Drive Bellows

[Formula260SS]

Hi all,

Thinking of replacing the bellows in my B3 outdrive, does anyone have an idea on cost for this job ? I am thinking Lakeport as you can tell by my name I have a Formula. I am also considering Shep's as they did a good job on a friends boat.

Any input on the subject is appriciated, been on the lake a few times in the pontoon boat, sure is nice to get back on the water again.

Thanks !

[Dave R]

Doing the same project myself right now. It's a lot of work for a DIYer so I suspect it won't be cheap. Replace the shift bellows and shift cable at the same time since the labor is the same and they tend to wear as well.

[robmac]

that is a good job for a pro,make sure to check the bearing as well. call Steve a sheps and get an estimate and then you can decide if it's something you want to tackle.I've seen people try only to find they need a tool they don't have(it's always more expensive if someone has already tried to perform the task) Good luck

[Dave R]

that is a good job for a pro,make sure to check the bearing as well. call Steve a sheps and get an estimate and then you can decide if it's something you want to tackle.I've seen people try only to find they need a tool they don't have(it's always more expensive if someone has already tried to perform the task) Good luck

Good points there. I had to buy $55 worth of special tools, and I have a fairly comprehensive tool collection.

[White Rook]

Hi all,

Thinking of replacing the bellows in my B3 outdrive, does anyone have an idea on cost for this job ? I am thinking Lakeport as you can tell by my name I have a Formula. I am also considering Shep's as they did a good job on a friends boat.

Any input on the subject is appriciated, been on the lake a few times in the pontoon boat, sure is nice to get back on the water again.

Thanks !


I'd suggest having Lakeport Landing perform the work. Along with the bellows, careful inspection of the gimbal bearing, gimbal housing, drive shafts, U-joints, etc is usually done. Also, checking and adjusting engine alignment with special tools is quite important. Ronnie at Lakeport is one of the most trustworthy individuals there. Good luck.

[NightWing]

I would certainly inspect and lubricate the drive coupling which is subject to wear and will eventually fail. Replacement requires engine removal. Quite a costly job.

[Formula260SS]

Thanks for the input, I have done all my own work for years on the boat but time is what I lack these days. I lube the Gimbal and Coulpler every year and the U-Joints every two, but it seems to me the bellows should be replaced within some timeline. I was hoping someone had an idea of the cost so I don't choke when I call for a price.

Thanks again

[TomC]

At a marina on the lake. Bill came to just under $600... This was for an Alpha I, Gen 2

[Blue Thunder]

260SS,
The Bravo III drive is big and HEAVY, not like the Alpha drives. It would take at least 2 guys to remove it once it was unbolted. Any marina will have the proper equipment to do the job. You might just want to bite the bullet and have it done. The sooner, the better, Memorial Day is coming!!

Blue Thunder

[Dave R]

260SS,
The Bravo III drive is big and HEAVY, not like the Alpha drives. It would take at least 2 guys to remove it once it was unbolted. Any marina will have the proper equipment to do the job. You might just want to bite the bullet and have it done. The sooner, the better, Memorial Day is coming!!

Blue Thunder

I made a simple wooden stand with wheels to put my B3 drive on. I use the trailer tongue jack to adjust the height of the boat to match the height of the drive. Works pretty slickly and I can remove and install the drive by myself. That said, 260SS never indicated the desire to personally do this work...

[Rinkerfam]

I have a 2004 Rinker Captiva with a 2005 Bravo 3 outdrive (replaced in late '05) I have no idea what the drive bellows are, but would like to be educated. What are they, and at what interval should they be replaced? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but this thread has gotten my attention.

[TomC]

I have no idea what the drive bellows are, but would like to be educated. What are they, and at what interval should they be replaced?

they are very inexpensive rubber boots (parts themselves only are ~$50-$90) that are the only thing keeping the lake outside your boat... the driveshaft, exhaust, and shift cable pass through them from the engine inside to the drive outside. they are articulated and flexible to let the drive move for steering and tilt. If they fail (wear out, rot, or tear) then the boat fills with water and sinks...:eek:

I replaced mine at 10 years, which probably wasn't too smart. 3-5 year replacement interval is much safer.

picture here: http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=809759%2096&ivar=images/CRUISER/809759.96/4.png&inbr=1942&bnbr=90&bdesc=BELL+HOUSING (items 11 and 17 in the top half of the view)

[Rinkerfam]

TomC,
Thanks for the explanation. I'll keep it in mind for when my boat hits the 5 year mark.

[Dave R]

TomC,
Thanks for the explanation. I'll keep it in mind for when my boat hits the 5 year mark.

Inspect them now, if you can. It'll give peace of mind, and may save you some seriosu dough. Just tilt the drive all the way up and have a look. They will be the only "big, black, rubber, accordian looking thing" and the "small, black, rubber, tapered accordian looking things" under there. Look for signs of dry rot cracks like you'd see on old tires. There may be a medium sized bellows on the exaust. It can fail with no ill effects. My boat is not equipped with one of these because of the engine I have.

My bellows are 7 years old, stiff, but not cracked, and I trailer my boat. I am replacing them now since I had to do some other work that involved similar disassembly so it was an obviously easy decision to make. I think another year would have been OK with them though. I hear they last longer if they are under water all the time too so you may be able to save a bit of money and just inspect them for a few years.