Window glass replacement
 

Is there someone in our area who replaces the glass of double-pane windows?

Have always used Granite State Glass. Pemi Glass in Meredith is also good


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I called a couple of places including Pemi Glass and they said all companies have a wait time of about 4 to 6 weeks for the glass + 2 weeks for someone to come and take the measurements = 7 to 8 weeks (October)

So I need a temporary solution while waiting for the glass. My idea is to remove the window and replace it with plexiglass or similar. Sound OK?

Window glass replacement
 

Can you template with cardboard and have them cut a piece of plexiglass for you. Then flex seal it in place until the repair?


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I should be able to cut it myself by scoring and breaking it.
https://www.google.com/search?client...k5NoPyvCasAk22

Any suggestions for sealing it in place?

It looks like it's also possible (though probably fairly difficult for the likes of me) to remove the outside pane and wash it. Some have reinstalled it but I doubt I could figure that out.

Can you photo the window in question?


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I would leave the existing glass in place until the glass company comes out and have them rig something up until the replacement glass comes in.

I am a big fan of Granite State Glass. They are one of the very few companies I have had nothing but positive experiences with and they stand behind their work.

If you know the window manufacturer there will be a bar code on the window casing and you can order a complete sash from the manufacturer.

I'm starting to show signs of the health impacts of the mold. I don't want it to migrate downstairs, so I think the window has to come out.

Yes, I will do that, and then maybe you can tell me how to get the window out of the track. It's a 1929 house, wooden window frame with two dowels on the top and bottom of the fame that slide in a groove.

4 to 6 weeks for the glass means that its is a factory sealed double pane.
It gets replaced as a sealed unit.

An acrylic short term replacement can be sealed in using silicone caulking and some mechanical fastening (small brads) so the caulking can cure.

If the sash tilts, generally it is just lifted out of the shoe *small sprung piece on each side of the sash hidden partially in the frame*
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...g5NoP4cui6AM52

Lift the sash an inch before tilting, then depending on the manufacturer, series, and year... it has different tilt mechanism... tilt the window. Then remove from the shoes like the above video.

If it is not a tilt window then generally the stops will need to be removed. A little more technical, so lets hope it is a tilt sash.

Be careful, the sash will be a lot more heavy than you imagine when it is unsprung weight.

Having restored a 100 year old home. Including windows.
I have also had custom sashes made.

Just put a piece of plexiglass in it's place OR a piece of plywood.

If your window is double pain, it is not original to house.

If you don't know name or manufacturer or they are out of business. Then you will probably need a new section made. Or just buy a complete new window depending on cost and appearance.

It's a horizontal sliding window. There are grooves in the top and bottom of the casing and dowels in the window frame that slide in the grooves.

How about a piece of transparent plastic tape over the crack?

If it is modern, there should be a mechanism to release the dowels so the sash can be removed.

Manufacturer would help determine what the actual mechanism is.

You're right! The window is an addition that was built some time later.

Photo of the window
 

As I said above, the window has dowels on the top and bottom that slide in a track. I can't see how to remove the window. The dowels seem to prevent the window from being lifted out of the track. Has anyone seen this type of window before?

That wouldn't solve the mold problem. I need to get the window out of the living space.

It looks like there are screws keeping the sill in place. Removing them may let you slide the sill out and tilt the window towards you so it can be removed?


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Releases would usually be at the top.
But if you intend to replace the unit... then you could plastic over the entire unit like they do for heat loss in the winter.
That seal should be tight enough so that it would trap the mold spores.

But you probably have more mold in the room, and would need to occasionally replace the plastic and tape.

Once a mold spore gets some condensation, it starts to grow... if it can't get the cellulose food that it needs, it will turn black and go inactive waiting for better conditions.
But rolling up the plastic, replacing it, and throwing the old one away would work.

That window looks just like two of those in our cottage, and they are quite old. I think they are Andersons. Anyway, IIRC, with one side opened onto the inner track, you lift the window frame upward and pull the bottom edge inward toward you. Be careful, as they have some weight. The other side would come out the same way, once moved toward the center a bit to free it from the side. If you wish, I could verify this, but I won't have a chance to do so until Wednesday.

Andersen Primed Wood Glider? Possible.

https://helpcenter.andersenwindows.c...ment-1940-1971

My God, you're a genius. How on earth did you find that?? THANK YOU!!! I'll try what's shown in the photo.

Dick, I believe John found the solution.

My company sells Andersen.
Once DickR suggested it to be an older Andersen, I just used the online library.

It is part of their customer service tools.

So, I'm able to get one side of the window out, but the other side won't come out. It appears that the window isn't quite square in the frame. The space between the top of the window and the frame above it is slightly smaller on the stuck side, hence the dowel won't clear the track on the bottom. My idea is to use a chisel or a fine dovetail saw to cut about 1/8" off the top of the window on the stuck side so the window can be lifted up to clear the sill. Could be hard because I wouldn't be able to cut past the dowel, which it turns out is metal. I could also try to lift the bottom corner with a crowbar.

The plastic sill can't be removed without removing the windows; it's held in by the dowels in both windows. I tested another window and it came out easily. Maybe the humidity has swollen the frame and casing of the stuck window.

One way or another, the window has to come out so the panes can be replaced.

Did you try sliding it to the opposite side?

I know the direction may not be clear on this...
But it may be that the frame/sash combination is designed in a manner to prevent the sash from coming out until it is moved completely to the opposite side of where it normally sits.

That ''wedging'' technique would keep the sashes tight when the window is closed and both sashes are in their closed position.

Problem solved
 

I used a small saw and a chisel to cut a little notch in the sill, 3/8" wide and 1/4" deep. That was enough to allow the pin to clear the track at the bottom. It took all of 5 minutes. The sill is made of a wood-like material that was easily shaped. The window is now outside and I rewashed the window frame with vinegar as per someone's advice here. Thanks to all for your help!