rinses off the first drive taken on a rainy day with all the tire spray getting underneath.
Yes people really do this, and have been doing so for years..... There are those that swear by it. I figure if it makes you feel better have at it.... But I don't see it as necessary.

Beside oil, there used to be other spray on applications etc, which where claimed to have been effective... I seem to recall seeing cars with stickers claiming to be treated with "Rusty Jones".....

I think the bottom line for most of this is that you do have to apply yearly........
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:05 AM   #31
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Default Auto Body Pros

A number of my friends are reputable auto body repairs. They basically say salt is inevitable. A chassis wash after a salt storm in above freezing temperature is about the only way to go. Oil baths, undercoating just prolong the rust.
The new technology of protecting the paint is great as long as you don't have a scratch. The bottom of the vehicle get scoured away by gravel etc.
I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Limited that had the bottom spray painted with chassis paint about 6 years ago when my mechanic saw signs of rust. I still have that beauty. Now the sheet metal is beginning to show rust pits on the top and sides of the Jeep. The chassis is fine.
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:57 PM   #32
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I do frame oiling for $149 / car, $199 / truck

I use Fluid-film mixed with wax.
Its EPA friendly.

I'm located in New Hampton.

Call Today! 603-937-7110
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:28 PM   #33
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Default Wish I'd listened....

Wish I'd listened to my mechanic who kept telling me I should oil my truck (but of course it was probably too late by the time he started bugging me).

Bought a 2003 Ram 2500 new... I drove it sparingly because it got 13mpg and was a beast to park. Mostly needed it to pull boats, horses and to plow my driveway... I was constantly fighting things rusting out underneath. Brake lines, e break cables, oil pans, shocks, multiple brake jobs... Then it needed new exhaust from the manifolds on back. Nobody would even give me a firm price on it because the manifold bolts were barely there, but is was going to be multiple thousands even in the best case.

I gave up and traded it in with 26k miles on it (not for another Dodge you can bet........). I couldn't bring myself to honestly sell it myself.

Good thing my boat lives at a marina now.
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:53 PM   #34
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Default 1998 Dodge Dakota

4X4 SLT with 2000 lb rear end, Trailer Tow Package and Heavy Duty engine package on a 318 served me well through the years. Recently pulled a 25' boat from Maryland for a friend. Deliver a ton of pellets every year from Tilton Home Depot. Best truck I ever had with about 160K on the clock.

The bed has Rhino lining and the chassis has POR-15 chassis paint. Good for another ten years!
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:27 AM   #35
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Wish I'd listened to my mechanic who kept telling me I should oil my truck (but of course it was probably too late by the time he started bugging me).

Bought a 2003 Ram 2500 new... I drove it sparingly because it got 13mpg and was a beast to park. Mostly needed it to pull boats, horses and to plow my driveway... I was constantly fighting things rusting out underneath. Brake lines, e break cables, oil pans, shocks, multiple brake jobs... Then it needed new exhaust from the manifolds on back. Nobody would even give me a firm price on it because the manifold bolts were barely there, but is was going to be multiple thousands even in the best case.

I gave up and traded it in with 26k miles on it (not for another Dodge you can bet........). I couldn't bring myself to honestly sell it myself.

Good thing my boat lives at a marina now.
Your not the only person I know that has had issues with a RAM.... One Buddy had a flat and couldn't get the tire off, because of corrosion and rust.... Another buddy had issues with the Front end suspension going to crap...I could go on but I will not.... Dodge, cheapened their product to survive for a while, back in hte early 2000s
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:19 PM   #36
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Pics prove my point, the vehicle pictured is 11 years old and is oiled every year and nothing pictured is doctored or has been refinished, this is all original. I rest my case. Anyone who says it doesn't work doesn't know what they are talking about.

One other point, it's not just the undercarriage that gets done, it's the inside of all the body panels too, inside the doors, hood, tailgate etc... so instead of over time getting rot in the door seams and body pinch points the oil bleeds into them and they repel water and salt.

Just sayin...
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:21 PM   #37
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Oh and it is a bit extra gooey because I just blasted this thing last weekend with a fresh coating of oil.
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:42 PM   #38
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Looks awesome... wish I had been doing it.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:38 PM   #39
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Default oiling

It takes time to do it right. On 2000 Chevy and up I pull the inner wheel wells, to get to the inside of the fender. I did one the other day that had mud packed in so deep I hade to brush it out and wash it. I always pull all shields and skid plates. If I am going to make a mess, I might as well do it 100%.
That's why I try to line up a couple to do together, when I get home I am in the shower for an hour. MOXIE
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:02 PM   #40
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I'm still trying to figure out whether people are serious or not? I've never heard of doing this either... Even if you did do this I would think it rinses off the first drive taken on a rainy day with all the tire spray getting underneath.
The old Yankees in NH have been doing this for many decades. So yes, it is real. It is also legal to dispel those rumors.

Just spoke with a local who I know - he purchased a 2000 something Ford F150 Extended Cab 4X4 with an 8 foot bed 8 years ago. A rare and more expensive truck. He travels to Manchester for inspections at a shop where he knows the owner. He does get inspection stickers. But even this place/shop told him this year was the last year for an inspection sticker for his truck. The truck still looks somewhat nice but the frame is rotted. No, not in good enough condition to replace/fix frame. At about $30,000 plus at time of purchase - now worthless - except for a parts vehicle.
New one coming next year at a cost of another $30,000 plus.

No, he doesn't believe in oil undercoating. You see, new vehicles don't rust. That's what the new truck salesman told him.
Maybe he will get another Ford truck - all aluminum alloy on the body - but no, not the frame.

Human nature is quite interesting. Some believe - some don't and will never.
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Old 06-09-2015, 06:07 PM   #41
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I just bought a 2015 F250 CCLB. Before I picked it up I had it undercoated in...Belmont I want to say. I have friends that use bar and chain oil. I paid something like $400 to have it done with FluidFilm. Every year I'll go back for a touch up and its $100. I also want to Line-X the bed along with the bottom 6" of the body. That's about $3000 to have done. Sort of wished I financed that in with the purchase of the truck.

As far as it washing it off, its fine. It repels the water. I do wash my truck once a week and use the pressure washer. I do the manual wash because the auto wash may knock off all the FluidFilm.
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Old 06-18-2015, 12:47 PM   #42
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I catch a lot of grief for oiling my vehicles but I really don't care. It does work and no amount of washing in the winter will protect your vehicle as well as oil will. It's not just protecting the underside, but protecting the body from rusting too.

Crawl up under my truck and the thing looks as new, no rust anywhere. Really the only way to appreciate just how good it works is to take a look at one that has been treated vs one that hasn't. The older they are the more stark the difference is. I work on my own vehicles and keep them a long time, I do it because I hate dealing with rust and corrosion, and the oiling prevents all that from ever starting.
Amen!
I have a 96 Ford F-250 Crew cab with 102k. (Almost 20 years old) that I bought 4 years ago. I put a lot of work into the engine and I want it to last 20 more if possible. It is not my primary vehicle and sits a lot. I'd love to be able to buy a new one every few years but can't.
Oiling the undercarriage stops further rusting, protects my investment and makes it much, much easier for me to work on. (Fasteners stay in good condition). The impact on the environment is minimal compared to a 6500lb truck going to the crusher prematurely because of rust IMHO.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:02 AM   #43
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When going down a dirt road specially right after it's done doesn't it all gunk up with sand, dust and pebbles?
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:23 PM   #44
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When going down a dirt road specially right after it's done doesn't it all gunk up with sand, dust and pebbles?
They actually recommend to do this right after the oil undercoating. Helps keep the oil in place. So this is a good idea.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:31 PM   #45
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Didn't want to go through 40 posts, but Ace Transmission on Rte 11 in Farmington, near the intersection with Spring St, has a sign on the side of the road advertising oil undercoating.

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Old 09-19-2015, 04:52 PM   #46
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The frame of the car is what you are most concerned with preserving... once again this is where regular undercarriage washes through out the winter pay off. Oiling may slow the rust some, but it isn't going to prevent it....
Guess you are one of the "lucky" ones.

My pickup truck is 25 years old and still looks new. Thanks to oil undercoating and paste wax once or twice per year.

Too many never view the bottom of their vehicles. Rust starts day one.
My mechanic shop has two bays. When I get my vehicles serviced I look underneath my vehicle and any others that are in shop. It is amazing what the others look like underneath. Full of rust. The body may still be pretty.
Sadly, few customers look underneath their vehicles.

Yes, now the manufacturers do paint the inside of door panels. That does help.
Washing does help.

Bottom line, I see $25,000-$50,000 cars/suvs/trucks with lots of rust on the bottom.

The oil does prevent this.

And a clean underneath helps when time comes to sell or trade.

How many people even wax their cars anymore?

Yes, some have the fortune to buy a new vehicle every 3-7 years. And that is wonderful for them.
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Old 09-02-2016, 07:29 PM   #47
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Some have stated that cars don't rust anymore.

If these folks had the oil undercoating done or the Fluid Film. There would be no rust.





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Old 09-04-2016, 06:41 AM   #48
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.....gotta wonder....does www.irwinautobody.com do rustproofing or undercoating or whatever you call it?
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:26 PM   #49
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.....gotta wonder....does www.irwinautobody.com do rustproofing or undercoating or whatever you call it?
I don't know about Irwin, but Cantin Chevrolet does it with Fluid Film. I have them do a touch-up treatment on my Silverado each year.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:23 AM   #50
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Default fogging oil

I use outboard fogging oil, works great for me
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Old 07-08-2017, 09:51 PM   #51
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Latchkey auto repair Meredith

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Old 09-14-2021, 01:08 PM   #52
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For something like $150 to $250 depending on the size of your car or pickup truck, Buskey's Auto Repair, 89 Main St, Ashland NH will undercoat it using www.woolwaxusa.com

This stuff supposedly will stick to it and last a long long long time ........ so go to BUSKEY'S to get it WOOL-WAXED with Wool Wax lanolin undercoat ...... the good stuff! .... a wool grease coating on raw sheep wool which will make your car say ......"NOT TOO BAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaD ..... that Wool Wax!"
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:24 PM   #53
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Funny to see an old thread like this resurrected and all the various postings.

Some interesting things to consider.

Having worked in the automotive industry in my youth for many years, I have seen many of the recommendations used with varying degrees of success.

In the end the one that is probably most accurate today (not so in the past) is that you probably dont need to do anything to a modern car except to go through a car wash that does undercarriage washing on a regular basis.

One thing to absolutely avoid is used motor oil. During the process if lubricating your motor, its oil becomes contaminated with acids, acids that will actually compete with the oil to rust your car. It will literally depend on whether the inhibitors added to the oil are still effective or not. Hard used oil will not be a good choice.

Some of the other solutions are novel, but not really good choices. Some have solvents in them making detrimental to your goal. Some are too "thin" and will just run off quickly, and in truth all oils will simply run off over time and need to be reapplied regularly.

Old school rubberized or tar-like products do exactly as someone said, they trap water and cause rust. Not really a good choice overall.

Fluid Film and other similar products work reasonably well if you can really get it applied in the nooks and crannies, but you will still have to re-apply them at some point.

Most interesting is that the majority of what is discussed is not chemically engineered as a rust inhibitor or metal protectant.

Rust inhibitors have varying success over time, and metal protectants are limited by the condition of the metal at the time of application and the viscosity and "waxiness" of the material.

At one job in a machine shop we used a thin waxy oil coating to protect recently machined bare metal. It offered a good shelf life of maybe a year.

And anyone who has seen military or marine metal items stored knows the value of cosmoline. Thats is probably the very best spray-on option you will find and the biggest nightmare to get off you will encounter. Maybe second to cosmoline is LPS #3, its really good stuff. Both are pricey. Fluid film and others are good and less of a pain to remove should you need to.

So many good products out there like Waxoline and others, but in the end I am not 100% convinced you are almost better to just wash it as often in the winter as weather will allow and just get the salt off and let dry before the next freeze. If thats not going to be an option then shop around for one of the better products, but not used motor oil.
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Old 09-15-2021, 08:20 AM   #54
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Regular washing of a vehicle is just about all one can do. Today's cars are must less rust-prone than cars decades ago.

I talk to reliable auto body techs and they say the same, regular washes. They all share the same wisdom, wash your car during the winter months when temperatures are above freezing. The water will have a chance to dry off.

As for the car washes with a bottom wash, you must drive the car in slowly for the bottom wash to do its job. Many folks just drive right in while the bottom wash is still spraying in the back of the car.

If you want a bottom treatment, call German Motorsport in Gilford. They have a technician that specializes in undercoating.
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Old 09-15-2021, 10:57 AM   #55
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Mike, the boss at New World Auto, 176 Main St, Plymouth installed a trailer hitch on my new-used 2014 Subaru just yesterday and I asked him to take a good look at the rust situation while he had it up on the lift. He said that this Subaru was factory rust proofed/coated by Subaru and it was in totally rust-free excellent shape. At the same time, he says taking it to Buskey's in Ashland for their $200 Wool Wax undercoat would be good, long term, because Wool Wax is a product that lasts and extra rust proofing is a good ting ...... oops ...... make that thing. .....

Seems like every other car in the lakes region is a Subaru ...... any Subaru owners have any experience they wish to share on getting it under-coated?

Subaru translated from Japanese really means "super high priced dealer parts & labor" so's you better protect it from that rust! ...
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Old 09-21-2021, 08:24 AM   #56
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In the end the one that is probably most accurate today (not so in the past) is that you probably dont need to do anything to a modern car except to go through a car wash that does undercarriage washing on a regular basis.
Not sure what planet some folks live on.

New vehicles start to rust the moment they leave the factory floor. Even the aluminum Ford trucks have a steel frame and steel components.

Know of two fellas who had to junk their pickup trucks - one Ford, one GMC, because of frame rust. Of course other rust on body. If those two trucks had been oil undercoated on a regular basis they would still be on the road.

The concept that new cars/trucks has secret special metal and secret special paint is absurd.

In addition to common rock salt used today there is the highly corrosive liquid brine added to the roadways.

Yes, if one washed their vehicle after every time it snows might help a little. But reality is that most don't do this.

Apparently, the pictures above of rust don't sink in to some.
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Old 09-21-2021, 08:41 AM   #57
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Trucks Trends in Tilton


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Old 09-21-2021, 08:52 AM   #58
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Trucks Trends in Tilton
Do they use Line-X super tough truck bed liner for the undercoating?
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Old 09-21-2021, 08:58 AM   #59
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Letís not get silly. Had both the bed liner and oil coat completed by them in June. Very happy with the results


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Old 09-21-2021, 09:21 AM   #60
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How much it cost for Truck Trends - Tilton to undercoat a 2014 Crosstrek, and do they know what the heck they are doing?

Isn't it best to get this done when the outdoor temperature and humidity is good for drying the undercoat similar to drying a paint job?
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Old 09-21-2021, 09:45 AM   #61
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How would I know what it would cost to get your POS done. Yes, having it done in the summer did result in many drip makes in my driveway. But, I was made aware of it by them


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Old 09-21-2021, 11:32 AM   #62
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...... www.trucktrendsnh.com/undercoating ..... best to go there and find out price and take a look at what they do do!

Out of 289 Google reviews they show just five cherry-picked reviews with five stars which most likely are written and posted by a ringer ..... like by the Line-X franchise owner.

So, how much you pay to get the truck undercoated and how long does it last? Is it a brand new truck?
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Old 09-21-2021, 01:29 PM   #63
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......

So, how much you pay to get the truck undercoated and how long does it last? Is it a brand new truck?
Oil undercoating or Fluid Film or any other name the installer wishes to use.
All are done annually. Whether a new vehicle or an old vehicle.
Can be done any time of year.

Costs vary from installer to installer. But somewhere near $200 - 250.00.

The place in Vermont does oil undercoating for around $150.00. But can vary with cost of materials.
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