Trailer tire issue

[bigdog]

Today, I noticed that one of my trailer tires, was flat to the ground.
FYI, trailer has not moved since Oct. Single axle trailer.

Last week, it was inflated, though a little low. I t seemed to hold air, over the winter w/o any issues.

Would the tire loose air that fast in one week, to put tire to the ground ?

Taking off tire and will attempt to fill with air. BTW, have 3 of 5 lugs loosened, however, the last 2 are on pretty tight! Have sprayed with
BP Bolt- Buster oil, and leaving overnight. Will try to loosen tomorrow.
Crossing my fingers !

Thanks,
BD

[searay220]

It sounds as if the core in the valve stem may not of seated back correctly after you aired it up last week. Something tiny may of got in there. Try airing it up again and then put a small amount of soapy water on the stem.

[Sunset Bob]

Sounds like this may be an old tire with dry rot. Don't take chances like I did this is no fun and costly.

http://www.winnipesaukee.com/photopo...5688&ppuser=15

[Blue Thunder]

Originally Posted by Sunset Bob

Sounds like this may be an old tire with dry rot. Don't take chances like I did this is no fun and costly.

http://www.winnipesaukee.com/photopo...5688&ppuser=15

I agree with Sunset Bob. Look for tiny little cracks in the sidewall of the tire. That is so called, dry rot. If the trailer is more than 5-7 years old the tires are probably junk. Don't mess with it. Trailer tires can be found fairly cheap online. A blowout on a tandem trailer while towing is no fun. I don't recommend trying it....

BT

[ITD]

Bend the valve stem to the side, if there are any cracks replace it. There was a bunch of defective stems put on trailer tires a few years ago.

[bigdog]

Thanks to the Forum for all the info.

When I get tire off, will take to tire dealer in town to inspect.

Sunset Bob, may have hit the issue though, "dry rot". These are the original tires, and that being 15 years old. Tires probably haven't seen more than a couple thousand miles, but age is more the factor.

Will let you know results after dealer checks the issue out.

Thanks,
BD

[Lakepilot]

If the tires are 15 years old they are scrap. I would replace that one and the other one, if it's over 5-7 years old.

[fatlazyless]

Maybe check out Stan's Tire Barn up in North Woodstock. It's a big old barn that's loaded up with all types of second hand tires which still have unused miles left in them. Stan's Tire barn....where the locals shop tires....when they cannot afford Wal-Mart and know their tires will never pass the state inspection.

You will be surprised what nice tires you can find for just twenty bucks at Stan's Tire Barn.....including trailer tires.

[lawn psycho]

1. Junk the tire and get a new one.

2. For the tight lug nuts that won't budge
a. Take a ball peen hammer and tap on the nut
b. Get one of the propane torch and bottle (or just pay about $20 more and get mapp gas which is better)
c. Clean off the grease and/or penetrant that you sprayed.
d. Apply heat all around the lug while tapping. You may see some bubbling from the heat which means its doing what its supposed to do.
e. Try and loosen nut and she should break free for you.

Also, use a 6 point lug wrench with a breaker bar if you aren't already. 12 point sockets can gall the nut when they are stubborn like this.

Lastly, if it's been that long with the tires, you should at least have the wheel bearings regreased or simply replaced. Fairly easy DIY job and just get a $10 bearing packer rather then the less effective hand method.

If you break a stud you may wind up buying a new hub anyways as the labor to fix would be more than a new hub

[NoBozo]

If the wheel lugs were put on with an Impact Wrench, you may have to take them off with an Impact Wrench. Last fall I bought a 1/2 inch drive impact wrench from Sears (580 Ft.Lbs Max Torque)... JUST to remove my trailer wheels which have been on the trailer for a decade.

With the liberal application of "PB Blaster Penetrating" (From Benny's) over a few days, and the impact wrench, the lugs finally came off. When the wheels go back on I will use "Permatex Anti Seize" compound (From Benny's) on the lug bolt threads and shoulders. There are no "studs & lugnuts" on my EZ Loader trailer.

BTW: 580 Ft.Lbs torque would be the MINIMUM size impact wrench I would buy for this purpose. NB

SEARS: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3

[bigdog]

Thanks everyone for all the great feedback, much apprecaited !!!!

LawnPsycho:
Thanks for the trick about removing lug nuts with torch, never thought about that, makes sense. BTW, I have and using a 6-lug spanner wrench.
Have soaked 2x with PB, but still having issues removeing last lug-nut, will try the torch trick next.


NoBozo:
Regarding the lugs.... If a lug snaps and breaks, would it be a real bad thing to run on 4 lugs versus 5 ? Do you think it would make that much difference? I know, you don't have to say it, but 5 is always better than 4 !


BD

[Belmont Resident]

The lugs are easy enough to replace. I've done many over the years.
You might want to get those tires off the ground when the trailer isn't in use. That will help with tire rot but age will eventually get them. The tires were probably not road safe after 10 years.

[NoBozo]

Originally Posted by bigdog

NoBozo:
Regarding the lugs.... If a lug snaps and breaks, would it be a real bad thing to run on 4 lugs versus 5 ? Do you think it would make that much difference? I know, you don't have to say it, but 5 is always better than 4 ! BD

Here's something I have learned over the years. You can try a breaker bar to break loose those lugs. You might get Lucky.... OR: ...If you are NOT lucky..and you are physically strong enough..you may just BREAK the lug OFF. I did this while trying to remove the bolts while removing my exhaust manifold. At that time..I didn't have an Impact Wrench. I learn every day.

An impact wrench Vibrates the lug..first in foreword and then in reverse in VERY VERY Rapid order. You can't replicate this with a breaker bar or muscle. The Impact Wrench "Coaxes" the bolt/lug to come loose.

If the bolt pattern has 5 bolts..and one breaks off..I don't have ANY Problem with running with 4. NB

[bigdog]

Just tried with the help of neighbor to loosen the last lug. Using a 4-way spanner wrench applied, lug seemed to break loose, and now spins, but still VERY tight.

Seems now like it's just turning but not actually coming loose, if you know what I mean ? Maybe spinning from the back side, don't know or can see, as brake housing is covering view.

We did, with the aid of his poratable air compressor, able to inflate tire, to where it's supposed to be. Will see if it holds air overnoight. At least now I can tow to tire dealer down the street to remove that last lug with Impact wrench, and inspect tire.

Like most on Forum have stated, both tires, are at this age probably need to be reaplaced.

Will circle back to forum with results after visiting tire dealer.

BD

[Resident 2B]

From what you are reporting, I believe the threads are striped inside the lug nut. Unfortunately, this is not a good thing and will require the work of a mechanic to fix as it will involve cutting the lug and lug nut close to the wheel, possibly some drilling to get what remains of the lug out of the way of the wheel, then replacing the lug.

Good Luck!

R2B

[lawn psycho]

Did you not use the heat? That is the trick. You tap and heat the lug and she'll break free. With a rusted/fused nut, over powering it with brute force leads to snapping. People do this with water pump bolts all the time. Once the first one snaps they should go get the mapp gas but instead they keep going and break ALL the bolts

If you have to have the lug cut off I would just spend the $50 and get a new hub rather than wasting the time having another lug put on the old hub. You'll get new bearings and races and sounds like it's due for it anyways.

[trfour]

When you park the boat trailer for the winter months...
1) Idealy, a paved or cemented area that keep the tires away from standing water...

2) In unpaved areas, use wooden planking, two inches high or more to keep the tires away from standing water, and also at least two inches wider than the tire tread contact area, ( width ).

3) Get tire covers to protect them from UV rays and cover them.

4) . Ive been out here for years ( stressing for folks to read their Owners Manuals ). Much of the above suggestions are in there.

5) Here's a video from Michelin tire, that may save your life, and your wallet at the same time. http://www.michelinrvtires.com/miche...er_Should_Know

I hope this helps,


Terry
__________________________

[Seeker]

When you get your new tires installed put some UV covers over the tires in the summer and winter when it's outside. My tires on one trailer are 1999 and look brand new. they sit inside in winter and outside all summer with the covers on them - even on the spare. You've seen these covers on big RVs at campgrounds. Also helps to take weight off tires if you don't use trailer on a regular basis.

[ApS]

Sunset Bob, may have hit the issue though, "dry rot". These are the original tires, and that being 15 years old. Tires probably haven't seen more than a couple thousand miles, but age is more the factor.

A funny thing about tires, they really like to be "exercised": If they sit,
they will rot through the sidewalls.

An uninflated tire can look fine lying on its side, but if you put pressure
on the sidewall with your foot, you'll see all kinds of cracks—going every
which-way. Toss it out.

I had a new $150 tire that sat in a closet for two years. The tread burst in
the middle, never having been mounted! The manufacturer "made good" on it,
but there's a lesson in there. A mounted Michelin spare had done the same
thing—and even more spectacularly—never having seen asphalt, but it was at least 10 years old.

Today, Federal Law mandates that dealers can't sell tires that are three
years old. The date of manufacture can be determined from manufacturers'
markings on the sidewall:

The DOT Code begins with the letters "DOT" followed by a plant code (two numbers or letters) that identifies where it was manufactured. The last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. A three-digit code was used for tires manufactured before the year 2000. For example, 178 means it was manufactured in the 17th week of 8th year of the decade. In this case it means 1988. For tires manufactured in the 1990s, the same code holds true, but there is a little triangle (Δ) after the DOT code. Thus, a tire manufactured in the 17th week of 1998 would have the code 178Δ. In 2000, the code was switched to a 4-digit code. Same rules apply, so for example, 3003 means the tire was manufactured in the 30th week of 2003.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire

[NoRegrets]

Be carefull with old rubber! ABC did a video a few years that talked to aged tires. Here is a link to the story:

http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/video/aged...hazard-4826897

Tire dates are normally four digits long and stamped in a recessed roundish rectangle on the sidewall of the tire. The first 2 digits are the month and the second 2 are the year (0405 would be made in april 2005). Check to make sure when you buy "new" tires that they are really new.
Before 2000, the date code had three digits so if your little code only has 3 digits then you should change them out anyway.

[Blue Thunder]

BigDog,

If you need to start replacing parts, this is the online outlet that I used when doing over my snowmobile trailer after 10 years. For me the decision was easy. You can get an entire hub with the bearings seals, studs, nuts and cover for $33-$38 depending on size.

http://www.easternmarine.com/HUBS-Tr...heel-Hub-Kits/

BT

[Dave R]

Originally Posted by Blue Thunder

BigDog,

If you need to start replacing parts, this is the online outlet that I used when doing over my snowmobile trailer after 10 years. For me the decision was easy. You can get an entire hub with the bearings seals, studs, nuts and cover for $33-$38 depending on size.

http://www.easternmarine.com/HUBS-Tr...heel-Hub-Kits/

BT

That's soooooo much simpler that trying to change bearings and a broken stud.

[Belmont Resident]

Check with Joe at Trailer outlet down past the Winnisquam bridge heading towards Tilton. I believe you will find his prices meet or beat anything out there. If it's trailer related he can get it.
Except for hitches he stopped dealing in those.
I replaced both axles on my dump trailer with everything including tires with a higher rated parts that took my capacity from 8k to 10.5K for under $2000.00

[Irrigation Guy]

Originally Posted by Belmont Resident

Check with Joe at Trailer outlet down past the Winnisquam bridge heading towards Tilton. I believe you will find his prices meet or beat anything out there. If it's trailer related he can get it.
Except for hitches he stopped dealing in those.
I replaced both axles on my dump trailer with everything including tires with a higher rated parts that took my capacity from 8k to 10.5K for under $2000.00

X2 --- The Trailer Outlet is great. He attracts customers from miles and states away for trailers and his parts department and knowledge are top notch.

http://www.traileroutlet.net/

[NHBUOY]

...x3.!...

[Belmont Resident]

And he treats me very well in return. I always ask those I refer to tell him that I refered them.

[bigdog]

Reporting back.....

Just to review.... When tryting to remove lug-nuts on boat trailer tire
was just spinning on the hub bolt, and could not be removed. _$(*@#^*@^$*@($_@*$ All other lugnuts could be removed NP ! FYI, this is a single axle boat trailer, only two tires.

Took trailer to local tire dealer in town today.
Mechanic put an acetylene torch on the lugnut in question, and heated up to a glow, then another mechanic placed an impact wrench on the lug. On the second attempt of each, the lugnut spinned off the bolt !
Hooray! Lucked out on this one !!!!

New tires have been ordered and will be installed tomorrow.

FYI, sidewals of tires had signs of cracking, I suspect those are tell-tale signs of dry-rot? Anyway glad all tire issues appear for the time being, to be in my rear-view mirror.

Thanks to all in this Forum thread for thire commennts, greatly apprecatied.
Lessons learned !

BD

[bigdog]

Reporting back......

New TowMax tires have been installed on trailer today. I believe thee tires are made by Carlisle. These tires happen to be "radial" tires.

These tires are replacing "bias" tread tires, and I've noticed a difference in the quiteness of these tires on the road. Stealth-like compared to the bias tires.

Am I imagining this, or is this the nature of radial trailer tires?

Thanks,
Bigdog

[Resident 2B]

Most likely a combination of radial structure and tread design.

R2B

[Blue Thunder]

Originally Posted by bigdog

Reporting back......

New TowMax tires have been installed on trailer today. I believe thee tires are made by Carlisle. These tires happen to be "radial" tires.

These tires are replacing "bias" tread tires, and I've noticed a difference in the quiteness of these tires on the road. Stealth-like compared to the bias tires.

Am I imagining this, or is this the nature of radial trailer tires?

Thanks,
Bigdog

Carlisle makes a great radial trailer tire for reasonable cost. You still need to protect them from the sun or they will dry rot just like the ones you just replaced.

BT

[ApS]

Originally Posted by bigdog

Reporting back......These tires are replacing "bias" tread tires, and I've noticed a difference in the quietness of these tires on the road. Stealth-like compared to the bias tires. Am I imagining this, or is this the nature of radial trailer tires? Thanks,
Bigdog

Although radials would respond better to a bent trailer axle, nothing rides quieter—or more comfortably—than a new set of tires.

(For about two months )