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SummerIslander · 02-23-2019, 04:12 PM

Related advice (probably would not help with the bad fuel problem), I've used Rutland Tank Shield fuel oil additive with our Riello-burner oil furnace for on a forced-air system 15 years. While it's hard to verify scientifically, it seems that it did reduce soot and smell after starting to use it, and we've never had any fuel-related issues. The digitally-measured efficiency tests always come in at 87% or higher, so it must be running clean. Tank Shield is available in a lot of places, check online. The tricky part is guessing when the oil vendor is about to show up, and putting it in the tank just before they come so it mixes well when they fill. Buy a plastic measuring cup and mark the amount typically needed for a fill (usually they deliver about 3/4 of a tank, not the whole tank) and wear disposable gloves. Your oil company may offer to provide it as part of a $100/year "tank insurance" policy, but you can get it yourself for lot less if your tank is in good condition and indoors.

Since water accumulation in the tank is an issue with both tank rust-out and operation, I also put a couple of 2-inch wood blocks under the tank feet opposite from the outlet and filter, to ensure that water and sludge drains down the now-sloped tank bottom into the filter as much as possible and not build up in the bottom and cause rust. That way contaminants get regularly removed from the system each year as part of filter replacement instead of building up in the bottom of the tank and causing problems when they rise up to the outlet level.

Power venter exhausts: Total junk and starve the burner by reducing air pressure in smaller basements/furnace rooms. My original one(s) failed twice (very noisily) in 5 years from heat and rust (what engineer ever thought the device would be exposed to these in burner exhaust???) so I replaced it with a standard insulated exterior metal chimney, plus had a "fan in a can" installed to draw in outside air to feed the furnace instead of burning the expensively heated house interior air. The final step was adding a wall to enclose the furnace room so the smell did not rise up into the rest of the basement and upstairs. (Note: if you add an exterior air supply fan and/or a wall, have the furnace technician re-tune the burner as they are sensitive to air pressure changes). Those changes together solved all the livability and reliability issues, and reduced fuel consumption a bit.

So it takes some planning and effort to make living with oil heat bearable. Most builders don't have a clue about these issues or don't care, my house was built in 1995 so it's not like it was some ancient system in an old house form the coal days lie the one I grew up in.

Due to the initial issues we had, my wife wanted to pay thousands to get a natural gas line run in half a block, and because it is usually cheaper. But house explosions from gas leaks are a regular event in the news (apparently the idea of installing gas over-pressure limiting devices at the meter and on each appliance never occurred to anyone, how stupid is that?), so I'll live with oil, now that I've learned how to mitigate it's downsides.

02-23-2019, 04:12 PM	#37
SummerIslander Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts	Additive may help Related advice (probably would not help with the bad fuel problem), I've used Rutland Tank Shield fuel oil additive with our Riello-burner oil furnace for on a forced-air system 15 years. While it's hard to verify scientifically, it seems that it did reduce soot and smell after starting to use it, and we've never had any fuel-related issues. The digitally-measured efficiency tests always come in at 87% or higher, so it must be running clean. Tank Shield is available in a lot of places, check online. The tricky part is guessing when the oil vendor is about to show up, and putting it in the tank just before they come so it mixes well when they fill. Buy a plastic measuring cup and mark the amount typically needed for a fill (usually they deliver about 3/4 of a tank, not the whole tank) and wear disposable gloves. Your oil company may offer to provide it as part of a $100/year "tank insurance" policy, but you can get it yourself for lot less if your tank is in good condition and indoors. Since water accumulation in the tank is an issue with both tank rust-out and operation, I also put a couple of 2-inch wood blocks under the tank feet opposite from the outlet and filter, to ensure that water and sludge drains down the now-sloped tank bottom into the filter as much as possible and not build up in the bottom and cause rust. That way contaminants get regularly removed from the system each year as part of filter replacement instead of building up in the bottom of the tank and causing problems when they rise up to the outlet level. Power venter exhausts: Total junk and starve the burner by reducing air pressure in smaller basements/furnace rooms. My original one(s) failed twice (very noisily) in 5 years from heat and rust (what engineer ever thought the device would be exposed to these in burner exhaust???) so I replaced it with a standard insulated exterior metal chimney, plus had a "fan in a can" installed to draw in outside air to feed the furnace instead of burning the expensively heated house interior air. The final step was adding a wall to enclose the furnace room so the smell did not rise up into the rest of the basement and upstairs. (Note: if you add an exterior air supply fan and/or a wall, have the furnace technician re-tune the burner as they are sensitive to air pressure changes). Those changes together solved all the livability and reliability issues, and reduced fuel consumption a bit. So it takes some planning and effort to make living with oil heat bearable. Most builders don't have a clue about these issues or don't care, my house was built in 1995 so it's not like it was some ancient system in an old house form the coal days lie the one I grew up in. Due to the initial issues we had, my wife wanted to pay thousands to get a natural gas line run in half a block, and because it is usually cheaper. But house explosions from gas leaks are a regular event in the news (apparently the idea of installing gas over-pressure limiting devices at the meter and on each appliance never occurred to anyone, how stupid is that?), so I'll live with oil, now that I've learned how to mitigate it's downsides.