Extreme Corrosion or Bolt Sauce?!
Ok, weird question, but I can't find an answer anywhere on the Google: a couple years ago, I decided I had a parasitic draw on my lawn tractor when every time I would try to start it, the battery would be dead. Since then, I've used a wingnut and bolt to connect the positive and disconnect the battery each time I'm done using the tractor.
The weird part/question: the last two times I've gone back to use the tractor, the bolt and wingnut have been thickly coated in a pale gray sauce/foam/ick. I cleaned and wire brushed them off last time, but today--after about two weeks--they were coated again. Thoughts?! Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
Just guessing, but perhaps the bolt and nut are dissimilar metals and the ambient moisture serves as an electrolyte. Also possible battery acid is wicking up between the post and case.
|
Take the battery out, buy a new tractor and put the old battery in the new tractor. If it does the same thing, its the old battery. If it doesnt do the same thing its the old tractor.
|
Quote:
Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
Do you use anything like this to prevent outgassing from the battery corroding those parts ?
|
Quote:
Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
Quote:
Now, on my golf carts, I just had to clean most of the terminals with baking soda... Would these have prevented that? Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
Quote:
Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
Pictures may help
Pictures might help. Post a picture or two and maybe we can all see what you are calling "sauce". One man's sauce may be another man's goop.:rolleye2:
Just a thought Dave |
Quote:
Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
Scrub that yucky goopy white stuff off the battery stud with a wire brush, and smear $3.89 dielectric grease, Walmart, on the stud, covering the metal ...... problemo solved ..... that will be 85-dollars, thanks!
And, while you are at the Gilford Walmart, suggest you try a $1.36 brown paper bag of hot baked potato wedges ..... in the food display close to the checkout scanners. |
Quote:
I've been a Heavy Truck and Equipment mechanic most of my life, huge fleets, Construction and Sand & Gravel Companies, and such. I always use Never-Seize, and or Anti- Seize on batteries and some electrical connections after cleaning corrosion off. It conducts electricity so do the posts and cable connectors and hardware. Doing this will lube the nuts and bolts and save the batteries and future headaches as well. Any good auto parts stores will carry it in stock. And will keep any hardware from turning colors on you Terry |
I'm in the Automotive industry and I always use a can of coke to clean the terminals and then coat them with a clean spray grease. The stuff I use is called Endura by Castle.
But with the draw and disconnecting the battery all the time that can be messy. You need to fix the draw, leave a trickle charger on it all the time, or put a battery cut off switch on it. I leave a trickle charger on mine all the time as it can sit for a month at a time without being used. |
Agreed
Agree with what Biggd said...
Dan |
Quote:
Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
Grease—Not the Movie...
Quote:
As for corrosion: conventional lead-acid batteries continually "out-gas". The out-gassing condenses on top of the battery, such that an indicator (such as the placement of a penny) will show corrosion overnight! Clean the battery top with baking soda, and keep the battery caps depressed. As for the terminals: I've had excellent luck using ordinary "axle" grease; it's messy, but smeared over every metal part of the battery posts, exposed cable ends and clamps/connectors, the grease keeps those parts in such good shape, I've had to replace them only after they've run out of adjustment (after routine exchanges of batteries). One would think grease would act like an insulator, but the clamps always make long-lasting connections. (And you may have to grease these parts only once during your entire ownership of the boat or auto). Those red and green rings won't hurt, but they'll get greasy, so their effectiveness may diminish. |
Quote:
To test the outgassing suggestion, I've placed the bolt/nut set on my wood workbench rather than the top of the battery. Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app |
If the gooey substance crawls over to your bench, leave the house ASAP and call an exterminator. Something wants to mate with your nuts! :D
|
I had a Walmart tractor battery that often, but not always, would not turn over the engine. I too noticed lots of crud on the positive terminal. I found that if the engine was positioned at or just ahead of the power stroke, it wouldn't turn over. If I turned the flywheel maybe 1\2 turn counterclockwise with the palm of my hand it would start every time. I had to clean the terminal often to keep it working. When cleaning the connection, I noticed wetness at the base of the terminal post where it exits the battery case. My guess is that the battery had internal damage and the terminal became resistive, limiting the current.
I got a few more years out of this batter before it gave up. |
Can You Spare a Penny?
Quote:
While the wood work bench may be handy, it would be more scientific to clean the bolt, and place the bolt on a neutral surface, such as a plastic bag. |
Also dependind on design,
of battery hold down, if it has an upper case hold down frame, the acid buildup can cause a drain to ground. thinkxingu, Please take a picture.
Terry |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:14 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.