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Old 07-25-2016, 06:43 PM   #20
NoBozo
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Portsmouth. RI
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Default Anchoring Is An Art

I have been anchoring since 1968...in Tidewater. I always had a deep keel sailboat. Hull shape matters: Windage (superstructure)..and keel below the waterline. If you have a deep keel, while swinging on the anchor, you will be less likely to "Sail" around the anchor. If you have a lot of superstructure and not much underwater..you will Sail Around the anchor with the wind.

The last was a C&C 32. I had three anchors aboard the C&C. A Real Danforth 22S. That's a 22# "Standard". Stamped Steel. A real Danforth 12H, Thats a 12# Hi-Tensile. A "Hi-Tensile" is a Forging ..look up "forging". The High Tensile is VERY Sharp and WILL Bite. I also had a 25# CQR Plow.

Anchoring is an acquired skill. Just throwing the anchor over the side with a ball of line probably isn't going to work. No matter what anchor you have...Lower it over the bow and pay out the rode gently backing down.

Scope: If you need to anchor in a tight space...use more chain. For a 20' boat in three feet of water..I recommend 6 feet of chain on 3/8 twisted nylon.

Everyone... I have observed on the lake uses anchor line AND Docklines that is WAY TOO Big. Heavy line gives NO Stretch. Lighter line gives you better stretch.

If you have a TOO Big diameter anchor rode, there will be no stretch (Vs the weight of your boat.) and a passing wave will JERK your anchor out of the bottom. Food for thought. NB
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