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#1 |
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Having a trailer lights/Directional problem.....
Just hooked up my boat trailer for fist time this season, and have an issue, which I didn't have when I put away last Fall. My trailer Directional lights do not work, when car is irunning or stopped with ignition turned to 'accessory on'. However, all lights directional’s work when I turn on my headlights? Runnning lights all working OK also. Go figure? I checked and replaced a 20Amp fuse which controls Directional lights, but made no difference. Also, cleaned trailer wiring pigtail connector, as well as female connector on car side. FYI, SUV is a 2006 Ford Explorer. Really has me confused, but at least I do have all working, just need to keep headlights on. Anyone have any ideas what's happening here? Thanks! |
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#2 |
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Check your ground wire and ensure it is connected cleanly and properly. Use sand paper to clean connections to be sure. A loose or poorly connected ground wire is notorious for screwing up trailer lights.
It's worth a try... Dan |
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#3 |
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I see that the symptoms are a little strange. Do the brake lights work on the trailer? If so you probably don’t have a connection or ground problem but possibly a flasher relay issue. Usually the same bulb filaments are used for brake and signal on a trailer.
Also check the emergency flasher which may use a different flasher relay but the same bulb filaments on the trailer. A bad ground connection can cause some strange symptoms. If the trailer brake lights don’t work, it may be a grounding issue in the trailer wiring. |
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#4 |
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Definitely check and clean ground and plug connections. I was having issues with some functions and not others. I ended up using dielectric grease in my plug connector and all is good now.
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#5 | |
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...that you had a similar problem last year with this. What was the eventual solution then?
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#6 |
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What do you have for a connection system for the lights.....
--- if you are running a 4 wire system with a ground wire included then somewhere on the tow vehicle there is a converter boxs that makes this all work..... they die and sometimes need to be replaced. --- if you have a 5 wire system not sure what to tell you... have nevered used one.... --- last if like me you have a vehicle that has a 7 wire connection, and the converter is an adapter I use that puts me to the tradional 4 wire system. Bottom line... there usually a converter to limit the number of wires.... somewhere in the system.... and they go bad.... If you can't fix the issue via ground that is probable where the problem is. A not here on grounds..... sometime the best thing to do to check if this your problem is connect a aux. ground wire from the trailer to you vehicle chasis.......if you are having grounding issues, this well make the problem go away and then at least you know what you are dealing with......
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#7 |
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I find the easiest way to trouble shoot this issue is to open this link http://www.etrailer.com/faq_wiring.aspx Then take a multi-tester and attach the ground to the the frame of your vehicle. Starting at the tow vehicle put the positive connector in each socket and see if you get 12 volts at each pole for each function. If the tow vehicle checks out remove the lens of each tail light on the trailer and repeat using the center of the socket (remove the bulb and the center of the socket is your hot connection for the positive on the multi tester) and see if you get 12 volts at each function. This will also tell you if your ground is the issue, just make sure to use a ground point on the metal frame of the trailer to eliminate the ground wire connection.
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#8 |
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Like the others who said you have a ground issue, I agree.
If you can't track it down and are around Moultonborough at all PM me and I'll give you a hand troubleshooting it. I love auto electrical problems! |
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#9 |
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Thanks everyone for all the great feed-back.
I'll start with the basics, and check the Ground connection on both sides first. JMNE24 thanks for the great website:http://www.etrailer.com/faq_wiring.aspx to troubleshoot triailer issues, this is a wealth of infoamtion ! Will report back when I have problem resolved. |
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#10 |
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If you can't find the problem, you might find it easy to re-wire the trailer. I did that on my older snowmobile trailer. Rather than spend hours chasing the illusive electrical gremlins, I bought a new wire harness and started from scratch.
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#11 |
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Reporting back with test results....
Took JMEN24's suggestion to start test from tow vehicle, and tested each of the three sockets of the pigtail connector for 12 volts. Made sure I had good Ground for multi-meter. Got no reading at all from any socket? What does this tell me? |
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#12 |
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What were the conditions of the test?
If you had the flashers operating and the parking lights on you should get a constant 12V on one terminal and a flashing 12V on the other two relative to the ground terminal on the tow vehicle plug. If all are zip, I would start by checking if the ground on the tow vehicle plug is really grounded. |
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#13 |
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If you had your black test lead in the ground hole and no lights, scrape down to bare metal on your frame or hitch and put your black lead there. If you get the right voltages then, you know you have a ground issue into the Vehicle connector.
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#14 |
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Sort of ambarrassed to ask, and please excuse my lack of knowledge.....
But when I performed this test, I 'did not' have the engine running or ignition turned to Accessory position. Was I suppose to? Thought I would get a test meter reading, regardless of whether the engine was running or not. Thanks again. Bigdog |
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#15 | |
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It is possible that your vehicle has a separate fused circuit for the trailer lights. If you get no voltage in the above test, you might want to find out if there is a separate fuse for the trailer lights. |
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#16 | ||
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#17 |
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I'm not sure if you do have a problem. On my rig, the trailer lights don't go on unless I turn on either the parking lights or headlights.
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