I could write a book on is subject…
I’ve been doing commercial diving for 25 years. As part of my job is to service 50 moorings per year (37 here on the lake), do underwater investigations for insurance clams and consult on proper mooring techniques. Each mooring locals differ wildly from one to another, for the sake of keeping this brief, I’ll only comment about the Lake’s particularizes.
Lake conditions:
1) High acid concentration (tannic acid and acid rain) on the bottom of the lake due to little or no sub-currant.
2) Hard bottom (rocks, gravel, sand and clay) cover by silt.
3) Seasonal water level fluctuations (2ft. or more).
4) Seasonal idle time (chain laying on the bottom during the winter)
What works best for the Lake:
• Wide flat granite blocks with two holes drill through it (500 lbs. minimum)
• Stainless steel (8’ to 12’) looped through the holes.
• S/S swivel with S/S shackle to the nylon rode with S/S thimble (braided in and whipped).
• The rode length 1.5 times the depth with eye splice in the end of rode with proper length & size mooring bridle.
• Moring ball that is state approved with appropriate sized & length pennant with eye spliced to the rode and service shackle on ball side.
This method is by far the most expensive, but it stands the test of time. I guess you could say, “pay me now or pay me later…” How much is you boat worth??? Here’s another one for you; “Isn’t it funny how, temporary always turns to permanent.” We can go into great detail on each point made here if you like.
No, I’m not looking to do this job… I’ve got enough to do as it is, I’m just offering advice from an expert point of view.
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