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#1 |
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In the past, at the beginning of each season, I would just attatch the battery charger to the Seadoo battery, add some water to the dried cells, And dissconnect when I was done, using an old fashioned charger (no settings). I am looking to upgrade to a new charger and would appreciate some suggestions on what to look for. The Seadoo battery and marine battery for the trolling motor is all I will be charging.
Also, what is the proper way to charge a battery that has been sitting all winter? Add distilled water to the cells? Leave caps off when charging?
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#2 |
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GTO- I would look at a battery tender. You can leave it on the charger through the winter and it will maintain a charge without overcharging it.
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#3 |
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GTO,
What is the reason for the upgrade? I am somewhat old fashioned and believe if it isn't broken don't try and fix it. Now of course if the old charger has gone the way of the Dodo then your have no choice. As Vita states battery tenders are nice. However don't limit yourself to just a battery tender, as they only work over the long term.... I believe the last time I was at sears I saw some units, that had Battery tending modes as well as some normal charging modes. Now I am not trying to endorse sears here, I haven't had to by a charger in many years and therefore I don't know who to recommend. My point is this however that there are many models out there do a little research and make sure that you get one that will fit your use model... you probably don't need the 50 amp starting model... but one with a battery tending feature and a 2 and 10 amp charge would be right up your ally......
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#4 |
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GTO,I agree with both above comments. You should always use distilled water when topping off you battery,if you remove it and store it in a temp controled enviroment recharging isn't always needed. Also don't leave on a concrete floor,just kills them.
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#5 |
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I was told to use only trickle charge mode when charging batteries.
Newer batteries unlike the older ones are greatly depleted when charged at a high rate or when you need to use the jump start mode. If the charger does not have an automatic mode and or trickle mode I’d look for one that does. These usually charge only when needed and at about 2 amps. Also keep in mind that many of the newer batteries only have a life expectancy of 3-4 years. I just bought 2 new batteries for my plow truck and they are already on their way out. Of course they are heavily drained when plowing with the electric plow motor, dual strobe light, plow lights, heater fan all on the power drain is excessive. |
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#6 |
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What I about charging jet ski batteries is that you have to be Hudini (sp?) to get at the posts!
Also just sitting on the mooring they seem to go south unless the machine is used regularly. Just when you want to go after a couple of weeks and the engine is being slow to start it runs out of getgo. Last year I bought a trickle charger from West. It is an automatic, won't overcharge and I think that it goes over 2 amps when needed but will not boost. The cool part is that it is hard mounted in the boat. It was made to. Now if I'm planning to run the thing I just put it on the dock or beach and run an extention cord to it's nice little 110 volt plug. Works great! And yes it is a good new battery. Now, ROBMAC: I have heard from boyhood and have witnessed that leaving a battery on a concrete floor will kill the thing. This does happen. WHY? What is in a concrete floor that causes this to happen? By the way, I winterize my batteries on a wooden rack with a monthly trickle charge. Misty Blue. |
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#7 | ||
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#8 |
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I've heard the same thing, but then I think about how the charging system in a car works and realize it's got to be a myth. An alternator can easily dump 50 amps or more into a discharged battery and there's no current limiting circuitry in a car charging system (just voltage). It'll put in whatever current the battery will take, up to the output limit of the alternator. If you park a modern car for a week and then start it in sub-zero weather, it'll draw a whole lot of current after the car starts. You can hear it in the alternator, if you know what to listen for.
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Several years ago I bought a charger at Sam's that also has a reconditioning function on it. I have not had to buy a new battery since then.
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#10 | |
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I take the batteries out of the boat and store them in the cellar. The reconditioning does work. My skidoo battery wouldn't hold a charge. Recondition it and it last all winter.
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#12 | |
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![]() Dave we have a 1930 Model A in the shop right now that has a voltage regulator.... Most of todays autos sport well over 100amp alternators that have quite complex digital regulating systems to control charging |
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#13 | |
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200 to 300 watts at 12 volts (the voltage where the alternator is at max output current, not the 14.4 volts it'll put out when not really loaded) is 16.66 to 25 amps. That's hardly a trickle... I don't know of any cars with current regulated alternators digital or not, but every car, motorcycle, and boat I have ever owned did not have any current regulation (except fusable links). They'll put out as much as their rated output if you put a load on them. They all have had analog voltage regulators though. None killed batteries in abnormally short amounts of time. |
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#16 |
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Buy a modern charger that shuts down when the battery is at full charge but comes back on when needed. I have one but the best thing I have for my fishing boat is an onboard charger that charges 2 trolling motor batteries and the cran king battery for the big motor. You can leave it plugged in all winter without damage so long as you have the proper amount of water in the battery.
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#17 |
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After putting in the distilled water, should I charge it with the caps on or off.....or does it matter?
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