Car mechanics in Meredith area...
 

I apologize for starting such an incredibly boring thread, but I could use some help as I haven't been in the area that long. I'm looking for recommendations for car meachanics in the Meredith area. I need a diagnostic check run on my Silverado (check engine light is on) and whatever the situation is remedied. I know there's a dealership in Laconia, but wondered if there was a recommended mechanic in the Meredith area whose prices may be a bit more reasonable. Thanks!

VIP-Laconia
 

You might try VIP Automotive, on Union Ave in Laconia, across the street from Midas Muffler. $75.00/hour for labor and they charge half hours. They have pre-set prices for brakes, coolant flush etc. I've been able to get appointments on the same day for stuff like brakes, coolant flush, inspection, plus in the same building as the service bays there's a big retail automotive merchandise store for do-it-yourself. For my nine year old, high-mileage, Ford & Chevy, it's my type of place. The people who work there know what's up and have a good atitude. :)

My all-purpose cure for the check engine light is to cover it with a small piece of black tape, e$pecially if it's a catylitic converter problem.:D

problemo
 

I have a simple solution for you perhaps. I have had the same problem with check engine light, Simply disconnect your positive terminal for a couple seconds, and put it back (ten seconds should do it) it resets the computer. Sometimes it is just a milage thing that makes it go off. Save you some big bucks if that is the problemo

If JAB's suggestion doesn't solve the problem, and you don't have a million miles on it, i would recommend Cantin Chevy on Union Ave in Laconia.
The problem could be under warranty, and they would handle any recalls that may be pending.

Good luck!

Thanks for the feedback folks. When I get the truck unburied tonight, I'll try the positive terminal deal. The truck's not ancient (2003 w/ ~60K miles) but unfortunately not under warranty. I was looking to avoid delaership prices, but we'll see... Thanks again.

I wonder if the dealers labor rate is more than $75/hour.If it's the same I would definately go to the dealer first.

Hey, probably everyone already has an old roll of black tape, so that works best.

Until it's time to pass the state inspection!

I have a '97 Ford f150 with 205k miles and the warning light is on and Meredith Ford says it needs a new catylitic for one thousand dollars so's it will pass inspection. About two years ago, someone used NGK and not Motorcraft sparkplugs and they messed up the catyliic.

Is there some way to temporarily fool the idiot light so's I can go pass inspection at an easier inspection shop? Please someone, have an answer!:D

Loose gas cap?
 

One of the most common problems that causes a check engine light to come on is simply a loose or missing gas cap.

If you want to save yourself a ton of money simply disconnect the battery lead as John has suggested, which will clear the code (it will still be retained in system memory). Make sure your gas cap is on tight and if the light does not reappear you have fixed the issue yourself. Remember to tell the inspection station what you did and hope that when they see the stored code theyt don't charge you for a full diagnostic check.

If there is a problem with the cat converter or other system, the light will quickly reappear and you will need to get it serviced. Outside of the loose gas cap issue, another common problem is one or more of the sensors or an egr failure. I know if you go to a local AUTOZONE they usually will decode the issue for free if you buy the repair part from them.

I will second FLL's comments about VIP Auto. The chain has a very good reputation and if you can get the problem diagnosed and are handy with tools at all, you can fix many of the problems yourself for a lot less than a dealer repair.

Finally, if the problem is related to emissions control you probably are still covered under waranty.

But back to the beginnig, first check should simply be the gas cap....

Skip

Thanks, Skip. Probably not the gas cap as the light was on before my last fill up and is still on now. Definitely will try the positive battery lead. If it still comes on, with this being my third Silverado, my guess would be oxygen sensors. I remember when a guy could easily replace those on his own. Now they're buried.

Heck, well I'm at it, I have a Honda ForemanS ATV (manual foot shift) that will go from first gear to fourth and back down to first again but won't go down in to neutral and reverse. Of course the thing doesn't start unless it's in neutral. :rolleye2:

Any ideas? Any local ATV repair guys or do I need to bring it to HK Powersports (who will probably be too busy to work on it for weeks)?

Hmmmmm, I guess that's all the broken down stuff in the barn that I can think of for now. :D

Mike's Quality Car Care
 

Mike's Quality Car Care in Laconia is a good place to go. They keep up with the technology and give their mechanics a standing offer to take any training they want to improve their skills.

They are located behind Valvoline near Friendlies.

I know (the very, very expensive and hard way) that Lakes Jeep, a dealer, charges $91/hour. I didn't even get a kiss.....

VIP has been good to me in the past. If your in a big pinch hilltopper pm me, my father in laws an ASSE certified mechanic who moonlights at home.

GT Performance Services, Meredith
 

Give them a try. They are right across from Aubuchons in Meredith. Ask for Todd.

GT Performance Service
322 Daniel Webster Hwy
Meredith, NH 03253
(603) 279-8639


WINNOCTURN

Are you sure?? NGK's shouldn't have done that. Sounds aweful strange.

Yes, that's what happened. Meredith Ford did not say as much but after replacing the NGK's w/ Motorcraft it ran much better. A differant local mechanic installed the NGK's. For maybe six months the check engine light came on & off intermitantly.I was able to sleaze by the Sept 06 inspection when the check engine light magically shut off, and I took it to a less inspection station. No such luck last Sept 07, check engine is on, & Meredith Ford says a thousand dollar catalytic if they can locate one. Truck is currantly OTR, off the road., and waiting for money, or something.:)

Perhaps a flaming napkin wedged behind the radio, provided its still insured?

And no, I have no idea what that would do......

Dont Blame the Brand
 

Having been in the engine business for the last 31 years I can tell you that NGK sparkplugs were not the issue. A plug or plugs may have been damaged from the installation causing a misfire in the engine. I have and still use NGK's in alot of the engines I build and will take them over the other brands out there. As far as the convertor becoming plugged by using the wrong brand plug, Still trying to come to terms with that diagnosis. LOL :laugh:

You know, the motorcrafts were about 1/2" longer than the ngk's so that must mean something as it's safe to assume they should have been basically identical.........right?

The first mechanic told me that by putting ngk's into a Ford pushrod V6 200hp F150, it would definately make it run just like a Tundra double overhead cam!

And its only got 205k miles......Fords last forever!

Anyway, it starts right up and runs real good. Am looking forward to a hot & humid summer as the ac works good! Just can't drive it anywhere without being registered.

Hey, you know you're almost a native NH-ite when you got an old Ford pickup settl'n into your dirt driveway for years and years and years. Plus, it helps by keeping the neighborhood property values a little lower.:cool:

Too Cool Man
 

My guess is that if the wrong temp (not brand) spark plugs were used along with a otherwise poorly tuned engine, you could dump unburned fuel down the pipe. That's death to a cat.

Same Here
 

Recently had to replace the temp. sensor on our 2004 Jeep. (It was telling us the outside temp. was 86 degrees last month :confused:) )

Part $ 42.04 labor 1.0 hr $91.00

It was slow cranking.. sooo..

battery $139.58
Throttle position sensor Part $52.69 labor 2.0 hr $182.00 :eek::eek:

What really amazes me is the that they must have built in sensors that know when your last car payment was made. :emb:

We didn't get a kiss either.. :rolleye1:

Must be different sensors for different years, my wives 2002 only goes off when I say "Hey, lets go to Maine for the weekend!". :D

Well I am not so sure
 

Back when we had a fleet of VW bugs (65, 67 and a 68)they would run much better with BOSCH plugs. They where hard to reach when we changed them. It would have help'd if there were an extra joint between the elbow and wrist.

Now for all the Shade Tree Mechanics.. I invested in an OBDII code reader so I know what is wrong. Came in handy this week when the old trunk developed a bad miss. The code turned out to be multiple misfire. One cap and rotor later she runs like a watch.

What kind of elephant ...
 

What, was the old girl sticking her trunk into her eye instead of her mouth ?

While still trying to figure out how an elephant might have a misfire (let alone multiple ones), let me wonder aloud about where the cap and rotor go ?!? I suspect if you put them in certain places you might get the old girl to run like a gazelle !!! :devil::laugh:


(sorry, couldn't resist)

Typo
 

I suspect if you put them in certain places you might get the old girl to run like a gazelle !!! :eek:
It depends on the coil output!!

I work on trunks (telephone trunks that is) all day so I naturally type trunk when it should be truck.

FLL, and everyone else. this company:

http://www.discountconverter.com/

is a great help to fix up old cars that need a new catcon. i have a beater 2001 PT Crusher that i use for commuting with 125K on it. was getting intermittent firing due to a failing coil and fried the catcon. this outfit had a directfit replacement for $170 and I paid my town garage $80 (1 hour) to install it. On the road again for $250.

FOr your 97 F150, FLL, they list replacement cats for $200-$250 depending on what engine you have. No way do you have to spend $1K to get your truck on the road again. Hope this helps

Do these discount cats have visible sawz-all marks on them? :laugh:

Put it in third gear and push it forward a little to turn the engine over. These kinds of transmissions have shift dogs that can prevent gear engagement if they are lined up exactly the wrong way. By bumping the engine over just a little, you will change the dog alignment and if that was your problem, it should go itno gear. Next time, shut it off only in neutral

Failing that, try lubricating the external pivot point on the shifter mechanism, if there is one. The ytransmission relies on springs to return the shift mechanism back to it's normal state after you move it. If the mechanism needs lube, it can overwhlm the springs and prevent the mechanisms from moving properly.

This may sound weird, but an oil change may fix it too. The engine and transmission share the same oil and the transmissions are very touchy about viscosity and at the same time, they break down viscosity much faster than an engine would alone due to intense shear action in the gears under load.

Otherwise, I'm guessing something's broken or bent internally. That can get spendy.

Hi TomC - just read your post and thats good to know - thanks for that, as the truck is otherwise in very good shape, except being buried in the snow. Should not be hard to find a shop to install the part. My truck will run again! Been off the road since Sept.:)

Auto Haus
 

Just past The Mug on the left heading north out of Meredith on RT3 in Center Harbor. We've used him on several occasions and have no complaints. 279-7100