Washing machine shutoff valves
 

Alright, gentlemen, now that we've got a watertight roof, the oil company canceled the second bill for the smoke smell, and the car has new ignition coils, let's fix the washing machine shutoff valve. It's leaking around the handle in the ON position. It's a Watts-type valve like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-...175C/205893456

I think I need to replace the O rings? I've looked for valve repair kit at the Home Depot website and I can't find it. On YouTube I found the diagram below, but I can't find this kit. Can anyone identify the kit at Lowes or Home Depot? Thank you very much!

Maybe try:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-08...SABEgJLUfD_BwE

or, of that does not work, buy a new valve and scavenge the o-rings out of it.

Good find, Randalnh. Thank you.

There's a great video here on rebuilding the valve using the repair kit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1lvvHjG4EI

At the end of the video, a note says that rebuilding the valve is time consuming and you're better off buying a new valve! I'm sure that applies to me, with zero plumbing skills. I have replaced the O rings inside the hoses before but I didn't go beyond that. Apparently when the valve is leaking in the ON position you have to disassemble the whole thing and replace the O rings and teflon disks.

Repair kit: $23. New valve: $35. I'll get a new valve.

www.watts.com who made your washing machine shut-off valve is located nearby at 583 South Main St, Franklin NH 03235.

If you took it back to them, they probably just give you a new one!

Heh heh. I find that those valves only last a few years. This will be the third time I'm replacing it. I find I replace leaky and corroded faucets a lot too.

That's what happens when your employee only gets the New Hampshire minimum wage of $7.25/hr. You get a Watts Valve that leaks! ..... :eek:

Check your water.
It may have a high pH.

I had a valve that was similar or maybe the same one.

I bought a new valve and used it to change out the guts from the old one.

There was no need to sweat in a new valve body.

I’ve done exactly that a few times on different plumbing projects. Like bathtub valves. Body is fine.

Often you can find the whole valve cheaper on Amazon or EBay than buying the parts.

You're right: here's one for $23 https://www.amazon.com/HYDRO-MASTER-...s%2C152&sr=8-3

Does that look OK?

I'm confused. Why would you take out the O rings rather than just installing the new valve? Installing a new valve looks a lot easier than rebuilding the whole valve.

Because some people are safer with a wrench than a blow torch.
Sometimes they are built into a wall and might not be so easy.

You should disassemble the new valve to install it anyways or you will damage the o-rings. You know that, right?

If you are replacing the whole thing, that might be fine.

Keep in mind there are sweat type, threaded type and combo type.

If you are using it for the guts, make sure it’s the EXACT same one.

Getting the old off might be breeze or a pain in the ass.
Like it might be easiest to cut it out and mount it an inch higher (or lower).

If you have to blow torch it off, have fun.

Washing machine valves
 

I recently fixed this same problem by buying two shark valves. Cut off the old style valve and installed the new ones. No soldering, no dripping, so far so good.

Have never replaced nor repaired any valve in the house. Possible something is in the water that a water conditioner may solve. This is not a water softener but a water conditioner. Magnetic conditioners are available which are easily installed. Caution, wear gloves. There are also some which connect to an outlet

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I am a retired workaholic and continuing aquaholic

HAHA! There's no blowtorch involved. I've actually done this before. An experienced person can do it in 5 minutes. What's this about dismantling it to avoid damaging the O rings?? You just unscrew the valve, slide it off, and slide on the new one, no?

Update
 

I finally replaced the shutoff valve on the washing machine. However, in so doing I broke the (ancient) connector on one of the hoses. Since the pipes to the washing machine don't have separate shutoffs, I capped off the ends of the Watts shutoff valve so I could turn the house water back on. I bought two new hoses. Should I be able to install these myself? Any problems I need to foresee? Yes, I know you have to get the hot and cold water right.

Are these just standard threaded braided hoses? If so, screw 'em on and get to washin'!

The only thing you might want to do is throw a little Teflon tape on there first.

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They're rubber, not braided hoses, with threaded connectors. I'm a bit concerned about pulling the washing machine out.

Also still wondering about Mslogo's comment above, "You should disassemble the new valve to install it anyways or you will damage the o-rings."

He meant if the connections had to be soldered.
The heat would risk damage to the o-rings.

Any water hose with the standard garden hose, screw on connection will seal up a lot better with a small dab of Vaseline on the threads.

'Just a little dab will do it.'

Really?? I never heard that before. I did see a video by Maytag that said you shouldn't put plumber's tape, plumber's putty, or anything else on the connector.

You are correct—I was thinking of the valve you referred to. Good catch!

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All these Maytag no-go's are sealant adhesives while ordinary Vaseline white petroleum jelly is a waterproof lubricant so it helps to make a non-permanent seal within the garden hose threads, and it remains within the threads for a long time, like for weeks and maybe a couple months or more.

Vaseline as lubricant
 

Vaseline is non-toxic, and what minute bit might be touched by water won't bother the water at all. I use Vaseline to lubricate the large threads on the water filter cartridge holders. Works like a charm.

Two months? Then what? It leaks?

A garden hose thread is almost the same as a 3/4" pipe thread but is designed to seal tight without any thread sealer with the hose washer. Using Vaseline improves the seal by making the two parts slide together, better. Hose fittings are usually brass or black plastic and it works good with both because it's a grease lube that doesn't dissolve too much by water.

For $2.50 you can get a large jar in the baby section at Family Dollar.

Boats lifts and jet ski lifts love Vaseline petroleum jelly. Rub it onto the stainless cable, and any hard black vinyl boat lift parts that catch a lot of sunshine ..... and it will be a HAPPY boat lift!

Dollar Tree has same product for $1.25.

Ta daa! I got the hoses connected and I'm gettin' to washin'.

Lessons I learned: If the shutoff valve is leaking, the hose connectors are very likely old as well. Change the valve and hoses at the same time to avoid a leak when you break the hose connector and two trips to Home Depot. Also, the connector on the hose is supposed to turn freely. If it's fused to the part that is crimped onto the hose from corrosion, don't use pliers to force the connector to turn or it will break clear off.

FFL, I didn't use vaseline but I googled that and it turns out that there are a lot of household uses for it that I was unaware of. I've been fighting with leaking garden hoses for decades. I'll use some vaseline next time I connect the hose, instead of using pliers and denting the connector.

Thank you to everyone who helped me with the valve and hoses.