The Dealership in Laconia
 

The new car dealership in Laconia.

I have my car serviced at the repair place at the airport. I keep my older car up to date and in excellent condition. In fact when I get oil changes I ask mechanic to check brakes, suspension, and such while car is on lift. I stay ahead of any upcoming potential issues.

I had the suspension "links" - there is a technical term for item - replaced on both sides of front previous to visit to new car dealer service department.

The new car dealership in Laconia sent me a "special" price for an oil change and 21 point inspection. For $19.95 or whatever.

When done - the estimate for "repairs" was over $500.00. This was the free "21 point inspection". The new car dealer in Laconia wanted to replace a whole bunch of items in the suspension. And some that were recently replaced with quality new parts.

After this I went back to shop at/near airport and had each part checked again. No issues found. Nothing.

My editorial. I find this quite disturbing for those who rely on the dealership for service. Usually women but many men too - potentially getting taken for a monetary ride with repairs at the new car dealership.

Is it he said she said? Not for the "links" that had just been replaced. Replacing parts that were virtually new. And I had viewed those parts come out of the box and placed onto my vehicle.

What do you think? A one time gaff or a consistent replacement of parts that do not need to be replaced? Was it because my car was older and that sometime in the "future" these parts may need to be replaced?

What is the name of the new dealership?


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Second Opinion
 

It is great to have a reliable 'indie' to fall back on. Not all dealership are bad and not all 'indies' are good. So you have to rely on other people opinions on the service they provide.

You need to do your homework. Usually you can find YouTube videos on what need to be done and what to look for when a technician says you need something done.

I usually get a written statement of work and price before they begin to service the vehicle. I specifically tell the shop to get my permission if they need to charge me more. I have control of the cost.

The question is, "is it a dishonest mechanic or is that representitive of the dealerdhip in general"? As an auto repair shop owner I see this all the time. There are honest repair shops and dishonest ones. When you find an honest one , stick with him. Stay far away from the dishonest ones.

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Not sure why you hesitate to say the name especially if it’s something we should be aware of. I am going to be in the market for a car for my daughter so the information would be helpful. New or used car dealer?


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Ever notice when waiting for service in the waiting room at your dealership that the service tech comes out frequently to tell a customer that they found a problem while doing service and do they want to take care of it.Usually it's a battery,tires ,brakes or maybe a coolant flush or some mysterious part that's worn.
Dealerships encourage their service people to upsell and are paid commissions for extra (some times unneeded) service

Back in the early - mid 1960's, I worked at a gas station / repair garage. One of the first things I was taught working the gas pumps or doing oil changes was "TBA". I was going to Bentley College of Accounting & Finance and the owners explained what margin was all about in retail. TBA is Tires, Batteries, Accessories; this is where money was made. We didn't sell something that didn't need replacing, but would check for dirty air fillers, check wiper blades, look at tires (putting a penny in the tread to see if the tread reached the top of the head of Lincoln), etc.. Soft sell, but it did reap benefits when the customer would have it replaced then or at the next maintenance appointment.
Providing a service is one thing, ripping off a customer by suggesting a totally unwarranted repair is something else. For what it's worth, we stopped dealing with one dealership in town for some of what Professor says: saying brakes would not pass inspection when they had been replaced about 6 months earlier, advertising oil lube filter for one price, say $40, and then charging close to $10 more.

Pay attention to their recommendations, ask to see the items in question before repair, and take the old items.

Dave

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Ya know the Walmarts in Tilton and Plymouth do oil and filter changes, up to five quarts, for just 19.88, and they inflate the tires, and reset the warning light back to no warnings if your car is indicating it needs an oil change, or low tire pressure, or something.

Plus, Walmart sells excellent oil for 2.44/qt: 5w-20, 10w-30 and other stuff ...... three cheers for Wally-World!

It keeps my dark brown 1998 Ford Contour with 5-speed shift and 319,056-miles just going, and going, and going!

What, me worry ......so, what's not to like?:eek:

Thanks to the big run-up in the stock market and the recent GOP tax cuts bill, my next car will be a metallic blue Porsche Cayenne suv w/ 6-speed manual, and YES, it will be going to the $19.88 Walmart oil change in Plymouth!

It's one thing to note things that you see that could be a problem in the future but to sell a part just because you need the work is dishonest but I see it all the time.
Then there is the other side where you are so busy and you just fix what is asked to be fixed and really don't have the time to check the car for other problems. Something breaks on the car or the car doesn't start a few weeks later and the customer says, "well I just had it in for service", even if that service was just an oil change. In this business everyone wants it fixed ASAP and sometimes there just isn't enough hours in the day.
We aren't perfect and make mistakes like everyone else but being dishonest is not a mistake.

Do you really want a kid changing your oil & filter that was probably serving burgers and fries at his previous job, and not doing that very well? Well I guess you do but because of the car you drive but I wouldn't.

Hey there Biggd, you left out the last sentence from my quote all about my new blue Porsche ...... maybe you want to return to the seventh grade ....and redo 'puter class, or something!

If a any repair shop replaces something that really doesn’t need replacing that is a dishonest shop.

But...

At least you are getting what you paid for. They are not really stealing from you. Consider it to be “proactive” maintenance.

Anne Landers said it well:

“Nobody can take advantage of you without your permission.”

If something doesn’t feel right, get a second opinion as the OP here did.

Buyer beware!

On a side note about independent repair shops:

Wifey’s BMW X-3 started leaking oil so I took it to the dealer in western MA. They told me that it was not covered under my extended warranty. Their price was $1,100! That was enough to send me to a local small shop which a friend recommended. That shop got the job done for $225. The BMW dealer would have done better to quote me $600. I would not have gone looking for a better price if they had.

Anyone remember this? http://www.nytimes.com/1992/06/23/bu...fter-flap.html

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You stick to your expertise which is being a cheap xxxxxxx and I will stick to mine which is a auto mechanic with over 45 years of experience.

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If I replaced parts on all my customers cars that were not needed I'd be rich but dishonest. I agree though, that it's even worse if you are charged for a service that was never done.
I have one bad review because I changed the oil on a girls car and a few weeks later her oil change light came on because I forgot to reset it. She gave me a bad review because a friend of hers checked the oil and said it was dirty and I never changed it. She never called me to complain she just took her friends word for it.

Correct.

I left all names out. Let each reach their own conclusions.

Was it the sway bar links?

Could have been sway bar links. Not sure of correct name.

Each "link" did have a very small ball joint in them. The factory ones could not be greased. The replacement ones could be greased.

Sounds like sway bar links. They probably put the zerk grease fittings in so they could add grease later on.
Sway bar links will break if you hit a large pot hole, you will hear a loud bang when this happens.
Don't over grease them or you could break the seal/boot that covers the ball joint.

If you are not going to divulge the dealership then why bother posting at all. I think it can be misleading.

If this was the case for all postings then the Restaurant section of the forum would be non existent

In the market for a used car...
 

To keep at the lake. I am now in fear of going to either of the two dealerships in Laconia. By not naming the subject dealership of this thread, you have caused a lost sale for the other. I noticed both have low Yelp reviews, however.

Any recommendations of where to go for a used car and be treated honestly?

I absolutely agree. Why post if your not giving the full story and complete information. Otherwise the post is useless to the members

Honest Mechanic
 

The only one I found so far in the area is Neal's Garage on South Main St in Laconia. Next honest garage is in Manchester, which is a dealer believe it or not.

I totally agree...Don't bother posting if your going to keep the name a big "secret." Yeah I get there isn't ten different dealerships it can possibly be but that shouldn't matter.

Thanks!
 

I will be happy to name the dealership if asked. I just don't want people to think I work for the dealer!

That would be nice since "The Professor" does seem to want to name them.

I think BroadHopper is talking about the dealer in Manchester.

This is what he said: "Next honest garage is in Manchester, which is a dealer believe it or not.".

phil at union ave automotive runs a great, honest shop. honest work at a fair price. been a customer of his for almost 20 years.

Probably not a one off, More likely standard operating procedure. I've seen it over and again. Recently Ira Toyota did it to my 75 year old mother, She brought her 2.5 year old Rav 4 in to get a price on tires, I don't know why, she knows better. they came back with over $1,200 in repairs on top of the tires.Thankfully she called me and we had our place go over everything, Turns out she needed tires. After all these years car dealers are still the worst of the worst. I don't mean to just pick on Ira, it's happened to other family members at Quirk, Auto fair et al.

Car dealerships
 

My wife had an 8am appointment today for the "free" oil change offered for buying her car there. After waiting 1 1/2 hrs., they finally took her car into the shop- then the tallying began: air filter, brakes, wipers, etc. Aside from all the add-ons, don't you think she would have been toward the head of the scheduled line, and not have to wait so long?

Just the way they do business, I guess.

When you make an appointment at a dealer that appointment is just for you to bring it there. They will get to it when they get to it. :(

Dealer service
 

I have for as long as I can remember had my cars serviced at the dealer. Great service and they always go the extra mile, advising of needed repairs and also of anything that could be necessary in the future. They are also rated as the best dealership in the country. Having said that, when in California with the Jag several years ago, the tail lights went out in PA. So no driving in the dark. The Jag dealer supposedly repaired by replacing the third brake light and the problem was not solved. I had told them I could hear a sound in the steering column. Yup there was a break so they wanted toe solder, asked about a new part. Only cost about $20 more for the part than solder. Fast forward, in CA now and needed oil change, not a Jag but MB. Service was great. My dealer at home can tell of owners stories from their Florida experiences. All this because I had my fill of stations that put filings on the frame and saying the alternator was shot along with other problems.
If you find a good shop, new, used or repair shop. Stay with them.

Given your many years of service in the automotive industry, I can appreciate your defense of the dealership. My only point was, and is, if they make an appointment, and schedule X amount of time to complete the work, how is it, that by 8am, they are already bumping others by 1 1/2 hours?

I'm not defending them. I've never worked in a dealership but this is what freinds of mine that work there have told me.

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When a car has an appoinment at my shop we get it in right away if they are waiting.

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My apology. I took your post as a response to my original point about the 1 1/2 hours delay at 8am.

Yes, that's why, as mentioned earlier in this thread, I have a good "indie" for my vehicle-I'm in and out, for my oil change, fluid checks, etc,) in about 30 minutes.

Most negative repair shop/ dealership stories come with missing information.
There is plenty I could speculate on in the op. Miscommunication being likely for starters. There is a perception that the dealer is crooked. Many believe that before they walk in the door, as evidenced right in this thread.
Commonly, dealers look the car over and independents do not. Thats prevention/vs/ waiting for failure.

Here's a good example of one of those who decided not to look car over on a safety inspection.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.bur...m/amp/31466163

That's different than just looking the car over when it comes in for an oil change. When you go in for an inspection sticker that's what you are paying for, a safety inspection.

Of course independents look the car over. That's how you get repeat business. The problem is that many dealers and large repair facilities exaggerate problems that really don't exist just to keep the shop busy.

Where we take my wife’s Audi ( independent ) we get a full report with pictures on the car. It says what’s critical and what can wait. They give estimates on both so I know what’s coming down the line. I trust them because they have earned that trust but I think they try very hard to show you what and why needs to be fixed.


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Toyota Dealership in San Fran...
 

Brought my truck in for an oil change and was told the "throttle barrel" needed to be cleaned for $135 because of the varnish buildup. So I paid it and drove off.

Next oil change the dealership informed that the "throttle barrel" was varnished and needed to be cleaned. I asked them how often this should be done. They said about every 20-30,000. I told them to look in their own records and notice that they "supposedly" cleaned it less than 5,000 ago.

They couldn't explain it, but cleaned it for "free" this time. Everyone got involved including the manager, in explaining to me how this could happen...I have no idea what any of them said. I still go there because it's convenient. But, now, any suggested work beyond the oil change, is getting another opinion and should I discover any attempt to take advantage, will be getting a swift and unpleasant response.

It's a throttle body and it takes all of 5 minutes to clean, just so you know next time.

Within the "throttle body" there is a throttle barrel valve, this is what they probably told him that had to be cleaned.

It's all one in the same. You open the throttle and clean the inside with throttle body cleaner and a rag. If you have electric throttle then you need someone inside stepping on the gas pedal with the key on. I have done this hundreds of times. It's not rocket science and it's takes 5 minutes. I guess I'm going to have to start charging more. When we do a tune up this service is included.

To clean a "throttle barrel" (throttle body) that hasn't been cleaned for a long period of time it would probably take an hour or more. The reason is because to do it properly the throttle body needs to be taken off and cleaned thoroughly. Just getting to the throttle body takes time because of everything you have to remove to get to it.
Therefore the $135 you paid the first time was not unreasonable.
Why they had to clean it again after only 5,000 miles is questionable.

I can guarantee they didn't take it off. If they did the bill would be a lot higher.

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Just the fact that they tried to get this guy again within 5000 miles tells me that they try to get everyone for this service every time they come in. It's a quick money maker and they aren't spending an hour doing it, 5min job, 10min if you're not experienced at it.

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Just went to Irwin in Laconia today for some basic maintenance. Did a great job as always. Checked everything else out - pointed out the status of a few things needing attention in the next year but no unnecessary upsetting. Frankly, have never had them do any unnecessary upselling and when they recommend something, we talk and if it makes sense, we do it. If not, I wait. Not sure what the big deal is, must be a slow winter for people on here.

Throttle body...
 

When I brought my truck in for the oil change the second time, they told me it needed cleaning. They showed me the varnish buildup. That's when I reminded them they had just done this and charged me $135 and I assume it wasn't done the first time but I was charged for it. The manager looked sheepish like he had just been sheered.

Total mileage on the truck is 112,000. I've never had a throttle body cleaned on any vehicle I've ever owned. I have a Lexus with 170,000. I have the dealership work on it and no one has ever mentioned a throttle body. Didn't even know what it was until the incident with the truck.

Congratulations, you found a good one. The overwhelmingly negative reputation of being honesty challenged of both new and used car dealers must be a myth. Luckily there are plenty of independent mechanics that make going to a dealer for repairs obsolete.

I review Chrysler dealers as a hobby. It doesn't pay much beyond the free oil change I get plus a few bucks.

I've been to most dealers in the North Shore, So NH area.

A couple years ago, we were going on a trip for 3 weeks and it was a perfect time for my mechanic (of 29 years) to do a whole bunch of preventative maintenance items on the car. He went through EVERYTHING. Tune, belts, fluids, you name it.

He knows that I do the oil change thing so he left that alone.

The week after I get back, I go to a dealer just off RT95 in Danvers.

Oil change is done and the 21pt inspections says I need a complete tune-up!

I told the guy that I just had that done less than 500 miles ago.

He gave me the blank stare, took my credit card and sent me on my way.

:rolleye1:

When the car was still new, I had it in to the dealer in Stratham. The service guy comes into the waiting area as they are working on it and says, "It's been 3000 miles since your last oil change? Should we take care of that?"

I told him that the service manual recommends 5000 mi oil change intervals.

There was a slight hesitation before he said...."So is that a no?"

Most Chryslers probably do need a complete tune-up every 500 miles..unlike a Ford that never needs one.

190K on it and nothing beyond preventative maintenance.

The Ford thing is interesting. That 3 week trip was to Poland. I got some sort of Toyota that shut down at every light and restarted when you hit the gas.

I was asked if it took a little getting used to.

Party, I answered. Having driven a Ford in the past, I was used to the stalling at lights. It was the start-up afterward that was new to me.

:laugh:

After years or 'trial and error' I finally found a way to keep my Toyota from shutting down/restarting.

When you approach a light, turn on the heat and A/C at the same time. Make sure your high beam and low beam are both on simultaneously, put on the LEFT turn signal and hazard lights. Crank up the stereo to 100 with anything but country music and finally put on the front and back wipers and continuously spritz them with washer fluid. This should solve your problem.

I had to do all those also, however I had to blast the horn for exactly 1 minute and 2 seconds before I approached the light. Works everytime.
Doing all this is a lot cheaper than taking it to a dealer to get it fixed.

:laugh::laugh:

Sometimes it's amusing on here.

That's because your Lexus doesn't have a throttle body EFI system, instead it as multipoint. Depending on the age and model it may be using Direct Injection.

These systems require less maintenance in fact arguably none unless an injector goes bad. This assumes you are using good quality gas.

Even if you have multiport injection you still have a throttle body. The throttle body controls the amount of air being let into the intake to mix with the fuel. They do get dirty but if you're getting it clean more than every 30,000 miles you're probably getting ripped off unless you travel a lot of dirt roads.

Yeah true but that is a completely different setup than throttle body EFI. If proper care is taken to ensure that the PCV system and air filter are kept clean and in good working order that throttle plate and surrounding area should never ever get any significant buildup in them. I've shot mine occasionally if I happen to have it opened up and exposed but rarely if ever have I found mine to be so dirty that it was something I would purposely do on a regular basis. In fact it's not even on any maintenance schedule for any Toyota/Lexus I have ever owned or worked on (and I used to be a technician). Not to say that they can't get dirty or that can cause problems, just rather rare that they do. In fact the only thing I have ever seen cause any problems at all was a dirty MAF sensor which is well before the throttle body and can kick on the MIL/CEL idiot light in the dash.

A lot of these "services" that are sold these days are a total rip off to unaware consumers that sadly don't really know any better.

Some older fords had throttle body EFI and we use to have to clean them quite often because when they got dirty the car would stall at idle. All throttle bodies will get dirty eventually. I've been doing this for 45 years and I've seen it all.

What's the first thing you'd check on a 2012 Ford Escape when the idle drops coming to a stop?!

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The first thing I would do is check the computer for codes or pending codes. If there where no codes I would check the air filter, clean the throttle plate, and put a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner in the tank. There is special throttle plate cleaner and if you have an electronic throttle, no cable, don't force the plate open. Have someone sit inside, turn the key on, don't start the car, and step on the gas pedal. That will open the throttle safely so it can be cleaned.
That's what I would do first.
If there are codes or pending codes then you have to diagnose those first.

On it! Thanks, friend.

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If that doesn't work and there are no codes then the next step would be to have the fuel pressure checked. I don't know how many miles on your car but most electric fuel pumps start to weaken after 100,000 miles.

It's got 85k miles and is the most polarizing vehicle I've ever owned--on the one hand, it's comfortable, quiet, and fairly efficient (~22mpg with the 3.0 V6). On the other hand, the rear wheel wells and gate lip are rusting, I've had to replace parts (control arms, rear links, etc.) long before I would have expected (60k), and it appears the only way to keep tires from cupping is to rotate them every 37 miles.

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It is what it is, Fords version of the "economy SUV". They are made for pumping out in volume and after 100,000 miles they are fixer uppers.

Here is an interesting article about throttle issues with the Ford Escape:
https://www.torquenews.com/106/2005-...hrottle-issues

Interesting. I've only noticed a dip in idle when stopping quickly, but I also haven't changed the air filter recently, nor have I done much with additives, etc.

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Suggestion:

Read the post about oil undercoating on this forum.

Oil undercoating discussed here:

https://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums...ad.php?t=18457

Was this vehicle ever in any accident?

Was there a vehicle alignment anywhere in this story?

No. The 37 mile thing was hyperbole, but they need to be rotated 3500 or less, which is lower than I'm used to.

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But the Corinthian Leather?
 

:eek2: Chrysler may cease to be a brand after Friday:

Fiat may pull out of the US—and China.

.