Aqua-Therm questions
 

This is my first year using an aqua-therm around my dock and I have a couple of questions that I'm sure lots forum members have opinions on.

I have a 1/2 HP de-icer strung between two docks that form a U. It hangs about 4' down in about 6' of water. I also purchased a time and temperature controller. I currently have the temp gauge set to 30 degrees.

My questions are:

1) Is that temp setting OK or should it be higher/lower?
2) How long and how often I should I have it run when it drops below the set temperature?
3) Where can I buy the official Danger, Thin Ice sign?

Thanks in advance.

I'm not sure about questions 1 & 2 but a quick google of "thin ice signs" brings up lots of options. Good luck

1- I would think that 30 degrees is a good temp to set it at. If the temp rises above 30 degrees it won't run and below 30 it will. Personally I don't bother with temp controls. All the aquatherms I deal with are run strictly by a time clock.
2- At least twice per day. I set the ones I deal with for 2 four hours cycles. I don't see why 3 or 4 two hour cycles wouldn't work as well. I set them for a 4 hour cycle to run from 1am to 5am and then again at 1pm to 5pm.
3- the "Danger Thin Ice" sign can be purchased at most hardware stores. I think I paid $40+ for one last year. They are typically plastic and will get fairly brittle in the cold. Be sure to back it up with a piece of plywood for support.
I am sure others will chime in with variations on temps and clock settings but the above is just the way I am used to doing it.

I did that before I posted but I didn't find one that met the NH rules.

I think Heath's hardware sells the signs as do probably most of the hardware stores around the lake. Temperature is not a bad way to run it although will probably run too much at the beginning of winter and not enough near the end when 32 will bring pretty rapid freezing especially at night. I find that pretty much below 15 to 20 degrees daytime temps that I need to run it all day. Obviously you don't need to run until ice in.

Stupid question:
Does the water have to be circulating to "prevent" the ice from forming or does the process of moving warmer water under the ice melt it?

Less Stupid question:
How do you deal with GFI breaker tripping on such a mission critical process?

I believe it is actually the combination of both, the fact that the water is a bit warmer and that it's moving (agitation) that does the job the most efficiently.

Personally, I would not use a GFI protected circut or outlet for that very reason and I don't care what the safety police think. The breaker you might be ok with but the outlets are just to sensitive and are prone to failure.

We got our sign at Watermark.