Downeast
09-08-2017, 09:03 PM
Hi, normally I remain fairly quiet, but I thought this bit of info regarding your boat's AC system and the integrity of it all.
Some points I want to pass along that may just save someones boat/life in the long run.
1)
It is important, if your boat is 10 years or more, to check the condition of the AC panel, behind the scenes that is. This goes for DC terminals too, breakers, buss bars shore plugs.
90% of the time, the older systems are at risk of potential for a fire. Over the years, the terminals on the back of the breakers begin to loosen due to vibration, expansion and contraction.
Short story loooooonnnng, this creates resistance because of the poor continuity created from loose terminals .
Resistance is heat.
Heat is no good.
Periodically check the shore plug ends for heat. Miles and miles of unplugging and plugging wear out the system.
Shore cords are serviceable.
2) EVERY shore-powered boat should have a galvanic isolator installed for your wallet's protection. BUT More important, DO NOT IGNORE A REVERSE POLARITY INDICATOR LIGHT OR the integrity of your green ground wire in the shore cord. 100% of the AC power that goes to your boat MUST also return back to the dock in full ONLY through the cord. 100% TO AND 100% BACK.
3) The DC terminals ALSO should be checked for tightness. When your systems see 11,12 volts, they run hot. Keep battery connections clean, all grounds, reds blacks whites and greens.
4) Your bilge pump: Does it's float switch still operate regardless of the battery switch? IT SHOULD." 24 hour power."
5) How many bilge pumps are fused too high? --->
MOST pumps state the required fuse rating on the top. 3 amps, 2.5 amps. etc .. most submersibles require small fuses. Reason being?
Most bilges have debris in them and the probability to injest that debris, and stop the pump, is high. Rotor lock occurs, the oversized fuse does not blow, and the pump will literally melt into a red ,white, blue little blob of Rule cream cheese.
Ask your service provider to check these things if you are unsure. Keep your boat safe.
-N
Some points I want to pass along that may just save someones boat/life in the long run.
1)
It is important, if your boat is 10 years or more, to check the condition of the AC panel, behind the scenes that is. This goes for DC terminals too, breakers, buss bars shore plugs.
90% of the time, the older systems are at risk of potential for a fire. Over the years, the terminals on the back of the breakers begin to loosen due to vibration, expansion and contraction.
Short story loooooonnnng, this creates resistance because of the poor continuity created from loose terminals .
Resistance is heat.
Heat is no good.
Periodically check the shore plug ends for heat. Miles and miles of unplugging and plugging wear out the system.
Shore cords are serviceable.
2) EVERY shore-powered boat should have a galvanic isolator installed for your wallet's protection. BUT More important, DO NOT IGNORE A REVERSE POLARITY INDICATOR LIGHT OR the integrity of your green ground wire in the shore cord. 100% of the AC power that goes to your boat MUST also return back to the dock in full ONLY through the cord. 100% TO AND 100% BACK.
3) The DC terminals ALSO should be checked for tightness. When your systems see 11,12 volts, they run hot. Keep battery connections clean, all grounds, reds blacks whites and greens.
4) Your bilge pump: Does it's float switch still operate regardless of the battery switch? IT SHOULD." 24 hour power."
5) How many bilge pumps are fused too high? --->
MOST pumps state the required fuse rating on the top. 3 amps, 2.5 amps. etc .. most submersibles require small fuses. Reason being?
Most bilges have debris in them and the probability to injest that debris, and stop the pump, is high. Rotor lock occurs, the oversized fuse does not blow, and the pump will literally melt into a red ,white, blue little blob of Rule cream cheese.
Ask your service provider to check these things if you are unsure. Keep your boat safe.
-N