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Old 05-25-2021, 08:31 PM   #1
Sue Doe-Nym
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Default Dull boat finish

SOS.....our boat finish looks terrible, especially the black. We thought we had someone lined up to polish it, but that didn’t pan out. Do any of you have suggestions for a product that would get us through this season, something that 2 old fogies could do fairly easily? Perfection would be great, but we don’t expect that. A liquid polish that we could apply with clean cloths to the fiberglass, for instance, would get my vote. Thank you in advance.

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Old 05-25-2021, 09:20 PM   #2
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I just did my boat with Meguiars:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M503...%2C1322&sr=8-3

To me, it is worth owning an orbital buffer. The days of waxing by hand are far behind me. The cheap ones work but there is more vibration. The more expensive ones are easier to use.
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Old 05-25-2021, 09:55 PM   #3
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I just did my boat with Meguiars:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M503...%2C1322&sr=8-3

To me, it is worth owning an orbital buffer. The days of waxing by hand are far behind me. The cheap ones work but there is more vibration. The more expensive ones are easier to use.
That sounds like a perfect Father’s Day present. Thank you! He will want to try it out. ��
Turns out he has one. I was hoping for an easy fix, such as a liquid that would dry with a little shine. I’m not lazy, just tired and over the hill.
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Old 05-25-2021, 11:18 PM   #4
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I wash my car and boat with a wash 'n wax type car wash product that contains carnauba.

The shine is nice and I don't have to perform a separate waxing.
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Old 05-26-2021, 08:34 AM   #5
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just buffed and waxed with Shurhold products - amazing
parafunalia carries it as that is what some of detailers use in the area
https://shurhold.com/?gclid=EAIaIQob...SAAEgIz1PD_BwE
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Old 05-26-2021, 10:20 AM   #6
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I have a black hull, so I feel your pain!

You need a power buffer of some type, and then use Meguires #67 or Surehold Buff Magic. These two are the easiest to use without major problems that don't dry out while you're using them. Or you can use some 3M products.

If the oxidation is very bad. you may need something more aggressive (3M heavy cut), or perhaps even a wet sanding first (which is a much larger job).

If you get a 'one step' type buff and wax product, sometimes you can't tell if the shine you are getting is because of the wax, or because you buffed it properly. if done properly it will have a nice shine to it BEFORE YOU WAX IT. The wax ends up being a shine enhancer and a protection.

The types with the built in wax often will initially look good, but then look bad again a few weeks or month later because you didn't clean the oxidation off and polished your gel-coat, you just covered it in wax.

Once you learn how, it's not hard to do (meaning it's not a hard skill to learn), it just takes time. Be careful to not hold the buffer in one place, keep it slowly moving.

Watch some youtube videos, or I can stop by and show you (send me a PM if you would like), but won't be near the lake until this weekend.

You can get a cheap buffer at harbor freight, or get something nicer (deWalt, Makita, etc). I mostly use foam pads for buffing, but most others like wool pads. Just learn to keep them clean and not caked with old dried buffing compound.
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Old 05-26-2021, 10:28 AM   #7
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If dull and faded looking your gonna have to work it and it isn't much much fun! Really only get that hazy look off with a 3M rubbing compound and a cutting pad on on RO buffer like a Porter Cable or something. After Rubbing compound a coat of 3M Finnesse then follow by your wax or polish. I like Star Brite Marine Polish with Teflon. Its alot of work.


Easier method.............go to Chemical Guys website and but some spray detailer and spray wax. Wipe on wipe off. It will shine until it gets rained on. Then repeat.

If money is no object hit Diamond Shine in Guilford........
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Old 05-26-2021, 05:14 PM   #8
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Started with this



Bought THIS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY4YT

And THIS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UKUURO

And Got This. It is literally like new. Did it in like 6 hours. Not terribly hard with the right tools. Nor that expensive.
Quotes were like $5000.00+ which was ridiculous. I think I converted to 4" pads and you need an assortment of pads.
Don't waste your time with anything that is "One Step". There is no short cut in doing it right so it will last.

That finish is BEFORE WAX.



Unless you REMOVE the oxidation, anything you put on will last half a season, if that. I was amazed with the results and it lasted about 5 years each time. I did it twice.
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Old 05-26-2021, 05:39 PM   #9
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I'm not sure where MSWLOGO got a $500 quote. His boat must be a lot largert than mine.Last year I had Diamondshine do ceramic coating on my 1994 24' Sea Ray. Looks showroom new and I expect it to last 4 years (stored in valet) The marina washes it at the end of the season, but minimal charge since no chemicals, no scrubbing. I recall the price was $125/foot. Detailed inside and out as well, included.
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Old 05-26-2021, 06:17 PM   #10
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Default Getty Shine

I have used Getty Shine for our boat over the past few years . They have come to the marina and completed a full detail and the outside on site at the marina . They recently completed a friends 330 Seay Ray with ceramic and the boat looks brand new again. They are by Vanworks by the Laconia airport as well. They have done excellent work for me
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Old 05-26-2021, 06:35 PM   #11
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Default Helpful suggestions

Thank you, all. Descant and Grove have great ideas for future work. With everyone descending on us soon, we will need the boat in service, but $3000 for a 24’ boat doesn’t sound outlandish, especially if it lasts. Sounds like a plan for winter or spring. We really appreciate knowing your experiences, everyone.
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Old 05-26-2021, 07:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiltonBB View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M503...%2C1322&sr=8-3

To me, it is worth owning an orbital buffer. The days of waxing by hand are far behind me. The cheap ones work but there is more vibration. The more expensive ones are easier to use.
I see a lot of great suggestions here all good !!!!!
However, the originator of this Thread indicated 'something they could do together fairly easily' I'm thinking these type of cures suggested may be too much labor intensive work for them to handle themselves.

That said IMHO, the quickest and easiest way would be to follow Tilton BB suggestion and use Meguiars-M5032-Marine-Step-Cleaner and an orbital buffer. Meguiars-M532-Marine-Step-Cleaner may be hard to find unless you go to a boat yard. My suggestion would be to buy Meguiars Cleaner Wax, which you cab buy at Wal-Mart or most auto parts store. I use .this product on all my cars with amazing results. I suspect there may be little difference between the marine wax or automotive and strictly a marketing hype, I could be wrong.....

Also in that same thread, mentioned using a orbital buffer, which you can purchase cheap at Harbor Freight in Gilford. I would start with wool pads first on the buffer for 'cutting' the oxidation , then change over to foam pads for buffing.

This solution, certainly may not be as good or last as long as others mentioned and you may have to repeat during the season.

Good luck !
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Old 05-26-2021, 08:43 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Descant View Post
I'm not sure where MSWLOGO got a $500 quote. His boat must be a lot largert than mine.Last year I had Diamondshine do ceramic coating on my 1994 24' Sea Ray. Looks showroom new and I expect it to last 4 years (stored in valet) The marina washes it at the end of the season, but minimal charge since no chemicals, no scrubbing. I recall the price was $125/foot. Detailed inside and out as well, included.
$500 !!! I would have had them do it in a blink.

My boat was on the water the whole summer. Is your Valet shaded?

The place I asked, just didn't want to do the job which is why they quoted so high, I think they might have been even higher.

Be curious how the ceramic holds up. I ceramic coated my car, not sure it was worth it.

I removed the oxidation. Effectively you are removing the top layer of gel coat. That's the best way. Curious if they removed oxidation before they put on the ceramic. Ceramic is essentially good wax (good protection), but it does not solve the underlying problem. You protect it with wax or ceramic after you solve the problem.

I agree with folks, this is a job for an orbital with the CORRECT grit to remove the right amount of gel coat. If a boat looks "dull" it's almost guaranteed heavy oxidation.

OP said they were not lazy and sounded like they wanted to do it themselves. I guess not.

The "light oxidation" stuff would be to maintain it. Almost guarantee the light stuff won't touch it if it's years of oxidation and you'll get frustrated.

Picture would help.
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Old 05-26-2021, 08:58 PM   #14
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To answer mswlogo: we are just not up for a huge DIY project...too long in the tooth for that....BUT, as a temporary fix, something not too strenuous or time consuming we could manage. However, it’s a great boat, and definitely worth the ceramic treatment, just not now at the start of a busy boating season. There are some very worthwhile suggestions here.
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Old 05-26-2021, 09:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Sue Doe-Nym View Post
To answer mswlogo: we are just not up for a huge DIY project...too long in the tooth for that....BUT, as a temporary fix, something not too strenuous or time consuming we could manage. However, it’s a great boat, and definitely worth the ceramic treatment, just not now at the start of a busy boating season. There are some very worthwhile suggestions here.
It’s really not that bad. The worst part is that it’s wicked boring.

The orbital and the right grit do most of the work.

I highly suspect you’ll need what I posted. How does your boat look compared to what I posted.

The first step is a strong compound. But the orbital and grit will do most of the elbow grease.
After a layer is literally sanded off, you polish that smooth with orbital. Then you put on a wax to protect it.

This is why the 3 step is the EASIEST. Big reason is you KNOW when you have removed the oxidation. You are also putting all effort in to removing it. Trying to remove, polish and wax all in one is hard. They fight each other. It will shine but you’ll likely be hiding it with wax that won’t last. After second step it will look done with no artificial covering. The last step is an attempt to make it last, not cover it up.

It’s very satisfying and you don’t have to do it all in one shot. Sounds like you have the orbital. You’ll need a a bunch of pads. Probably 6 firm ones depending on boat size. My boat was a 20’.
I’m 60 BTW and in “ok” shape. Oh, I only did the sides/back, no way I did under, which tends not to oxidize that much any way and often not colored gel coat which shows it up the most.

Note you don’t want one of those huge waxing orbital buffers with hand grips on each side and had fluffy pads that were like 10-12” That cost $30 at Walmart. Those are junk.

This is the one I have. It’s really powerful. But I think I used 4” pads to dig deeper without pushing harder. But that takes longer. Wear ear protection and a mask and you won’t be so worn out too.

https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage.../dp/B08GP2CWD8

The temporary fixes are so disappointing. It will look better, but half way through the season it will look like it does now, believe me I tried.
Think of it as about 3 back to back temporary fixes worth of work. But will last 10x longer.

Here is a video of someone doing it. I'd ignore the baby oil tip. Oh ignore the huffing and puffing keep in mind he is doing a HUGE boat here, so he is using a large oribital with a large pad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qeexj0jhJp4

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Old 05-26-2021, 10:58 PM   #16
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Default Easy peasy

I had the advantage of geography on my side. The "Viking" is valeted at MVYC, across the street from Diamondshine. I don't own a trailer. Diamondshine picked up the boat, did the work and returned it. Finestkind, all I did was phone calls. They coordinated with the NE Boat Show (Boston) where they prep boats for several dealers and manufacturers. Nobody told me this, but I assume they get this work because nobody else does it better. Several other posters at the time said great things about their work. Now, I say great things about their work and service. Of course, easier to do this stuff in the winter, so Sue, do your "one step" now, and make plans for fall/winter when you will get a "new boat". As I age, I have learned to give great phone. Doing it by hand is too much.
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Old 05-27-2021, 12:54 AM   #17
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I had the advantage of geography on my side. The "Viking" is valeted at MVYC, across the street from Diamondshine. I don't own a trailer. Diamondshine picked up the boat, did the work and returned it. Finestkind, all I did was phone calls. They coordinated with the NE Boat Show (Boston) where they prep boats for several dealers and manufacturers. Nobody told me this, but I assume they get this work because nobody else does it better. Several other posters at the time said great things about their work. Now, I say great things about their work and service. Of course, easier to do this stuff in the winter, so Sue, do your "one step" now, and make plans for fall/winter when you will get a "new boat". As I age, I have learned to give great phone. Doing it by hand is too much.
And you have first hand experience doing it yourself with an orbital (which I don’t consider as “by hand”) when you say “is too much”, right?

$3000.00 “is too much” in my book.
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Old 05-27-2021, 06:54 AM   #18
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All this talk of DIY boat polishing vs paying someone has my back and my wallet aching.

For a long time now I have known that I have two capital accounts.

In the first there is body capital, which is the remaining balance of physical effort that I can apply to a project.

The second capital account contains money which can be exchanged for tasks that I might have done myself in earlier years.

Since I prefer to use what is in the first account for fun things I find myself paying for services more often now.

Last year I got a quote of $2,600 to do a ceramic and polishing job on my 24' boat.

I checked both accounts.

My back said "NO!" and my wallet concurred.

If you see me out on the lake please wave.

I'm the guy in the faded, dull Searay.

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Old 05-27-2021, 06:59 AM   #19
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All this talk of DIY boat polishing vs paying someone has my back and my wallet aching.

For a long time now I have known that I have two capital accounts.

In the first there is body capital, which is the remaining balance of physical effort that I can apply to a project.

The second capital account contains money which can be exchanged for tasks that I might have done myself in earlier years.

Since I prefer to use what is in the first account for fun things I find myself paying for services more often now.

Last year I got a quote of $2,600 to do a ceramic and polishing job on my 24' boat.

I checked both accounts.

My back said "NO!" and my wallet concurred.

If you see me out on the lake please wave.

I'm the guy in the faded, dull Searay.

I fear that I've reached that same stage at a much younger age...though with a much smaller second capital account! Good thing Jettie One only needs a wipe down here and there and Boatie Two has zero fiberglass!

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Old 05-27-2021, 08:10 AM   #20
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I fear that I've reached that same stage at a much younger age...though with a much smaller second capital account! Good thing Jettie One only needs a wipe down here and there and Boatie Two has zero fiberglass!

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Why does everyone think this is a back breaking job?

My guess is, you’ve attempted to “shine it” it by other means and just concluded it needs tons of elbow grease to “fix it”.

The body part(s) that are most taxed isn’t your back, it’s your shoulders if anything. And maybe your feet because you’re standing quite a while. I jacked my trailer up on blocks so I didn’t have to crouch much. Platform pops off. But in fairness it was not a “deep V” I/O boat. It was a full inboard ski boat. So the side walls are not as tall as many boats.

BTW, I sold one boat because it was all dulled up and I too thought it not worth the investment or my back. The guy I sold it to polished it and was shocked how nice it came out. I still assumed he had to of broke his back doing it though, that fool. When the next boat dulled up I thought I’m not doing that again and gave it a shot. Could not be happier I didn’t take the lazy route. I was the fool with my old boat and realized how dumb I was to never even try on the old boat.

With all the shortages and demand on everything these days good luck getting it done even at the ~$3000 rate. Good advice though to try and make arrangements now though.

I have not heard from anyone here that has done it, say I did it, came out great and I’ll never do it again because it was to much work. Just “armchair quarterbacks” giving advice on how much physical labor it is that has never done it.

One possible valid argument is your time is more valuable. But my argument there is I often see people spend more time bringing their boat or car somewhere. Wait at their mercy and then go pick it up. I often do things myself because I can control the schedule. And in the end save time. Then I go waste it posting here
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Old 05-27-2021, 08:44 AM   #21
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Back, shoulders, arms... different day, different OUCH!
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Old 05-27-2021, 09:07 AM   #22
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Why does everyone think this is a back breaking job?

My guess is, you’ve attempted to “shine it” it by other means and just concluded it needs tons of elbow grease to “fix it”.

The body part(s) that are most taxed isn’t your back, it’s your shoulders if anything. And maybe your feet because you’re standing quite a while. I jacked my trailer up on blocks so I didn’t have to crouch much. Platform pops off. But in fairness it was not a “deep V” I/O boat. It was a full inboard ski boat. So the side walls are not as tall as many boats.

BTW, I sold one boat because it was all dulled up and I too thought it not worth the investment or my back. The guy I sold it to polished it and was shocked how nice it came out. I still assumed he had to of broke his back doing it though, that fool. When the next boat dulled up I thought I’m not doing that again and gave it a shot. Could not be happier I didn’t take the lazy route. I was the fool with my old boat and realized how dumb I was to never even try on the old boat.

With all the shortages and demand on everything these days good luck getting it done even at the ~$3000 rate. Good advice though to try and make arrangements now though.

I have not heard from anyone here that has done it, say I did it, came out great and I’ll never do it again because it was to much work. Just “armchair quarterbacks” giving advice on how much physical labor it is that has never done it.

One possible valid argument is your time is more valuable. But my argument there is I often see people spend more time bringing their boat or car somewhere. Wait at their mercy and then go pick it up. I often do things myself because I can control the schedule. And in the end save time. Then I go waste it posting here
In my case, with two kids, time does equal money. That being said, it's less about the difficulty and more about the perceived value. For example, I scrounge and split my own firewood because I enjoy the exercise and using machines (chainsaws are awesome), and the free heat and ambience is both wonderful and economical.

So, part of my decision-making process is the consideration of long-term maintenance. My pontoon requires some wiping down and UV treatment of the seats and general cleaning, which is about it.

Both my homes, also, are easy to maintain. Rock instead of mulch, drainage solutions instead of gutters, etc.

Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to a maintenance free life I go!

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Old 05-27-2021, 09:15 AM   #23
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Why does everyone think this is a back breaking job?

My guess is, you’ve attempted to “shine it” it by other means and just concluded it needs tons of elbow grease to “fix it”.

The body part(s) that are most taxed isn’t your back, it’s your shoulders if anything. And maybe your feet because you’re standing quite a while. I jacked my trailer up on blocks so I didn’t have to crouch much. Platform pops off. But in fairness it was not a “deep V” I/O boat. It was a full inboard ski boat. So the side walls are not as tall as many boats.

BTW, I sold one boat because it was all dulled up and I too thought it not worth the investment or my back. The guy I sold it to polished it and was shocked how nice it came out. I still assumed he had to of broke his back doing it though, that fool. When the next boat dulled up I thought I’m not doing that again and gave it a shot. Could not be happier I didn’t take the lazy route. I was the fool with my old boat and realized how dumb I was to never even try on the old boat.

With all the shortages and demand on everything these days good luck getting it done even at the ~$3000 rate. Good advice though to try and make arrangements now though.

I have not heard from anyone here that has done it, say I did it, came out great and I’ll never do it again because it was to much work. Just “armchair quarterbacks” giving advice on how much physical labor it is that has never done it.

One possible valid argument is your time is more valuable. But my argument there is I often see people spend more time bringing their boat or car somewhere. Wait at their mercy and then go pick it up. I often do things myself because I can control the schedule. And in the end save time. Then I go waste it posting here
I don't own a trailer. In the case of ceramic coating, the work was done in February, and Diamond Shine transported the boat back and forth. This year, different boat, I had Hi-Gloss Boat Restorations do some varnish work in March. Once the boat was in their shop we decided to add other projects that I had been postponing. Try to add projects in the spring or summer--can't be done. Again, the boat was transported back and forth. I never left the office. Pictures via email. For me, that's controlling the schedule.
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Old 05-27-2021, 09:31 AM   #24
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I bought this one at Harbor Freight, and after using the expensive ones, while this is not exact, it is perfect for someone that will use it 2-3 times or a little more a year
https://www.harborfreight.com/corded...her-56367.html
its a new one that just came out. I love it.

first used Starbrite ultra fiberglass stain remover to wash the boat
then Wet sanded with 1000 grit
Then wool pad with Shurhold Magic Buff
Then foam pad applying Shurhold Polish wax
and then the Shurhold microfiber bonnet to polish in the wax
Boat came out amazing, hadn't been done in at least 8 years I owned the boat I was quote $100-$125 a foot
I did it for under $250 total and a about 16 hours over three days - I was constantly interrupted and I took my time, was my first boat and I was nervous as hell - tapping off the vinyl stripes and lettering was a long time to protect from wet sand. Shoulders and forearms hurt for two days after, but now a polish wax once a year maybe a cutt buff every two and it will be fine. upkeep is key otherwise you will do the long term trip like i did. But I enjoyed it - the work is easy just the time

Finish pictures were only after the cut Buff except the last was after polish wax applied, tape was removed for vinyl to be polished waxed
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Old 05-27-2021, 10:12 AM   #25
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Default Terrific job!

AC, the boat looks terrific. You should be very proud. Watch out....people will start lining up for your services. 🙄
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Old 05-27-2021, 10:54 AM   #26
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It’s not a back breaking job at all it just takes time…a long time if your doing the boat inside and out. Mine is a 20 ft Proline walk around cuddly. A good wash and dry inside and out 1.5 hrs. Waxing the interior is about 2 hrs. A lot of tight areas an orbital is not going to get so those are hand wax and buff. The exterior of the hull takes another 1.5. If you have to oxidation that just adds to it. I did the ceramic coating about 5 years ago when it was a lot cheaper than now. It looked great. It lasted 2 summers. The cost of doing it now is rediculous now IMO and not worth it.
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Old 05-27-2021, 10:59 AM   #27
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Default Real lazy route

At the local auto store find NU-FINISH sealant. It's a quick and easy way to get a decent shine that will last the season.

You can apply by hand, but better off using an orbital buffer. Harbor Freight has a decent buffer at a reasonable cost. Try the microfiber bonnet and see if you get a good shine. If you need a more aggressive cut to achieve a shine, use a wool bonnet. Both available on Amazon. Buy a lot of bonnets, they clog up quickly.

Personally, I prefer 3M polishes. For mild oxidation I use Perfect-It compound follow by Finesse-It and use a good sealant such as West Marine AFP liquid Wax. If there is no oxidation, skip the Perfect-It step. The sealant should provide UV protection. A major reason why gel coat oxidize.
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Old 05-27-2021, 09:08 PM   #28
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A year or two ago I was wasting time watching YouTube videos. I started watching ones using a foam gun to wash cars and ended up at one where a detailed was using a combo compound/polish on a badly oxidized car. In one step, using an orbital he took a section of the car from an ugly redish white to an amazing brilliant fire engine red. I thought to myself, “this will be amazing on the boat.” I got called away and turned off my phone. A couple of days later I tried to find the video to get the name of the combo material. You think I could find it again?

Anyway, this is the first year in ten that I have the boat on a trailer in someplace I can get to it. After reading this thread you’ve got me pumped. I’m going to attack it with my orbital, compound and a good sealing wax.


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Old 05-27-2021, 09:27 PM   #29
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Could be How to Foam Cannon Car Wash - Chemical Guys V7 Car Wash Soap...or
Foam Cannon Car Wash Tutorial
These are shots in the dark
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Old 05-28-2021, 02:48 PM   #30
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Thanks Sue but it was a different subject from the foam cannon. I clicked on one of the video’s that run down the side of the screen while watching a foam cannon vid. It was about polishing and had a pic of a badly oxidized car.


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Old 05-28-2021, 11:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2717 View Post
I bought this one at Harbor Freight, and after using the expensive ones, while this is not exact, it is perfect for someone that will use it 2-3 times or a little more a year
https://www.harborfreight.com/corded...her-56367.html
its a new one that just came out. I love it.

first used Starbrite ultra fiberglass stain remover to wash the boat
then Wet sanded with 1000 grit
Then wool pad with Shurhold Magic Buff
Then foam pad applying Shurhold Polish wax
and then the Shurhold microfiber bonnet to polish in the wax
Boat came out amazing, hadn't been done in at least 8 years I owned the boat I was quote $100-$125 a foot
I did it for under $250 total and a about 16 hours over three days - I was constantly interrupted and I took my time, was my first boat and I was nervous as hell - tapping off the vinyl stripes and lettering was a long time to protect from wet sand. Shoulders and forearms hurt for two days after, but now a polish wax once a year maybe a cutt buff every two and it will be fine. upkeep is key otherwise you will do the long term trip like i did. But I enjoyed it - the work is easy just the time

Finish pictures were only after the cut Buff except the last was after polish wax applied, tape was removed for vinyl to be polished waxed
Looks great. I didn’t bother taping off stripes and they were fine.
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Old 05-29-2021, 06:54 AM   #32
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Looks great. I didn’t bother taping off stripes and they were fine.
I was worried in the wet sand that they would be cut up or ripped off. Two guys I had price out said it could happen. Also with the bottom paint the black would get dragged into the mix (happened once on me) Next time for just cut Buff and Wax I won't tape off.
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Old 05-29-2021, 09:20 AM   #33
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I was worried in the wet sand that they would be cut up or ripped off. Two guys I had price out said it could happen. Also with the bottom paint the black would get dragged into the mix (happened once on me) Next time for just cut Buff and Wax I won't tape off.
I see. Yeah you took it a step more aggressive than I did.

Is the bottom actually “paint”? Because gelcoat(s) shouldn’t “smear” no matter how aggressive you get.
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Old 05-30-2021, 11:16 PM   #34
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I see. Yeah you took it a step more aggressive than I did.

Is the bottom actually “paint”? Because gelcoat(s) shouldn’t “smear” no matter how aggressive you get.
its bottom paint
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Old 06-05-2021, 10:02 PM   #35
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Rust oleum wipe new recolor was recommended as an easy fix for our boat, which has a dull finish. Sounds easy, and we will give it a try, especially on the black. This suggestion might help someone else, hopefully. Thank you, Cal Coon.
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