Bad Sea Doo Day

[beantownbaby]

Our 2016 sea doo quit and then sank. Thankfully NOT in 200 ft. Deep water, only in a channel. After analysis it turns out to be a resonator that over heated and melted a hole in the exhaust area. The mechanic can not find a cause, no clogged intake etc. my question is, does anyone have a similar experience or suggestion for how I trust this won't happen again if I were to pull in something unseen just below the surface? How can they build this machine with low level melt able parts in areas that are at risk of high heat?!! Thanks for any suggestions.

[beantownbaby]

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[Hillcountry]

Originally Posted by beantownbaby

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Sorry to hear...hopefully, being a 2016 model, it's under warranty!
I have no experience with them except once when I was trying to ride an ex girlfriend's machine, it too, started to sink.

[Winnisquamer]

Originally Posted by beantownbaby

How can they build this machine with low level melt able parts in areas that are at risk of high heat?!! .

Cost savings. Using the proper material would've cut into their profit margin by a few dollars

[chipj29]

Apparently this is not uncommon. A quick google search brought me to this link: https://seadoosink.com/

[MAXUM]

That website documents a 2014 model year having the same problem, you'd think that BRP would have quickly seen this was a poor design and done something to fix it. Clearly they haven't yet if the same thing happened on a 2016. Expensive mistake on their part, between being ripe for a class action lawsuit, I have to believe a recall to fix these is in order and the bad PR, not good. To bad I was always under the impression that BRP did a better build than the competition.

It does surprise me these things are not outfitted for positive floation especially since the way people play with them swamping them seems common.

[ApS]

Originally Posted by beantownbaby

Our 2016 sea doo quit and then sank. Thankfully NOT in 200 ft. Deep water, only in a channel. After analysis it turns out to be a resonator that over heated and melted a hole in the exhaust area. The mechanic can not find a cause, no clogged intake etc. my question is, does anyone have a similar experience or suggestion for how I trust this won't happen again if I were to pull in something unseen just below the surface? How can they build this machine with low level meltable parts in areas that are at risk of high heat?!! Thanks for any suggestions.

Because once it's out of warranty, insurance picks up the bill for a new one?



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[chipj29]

Originally Posted by MAXUM

That website documents a 2014 model year having the same problem, you'd think that BRP would have quickly seen this was a poor design and done something to fix it. Clearly they haven't yet if the same thing happened on a 2016. Expensive mistake on their part, between being ripe for a class action lawsuit, I have to believe a recall to fix these is in order and the bad PR, not good. To bad I was always under the impression that BRP did a better build than the competition.

It does surprise me these things are not outfitted for positive floation especially since the way people play with them swamping them seems common.

Well, I think the class action lawsuit and recall might depend on how many had the issue. What is the percentage of failures out of the number of PWCs they have made? I would venture to guess it is a fairly small percentage.
And the Sea Doos DO have positive flotation. There are styrofoam panels throughout the hull, especially in the front storage compartment. I know this because I have a Sea Doo.

[robk]

That is a bummer...

For the exhaust to overheat, there has to be something blocking the water feed to the exhaust which cools it down. Usually this happens when you operate the ski in too shallow of water and suck up sand and rocks, etc. into the fresh water cooling...or maybe a hose popped off due to a weak hose clamp or something. If a blockage, once the ski is able to run again, you will need to backflush the system and maybe pull some of the hoses off to see where the blockage is. I would recommend that you install a bilge pump to safeguard against this happening again. Check out www.greenhulk.net. Tons of pwc info on that sight...and how to's on installing a bilge pump. Sea doo makes a kit that you could install as well...ask your dealer.

[beantownbaby]

Originally Posted by robk

That is a bummer...

For the exhaust to overheat, there has to be something blocking the water feed to the exhaust which cools it down. Usually this happens when you operate the ski in too shallow of water and suck up sand and rocks, etc. into the fresh water cooling...or maybe a hose popped off due to a weak hose clamp or something. If a blockage, once the ski is able to run again, you will need to backflush the system and maybe pull some of the hoses off to see where the blockage is. I would recommend that you install a bilge pump to safeguard against this happening again. Check out www.greenhulk.net. Tons of pwc info on that sight...and how to's on installing a bilge pump. Sea doo makes a kit that you could install as well...ask your dealer.

Thank you. We took it to Irwin to have them analyze what the issue was. They checked everything out and did not find any blockages. They back flushed and are getting it all set. I was really just wondering how you safeguard against the same thing happening again if there is something unseen under the water surface that gets pulled in. Thanks for your insight. I have now lost 2+ weeks on my beloved water craft. Such a shame.


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[jcg900]

Any compensation from Irwin?


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[Greene's Basin Girl]

I guess I am glad that my Seadoo was manufactured in 2002. No major problems thus far.

[ApS]

Originally Posted by beantownbaby

Our 2016 sea doo quit and then sank. Thankfully NOT in 200 ft. Deep water, only in a channel. After analysis it turns out to be a resonator that over heated and melted a hole in the exhaust area. The mechanic can not find a cause, no clogged intake etc. my question is, does anyone have a similar experience or suggestion for how I trust this won't happen again if I were to pull in something unseen just below the surface? How can they build this machine with low level melt able parts in areas that are at risk of high heat?!! Thanks for any suggestions.

British cars solved a "hot carb" problem with a sandwich of aluminum and asbestos to isolate the carbs from the hot manifold. Described back then as a "heat-shield", I made one for a modern fuel-injected BMW.

Pop-rivet two pieces of aluminum and one sheet of asbestos together. It was only 3/16" in thickness—with the overall size of a large postcard. It can then be slipped and glued into the problem area. Instead of using asbestos, there's non-asbestos gasket material—available in rolled-up sheets.

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[beantownbaby]

Originally Posted by jcg900

Any compensation from Irwin?


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We are still waiting for a piece of hose to arrive, then they will test it in the lake. I am told it is covered 100% by warranty. I would hope so! 40 (fantastic, I must add) lake hours on it and the resonator melted with no cause that has been found. No clog, nothing. It's great it's covered but doesn't answer the question of what caused it, which is making me nervous to trust it.


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[beantownbaby]

Originally Posted by ApS

British cars solved a "hot carb" problem with a sandwich of aluminum and asbestos to isolate the carbs from the hot manifold. Described back then as a "heat-shield", I made one for a modern fuel-injected BMW.



Pop-rivet two pieces of aluminum and one sheet of asbestos together. It was only 3/16" in thickness—with the overall size of a large postcard. It can then be slipped and glued into the problem area. Instead of using asbestos, there's non-asbestos gasket material—available in rolled-up sheets.



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Thank you ApS, sounds like a creative work around (over my pay grade). I appreciate your input.


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[8gv]

Has any collateral damage caused by the soaking been discovered?

[ITD]

Originally Posted by ApS

British cars solved a "hot carb" problem with a sandwich of aluminum and asbestos to isolate the carbs from the hot manifold. Described back then as a "heat-shield", I made one for a modern fuel-injected BMW.

Pop-rivet two pieces of aluminum and one sheet of asbestos together. It was only 3/16" in thickness—with the overall size of a large postcard. It can then be slipped and glued into the problem area. Instead of using asbestos, there's non-asbestos gasket material—available in rolled-up sheets.

.

I have a feeling the resonator melted from within. Sounds like water stopped flowing for some reason, may be a design defect. Seadoos have always been ahead of the curve for being quiet using a series of baffles and chambers, some are made of plastic and probably need to be cooled to stop melting.

[SAMIAM]

Originally Posted by Greene's Basin Girl

I guess I am glad that my Seadoo was manufactured in 2002. No major problems thus far.

Me too.....had very little trouble with 2002's

[nhcatrider]

I have a bunch of friends who ride skidoo's. I have seen 3 of them have fires in the exhaust with one resulting in the total destruction of the machine. I don't think this problem is limited to pwc's but is more widespread as they share technology over the different types of machines they make. And the snowmobiles don't have a cooling system on the exhaust.

[dpg]

Daughter bought a 2016 this spring no issues all summer. For the thousands they probably sell we usually only hear about the "handful??" of issues.

[trfour]

Also, rodents love to build and nest, yes ' inside exhaust ' systems, during winter storage. So, exploratory maintenance is highly recommended, 'before' starting engine for each season...

[SIKSUKR]

A quick search shows quite a few issues with the resonator.
https://www.google.com/#q=seadoo+resonator+overheating

[Rich]

This seems like a business opportunity for someone.

Create an alternative metal replacement part and sell it as an aftermarket part.

[ITD]

This looks like a cooling issue to me, not a resonator issue. The manual for my sea doos say not to operate in water less than 3 feet deep. I have gotten the cooling system plugged before in shallow water. Putting a metal part in does not solve the problem, this is a closed area with a large gas tank, oil and many fragile parts, the last thing you want is a red hot piece of metal in there.

[Rich]

yes cooling is the root issue. But someone can suck up FOD at any depth or speed, and this can block the main impeller which provides the cooling.

A metal replacement exhaust will not solve the root issue, but it may help to keep the thing from sinking.

But then again, I don't own one, so I'm only going by what I'm reading via the supplied links.

[ITD]

Originally Posted by Rich

yes cooling is the root issue. But someone can suck up FOD at any depth or speed, and this can block the main impeller which provides the cooling.

A metal replacement exhaust will not solve the root issue, but it may help to keep the thing from sinking.

But then again, I don't own one, so I'm only going by what I'm reading via the supplied links.

I really don't think it would be safe, exhaust is very high temperature. I think Sea doo may need to put some temp sensors in these parts if they can't keep them from clogging.

[V ger]

A well designed wet exhaust system will employ both a cooling water flow sensor and an exhaust temperature sensor. The ABYC standard P-01 1.7.2 states, "An indicator shall be provided that is effective at all helm positions to indicate loss of exhaust system cooling water supply. This indicator shall be independent of the engine block temperature indicator(s)." My 10 year copy of the standards makes no exception for PWCs so perhaps a newer copy might read differently. Even if an exception has been granted best engineering practices would dictate the use of the sensors mentioned above, especially when flammable materials are employed in the exhaust system.

[ITD]

Originally Posted by V ger

A well designed wet exhaust system will employ both a cooling water flow sensor and an exhaust temperature sensor. The ABYC standard P-01 1.7.2 states, "An indicator shall be provided that is effective at all helm positions to indicate loss of exhaust system cooling water supply. This indicator shall be independent of the engine block temperature indicator(s)." My 10 year copy of the standards makes no exception for PWCs so perhaps a newer copy might read differently. Even if an exception has been granted best engineering practices would dictate the use of the sensors mentioned above, especially when flammable materials are employed in the exhaust system.

Good post, makes sense, they must get around that rule somehow, or maybe the sensors aren't working. The big question is are these being clogged up or is it a defect.

[beantownbaby]

Thanks all for your input on this. Warranty covered the issue 100%. Irwin did the work and were very good. I have to put a thank you in for Fay's Boatyard. We keep it there and they have been very helpful. Beyond helpful actually. When it was sinking, they sent someone out with no notice even though they were short handed and helped us out. They have really been good to deal with. Highly recommend.


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