Advanced trailering tips

Dave R · 09-21-2015, 07:10 AM

I've been trailering boats for years and have it down to a science. Here are some random tips to make it easier:

1. Don't put the trailer in too deep. If the boat does not contact the trailer at least a 1/3 of the way back from the bow, it will usually be difficult to center on the trailer. If the boat is too heavy to winch, simply back the trailer up AFTER the boat is partially winched up.

2. Drive the boat to and onto the trailer under idle power. Do not use more than idle power and do not make everyone wait while you try to manhandle the boat onto the trailer with lines. The boat has and engine for a reason, use it. If you can't get the boat centered on the trailer in this manner, see tip #1 above.

3. Roll down your windows, take off your seat belt and make sure there are no passengers in the tow vehicle when launching and retrieving. Things can go horribly wrong very quickly when there's a heavy weight trying to drag your tow vehicle into the water. Minimize risk and give yourself a fighting chance if things do go wrong.

4. Leave the winch in the right state for releasing slack when you unhook the winch strap/cable from your boat upon launching. I put my winch in neutral right after I release the boat. When I retrieve the boat, the strap is ready to be pulled out and I don't have to fumble with it.

5. If you don't drive the boat off the trailer, use two lines to control the boat as it comes off the trailer. One line is inadequate.

6. Use a system to remember key steps in launching and retrieving. I made an aluminum (does not rust and stain my gel coat) box-end wrench that fits the garboard (drain) plug and I put the starboard transom strap hook through the wrench when I attach the strap to the transom of my boat. Its presence when I remove the strap before launching the boat reminds me to install the plug. My boat has integrated brake/directional lights that need to be disconnected prior to launching. I put a bright pink nylon strap on the wire for the lights and I loop the strap over the winch handle when I connect the wiring. When I launch the boat, I have to remove the strap from the winch handle to move the handle and that reminds me to unplug the wire.

I realize I have posted some or all of this stuff before, but I continually witness stuff at launch ramps that makes me shake my head and hope that someone gets something useful from these tips. Feel free to add to them or go off on a tangent.

BroadHopper · 09-21-2015, 08:29 AM

When backing the trailer down a ramp or into a parking space. It is easier to steer when you grab the bottom of the steering wheel as oppose to grabbing the top of the wheel. It makes mind to hands coordination so much easier!

TiltonBB · 09-21-2015, 10:04 AM

"Drive the boat to and onto the trailer under idle power. Do not use more than idle power and do not make everyone wait while you try to manhandle the boat onto the trailer with lines. The boat has and engine for a reason, use it."

Be careful about "power loading". Many ramps have restrictions specifically prohibiting this. Ramps that have poured concrete or concrete planks only go so far into the water. When you power load you displace the lake bottom at the end of the planks.

When someone comes along with a longer trailer or a larger boat they go off the end of the concrete and the trailer drops. In some situations when there has been a lot of power loading I have seen trailers go off the end and drop down to a point where the trailer frame is on the ground. There is no easy or inexpensive recovery from this.

noreast · 09-21-2015, 11:54 AM

Many ramps in NH are ruined from power loading. Take it easy.

Dave R · 09-21-2015, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiltonBB

"Drive the boat to and onto the trailer under idle power. Do not use more than idle power and do not make everyone wait while you try to manhandle the boat onto the trailer with lines. The boat has and engine for a reason, use it."

Be careful about "power loading". Many ramps have restrictions specifically prohibiting this. Ramps that have poured concrete or concrete planks only go so far into the water. When you power load you displace the lake bottom at the end of the planks.

When someone comes along with a longer trailer or a larger boat they go off the end of the concrete and the trailer drops. In some situations when there has been a lot of power loading I have seen trailers go off the end and drop down to a point where the trailer frame is on the ground. There is no easy or inexpensive recovery from this.

Driving onto the trailer at idle speed is not what most consider "power loading". Power loading is when you use the engine rather than the winch to get the boat all the way to the bow stop. That said, if there's any doubt, shut the engine off a second or two before the boat contacts the trailer, that's what I do. I've done it several times in front of F&G officers right next to signs that say "No Power Loading" and I have never been hassled. I also asked the Downings how they defined power loading and they feel the same way I do.

jetlag100 · 09-21-2015, 03:35 PM

If your driving a pick-up..put the tailgate down...better visibility......

Shreddy · 09-21-2015, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetlag100

If your driving a pick-up..put the tailgate down...better visibility......

Learn to use your side view mirrors. You'll thank me later. I never put the tailgate down on a pickup, open the latch on an SUV, or anything like that even with an empty jet ski trailer. It's so easy to see and control the empty trailer by using side view mirrors. I can't remember the last time I actually looked over my shoulder while backing up a trailer but to each their own. I'd have no issue pegging a small trailer with inches of clearance on each side, but I've also been doing it for so long (I drop my jet ski in and out of the water every weekend in the summer).

Grandpa Redneck · 09-21-2015, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiltonBB

" In some situations when there has been a lot of power loading I have seen trailers go off the end and drop down to a point where the trailer frame is on the ground. There is no easy or inexpensive recovery from this.

Actually there is a simple recovery method I have seen used.
Run the winch strap under the length of the trailer
then pull it up behind the rear cross member and attach it to the bow eye of the boat
tighten the winch and it will lift the trailer enough to pull it ahead back onto the ramp easily.

Dave R · 09-21-2015, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandpa Redneck

Actually there is a simple recovery method I have seen used.
Run the winch strap under the length of the trailer
then pull it up behind the rear cross member and attach it to the bow eye of the boat
tighten the winch and it will lift the trailer enough to pull it ahead back onto the ramp easily.

Brilliant.

TiltonBB · 09-21-2015, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grandpa Redneck

Actually there is a simple recovery method I have seen used.
Run the winch strap under the length of the trailer
then pull it up behind the rear cross member and attach it to the bow eye of the boat
tighten the winch and it will lift the trailer enough to pull it ahead back onto the ramp easily.

Like I said.................There is an easy way to fix this when it happens!

Yankee · 09-21-2015, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BroadHopper

When backing the trailer down a ramp or into a parking space. It is easier to steer when you grab the bottom of the steering wheel as oppose to grabbing the top of the wheel. It makes mind to hands coordination so much easier!

Good advice, I'll add the when your hand is at the bottom of the wheel move it in the direction that you want the boat to go.

For what it's worth, I've had bunk trailers for every boat that I have owned. For those who don't know, that means wooden planks covered with marine carpet ie: no rollers. It takes a bit more skill backing in, but you can get that trailer under your boat, winch it in then slowly drive up the ramp and let the boat settle onto the trailer. IMO, it's much less hassle and allows you to leave the ramp quicker. And the boat self levels itself on the trailer.

Of course you can do the same with a trailer equipped with rollers, but most boaters with rollers assume that the way to get their boat onto the trailer is turn the crank and drag it up onto the trailer and never think of floating the boat onto the trailer.

rowinghelmet · 09-22-2015, 04:55 AM

Great tips!

One additional tip- invest in getting your trailer setup well with guideposts and a keel bunk (small bunks towards the front of the trailer). With these it's nearly impossible not to center your boat and load it perfectly every time.

dpg · 09-22-2015, 10:56 AM

I don't do it much anymore but always had an issue getting the trailer in the water the perfect amount. Always not wanting to "float" the boat onto the trailer but if it's out too far your cranking the whole damn boat up by hand! Any simply "rule of thumb" of how much of the trailer goes into the water? I'll pass on the suggestion to my kids as they do it now.

MAXUM · 09-22-2015, 02:48 PM

It takes a few times to figure out the exact amount of trailer to submerge to get the loading perfect. Once that sweet spot is found it's very easy to get the boat on or off the trailer. The key thing is the sweet spot for loading is not the same for unloading. It's downright painful to see the way some people operate especially the ones that insist on loading or unloading with ropes. In fact I think it's dangerous because they have little control over the boat and nobody is inside so if it gets away from them... then what? My word of advice, if loading or unloading from a bunk trailer is kicking your ass you're doing something wrong. It ain't rocket science!

All bets are off on a roller trailer, those things are horrid.

Dave R · 09-23-2015, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpg

I don't do it much anymore but always had an issue getting the trailer in the water the perfect amount. Always not wanting to "float" the boat onto the trailer but if it's out too far your cranking the whole damn boat up by hand! Any simply "rule of thumb" of how much of the trailer goes into the water? I'll pass on the suggestion to my kids as they do it now.

No rule of thumb, boat/trailer/ramp combinations are simple too numerous. That said, see tip #1. Always start with the trailer shallow and work backwards. If winching starts to get challenging, back the trailer is a bit to ease the friction on the trailer.

chris410 · 09-24-2015, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpg

I don't do it much anymore but always had an issue getting the trailer in the water the perfect amount. Always not wanting to "float" the boat onto the trailer but if it's out too far your cranking the whole damn boat up by hand! Any simply "rule of thumb" of how much of the trailer goes into the water? I'll pass on the suggestion to my kids as they do it now.

My rule of thumb that works 10 out of 10 times (for my trailer) is when the trailer fenders are JUST submerged. This is for retrieving the boat.

For launching, I back the trailer into the water until I notice the boat start to float (still connected at the bow)

dickiej · 09-24-2015, 08:03 PM

The only tip I know of is: when launching, make sure the transom plug is in! Learned the hard way more than once!

Dave R · 09-25-2015, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris410

My rule of thumb that works 10 out of 10 times (for my trailer) is when the trailer fenders are JUST submerged. This is for retrieving the boat.

For launching, I back the trailer into the water until I notice the boat start to float (still connected at the bow)

On mine, the tops of the fenders are usually 2+ feet underwater when it's in the right spot.

DBreskin · 09-29-2015, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dickiej

The only tip I know of is: when launching, make sure the transom plug is in! Learned the hard way more than once!

Having learned the hard way, I attached a split ring to my garboard plug by drilling through the square end of the plug. When I remove the plug from the transom I attach it to a shackle I installed on the winch handle. It's hard to forget to install the plug if it's right in front of you.

upthesaukee · 09-29-2015, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DBreskin

Having learned the hard way, I attached a split ring to my garboard plug by drilling through the square end of the plug. When I remove the plug from the transom I attach it to a shackle I installed on the winch handle. It's hard to forget to install the plug if it's right in front of you.

Or you can run a key chain through it, and attach it to your boat key ring.

Happy Gourmand · 09-29-2015, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upthesaukee

Or you can run a key chain through it, and attach it to your boat key ring.

Or, put it in a sandwich baggie and tie it to the steering wheel.

DBreskin · 09-29-2015, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upthesaukee

Or you can run a key chain through it, and attach it to your boat key ring.

This wouldn't work for me since I leave my keys in the boat all the time. I store the boat on the trailer and launch each day I want to go boating, and I'd hate to have to climb in the boat each time I needed to get the plug.

Dave R · 09-30-2015, 06:33 AM

Thought of another tip. This one's a bit counter-intuitive, but hear me out. If you have surge drum brakes, replace them with electric drum brakes and immobilize or replace your surge coupler. Electric brakes are simpler, less susceptible to problems from being submerged hot and require less repair over time. They are also much more effective because they engage instantly. They are also REALLY cheap. If you have 3500 Lb Dexter axles (very common trailer axles) you can get complete and pre-assembled backing plate/brake assemblies for 37 bucks per wheel. You re-use your drums.

The only electric part on an electric brake is a completely encapsulated electromagnet. It has zero issues with being submerged. The rest of the parts are simple mechanical devices that are no more complex than hydraulic brake parts.

I did this switch a few years ago and other than self-inflicted problems, it's been trouble-free. Prior to this, I was replacing one or two wheel cylinders a year and dealing with bleeding and such.

jhnmdahl · 10-10-2015, 05:55 PM

The one thing I wish I'd known when I started is that everything goes smoother if you put the trailer in deeper when unloading than when loading. It takes a little practice to find what works best, but with the boats I've worked with it's always easier to load with the trailer a little shallower and unload with the trailer a little deeper.

John

09-21-2015, 08:29 AM	#2
BroadHopper Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Laconia NH Posts: 5,508 Thanks: 3,116 Thanked 1,089 Times in 783 Posts	Bottom of the sterring wheel When backing the trailer down a ramp or into a parking space. It is easier to steer when you grab the bottom of the steering wheel as oppose to grabbing the top of the wheel. It makes mind to hands coordination so much easier! __________________ Someday may never be an actual day.

09-21-2015, 10:04 AM	#3
TiltonBB Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Gilford, NH and Florida Posts: 2,893 Thanks: 643 Thanked 2,151 Times in 898 Posts	Power loading "Drive the boat to and onto the trailer under idle power. Do not use more than idle power and do not make everyone wait while you try to manhandle the boat onto the trailer with lines. The boat has and engine for a reason, use it." Be careful about "power loading". Many ramps have restrictions specifically prohibiting this. Ramps that have poured concrete or concrete planks only go so far into the water. When you power load you displace the lake bottom at the end of the planks. When someone comes along with a longer trailer or a larger boat they go off the end of the concrete and the trailer drops. In some situations when there has been a lot of power loading I have seen trailers go off the end and drop down to a point where the trailer frame is on the ground. There is no easy or inexpensive recovery from this.

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09-21-2015, 07:10 AM	#1
Dave R Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,974 Thanks: 246 Thanked 736 Times in 438 Posts	Advanced trailering tips I've been trailering boats for years and have it down to a science. Here are some random tips to make it easier: 1. Don't put the trailer in too deep. If the boat does not contact the trailer at least a 1/3 of the way back from the bow, it will usually be difficult to center on the trailer. If the boat is too heavy to winch, simply back the trailer up AFTER the boat is partially winched up. 2. Drive the boat to and onto the trailer under idle power. Do not use more than idle power and do not make everyone wait while you try to manhandle the boat onto the trailer with lines. The boat has and engine for a reason, use it. If you can't get the boat centered on the trailer in this manner, see tip #1 above. 3. Roll down your windows, take off your seat belt and make sure there are no passengers in the tow vehicle when launching and retrieving. Things can go horribly wrong very quickly when there's a heavy weight trying to drag your tow vehicle into the water. Minimize risk and give yourself a fighting chance if things do go wrong. 4. Leave the winch in the right state for releasing slack when you unhook the winch strap/cable from your boat upon launching. I put my winch in neutral right after I release the boat. When I retrieve the boat, the strap is ready to be pulled out and I don't have to fumble with it. 5. If you don't drive the boat off the trailer, use two lines to control the boat as it comes off the trailer. One line is inadequate. 6. Use a system to remember key steps in launching and retrieving. I made an aluminum (does not rust and stain my gel coat) box-end wrench that fits the garboard (drain) plug and I put the starboard transom strap hook through the wrench when I attach the strap to the transom of my boat. Its presence when I remove the strap before launching the boat reminds me to install the plug. My boat has integrated brake/directional lights that need to be disconnected prior to launching. I put a bright pink nylon strap on the wire for the lights and I loop the strap over the winch handle when I connect the wiring. When I launch the boat, I have to remove the strap from the winch handle to move the handle and that reminds me to unplug the wire. I realize I have posted some or all of this stuff before, but I continually witness stuff at launch ramps that makes me shake my head and hope that someone gets something useful from these tips. Feel free to add to them or go off on a tangent. Last edited by Dave R; 09-21-2015 at 11:54 AM.

The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Dave R For This Useful Post:
ITD (09-21-2015), persamp (09-29-2015), Rattlesnake Gal (09-25-2015), secondcurve (09-22-2015)

The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to TiltonBB For This Useful Post:
camp guy (09-21-2015), hig (09-21-2015), noreast (09-21-2015)

09-21-2015, 11:54 AM	#4
noreast Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 648 Thanks: 316 Thanked 120 Times in 93 Posts	Many ramps in NH are ruined from power loading. Take it easy.

09-21-2015, 03:35 PM	#6
jetlag100 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Revere, Massachusetts and Moultonborough, N.H. Posts: 311 Thanks: 228 Thanked 79 Times in 50 Posts	If your driving a pick-up..put the tailgate down...better visibility......

The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Grandpa Redneck For This Useful Post:
ApS (09-25-2015), billy (09-22-2015), CL 240 LS (09-21-2015), Dave R (09-21-2015), hig (09-21-2015), Rattlesnake Gal (09-25-2015), SAMIAM (09-22-2015), TiltonBB (09-21-2015)

09-22-2015, 04:55 AM	#12
rowinghelmet Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 25 Times in 20 Posts	Great tips! One additional tip- invest in getting your trailer setup well with guideposts and a keel bunk (small bunks towards the front of the trailer). With these it's nearly impossible not to center your boat and load it perfectly every time.

The Following User Says Thank You to rowinghelmet For This Useful Post:
ApS (09-25-2015)

09-22-2015, 10:56 AM	#13
dpg Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 2,560 Thanks: 149 Thanked 229 Times in 166 Posts	I don't do it much anymore but always had an issue getting the trailer in the water the perfect amount. Always not wanting to "float" the boat onto the trailer but if it's out too far your cranking the whole damn boat up by hand! Any simply "rule of thumb" of how much of the trailer goes into the water? I'll pass on the suggestion to my kids as they do it now.

09-22-2015, 02:48 PM	#14
MAXUM Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Kuna ID Posts: 2,755 Thanks: 246 Thanked 1,942 Times in 802 Posts	It takes a few times to figure out the exact amount of trailer to submerge to get the loading perfect. Once that sweet spot is found it's very easy to get the boat on or off the trailer. The key thing is the sweet spot for loading is not the same for unloading. It's downright painful to see the way some people operate especially the ones that insist on loading or unloading with ropes. In fact I think it's dangerous because they have little control over the boat and nobody is inside so if it gets away from them... then what? My word of advice, if loading or unloading from a bunk trailer is kicking your ass you're doing something wrong. It ain't rocket science! All bets are off on a roller trailer, those things are horrid.

09-24-2015, 08:03 PM	#17
dickiej Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: White Salmon, WA Posts: 291 Thanks: 21 Thanked 165 Times in 90 Posts	The only tip I know of is: when launching, make sure the transom plug is in! Learned the hard way more than once!

09-30-2015, 06:33 AM	#23
Dave R Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,974 Thanks: 246 Thanked 736 Times in 438 Posts	Thought of another tip. This one's a bit counter-intuitive, but hear me out. If you have surge drum brakes, replace them with electric drum brakes and immobilize or replace your surge coupler. Electric brakes are simpler, less susceptible to problems from being submerged hot and require less repair over time. They are also much more effective because they engage instantly. They are also REALLY cheap. If you have 3500 Lb Dexter axles (very common trailer axles) you can get complete and pre-assembled backing plate/brake assemblies for 37 bucks per wheel. You re-use your drums. The only electric part on an electric brake is a completely encapsulated electromagnet. It has zero issues with being submerged. The rest of the parts are simple mechanical devices that are no more complex than hydraulic brake parts. I did this switch a few years ago and other than self-inflicted problems, it's been trouble-free. Prior to this, I was replacing one or two wheel cylinders a year and dealing with bleeding and such.

10-10-2015, 05:55 PM	#24
jhnmdahl Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Twin Cities, MN Posts: 6 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The one thing I wish I'd known when I started is that everything goes smoother if you put the trailer in deeper when unloading than when loading. It takes a little practice to find what works best, but with the boats I've worked with it's always easier to load with the trailer a little shallower and unload with the trailer a little deeper. John