View Full Version : Well drilling cost
DickR
02-19-2009, 09:54 AM
Does anyone have recent well drilling cost information for the lakes region? Any contractors to recommend or avoid? I've done a search in the forum, but I don't see anything recent and no cost info. Of course cost will vary with depth, but in addition to certain minimum charge for setup and fixed costs, there will be some incremental cost/foot. Any anecdotal information on total depth, what was provided, and cost would be helpful for budgeting purposes.
colt17
02-19-2009, 11:55 AM
We have used Skillings and Sons on our primary home in southern NH as well as a new well at our lake house last year. They are doing work all over the lakes area (I see there trucks almost every weekend when im up). The NH sales guy is Bill check out there website nice family run business A+
www.skillingandsons.com
jeffk
02-19-2009, 12:19 PM
I used J E Thomas & Son Artesian Well Co in Moultonborough in 1993. I was very pleased with them. Unfortunately, the well ended up very deep, not their fault. They worked with me every step of the way and gave me options to keep drilling or try another location.
Don't know current costs, sorry.
Try the following as Jeff and Dan have done about 7 friends of mine plus mine on 9/11 and are just super to do business with. Distance really isn't a big deal with them so do not let their location scare you away. http://www.taskerswell.com/old_articles.html You will not regret giving them a call. Regarding prices, no company can give you a cost. They will all be a ball park figure and most do not include all the necessary items needed to do the job until they start or have been to the property to view just what will be needed.:)
jmen24
02-19-2009, 04:42 PM
Dick
We have always done business with Wragg Brothers out of Vermont. Being a larger remodeling company we have used a few different vendors but Wragg takes the cake. They have serviced storage systems at a couple of mountain top houses we built and even two years out have not charged for the service (warranty items) which is nice cause that is the same period as our warranty, so we would have eaten the costs. As far as price the last well we did and this would be your worse case senario (most times) was an allowance of $4800.00 for the well, had an additional 105 feet at $9.00 per, additional 20 feet of casing at $13.00 per, and then had to hydrofrag at 405 feet to get from 3/4 GPM to 15 GPM at a cost of $1500.00 to total cost of $7505.00. Now this pricing is from 2005. We do not build many houses anymore, more fun to fix the old ones, but it will give you an idea of the high range of the ballpark. Do not let the distance of any well company bother you as there are not very many around.
If you want a clear indication of how the house building market is doing call a well company and ask if they are busy, if any one says no than lace up you boots cause it is gettin deep (2006):look:. Hope this helps.
texas chopper
02-20-2009, 06:19 AM
I used James Gray wells out of Guilford. They did a great job. It cost about $7000 back in Feb of 2005. That was for drilling to 375' and everything else but running the electric (220 20 amp) line to the tank. He did the outside pump wiring also. I got 3 quotes and he was also the least expensive. It has worked flawlessly since. Good luck.
rod
fatlazyless
02-20-2009, 07:22 AM
How's that Gilford Well? Lots of big orange trucks and their "tap the earth" job sign. Anyone use Gilford Well for put'n in a well? Understand they do wells, horiizontal drill'n, and lawn irrigation?
Check out the thread below that was done back in 05. It has some interesting things one should look at and consider before doing any work. :)
http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2452&highlight=wells
SAMIAM
02-20-2009, 11:43 AM
I would definately stay local .Lots of good companies in the lakes region.
If you want an idea of how far you have to go down.....check with several neighbors.Generally, water is found at the same depth in large areas as I found out since
I'm in an area (gulp) where water is found at around 1000'
fatlazyless
02-20-2009, 02:34 PM
As a side note, it's interesing that Meredith town water is drawn from Lake Waukewan, Laconia's from Lake Winnipesaukee, next to a boat gasoline station, Portland, Maine's water, from Lake Sebago, and Boston, MA, from the big Quabbin resevoir, 100 miles away. All seem to have excellent water, too, so I am happy getting my water out of Lake Winnipesaukee.
Water from a drilled artesian well can have problems like radon and arsenic, while a very small amount of two-stroke oil in your drinking water has been proven to keep you healthy, and much more resisitant to mosquitos and black flies............urpa-urpa-urpa:D!
Sunrise Point
02-21-2009, 02:42 PM
Hi,
I appreciate all of the info on well drilling. I am hoping to have some sort of permanent water supply installed at our camp this coming year. A friend of mine mentioned that we should look into alternatives to well drilling.
Does anyone have any info on drawing and purifying lake water? FLL, you mentioned that you are happy to get your water from Winnipesaukee. Do you have some sort of filtration system? Were you joking about 2 cycle oil?
Can either system (well or lake water) be used occasionally during the winter in an otherwise unheated camp? What are the logistics?
Thanks in advance...
Hi,
I appreciate all of the info on well drilling. I am hoping to have some sort of permanent water supply installed at our camp this coming year. A friend of mine mentioned that we should look into alternatives to well drilling.
Does anyone have any info on drawing and purifying lake water? FLL, you mentioned that you are happy to get your water from Winnipesaukee. Do you have some sort of filtration system? Were you joking about 2 cycle oil?
Can either system (well or lake water) be used occasionally during the winter in an otherwise unheated camp? What are the logistics?
Thanks in advance...
It sounds as if you have a lot of different questions regarding many types of ways of obtaining water for your summer home/camp. You can get many different answers on the forum all of which are good and have good intentions, but it will get your head spinning after awhile. It is my suggestion that you have a good sit down talk with a neighbor or anyone that you feel comfortable with and go over all the questions you have and the many more that will arise as you talk. I feel that is the best way for me to try and work out things that I really do not have the knowledge to just go and do it. Best of luck to ya. :)
fatlazyless
02-21-2009, 10:01 PM
No, I have no filter system and draw f.rom a depth of about six feet. For drinking and cooking I use municipal water that's been treated with chlorine and fluoride and carry it in a big blue carry jug.....just like a wannabe islander....except I use the lake water for brushing teeth etc, with no known illnesses so far. The two stroke oil was a joke.
In an unheated camp to be used in the winter, probably a 4" diameter, hand ice auger, and a large, Thirsty Mate hand bilge pump could be used along with a 5 gal bucket. It takes just two minutes to drill a 4" diameter hole through 12" of ice with a hand ice auger. Total cost $75. or less, and no worries about electricity or freeze-ups or gasoline engines.. Best to keep it simple.
Sunrise Point
02-22-2009, 03:58 PM
Thank you RLW and FLL. I have been carrying drinking water in summer and winter for the past three years and was beginning to feel that it was time to investigate well/alternative drinking water options. In the cold months, after the lake freezes, I can usually obtain enough water for washing, etc. by roof run-off and melting snow on the woodstove. However, when there is no snow or rain, it's a lot harder.
I tried using a cordless drill and transfer pump to draw water from the lake and this works very well if there is a hole to draw from. I found out the hard way that a long-shaft spade bit is not the way to drill a hole in the ice. There is no problem drilling, but as soon as the spade portion of the bit passes deeper into the ice, it immediately refreezes along the shaft. I haven't yet purchased an auger type bit, I keep hoping to find one at a yard sale. I will keep my eye out for a 4" ice auger too!
I do agree about keeping things simple, but having a permanent water supply would certainly make life easier....
Dave M
02-22-2009, 08:29 PM
We used Thomas Well for Water system. We had a unique system since it supplied two houses and had to be drained for the season. We have a valve shutoff that will drain lines from the well and house when turned. Its buried 4 foot down. We got a number of quotes and they were all within $1000 of each other. We chose Thomas because of the unique syatem and he had answers right off the top of his head. It cost us $2000 more than the quote but that was due to additional deep(531'). We didn't have much of a choice of moving. The well truck had all it could handle since it was under power lines.
On the water from the lake. My friend pumped from the lake during the season. In the winter he disconnects the pump and uses a sump pump and connects to the line to the house. Drains completely when all done using. When I went to a well I left my line to the lake. I was going to do the same thing and put a separate faucet at the camp. The camp is uphill from the lake, gets old fast hauling.
Dave M
"...In the winter he disconnects the pump and uses a sump pump and connects to the line to the house..."
My sump pump will only raise water to about nine feet elevation. What might I be doing wrong? :confused:
This year, I plan to prime my lakewater system by running a garden hose to the lake. The hose will be connected to a hose "bib" (faucet) I installed in the main waterline two feet below the lake's surface.
The "sump pump end" will be from a 6-gallon bucket of water on the front porch. Theoretically, this combination will force the bucket's six gallons of water into the 1" waterline at the lake level and prime the entire waterline up to the house pump: a "lift" of about 30 feet.
In previous years, the three-gallon filling process has taken two hours of constant babysitting. :rolleye1:
(Of course, the house pump will be open at the filling plug to reduce back pressure and to drain the excess). :look:
upnorth
02-23-2009, 08:25 AM
We used James Gray in 2008. Solid work. 500 foot well was about 6k, I think. Once the house was complete, though, we needed a water softener because lakes region drilled wells are notorious for hard water (tough to lather) and iron content (lot's of staining). Good luck.
"No, I have no filter system and draw f.rom a depth of about six feet"
No filter system at all? Is that safe? I realize you don't cook with it but still doesn't sound very clean.
DickR
02-23-2009, 05:29 PM
Acres per Second: a 30-foot lift, on the suction side of a pump?? Sea level atmospheric pressure will push a column of water up only 33 feet into a complete vacuum. From that you have to subtract what little pressure you get from the lake's 504 feet elevation, plus the vapor pressure of the water at the lake temperature (less than a foot's worth).
Perhaps I don't understand your current situation regarding the house pump: does it actually pull water from the lake up 30 feet? If so, that's some good pump, I'd say.
Pineedles
02-23-2009, 08:39 PM
It's probably a "Duro" pump pushing all those extra feet.:D
"...Perhaps I don't understand your current situation regarding the house pump: does it actually pull water from the lake up 30 feet? If so, that's some good pump, I'd say..."
1) I should have written that it's the sump pump that's 30 feet elevation above the lake.
The sump pump will be driving water downwards through the garden hose to drive a charge of water upwards to the house pump through the 1" water line—aided by gravity.
The house pump is located in the crawl space about six feet lower; still, it has to pull the water column from about 24 feet above the lake. That's why priming is the long process that I hope to shortcut this spring with the sump pump.
2) This Jacuzzi-branded ½-HP pump is our third: It appears to be of generic US manufacture. I liked the previous "micro" Gould pump, which gave instant and sustained peak pressure; unfortunately, it failed before its time.
At another lakefront location, I'm using a ½-HP Harbor Freight pump made in Italy. It has pressure switch issues, but is still OK after four years of use. Since the lift is only three feet there, priming is not the chore it is at Lake Winnipesaukee.
I looked into having a well dug ten years ago, and was quoted $8000 by a now-forgotten Laconia outfit. :eek: I looked at his new truck with its gold-leaf signage, and thought that maybe lake water wasn't so bad after all. :look:
3) Wells have their own set of issues (http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/showpost.php?p=86339&postcount=18), as FLL has brought out. MtBE (http://www.seacoastonline.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080105/NEWS/801050331&sfad=1) contamination from gasoline engine exhaust remains a problem in New Hampshire wells. An article (http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:Cmrjs7kDo7EJ:www.insinet.net/ajbas/2008/63-67.pdf+%22lake-water%22,+MtBE,+2008&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=9&gl=us) I just stumbled upon suggests that naturally-occurring bacteria may be making lakewater less contaminated by MtBE than well water today!
4) One of our more fastidious visitors filled water containers from a Town water supply. Later that year, the Town sent out fliers (http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:4Ok0uVxeg-4J:www.wolfeboro.net/forums/lake-winnipesaukee/22821-recyanobacteria-now-in-big-lake.html%3Fview%3Dthreaded+letter,+%22saying-not-to-drink-town-water%22,+site:wolfeboro.net&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&gl=us) with the water billings saying not to drink Town water! :confused:
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