Water Pressure Tank Issue

[rgilfert]

All season long I noticed that our lake water pump would kick on, in my opinion, way too often. It seemed that it would turn on after only minimal water usage (e.g. one or two toilet flushes). I'm concerned that the over usage of the pump (a $600 item) will cause it to fail prematurely. Obviously I'm focusing on the water pressure tank as the cause...but...even knowing that, I'm not sure of the correct resolution.

A word of background so that you can understand my set up: I have a 1/2 HP Jet Pump (J-Class RP2 Series) that sits under the cottage drawing water approximately 20' in elevation up from the lake (the approx distance from the lake to the pump is 60'). The pressure tank is a 19 Gal pre-charged unit (Simer VT20) with a switch that kicks on at 20 PSI and off at 40 PSI.

According to the specs, my pressure tank is supposed to have a 6.9 Gal useable draw-down.....so that would tell me that I should be able to flush the toilet 5 or 6 times before the pump kicks back on.

At first I suspected that the bladder in the tank had ruptured...but when I checked the pre-charge pressure in the tank it was correctly set to 18 PSI (i.e. 2 PSI less than the kick on pressure) so it probably isn't a bad bladder. With that said....then what could possibly be preventing me from getting the useable 6.9 Gal draw-down?? It baffles me.

If I replace the tank...then...what do I replace it with? Do I simply replace it with another 19 Gal tank and hope that it will magically fix the problem? Do I increase the capacity of the tank? Do I change the switch to a 30/50 PSI switch? I'd appreciate any input.

[Cobalt]

You may want to look at the backflow check valve in the intake.

My lake water pump would turn on for no reason and run for 5 or 10 seconds. The valve was not holding and water was draining causing the system to lose pressure and the pump turn on.

Good luck.

[rgilfert]

Cobalt, now that you say that.....I'm sure that is a part of the issue. I say this because if we'd come home to Bedford for a few days over the summer I'd always turn off the breaker to the pump (just in case a pipe/etc broke in the cottage). Typically when we'd return to the lake I'd notice that the water pressure gauge would read less pressure than when we had left (sometimes the pump would fire up as soon as I'd throw the breaker). The foot valve was new last summer and don't think it is the issue...but I suspect there could be an issue with the "quick disconnect" fitting down at the lake (i.e. so I just have to remove the section of pipe in the lake over the winter).

I do believe, however that this is just a portion of the problem because over a 5 day period that the pump was turned off the pressure would only drop 10+/- PSI).

[chocophile]

You might also check the pressure switch to see if it is really turning on/off at the pressures you want. I have to adjust ours every few years. If you have too small a difference between on/off, you'll have to adjust the differential screw.

In the fall, do you drain the small water tube that goes to the pressure switch?

Regarding the foot value, did you say it is in the water? I think you could also have one at the hose connection to the pump.

[ApS]

All season long I noticed that our lake water pump would kick on, in my opinion, way too often. It seemed that it would turn on after only minimal water usage (e.g. one or two toilet flushes).

I've got a similar setup, and "one-flush" will trip the pressure switch.

It's been this way with the identical and unchanged setup since 1993!

[jmen24]

One thing to keep in mind is that every time you flush you are removing water from the tank, that decreases the pressure. If your system is not holding the high end of the pressure, that is the issue. Above advice is a great starting point.

Typical tank air pressure ranges from 20 to 60 lbs in a cycle, depending on the tank and system. Pressure should be higher when it is full of water and the pump is off. You can recharge the system if it is low.

Remember, when checking the pressure in the tank, it needs to be completely empty of water.

I have the same setup, with a 30 gallon tank and it kicks on every 3rd flush or about 5 min into a shower. I do not have a pressure bleed issue. Will hold tight for days at a time.

Check that the pressure switch is actually triggering at the correct settings. Debris in the pressure line (small copper line running to switch) can cause pressure issues as well. Just know that if you remove an end, be ready to catch a solid stream of water!

[tis]

I seem to remember that happening to us and our foot valve had fallen over or off.

[fatlazyless]

......shallow well water-pump problems with pressure switches that turn on at 30-psi and turn off at 50-psi...you gotta be a water-pump detective to diagnose the correct issue...which can be very challenging...a neighbor once took about three days trying to find the problem and actually dug up the buried 1 1/4" diam poly-vinyl-butyl black tubing that snaked down into the lake, thinking that it had froze up and cracked somehow over the winter months.....which was not the case....only to find out that a chipmunk had been using the inside of the black poly-vinyl-butyl 125' x 1 1/4"diam long tube as a storage place for acorns....and that had plugged it up.....how's about that! ..... :confused:


....prices for water-pumps and accessories can vary by quite a bit from store to store.....I know that an almost easy-to-install, tether on-off switch, for a septic waste-water pump cost about 20-dollars at a local big box store, while a similar item went for almost 50-dollars at a nearby local hardware store, so it can pay to shop it around ... or just go directly to Lowe's ... which has a very liberal, 3-month return policy, except when that older thin woman with the white hair is at the returns counter ....

[LIforrelaxin]

I have a very similar set up, only my elevation change is only about 10 feet. And I do run 30/50 at the pressure switch.....

I average about 2 flushes per cycle...

My system was pretty tight this year, and consistently about 2 flushes was my limit before the pump would kick on....

If you don't want to cycle as often bigger tank is the resolution.... however you do need to make sure you aren't weeping water anywhere.....

[wifi]

With an aging system, I need to check the pressure in my captive air tank. Empty the system, then follow the directions to make sure it has the proper pressure. That is what corrects this problem in my system.

Sometimes, I just give an arbitrary shot or two of air, and that works.

[SIKSUKR]

I would still suspect the bladder in the tank if your pressure switch checks out. Monitor your pressure gauge on the tank with no usage and see if it drops. If it drops, try to eliminate each problem. If you have a valve on the suction(lake) side of the tank then shut it off and watch your gauge. If it dropped before you shut it and does not after then a faulty check or leaking supply pipe are the potential culprits.
Here's what I would do to to see if my bladder is toast. Have somebody flush a toilet while you watch your gauge. If it drops to the low start up and switches the pump on, you pretty much determined 2 things....Your switch works fine and your bladder is full of water.

[ITD]

I would still suspect the bladder in the tank if your pressure switch checks out. Monitor your pressure gauge on the tank with no usage and see if it drops. If it drops, try to eliminate each problem. If you have a valve on the suction(lake) side of the tank then shut it off and watch your gauge. If it dropped before you shut it and does not after then a faulty check or leaking supply pipe are the potential culprits.
Here's what I would do to to see if my bladder is toast. Have somebody flush a toilet while you watch your gauge. If it drops to the low start up and switches the pump on, you pretty much determined 2 things....Your switch works fine and your bladder is full of water.

This.......