No holes transducer mount...

[8gv]

My Sea Ray 182BR needs a stern mounted transducer. I have a puck style transducer which I epoxied into the hull. Due to the cored hull and my unwillingness to remove the inner layer and foam, it isn't so good. Actually it is accurate whenever I'm in 565' of water, which is never.

So now I wish to mount a transducer to my transom but want to avoid the need to rename her to HMS Swiss Cheese.

I propose the use of a piece of polypropolene, polyethelene or whatever material cutting boards are made of. I'll screw the transducer mounting screws into it. As a cutting board, this material is cheap. As "King Starboard" marine purpose material, it's pricey but I have some left over from another project.

The issue: How do I affix it to my transom?

I was thinking about using a good quality bedding caulk designed for use below the waterline. As an alternative I could use RTV silicone caulk. As a last resort (I'm committment adverse) epoxy could be used.

HAS ANYONE HERE DONE THIS?

I'll also have to get the cable through the transom but a proper fitting and copious bedding compound should resolve that.

[Belmont Resident]

You are making a very simple job into a project.
Pick up a tube of marine caulking, drill and fit all of your pieces where they go. Drill the recommended size hole for the wire to come through the transom, this is usually done in the same area as the outdrive so it blends in. Use the marine caulking to fill all of the space and seal the hole in the transom then apply a small amount into the screw holes and onto the screws before putting them in.
Wipe up any extra caulking and you are done.
Your boat will not look like Swiss cheese unless you make a mistake, this is the way any boat that does not have through hull parts is done.
The biggest thing you want to avoid is leaving an avenue for water to penetrate and freeze. This is solved buy using the caulking to seal all holes.

[CozbyDog]

For any underwater caulking I would use 'Life seal' caulk- it is a silicone with adhesive and it is easy to clean up which makes for a clean install. Forget the starboard, mount the transducer right to the hull, just measure 3 times and drill once...Route the wire straight up from the transducer and if your hull allows, drill the hole above the waterline as this will probably be the biggest hole and will go all the way through into the engine compartment.
Use a clamshell or similar thru-hull fitting and caulk it well where the wire enters. Good to go.

[8gv]

I hear you guys, but I just keep thinking of water seeping into my transom. I'll spend some time staring at my transom this winter. Maybe I'll summon the courage.:rolleye2:

[Jonas Pilot]

This is how I installed the transducer for my Lowrance® HDS-5.

[jrc]

If you want to try the adhesive method, you have to remember that it is very hard to adhere to those poly materials. They really can't be glued, you need to make a mechnical bond. So rough up the surface, the poly canoe material is actually flame treated to get some tooth.

I once used RTV to hold a big piece of poly board, left over from my house, to the smooth fiberglass in the bilge. I then screwed mounts for a spare anchor into the board, it held for years.

You need to make a good size piece, make it rough and I would use RTV or caulk. I think epoxy would be too rigid. Whats the worst that can happen, it falls off and you end up drilling. Just make sure you test the bond before you hit the water.

[trfour]

I would use this product 8gv. http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-marineweld/

Best of luck,
Terry
__________

[NoBozo]

Maybe give this a thought. NO Depth Sounder at all. In a boat doing say 30 MPH, by the time the "signal" from the transducer gets to the guage on the dash..which is very fast...AND you just happen to be looking at the guage at that same instant..You have ALREADY passed over that rock and whacked your outdrive. YUP :look:

I am the same way, when it comes to drilling holes in the hull..Particularly below the waterline. Just don't like to do it....even though the factory does it all the time.

As stated in a couple of posts above, NOTHING will adhere to that cutting board material for very long, if at all...except maybe silicone seal. (RTV) In fact, I'm going to take a guess that the cutting board material might just be Nylon or even Teflon. No Stick. NB

EDIT: How about substituting a block of 1/2 inch plywood (marine ply if possible) for the cutting board.. thouroughly sealed and painted on all sides and edges..THEN stuck on the transom with RTV. :look:

EDIT. Epoxy is TOO Permanent.

[8gv]

Maybe give this a thought. NO Depth Sounder at all. In a boat doing say 30 MPH, by the time the "signal" from the transducer gets to the guage on the dash..which is very fast...AND you just happen to be looking at the guage at that same instant..You have ALREADY passed over that rock and whacked your outdrive. YUP :look:

I am the same way, when it comes to drilling holes in the hull..Particularly below the waterline. Just don't like to do it....even though the factory does it all the time.

As stated in a couple of posts above, NOTHING will adhere to that cutting board material for very long, if at all...except maybe silicone seal. (RTV) In fact, I'm going to take a guess that the cutting board material might just be Nylon or even Teflon. No Stick. NB

EDIT: How about substituting a block of 1/2 inch plywood (marine ply if possible) for the cutting board.. thouroughly sealed and painted on all sides and edges..THEN stuck on the transom with RTV. :look:

EDIT. Epoxy is TOO Permanent.

I use the depth finder as a trend instrument. When the number gets lower, faster, I amp up the pucker.

So a piece of PT plywood would stick better? I've got some of that too.

[Jonas Pilot]

I've had plywood and polypro transducer mounting plates. If you use the correct adhesive you won't have any problems with leaks. By using a mounting plate you reduce the chance of damage to your transom if you were to run over something that hit the transducer. This is how I mounted the transducer for my Lowrance. Note the loop in the cable. This extra length could save your cable in the event of a strike on the transducer.

[NoBozo]

I use the depth finder as a trend instrument. When the number gets lower, faster, I amp up the pucker.

So a piece of PT plywood would stick better? I've got some of that too.

NO: NOT PT: (Pressure Treated). Marine plywood..It's usually mahogany plywood. Best....OR Solid mahogany...just as good.

Trend is important...YES. I've found that a depth sounder on Winni is more of a "curiousity" than useful. I have been boating in big salt water.... and Winni...less so .. back to 1968.

Back in the day...30+ years ago.. I sailed to Bermuda.....Solo and back in two different boats. Now I have a 20 foot runabout on Winni. I have a digital depth sounder epoxied inside the hull just foreward of the engine (350 IO) on centerline. No Core. It works "OK". Weeds standing up on the bottom will confuse the sounder. Aerated water will also confuse the sounder....like if you are following another boat in their wake...

You are on the right track. Think about it during the winter. "Pucker" just adds to the adventure. :D

[SAB1]

If you do some digging, you can find transducer mounts that mount thru your bilge drain hole. I have one on my 14ft alum boat. You attach the new plug system from the outside in and it has a bracket on it hold the ducer. I have had mine for years and somebody must still make them. But honestly a couple holes that can be easily filled in down the road are not going to hurt a thing.