Quote:
Originally Posted by codeman671
Air filters are easy and cheap. The size will be written on it when you pull it out, just buy a new one at Home Depot and slide it in. Just make sure you check the arrows for direction of flow. Turn off your red power switch to the furnace and swap it out. Ours is visible with no cover over the end of it, some systems may have a screw to remove a cover.
Every few months is recommended, more if you have pets. We have 4 dogs, so I have to change monthly.
|
He doesn’t have air filters. He has “radiators” (i.e. Forced Hot Water). And it wouldn’t cause the problems he sees (smells) either.
If you had a clogged air filter it would over heat the heat exchanger and shutdown. Or if you have a modern system it would tell you
(one that actually measures air flow rates). Or the blower would trip a breaker due to excessive load (if it doesn’t burn out first). It would not start stinking up the house with fumes. For hot air systems the air flow is completely isolated from combustion chamber.
Now if the system is clean and it’s a hot air system and you get fumes. You might have a heat exchanger leak. That would be bad. That only happens with forced hot air too. Also have to watch out that you’re not pulling fumes into the house from the chimney.
BTW I always ran a chimney cap. Moisture in your chimney does not function well.
I always tend to see Oil is Forced Hot Water and Propane / Natural Gas is frequently Forced Hot Air but sometimes forced Hot Water too, but not as often. I don’t think I’ve even seen oil fired Forced Hot Air but I always assumed they existed.
The “filter” Sailaway it probably recalling from his last service is probably the oil filter. If that clogs up. You are shut down. You really have to go a long time before those clog up.
The most common issue on oil burners is a bad nozzle (they get worn and gum up) and dirty/worn electrodes causes it a to have a long time to ignite. You’ll hear the blower run and a long delay before it ignites. Then the smell. You need a perfect spray pattern and clean perfectly spaced electrodes for it to ignite instantly. Clogged flu is way less common. Nozzle and electrodes is almost always first. If it’s a bad installation with sat long horizontal exhaust pipes then clogged flu is more plausible. Partial blocked flu will cut efficiency.
If it takes to long to ignite the burner safety will eventually trip. If it’s been running like this I would not hit the reset button on the burner. It usually means there is lots of oil in the chamber if it trips. Unless you are in risk of freezing to death
If you do, prepare for a boom if it ignites
The time between it getting slow to ignite and smelly and tripping burner safety is usually VERY long. Typically months. It’s crying for help though. Most oil companies will come out with in 24 hrs if you have no heat in this weather. It’s a very common first sign of needing service. It also tends to start during a cold spell.
After it gets serviced. Listen to it carefully start. Know your system. Hear the blower start and the roar of the flame. When you hear the flame roar like 5 seconds after the blower, it’s not running optimal. It should be nearly instant. BTW I’ve seen “Professionals” totally botch a service job. I trust none with my families safety. Not electricians, plumbers or auto mechanics. I do hire them when absolutely required. But I watch them like a hawk when I do. It’s not their house and family, it’s yours. Most are very willing to educate you. And I never hesitate to ask questions.
Hmmm, those mini splits are looking more attractive aren’t they.