Quote:
Originally Posted by jmen24
Couple of things that you are not taking into consideration!
Use of full width standing seam panels will leave you with a gable detail that cannot be flashed properly. Those last bends serve a purpose. If you were interested in maximizing material, than plan for just under 7/8 worth of a full panel to finish; that will allow you to balance the spacing and use just less than 1/2 a panel at each gable, while maintaining the proper installation techniques.
Note the location of plumbing chases and cleanouts, but leave an exposed panel, not for me. Who wants to look at some half done panel screwed to the wall in the hallway. If your home is using wood for an interior wall covering, you can integrate an access panel in the installation and is more necessary, but sheetrock, no way. Planning on repairing plumbing means that you should have picked a better plumber! Granted, things happen, fittings fail, I have just never understood the mentality of having access panels all over the place. Cut the rock, repair the plumbing and patch it back to original.
The cost jump for using engineered studs for a cabinet wall will not cure your scribe problem. Cabinets need to be scribed to sheetrocked walls, because of the build up of mud at seams and corners. Using the straightest studs in the world will not prevent this, plus not scribing any form of millwork is just sloppy workmanship and it shows.
The cutting off of the end of a piece of lumber removes the checks that are caused during the drying process. Material today is grown so fast and processed so fast that it is really a wonder it holds its shape at all. You are not doing yourself any favors by not removing a minimum of 6" off each end of a large structural member. Studs are one thing, small member, vertical load. Joists and rafters are another animal all together. Having a deep check in the end of a floor joist is akin to cutting the bottom 3" out of a 2x10 to clear plumbing, you have just reduced the size of that entire member by 3", but left the additional weight that a now smaller member needs to carry; further compromising its integrity.
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I never meant design the roof so that it's a multiple of the width of the panels, I meant what I said, design the roof for full width panels. Doing so does not preclude flashing. If memory serves, my roof was (n x 16") + 2 1/8" to fit the panels and flashing without any hassle.
Plumbing chase access panels can be placed behind appliances and other places where no one would would notice. They don't have to be visible to be functional. That's how mine are.
The end of a floor joist is under almost no stress that would be affected by a check. It's only in compression and shares the load with a rim joist precisely where it;s needed most. It's the center of a joist span that's critical. Rafters are irrelevant in this regard because they have to be trimmed on both ends anyway. I still would recommend engineered lumber regardless, especially for an island camp. The light weight is a great advantage when moving it to the building lot.
A straight and plumb wall is vastly easier to scribe to than a wavy mess. I never said the cabinets would not have to be scribed, but I was not very clear about it either...