Winnipesaukee Forum - View Single Post

brk-lnt · 09-03-2019, 08:27 AM

75% of the value in a used boat is going to be the engine (give or take). Engine hours, brand, service history can make the difference between a boat that is fun and hassle-free, and one that is a money pit of frustration.

Hull construction method is probably the next most important thing, however I think it is of less concern for a lake boat that is only used a few months per year, as long as it has been properly stored and maintained overall. You ideally want to avoid foam and wood in the hull (boats 20 feet and under are required to have positive buoyancy, and thus will almost always have lots of foam).

For most brands you can find brochures online for the model year that outline construction techniques.

Boat manufacturers fabricate the hull, liner, and cap, but almost everything else comes from some other supplier. The difference between a lower-end brand and a higher-end one will be the level of quality they use for these 3rd party components, and how they are assembled.

You can get into construction techniques over things like fiberglass laminate schedules, and the use of CSM/"chop guns" vs. heavy weight woven biaxial fiberglass, but for the average conditions on Winnipesaukee, this is more academic than a major deciding factor (IMO).

Things I would look for when buying a lake boat:

1) Motor brand/HP - You mentioned I/O, so a Mercruiser setup with an Alpha One or Bravo drive would probably be my first choice. In regards to HP, you can never have too much, and the default engine package is almost always anemic. In many cases you will find that higher HP engines use the same fuel, or sometimes even less, than a lower HP version on the same boat.

2) Dry weight - all other things being equal, a heavier boat will ride better than a lighter one. If you plan to tow the boat, this can be a factor to consider.

3) Hull deadrise. Steeper deadrise will ride better in a chop, but be more "rolly" when anchored at a sandbar. For the most part, I never found this to be a major issue on smaller boats, so I'd look for the steepest deadrise possible.

4) Fittings and finish - metal through-hulls vs. plastic, higher quality vinyl seats, stainless rails for a bimini, etc., will tend to be signs of a better-built boat.

5) Brand - I'd mostly be concerned with the brand still being active and in business - makes it somewhat easier to find spare parts, and tend to help resale value vs. a brand that is no longer around (IME).

5a) If you're concerned with appearances, then brands like Cobalt, Formula, and Chris-Craft will have a higher level of perception than SeaRay, FourWinns, Bayliner, etc., though in the end they are all non-custom production boats.

No matter what you decide on, hire a good marine surveyor to go over the boat.

09-03-2019, 08:27 AM	#12
brk-lnt Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: South Down Shores Posts: 1,938 Thanks: 533 Thanked 568 Times in 334 Posts	75% of the value in a used boat is going to be the engine (give or take). Engine hours, brand, service history can make the difference between a boat that is fun and hassle-free, and one that is a money pit of frustration. Hull construction method is probably the next most important thing, however I think it is of less concern for a lake boat that is only used a few months per year, as long as it has been properly stored and maintained overall. You ideally want to avoid foam and wood in the hull (boats 20 feet and under are required to have positive buoyancy, and thus will almost always have lots of foam). For most brands you can find brochures online for the model year that outline construction techniques. Boat manufacturers fabricate the hull, liner, and cap, but almost everything else comes from some other supplier. The difference between a lower-end brand and a higher-end one will be the level of quality they use for these 3rd party components, and how they are assembled. You can get into construction techniques over things like fiberglass laminate schedules, and the use of CSM/"chop guns" vs. heavy weight woven biaxial fiberglass, but for the average conditions on Winnipesaukee, this is more academic than a major deciding factor (IMO). Things I would look for when buying a lake boat: 1) Motor brand/HP - You mentioned I/O, so a Mercruiser setup with an Alpha One or Bravo drive would probably be my first choice. In regards to HP, you can never have too much, and the default engine package is almost always anemic. In many cases you will find that higher HP engines use the same fuel, or sometimes even less, than a lower HP version on the same boat. 2) Dry weight - all other things being equal, a heavier boat will ride better than a lighter one. If you plan to tow the boat, this can be a factor to consider. 3) Hull deadrise. Steeper deadrise will ride better in a chop, but be more "rolly" when anchored at a sandbar. For the most part, I never found this to be a major issue on smaller boats, so I'd look for the steepest deadrise possible. 4) Fittings and finish - metal through-hulls vs. plastic, higher quality vinyl seats, stainless rails for a bimini, etc., will tend to be signs of a better-built boat. 5) Brand - I'd mostly be concerned with the brand still being active and in business - makes it somewhat easier to find spare parts, and tend to help resale value vs. a brand that is no longer around (IME). 5a) If you're concerned with appearances, then brands like Cobalt, Formula, and Chris-Craft will have a higher level of perception than SeaRay, FourWinns, Bayliner, etc., though in the end they are all non-custom production boats. No matter what you decide on, hire a good marine surveyor to go over the boat. __________________ [insert witty phrase here]

The Following User Says Thank You to brk-lnt For This Useful Post: