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Originally Posted by Dave R
The structural SIPS are what I was recommending. They come pre-cut and ready to assemble with door and window openings already present. They would be light and easy to transport and assembly would go remarkably quickly.
If one was careful and clever in the design process, one could dramatically simplify and reduce costs for construction. Examples: Choose roof dimensions that allow you to use full-width standing seam roof panels. Ripping the last panel and bending the edge of it 90 degrees is a pain, and if symmetry is important to you, you'd need to do it on both gable ends of the house. The length of said panels is irrelevant as they can be ordered any length you choose up to 40 feet, if memory serves... Design the house such that all or at least the vast majority of the plumbing is located in one interior wall. Design the wall with opening panels so that plumbing repairs or changes can be done with ease. Choose house/room dimensions that take advantage of standard lumber lengths. Why make a house that forces you to waste 18" of every joist? That said, engineered joists would be a great choice (nice and light so easy to transport) and you can get those in any length you choose... Use engineered lumber (LVL/LSL) studs on any wall that is going to have cabinetry and be extra careful to install said joists plumb. Scribing cabinets is time consuming and tedious. The slight cost disadvantage of the perfectly straight studs will easily pay for itself when hanging cabinets.
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Couple of things that you are not taking into consideration!
Use of full width standing seam panels will leave you with a gable detail that cannot be flashed properly. Those last bends serve a purpose. If you were interested in maximizing material, than plan for just under 7/8 worth of a full panel to finish; that will allow you to balance the spacing and use just less than 1/2 a panel at each gable, while maintaining the proper installation techniques.
Note the location of plumbing chases and cleanouts, but leave an exposed panel, not for me. Who wants to look at some half done panel screwed to the wall in the hallway. If your home is using wood for an interior wall covering, you can integrate an access panel in the installation and is more necessary, but sheetrock, no way. Planning on repairing plumbing means that you should have picked a better plumber! Granted, things happen, fittings fail, I have just never understood the mentality of having access panels all over the place. Cut the rock, repair the plumbing and patch it back to original.
The cost jump for using engineered studs for a cabinet wall will not cure your scribe problem. Cabinets need to be scribed to sheetrocked walls, because of the build up of mud at seams and corners. Using the straightest studs in the world will not prevent this, plus not scribing any form of millwork is just sloppy workmanship and it shows.
The cutting off of the end of a piece of lumber removes the checks that are caused during the drying process. Material today is grown so fast and processed so fast that it is really a wonder it holds its shape at all. You are not doing yourself any favors by not removing a minimum of 6" off each end of a large structural member. Studs are one thing, small member, vertical load. Joists and rafters are another animal all together. Having a deep check in the end of a floor joist is akin to cutting the bottom 3" out of a 2x10 to clear plumbing, you have just reduced the size of that entire member by 3", but left the additional weight that a now smaller member needs to carry; further compromising its integrity.