Advice on Metal Roof

[TheProfessor]

Seeking information on home metal roof - installers and product type.

Those with first hand knowledge or those that know about metal roofs - what information do I need to purchase and hire - for a new metal roof?

Opinions appreciated. Costs. Types of metal roofs. Installer names.

The dos (or do's) and don'ts.

Thank you.

[ITD]

Don't let the cat up there. Sorry, it's all I have.

[tis]

Why wouldn't you go to the lumberyards and ask, Professor?

[TheProfessor]

Originally Posted by tis

Why wouldn't you go to the lumberyards and ask, Professor?

Thank you for taking time to post.

Yes, I can use the internet. I can go to metal roofing companies on the internet. I can visit every lumber yard in area. Got it.

HERE, I am asking for first hand knowledge. People that have actually had a metal roof installed and their opinions. And others that may know of installations of friends and neighbors.

But thanks for responding.

[nhcatrider]

I did my roof last fall with metal. It was an easy install, the only hard part is lining up the first sheet. It was much faster than shingles and it goes right over what you have if your roof is steep enough. Mine is about 45 degrees so snow slides right off it. Each side is 45x22 and it took us 2 days including the ridge cap, flashing around the chimneys and all the trim work around the edges. I did rent a lift due to the pitch of the roof and it was a fairly simple job. Just make sure who ever you have do your roof uses long enough screws, they are available in lengths up to 3 inches but you have to order longer ones from a roofing supply company, places like Lowes and Home Desperate don't carry anything longer than 2 inches.

[tis]

Originally Posted by TheProfessor

Thank you for taking time to post.

Yes, I can use the internet. I can go to metal roofing companies on the internet. I can visit every lumber yard in area. Got it.

HERE, I am asking for first hand knowledge. People that have actually had a metal roof installed and their opinions. And others that may know of installations of friends and neighbors.

But thanks for responding.

But your might or might not get good advice on here, but I know you know that. People who have liked or not liked a builder or even liked a certain product, I can see, but when you ask about material and pricing it seems to me you would get it from where you buy. Not trying to be wise, just asking.

[mneck1814]

I have a standing seam and it has been a great roof. They certainly are not cheap to install but you do save on the labor of tearing off the old roof if it is going over shingles.

Depending on the design of your house and where the snow will slide off, you will want to install the snow guards above entry doors or garage doors. They hold the snow on the roof over the doors so that it is not constantly sliding off in front of the doors. The snow that is held on melts in a few days once the rest of the roof is clear and can warm up.

If you do put it on over your shingles, the way the metal wraps around the shingles at the edge of the roof above the fascia creates just enough of an additional over hang that if you have 4" gutters you may need to upsize to 6". The water was shooting right over my gutters after I had the new roof put on - and my parents had to do the same a few years later when they had a standing seam put on.

We also have metal at camp which was replaced 20 years ago and still looks great. When we put the new roof on camp in 1998, it was replacing a metal roof that was installed in 1940! You just don't get that life out of shingles..

[Orion]

I've had a steel roof on my island house for 15 years now and have had several issues. I wouldn't recommend the type with exposed screws. Sliding ice can hammer those and create leaks. Get the ones with hidden brackets. Also, there will be sliding ice/snow unless you put the ice stops along the roof where you don't want large amounts of snow/ice hammering decks/structure or people below. I've had water intrusion along the cut edge where the installer didn't put the right flashing or create enough overhang.

edit: ha ha...just noticed similar issues posted while I was composing this.

[NH.Solar]

You might give Joe Wyatt a call at 455-6395. I'm not sure if he does metal roofs, but it never hurts to ask. I have an overlap seam metal roof and love it. There is one caveat though, the snow can slide off with a considerable amount of force so be sure that the area below your eaves is clear of delicate plants or objects

PS, When I installed both the roof and my barnboard siding, I used 2x 4s laid flat and 24" apart (not o.c.) as purlins. I then pressed 1.5 foam board in between for insulation and tyveked the whole shell. This may or may not work for you depending on the insulation and vapor seal already in place, but it makes a huge difference. My neighbor had his shingled roof redone with steel in this manner a few years back and reports it to have made a big difference for him as well. Overlap ribbed roofs vent fairly well

[jeffk]

We had a new metal roof put on last year by Drew's Affordable Steel Roofing in Laconia. Drew's Affordable Steel Roofing

They have several types of roofing available. They make their own standing seam and therefore can do it affordably.

One big consideration is the snow dumping. It is loud (startling) when the snow slides and it will probably wipe out anything in it's path. Could your kids be playing around the house in the winter? That might be a problem in my mind. We went with the Decra steel shingles which is a pricier but IMO better looking roof that I will never have to replace and will look good for 50 years. The surface of the shingle is a stone dust baked into epoxy. The steel is the thickest they offer and is warranted for 50 years. The design does NOT dump snow, which is what we wanted. The steel is treated to resist rust. The projected lifetime is possibly 100 years which retains value at resale.

We have a 28x48 ranch and it took a day and a half for them to do the job. The cost was about $14,000. They went right over one layer of old shingles but if it had been two layers I think they would have had to remove them and that would have cost extra. They put a vapor barrier over the old roof. They replaced all the drip edge with custom stuff, integrated the new roof into any siding areas, put special caps along the chimney and integrated vents (replaced mine) and stack pipes into the new roof. New metal vent cap along the peak.

It looks gorgeous and no one looking at it can believe it is a metal roof. I worried about it being noisy in the rain; it is not. It is essentially impervious to hail and more wind and fire resistant than a standard roof.

Attached picture of a house in Gilford with Decra Steel Shingles.

The only problem with the company is they are VERY busy. I obviously can't speak for them but it could take 3+ months before they get to do the job. I had a tarp put over a leaky area on the roof and waited for them. It was WELL worth it. WHY? Because the proper installation process for a metal roof is CRITICAL to a good leakless outcome. These guys know how to do it well.

[KennyFromBoston]

My only concern with a metal roof is in the event of a fire. I don't believe many firemen are supportive of metal roof as it makes their job a lot more difficult. This is just an opinion if others have more information I'd like to hear it.

[Tackleman]

We put an aluminum roof on three threes ago and love it. It has a slate design in a copper color and it looks fantastic. I wanted a roof that would last, look great and save energy. Our roof does all of that. It is stronger than steel, will not rust or have the color fade. You do have to remove the fallen snow quickly or it will freeze like a rock. Larger size gutters are also required.

[Orion]

Once you're spending up in price for those beautiful metal shingle roofs, how much more to get the new solar shingles and get off the grid?

[upthesaukee]

My only input is that I was told by more than one installer that the roof pitch should be at least 4:1. My back roof, which is my winter problem, is less than that, not by much, but it is less.
If I could install a metal roof, I would not gave a problem with where the snow off the roof fell.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app

[longislander]

I installed a ribbed metal roof, myself, after studying online for about a year before retirement. I pre-measured the house, addition, separate bath, etc. for lengths. I believe I had around 15 different pre-cut lengths. I ordered through A&B Lumber in Moultonborough, where I live. Best price.

I installed over shingles and used few purlins, only as filler to get the right angle going from roof to porch.

These are the screw-in type of panels. The manufacturers say to screw through the flats, if using screws, or through the ribs, if using nails. Reasoning is for metal expansion/contraction due to heat in summer etc. I didn't agree, and used screws through the ribs and am happy with the results. This was in 2013. The screws are gasketed.

[sky's]

Originally Posted by longislander

I installed a ribbed metal roof, myself, after studying online for about a year before retirement. I pre-measured the house, addition, separate bath, etc. for lengths. I believe I had around 15 different pre-cut lengths. I ordered through A&B Lumber in Moultonborough, where I live. Best price.

I installed over shingles and used few purlins, only as filler to get the right angle going from roof to porch.

These are the screw-in type of panels. The manufacturers say to screw through the flats, if using screws, or through the ribs, if using nails. Reasoning is for metal expansion/contraction due to heat in summer etc. I didn't agree, and used screws through the ribs and am happy with the results. This was in 2013. The screws are gasketed.

should have listened to the manufacturer over time the holes created from the screws thru the ribs will enlarge with seasonal temperature changes. reason to fasten on the flat part of the metal roof is to create direct contact with the strapping that hopefully you installed over the shingles 16-24" on center. metal roof are good in some applications however they have many draw backs. Good luck

[longislander]

I already stated the manufacturer's reasoning for metal expansion/ contraction, was their reasoning for the flats v. the ribs. I'm familiar with physics.

The same phenomenon occurs with nails, except they supposedly bend, instead of break.

What happens with rain in the flats v. the ribs! What is the probability of rain accumulating over a rib v. a flat spot, regardless of screws or nails. Repeat, I installed over shingles, that were and are still weatherproof. Do the holes for nails not cause hole change ... maybe. If the fasteners cause holes to enlarge, which is worse ... the flats or the ribs. No, I did not install purlins (not strapping).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15df...vPoIpRxjCH1Cau

https://www.fabral.com/wp-content/up...2/bluebook.pdf


What is your experience with installing ... that is verifiable.

It's been close to four years, and I'm very happy with the results.

[ishoot308]

Longislander;

Just out of curiosity one of the benefits to metal roof systems is the long warranty offered by many reputable manufacturers. Some of these warranties are lifetime. Did you not put this warranty in jeopardy by purposely installing not in accordance with manufacturer guidelines??

What did you put under the raised section of metal roof to take up the space so proper pressure could be put on sealing washer and to keep roof from denting or deflecting at anchor locations?

Thanks!

Dan

[longislander]

Dan,

"Guidelines" are not "instructions" ... legally (speaking as an MBA and NH certified paralegal for over 20 years). Warranty intact, but read what is guaranteed. I chose the highest level coating/paint offered by the manufacturer.

Not sure what you mean by "put under the raised section of metal roof to take up the space". The panels are flat unto the shingled roof. The screw's tension is determined by the gasket "squashing/not squashing". I used a standard screw from the panel manufacturer; 14-10X2 ST 17 ASTER W/W OXY PNT; a #10 WOODTITE fastener with gasket. There was no problem getting grip. The issue is/was, not to over-tighten the screw, and compromise the seal.

Another issue was/is if the panels are placed on purlins or strapping, say 2x4's, and the "recommended" spacing is wrong, what stops the panels from bending when they are walked-on? I spaced at 12" on center on the ribs, and doubled at the termination points (end of panel). I've been on the roof several times to upgrade chimney attachments, get rid of Satellite antennae, etc. and have no problem, nor qualm about panels bending or having a reverse bump.

Caveat; when roof is wet, very slippery.

[ishoot308]

Originally Posted by longislander

Dan,

"Guidelines" are not "instructions" ... legally (speaking as an MBA and NH certified paralegal for over 20 years). Warranty intact, but read what is guaranteed. I chose the highest level coating/paint offered by the manufacturer.

Thanks for your reply!

You were smart to take the best coating / paint offering the manufacturer has offered. In my business which includes Aluminum extrusion and composite metal panels as well as insulated metal panels, many times the best coatings are more expensive than the product they are covering. For longevity and durability the best and highest quality coating is ALWAYS the way the go...not so much for budget though!

Dan

[SIKSUKR]

Originally Posted by KennyFromBoston

My only concern with a metal roof is in the event of a fire. I don't believe many firemen are supportive of metal roof as it makes their job a lot more difficult. This is just an opinion if others have more information I'd like to hear it.

I thought the saws they used would cut through anything. Referring to the rotary saws.

[KennyFromBoston]

Fire Departments do have saws that can cut though metal roofs. When a structure is on fire I'm told metal roofs keep the heat/smoke/fire inside the building. Firemen like to open up the roof to vent and attack the fire. Again, I'm not a fireman but that's what I was told.

[TheProfessor]

So far I have two names - Joe Wyatt - and - Drew's Affordable Steel Roofing as contacts.

Thanks for all the other discussions about metal roofing.

[Guiness]

Professor -

I used Mead and Braley to install a standing seam roof. We used Englert metal roofing. Very happy.

[CaptT820]

Ive seen that others have placed the steel roofs directly over the existing shingles. What if the shingles are ~50 years old and deteriorating, should the shingles be removed prior to installation? We are looking to shingle/re-roof a bunkhouse and want to use some type of steel product.

Thanks

[jeffk]

Originally Posted by CaptT820

Ive seen that others have placed the steel roofs directly over the existing shingles. What if the shingles are ~50 years old and deteriorating, should the shingles be removed prior to installation? We are looking to shingle/re-roof a bunkhouse and want to use some type of steel product.

Thanks

Our shingles (one layer) were only 16 years old but they were a mess, curled up and crumbling. They scraped (leveled) off any raised or loose areas, put some type of vapor barrier over the existing roof, and then the metal roof over that. If you are having someone do the job, ask them and let them do it as recommended. If doing yourself, ask the distributor or the manufacturer. Get it in writing. The bottom line is, if they give you bad advice and there is a problem, it's THEIR fault. If you don't ask or do it the way YOU think it should be done, it's YOUR fault.

[TheProfessor]

Thanks Jeffk for the pictures. Looks beautiful.

Thank you all others for input and names of contractors and brand names of products.