Driveway Resurfacing Project

[Sunbeam lodge]

I plan to have my driveway resurfaced . I received this estimate from a reliable paving company but I dont know anything about paving or "super Mix" or depth and stone size. Anyone care to help me with comments on this estimate.
The estimate is about 2 years old and was based on the cost of paving when oil was $100 a barrel. So the price should be cheaper. But should the stone size and depth be OK?

[gokart-mozart]

Call Ben Doliver 834-3778 stat.

He will tell you the right info and give you the right price.

As far as "eco-materials" or any of that other crap, remember the winter is six months long, and your new driveway has to be there in the Spring.

Best of luck.

[ishoot308]

When you say resurface, are you simply paving over existing asphalt?? If so, any areas that have broken up or are badly cracked need to be completely cut out first or it will simply crack again. Also any areas where new asphalt butts old asphalt should have a super tack adhesive applied to ensure a proper bond.

The gravel beneath the cut out areas needs to be compacted. Then I would want two separate lifts of asphalt installed. The first lift should utilize a stronger 3/4" aggregate mix and should be 2" thick minimum when compacted. The second lift should have a smaller 3/8" aggregate mix for a smoother surface and less water infiltration and this lift should be at least 1" thick when compacted.

If your current driveway is fine and your simply resurfacing for whatever reason, I would use a 3/8" mix.

The term "superpave or supermix" is a way of the installer telling you he wants to do the job in one lift and supposedly the mix is a happy medium between a 3/4" agg mix and 3/8" agg mix. Don't fall for it, two separate lifts is the proper way to go when paving from gravel up.

Here's some good info for you... http://www.asphaltpavement.org/driveways

Good Luck!

Dan

[DesertDweller]

Dan is spot on. If you want it to last you want a base course and a surface course. Base course should be at least 2 inches and the surface course should be at least 1 inch (compacted).

[Slickcraft]

Town roads built in Alton, and many other towns, have a 2" "binder course" applied on the compacted gravel. This after sub base drainage and grade issues have been dealt with. This sits over one winter. The next year, after a satisfactory inspection, a 1" "finish course" is applied. As has been noted, if you want it to last then you have to do it right.

[SIKSUKR]

Agree with ishoots comments. However I had my old asphalt removed, regraded and compacted and then just used the course binder. Although I wanted a fine finish, something got lost in the job detail and I lived with it. Its been 7 years and the paving still looks the same as when it was finished.

[Dad sold the C * C]

Agree with ishoots comments. However I had my old asphalt removed, regraded and compacted and then just used the course binder. Although I wanted a fine finish, something got lost in the job detail and I lived with it. Its been 7 years and the paving still looks the same as when it was finished.

That happened to me with a "new" section of driveway... That was 20 years ago:rolleye1: It is starting to be a problem now, but I was surprised how long it has lasted. Due to sunken stumps and other issues in the original driveway the whole thing needs to be removed and redone, one of those things on "THE LIST":eek2: