Oil versus Kerosene

[bigdog]

Can folks comment on the advantages/disadvantages between Oil heat and Kerosene?

I have been told that Kerosene is more expensive that oil, however, it burns
a lot more cleaner and almost 100% combustible.

What are the oil prices around the Lake compared to kerosene.
This may affect my future home purchase options.

Thanks!
Bigdog

[Puckster]

The difference is that Kerosene does not gel in the wintertime like heating oil #2 does. The only time people use Kero instead of H#2 is if they have an outside storage take for the oil.

[bigdog]

Reposting for more responses. Thanks!

Can folks comment on the advantages/disadvantages between Oil heat and Kerosene?

I have been told that Kerosene is more expensive that oil, however, it burns
a lot more cleaner and almost 100% combustible.

What are the oil prices around the Lake compared to kerosene.
This may affect my future home purchase options.

Thanks!
Bigdog

[Kamper]

I think kero can only be stored outside. I might be wrong on this though.

With oil you have a choice but only for a summer use system since the oil could gel as suggested above. I think the temp has to get somewhere around zero for that to happen but again I'm not sure. There are additives that will lower the problem zone but they have to be added shortly before the tank is filled for proper mixing.

If a more knowledgable member does not weigh in you should check with a fuel supplier for those facts if they're relevant to your decision.

Good luck!

[Audiofn]

I was told that Kar. burns hotter and cleaner then heating oil. You do have to adjust the burner for it to optomize for this. Kar. is more expensive by about 30 cents a gallon from what I have seen. IMO maintenence is lower with the kar. as it is cleaner so you get longer life with your filters and nozzles.

[ITD]

Kerosene is more expensive than fuel oil and is used in situations where the tank is exposed to cold temperatures. Fuel oil gels at colder temperatures. Pound for pound kerosene has less energy than No. 2 Fuel oil and is generally more expensive. Because it has less energy you have to use more of it to get the same amount of heat, although the amount isn't that great. 139,000 btu's for #2 fuel oil 135,000 for kerosene.

As far as "burning cleaner", I don't know if that is true or not but regardless an oil burner needs to be cleaned annually (change filters and nozzle) and adjusted to minimize soot which makes the boiler or furnace less efficient. Bottom line, I would burn the cheapest fuel if gelling isn't a problem.

[beanman]

I have had both oil and Kerosene - the comment concerning freeze temps is accurate as well as Kerosene burning cleaner and therefore, less maintenance
is required.

I recently changed from a monitor brand direct vent to a toyoyomiusa; and I am very impressed with the quality of the new one. I did a good deal of research before making the decision and found that toyoyomiusa is cheaper for initial purchase and better in quality (fuel consuption, reliability, workmanship and
ease of personal maintenance),

http://www.toyotomiusa.com/products/...ters/OM-22.php

Toyoyomiusa will tell you that running Kerosene will extend the life of heater by as much as 50% before any kind of maintenance is required.....


Beanman

[hazmatmedic]

Bigdog,

I'm glad to see people helping, but every post so far has had erroneous information. I really suggest you talk to any number of suppliers in your area. They are more than willing to offer information regarding HVAC. And, if you are buying a house, your "future" supplier will inspect your heating service and let you know how efficient it is. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it's any good.
The techs see thousands of homes and they know what works and what doesn't work. Home inspectors are normally not as well versed in home heating as they think they are.

Here are the corrections:
Current difference in price in k-1 and #2 = @ $0.75
k-1 is @ 142,000 btus and #2 is 138,000 btus (averages)
k-1 can be stored inside, it is used for fuel specific appliances and for its lower cloud point or flow and higher btu's.
usage and appliance type determines whether k-1 will be less maintenance. Cleanings will still be needed for both fuels.
k-1 or #2 are not 100% combustible.

[ITD]

Originally Posted by hazmatmedic

Bigdog,

I'm glad to see people helping, but every post so far has had erroneous information. I really suggest you talk to any number of suppliers in your area. They are more than willing to offer information regarding HVAC. And, if you are buying a house, your "future" supplier will inspect your heating service and let you know how efficient it is. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it's any good.
The techs see thousands of homes and they know what works and what doesn't work. Home inspectors are normally not as well versed in home heating as they think they are.

Here are the corrections:
Current difference in price in k-1 and #2 = @ $0.75
k-1 is @ 142,000 btus and #2 is 138,000 btus (averages)
k-1 can be stored inside, it is used for fuel specific appliances and for its lower cloud point or flow and higher btu's.
usage and appliance type determines whether k-1 will be less maintenance. Cleanings will still be needed for both fuels.
k-1 or #2 are not 100% combustible.

Sorry haz, but just about every chart I can find shows Fuel oil #2 with more btus per gallon than kerosene. Of course kerosene can be stored indoors but paying more money for less energy doesn't make sense to me. The money saved with the "dirtier" fuel could easily pay for additional cleanings. (500 gals per season X $0.70 = $350.00)

Here is a link to a Cornell paper that has a pretty good explanation on how to compare different fuels.

http://housing.cce.cornell.edu/f-sht...at%20fuels.pdf

[bigdog]

Thanks everyone for all the great feedback and links to additional resources.
Much appreciated !

Bigdog