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Old 07-06-2011, 07:39 AM   #1
CrownRay
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Default Breaker Ruins Fireworks....

So, take the boat out Monday night to go see the fireworks in Center Harbor. Five minutes into the cruise out there...disaster! GPS, RADIO, DASHBOARD, NAV LIGHT....DARK!!! Damn. Turn around, back to the dock.

Can't diagnose it because I can't lift the hydrolic engine hatch :-(

Need to wait until the morning...

Tuesday Morning, steam over to good ol'e Channel. We get the hatch up by "jumping" the electrical system. Turns out, the breaker that runs the helm power tripped...Had to wait at the marina almost 2 hours for a 20 second fix. Oh well, such is life.

Good thing this didn't happen in the middle of the lake!

Why do boat builders make it so hard to fix things out there? What would have happened if this was LAST summer, when this same boat was in Boston Harbor? That would have sucked. Lesson learned....carry a battery pack...ALWAYS! (In this case, to lift the engine hatch by by-passing the electrical)
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:19 AM   #2
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The breaker that runs the hatch is under the hatch, that's an unfortunate design choice.

My first two boats had an access panel where you could reach in and pull a pin that disconnected the hydraulic ram. Then with some effort the ahtch would open manually. I haven't found this on my latest boat.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:30 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrc View Post
The breaker that runs the hatch is under the hatch, that's an unfortunate design choice.

My first two boats had an access panel where you could reach in and pull a pin that disconnected the hydraulic ram. Then with some effort the ahtch would open manually. I haven't found this on my latest boat.

Yes, the SeaRay that's in the harbor now, DOES have a way to manually open the engine hatch. I agree that it's a poor design to have that important electrical device out of reach if you loose power. Most average boaters (including me!) would not know to "bypass" the electrical system to get the hatch open. Plus, it weighs over 200 pounds, so if you are alone...GOOD LUCK!!! In fact, the owner's manual had NO mention on how to get it open.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:34 PM   #4
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You really need to find out why the breaker tripped. Resetting a breaker is rarely the final fix to an electrical problem...

My boat has one of the electric rams and access panels for getting to a release pin. I have to remember to briefly hit the "open hatch" button after I close it, or the ram puts so much tension on the hardware that I can't remove the release pin. If I forget to do that and lose power, I'm kinda screwed. I'm tinking about taking the electric ram out and installing a hinged prop rod instead. The hatch only weighs about 80- 100 lbs and I can lift it without too much effort. The ram only lifts the hatch enough to get to basic maintenance items anyway; to do "real" maintenance, I have to disconnect the ram and use a 6 foot prop rod that came with the boat.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:55 PM   #5
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Yes, I agree we will have to figure out what caused it to trip. We had "everything" on so I am wondering if it just couln't handle it. Although, that does not make sense...its all stardard equipment. There must be a short somewhere.

(My brother installed the VHF radio and the GPS, but its been fine for over a year...maybe hitting wakes, and the salt water?? so anything's possible!)
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:25 PM   #6
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Breakers do wear out, especially in salt water.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:20 PM   #7
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Default Design flaw or poor choice...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrc View Post
The breaker that runs the hatch is under the hatch, that's an unfortunate design choice.

My first two boats had an access panel where you could reach in and pull a pin that disconnected the hydraulic ram. Then with some effort the ahtch would open manually. I haven't found this on my latest boat.
When I was in the Air Force, I was getting prepared for my three rides in an AF T-33 (first, last, only,) and they talked about the ejection sequence in the unlikely event I would have to eject from the plane. The instructions were on a sticker stuck on the side of the cockpit. First step is to jettison the canopy. They told me a prototype of one airplane had the instructions on a sticker that was applied to the canopy. First step was to jettison the canopy as well. Ooooooooops

Crown Ray, sorry you had a problem and hope it is an easy fix. Back to the subject at hand.
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:29 PM   #8
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I'd consider splitting the system into multiple circuits. Locate the new breakers someplace you can easily reach when needed.

Good luck!
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