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Old 12-21-2005, 10:38 AM   #1
ApS
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Default Sundeck got Wasps Underneath?

With three sundecks, a porch, and a dock, these stinging blighters turn up about every other summer at my place: And under the deck -- out of reach of hornet spray from any direction.

Normally, a wasp's nest is left alone on this property, but this particular sundeck location is a high-human-traffic spot.

I thought I'd share the technique after stumbling upon this photograph below, which was taken to remind me how to do it next time.

This particular board didn't lend itself for full-removal because there is other structure (the handrail posts) built atop it. (Not to mention that there was a softball-sized wasp nest underneath it). It will be named the FLL Extended Sabersaw Anti-Wasp Technique, or "FLLESAWT", after the famous FLL Extended Trimming Chainsaw technique, or "FLLETCT".

A saber saw is duct taped (or cable-tied) to a 20-foot-long pole, and the "on" switch engaged (but unplugged for now). The blade is inserted between the boards to cut the affected board. An extension cord is run to the saw's power cord. (So far, the wasps aren't suspecting a thing, even in the middle of the day).

Connecting the power cord, the saber saw is guided to make the cut. Notice that a straightened coat hanger, a board, and a bungie cord is keeping the soon-to-be-cut board section from falling prematurely. (Presently, the wasps are attacking the saw, and aren't connecting the saw with the operator, 20-feet away, with it).

After the board is cut, we wait for sunset when the wasps have all returned to the nest and have quieted down. The cut board section is tilted -- which this time, fortunately, -- breaks the nest from it and the nest is doused with hornet jet-spray.

Come morning, only few wasps are to be seen in the area -- and the next day, the cut section is drilled for screws and secured for the next time wasps make their home there.

Voilá!

EDIT: Now that I've seen how well the photo turned out here, you can see the open top of the dislocated gray wasp nest to the left of the opening. The base is still attached to the board -- just visible. The "near" edge of the cut board that has been pulled upwards by the bungee cord, and the lighter-colored cut can be seen edge-on.

Also the PVC pipe could have been made perhaps another 20-feet longer to suit your own comfort level.

By adding "sister" stringers alongside the existing stringers, it was easy to use galvanized drywall screws to secure the board back in place. (Just in case a new community of wasps decide to take up residence in the very same spot).

I also drilled 3/8" holes over the most likely -- and unreachable -- future wasp hive locations, so that a "spritz" might be sufficient next time.

Yes, these posts of mine do tend to be long -- but thorough!
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Last edited by ApS; 12-22-2005 at 06:36 AM.
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