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Old 08-31-2021, 11:56 AM   #1
J9lake
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Default Dock stain maintenance

Can anyone refer a company that can strip our dock of the existing stain and reseal it? Existing stain continues to come off on shoes and skin and tracked onto boat and house.
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Old 08-31-2021, 01:44 PM   #2
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You can't use a chemical to strip it over water. You could try to sand it, but need something dustless to keep it from ending up in the water.

Where are you located? I have someone in mind depending on where you are.
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Old 08-31-2021, 02:33 PM   #3
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Default New PT?

If this is new pressure treated decking you may want to wait a season before re-coating. I agree with Codeman--anything involving chemicals is something to be avoided. Perhaps theres a ay to better dry the existing stain and let it weather away or soak into the decking? Maybe the original painter/installer has an idea?
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Old 08-31-2021, 04:08 PM   #4
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Its best to try and encapsulate the dock the best you can by getting an absorbent tarp draped over a canoe or hanging it under the dock. One drop of stain can effect 180,000 gallons of water so care should be taken.
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Old 08-31-2021, 10:45 PM   #5
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Not much info here. It would be helpful to know when, what stain was originally applied.
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Old 08-31-2021, 11:28 PM   #6
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I will bet it is oil.
Acrylic tends to flake.

But the OP doesn't state if it is sticky or flaking.
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Old 09-01-2021, 10:06 PM   #7
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Thanks all. Iím unsure of what was used or who did the work. We bought the house this way. Can try to find out. Message received about taking care of chemicals around the lake - priority #1


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Old 09-01-2021, 11:01 PM   #8
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Is it sticky? Flaking? Or just a powder residue?

That would tell me if it was oil, acrylic deck stain, or possibly even the misuse of acrylic siding stain.
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Old 09-01-2021, 11:29 PM   #9
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Default Good questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Mercier View Post
Is it sticky? Flaking? Or just a powder residue?

That would tell me if it was oil, acrylic deck stain, or possibly even the misuse of acrylic siding stain.
The OP has not responded. That tells me he applied the first coat of stain that he now wants to remove. As noted earlier, probably on fresh PT, and over the water. If that's wrong, he should post details and let us help. There's a lot of expertise here, n on-critical, but we all need to know what the real situation is.
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Old 09-02-2021, 12:33 PM   #10
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Default What would you recommend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Mercier View Post
Is it sticky? Flaking? Or just a powder residue?

That would tell me if it was oil, acrylic deck stain, or possibly even the misuse of acrylic siding stain.
John Mercier.... we have a 30 year oil PT Pine deck. Our deck was stained 4 years ago with two coats undercoat and two top coats with Cabot latex solid stain. Last year it started to peel. This year it is a mess. Flaking everywhere. We sanded it all off with a rental edger. Down to bare wood. Tough work. But got 98% off the pine boards. Wood is in great shape. We plan on using Storm semi transparent oil stain with two coats. Are we doing the right thing? What would you do?
We appreciate your expertise advise?
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Old 09-02-2021, 03:55 PM   #11
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https://maddogprimer.com/

Hit the bare PT with this stuff. Mad Dog Dura Prime Stabilizing Bonding primer.

Well worth the $
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Old 09-02-2021, 07:19 PM   #12
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Latex would need to be stripped... so you either had to sand or chemically strip.
Any residual latex will create a barrier for the oil to sink in, so get off as much as you can.

Oil should be a single coat.
Some cans will have instructions for maintenance coats... but those are not done right off. It will be future coat instructions usually done yearly based on water not beading on the surface. Should a water test bead, you skip the maintenance coat application until it fails the test. When it beads, there is nowhere for the oil to sink into.

Always run the applicator the entire length of a board after application to avoid lap marks, and never let the stain pool... it will get sticky and never dry.

Oil, unlike latex, will not need to be stripped or sanded off for many years.
It will only require it as the deck boards become uneven (sanding) or dark due to inactive mold spores being trapped to the point that the deck looks ''dirty'' (sand or strip).

Be careful with used rags and applicators, as oil - especially penetrating oils - dispose of them as stated on the can.
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Old 09-02-2021, 10:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Mercier View Post
Latex would need to be stripped... so you either had to sand or chemically strip.
Any residual latex will create a barrier for the oil to sink in, so get off as much as you can.

Oil should be a single coat.
Some cans will have instructions for maintenance coats... but those are not done right off. It will be future coat instructions usually done yearly based on water not beading on the surface. Should a water test bead, you skip the maintenance coat application until it fails the test. When it beads, there is nowhere for the oil to sink into.

Always run the applicator the entire length of a board after application to avoid lap marks, and never let the stain pool... it will get sticky and never dry.

Oil, unlike latex, will not need to be stripped or sanded off for many years.
It will only require it as the deck boards become uneven (sanding) or dark due to inactive mold spores being trapped to the point that the deck looks ''dirty'' (sand or strip).

Be careful with used rags and applicators, as oil - especially penetrating oils - dispose of them as stated on the can.
Oh NO! You have to read the instructions???
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Old 09-02-2021, 11:34 PM   #14
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Warranties tend to be very specific... as to temperature applied, surface preparation, and time to cure before rainfall... but I notice that many miss the disposal aspects after the job is considered complete.

We used to sell Penofin. I decided that we would care the Red Label Ultra... it was a superior product that I used myself for as long as I could get it.

But it was very specific in the disposal of all waste rags/product. They were to be moistened and resealed in an empty metal can before disposal.
They could ignite.
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