Car won't start
 

Remote won't open doors, won't start car. Spare remote also doesn't work. No click when key turns in ignition. No lights or other sign of life. Everything seems dead. Any idea what the trouble could be? This is keyed, not keyless ignition. Thank you!

Sounds like you need a brand new battery.

Better yet, you better hope it's a battery because that's a cheap fix!

I just put the charger on the battery for 30 minutes. The engine turned over a bit so it looks like the key is fine.

The charger read about 10 volts when I first hooked it up. Seems like it should have started with 10 volts??

What output is the charger? If it's a 10 amp charger, and the battery is dead, it will slowly ramp up to 10 amps and stay there until the battery is getting close to charged. But a 10 amp charger isn't a car starter, not nearly enough power to start a car, it's meant to charge the battery. So no, the 10 amp charger output isn't enough to start any car.

The question is why was the battery dead? When was the last time the car was run? Was something left on that would drain the battery (harder to do in newer cars).

It's a 10 amp charger. Last time I drove was to Hampton and back on Friday with no problems. The interior lights shut off automatically if they're left on.

Used car was purchased two years ago with 68,000 miles, now has 85,000. The battery was not new when I bought the car, so it could be 3 or more years old.

A 10-amp battery charger may not have enough power to start the car when hooked up at first, but let it charge for 30-60 minutes and the battery powers up to 12.5 volts or so, enough to make it start.

For cars with a manual transmission, let the car be pushed or rolled down a convenient slight downhill slope, and slowly let the clutch out in second gear, with the ignition in the run position, and it will make the engine turn over and start it up, just like magic!

Sorry, doesn't do it with an automatic transmission ....... too bad!

Sorry, my error---I meant to say that when I first put the charger on the battery, the needle read "10 volts." My understanding is that a car should start on 10 volts, before the charger light turns green at full charge, and that was my experience with my previous car.

It's charging for two hours and it still reads 10 volts.

I'm looking for a new battery online. Not coming up with much other than DuraLast at AutoZone.

Will AutoZone install the battery if I can get the car to them? (Years ago the Franklin AutoZone made house calls, but they don't do that anymore.)

. . . assuming that the problem is actually the battery and not the alternator.

A battery reading anything less than 12 volts is either completely dead or has a bad cell. Don't use voltage as an indicator of whether a battery will start a car or not.

I'd strongly recommend buying a new battery. It is the most likely problem and if you replace the battery and find you have further problems, probably with the alternator, then you still have a fresh new battery and won't have to think about that component for years.

I believe Autozone will help with battery install, if fairly straightforward. 95% of cars are extremely easy, but a few brands/models put batteries in ridiculous places.

I hope it works out for you.

BTW...

Some cars with fobs have an entry key hidden within the fob.

That helps you get access to the inside hood release to change a dead battery.

Yes, I totally agree with this having experienced it many, many years ago.

I had a 1956 Lincoln Premiere, and believe it or not the battery was located behind the foot area where the front seat passenger placed their feet. Imagine how difficult it was when I needed to use a trickle charger or get a jump....

Though I will say it was a 12 volt system. Up until about then many vehicles used a 6 volt battery.

Sounds like the battery
 

Any battery fully charged should show 12+ volts, almost 13 volts. After a full charge, it should not be 10 volts, the battery is dead. You can check the fluid level if the fluids are below the plates it's bad.

Check the owner's manual for the correct size and amperage of the battery. The car is used so it may not have the correct battery. Also, check the manual and see if there is an auxiliary battery for electronics. Brand new cars have them.

Once the battery is replaced or checked out to be good. Have your mechanic check out the charging system. It may or may not be charging properly. I've seen bad charging that does not trip a CEL.

Good luck!

Thanks to all for your input. Much appreciated!

Aaa
 

AAA will come to you and install a new battery if you are a member

Dead battery, 10volts is not enough potential for a newer car. I would disconnect the battery, leave it on the charger for a day, disconnect it for an hour, then check the voltage. If it is below 12.5V at that point, I'd just get a new one. In fact, personally, since you don't know how old it is, I'd just go get a new one. Bring the old one with you, the car parts store will take it.

Hopefully it's just an old battery issue, if not you'll know pretty quickly.

Update: I left the battery on the charger for 3 hours last night and was able to start the car last night and this morning. I guess I should go to AutoZone and ask them to test it and probably replace the battery.

Any thoughts on the Duralast Gold, $180?
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...cca/832330_0_0

I've used a lot of Duralast Gold's over the years, with good results. But, for me the prices have gotten out of hand on them. I'd suggest going to Walmart and looking at Everstart Maxx batteries, I don't know what car you have or what battery you are looking for but I bet you get something equivalent to the Duralast for $130 or so.

Literally the only things I buy at Walmart are car/boat batteries and motor oil.

I agree with the above but want to add fishing lures, paper goods, vitamins, dog food, dog treats, soap, toiletries... :D

...waterproofing spray, freeze-dried meals, windshield washer fluid, snack cakes, clothing, baby wipes...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Best bet it to trade the car for a newer used car with a manual 5-speed, and always be sure to park it on a slight hill so's you can start as I mentioned above when the battery goes dead by rolling downhill and letting the clutch out slowly in second gear!

That's probably not going to work in a newer car with a dead battery. No power for the control computers, no spark or fuel to run the engine.

Sir, you always crack me up. I haven't yet figured out if you have bats in your belfry, but I have fun trying to decipher you.

Update: Got the battery tested at AutoZone. It was fine and charged to 79%, which I expected as it was only on the charger for 3 hours. The alternator passed too. The date on the (Walmart) battery was Feb 2019, so 2 yrs 8 mos. I decided to replace it for peace of mind and got the Duralast Gold for the convenience of having AutoZone install it.

Obviously something was drawing power from the battery. At least if it happens again I'll know it's not the battery.

Two things I recommend people carry in their vehicle emergency kit: a battery charger with power cord, and a bicycle floor pump. Those two items have saved me many a time. Few people know that you can inflate a car tire with a bicycle pump.

FLL, in fact I'm in the market for a Kia Soul, blue or red, around 2018. Very hard to find.

Evertstart from Walmart are made by Johnston controls, which make many other brand batteries. They are rated high even by Project Farm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7rT...el=ProjectFarm

I think you did the right thing replacing it. Autozone testing is not the best, they don't do a full load test (at least I haven't seen it in the past) so might not be the real situation. In terms of what the draw was, has to be significant to pull a fully charged battery down overnight. Hoping it was "just one of those things" and you don't experience it again!

I would have considered that but the Walmart website didn't come up with any batteries for my car. Benson's has a Delco that they rate as "best" (as in good, better, best) for $175 installed, with a 42-month warranty. They would have had to order it so I got the Duralast. I no longer trust Walmart in Tilton after some incidents (multiple lost hubcaps, poor balancing, inspection sticker stolen out of my car, dented my rocker panel and didn't report it).

Yeah, those days are gone.

Also was told you can really mess up some cars by doing that. Something about unburned fuel getting where it shouldn't if I recall (catalytic converter ?). It might have applied to fuel injected, maybe with a mild turbo, can't remember. But their was a very firm warning to not roll start it.

Ugh, I had to google it now. I was right :)

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...ytic-converter