Quote:
Originally Posted by VitaBene
I understand your point competely and believe you are right. Frankly, I am not sure what is right (I am on HCS and am sloooowly figuring it out) and luckily all of my new to me sleds have been already done. Done, but all somewhat differently.
For general purpose, originating for the lakes region (snow Gods willing) snowmobiling, what would you recommend for studding? I just picked up a new (to me) sled that was just studded 96 up the middle.
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For trail riding, especially around the Lakes Region, 96 studs has become the happy medium for almost all sleds. I run 96 on my 600ho. I also have a clutch kit and C&A pro skis so I'm borderline pushing it right now. I plan to gear down 1 tooth on top gear soon and when I do that I'm going to need to change my track and run some more studs. I'll probably end up running 144 for the added traction. There is a reason why (and many people don't know) a sled should run a certain amount of studs.
For example, with my clutch kit, if I geared down and didn't change my track or studs, it would be pointless and overkill. The point of gearing down on top gear is to be faster off the line and generate the power to the track. Likewise, this is very similar with a clutch kit. Clutch kit will make you engage at a higher RPM. So, by combining these two modifications the power would be going to my track, but it would be too much power and not enough tractiong given my 1" lugs and 96 studs. Therefore, I would step up to at least a 1.25" track (probably Rip Saw) and 144 studs.
This is one of few examples of why people run the studs they run. If you have any specific questions feel free to shoot them to me. I don't know everything, but I know a lot and I can tell you where to find answers if I don't know. Just let me know what sled it is, where you ride, and what kind of riding you are looking to be setup for.